Magnet

Many thanks for coming back on this Octavian. I really like your logic of changing one thing and testing, before changing anything else. This makes complete sense, but few seem to follow the logic. What brand of filter did you fit recently? Oil being suspect? I wouldn’t think so. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Oil pressure should always be checked when the oil up to operating temperature. That would be after at least a 10 mile run. Many believe the oil is up to operating temperature once the coolant gets up to normal, but that is not correct.

Hello Derek, I would say you need to have the ignition switched on when you do the voltage check. If this all proves to be serviceable, to my mind, I would think you have been as thorough as possible with the DIY work and checks you could be expected to do. With serviceable glow plugs, and the engine turning over enthusiastically ( and starting OK when hot, but not cold) then if it were, I think I would now be investing in an hour’s labour at a trusted local diesel specialist to investigate further - possible injector issues?? For ‘trusted local diesel specialist’ I normally suggest asking for recommendations at your local taxi rank - these chaps depend on such contacts. Unfortunately, I doubt whether you are going to get many taxis on the rank in these troubled times. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ray, Thanks for being in touch. Are both types interchangeable by any chance - i.e. same fixing points and set up? Could I suggest:- Asking the MOT station to put the car back on the ramp and take a photo of your ones. Trying TPS (Trade Parts Supplies) - armed with the VIN. Try another dealer. As daft as it sounds - try EBay. Many of the sellers are very helpful in identifying differences. Worth a try. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Octavian, Unfortunately this thread is 11 months old ,and again the original poster didn’t return to update the forum on the outcome. Again, I can only suggest you send him a PM, and if you get a response, then it would be great if you could let the forum know what it was. In your case:- Castrol 5/30 should be fine, so this can be discounted. Make of oil filter? If you don’t get a meaningful response, then I would be tempted to replace the oil pressure sensor ( I would go with Bosch if not using a genuine Audi one) and carefully check all associated wiring. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Octavian, The poster hasn’t returned to the forum since the day he joined some 9 months ago. I would suggest you send him a PM. Perhaps you would be kind enough to let us know the outcome if you have a reply. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry John, I’m with Cliff on this, and I’m having difficulty in trying to work out why you need part numbers if you are prepared to buy new - just order what you want. You can try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors) who might give you some discount. If you prefer to buy secondhand then EBay is a good place to start, and of course you can also register your wants with on-line car breaker links such as Partsfinder etc. - there are others. ( Sorry to those who, like me! are bored with repeating this). Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Peter, From the standpoint of eliminating the simple things first, then get the tyres checked as suggested. Good brands of tyres, matched on same axle and sensible tread? If you eliminate the tyres, then it seems you might be in for suspecting the rear wheel bearings (get your tyre people to check these for you), or the differential...but let’s not there yet. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, As previously asked, can you tell us what parts you are looking for, whether new or secondhand, and why part numbers are important to you? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks thanks Peter, Could you also let us have answers to the questions which were asked? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Peter, Don’t worry about being able to describe the noise, but can you let us have answers to the questions in my post. ’I’ve looked at the wheels and they seem all OK’. Have you actually taken each wheel off in turn (or get say a tyre company to do it for you) and thoroughly inspected all areas of the tyres - including the inner side walls? Sounds as if you might have only walked around the car and had a quick look! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello both, I’ve had already had a couple of PMs from Charlotte giving more detailed,meaningful information against other issues with this car. I’ve replied to her and thanked her for that. I’ve now had a PM from Derek - the original poster on this thread. This PM gives some - generally already known information, but nothing in reply to clarifying the ‘slow to start’ question:- engine turning over slowly, or enthusiastically but slow to start/fire? I wonder if I can ask posters not to PM me with answers to questions asked in the open forum, but to post their answers so everyone can follow the thread. I have asked Derek to post the content of his PM (and hopefully answer the basis question. Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello John, What sort of parts do you need, and where would you intend to buy from? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Could you give us a bit more detail, e.g. noise changes under acceleration, deceleration, different in different gears, and any change on cornering, and if so, left or right? Also have you removed the wheels and thoroughly examined the tyres for bulges and flat spots? Are tyres matched on the same axle, and of similar tread depths? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello both, I depends what you mean by difficult to start. If you mean the engine turns over slowly, then check battery (may test OK at normal temps., but can suffer from voltage drop at low temps.), battery terminal connections, main body and engine earth connections, starter motor issues and connections on to this. Its worth noting that Diesel engines run at over twice the compression ratio of petrol engines, so all the above are under greater stress than petrol engines - particularly at low temps., and batteries will need to be heavier duty to cope with this. If the engine turns over enthusiastically at low temperatures, but the car is still difficult to start - refer back. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks. We will leave the post run, since the responses may be of help to others in the future. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jo, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Unfortunately, the era of engine reconditioning on any large scale is a thing of the past, as engines tend to last much longer - except in terms of catastrophic failure. So, I guess looking for a reliable supplier may have to be restricted further to ‘...a supplier’. Depending on the reason for having to replace your engine, you could find you might have to resort to a secondhand engine via.a car breaker. Try registering your want with on line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are others. If your engine is relatively underaged, but worn in some respect, it may be possible to rebuild it with replacement components, if (in caps) you can find someone to do this reconditioning work. Your best bet of linking into anyone doing engine reconditioning would be via. this facility for classic cars, so it might be worth looking up a regional classic car club, and making some enquiries there. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Have you looked on EBay? Quite a number of sellers seem to be listing them, but you would need to check actual suitability. Kind regards, Gareth.

I have now had a PM from Charlotte, where as well as seeking more clarification on issues with the car, she advises that the charge made to renew the battery also included other investigations which were carried out without charge. I have asked her whether she objects to me posting this additional information contained within a PM, and no objection has been received. I feel I have unfairly judged her mobile mechanics (who I understand she is happy with and trust) - my judgement being based on the facts which were contained in her posts. For this, I apologise on behalf of the forum. To me, this demonstrates the need to clearly and comprehensively describe the full facts within any post, and I - frustratingly from both sides - find myself, boringly, having to ask for further information/clarification from posters seeking help on here, since the symptoms and background are not made as clear as they should be. I still stand by the remainder of my advice to Charlotte. To be honest, this is a bit of a rant, and I am finding myself spending an increasing amount of time either asking posters to explain in more detail - and many don’t even bother to respond, offering advise, with responses of been- there-done-that,although they haven’t said, or as usual, a total absence of any basic acknowledgement for time spent in trying to help. Sorry folks for boring with this, but I guess you will get the gist of where I am with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mariusz, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I take it you are talking about the hydraulic pump. These are generally quite reliable - subject to correct fluid levels, but roof operation can be affected by the moving parts linkages not being adequately lubricated. Can we take it you have attended to this? Part no.? Guess you are looking for a secondhand one ( having tried Audi, and they are no longer available/ too expensive), and if so, you could try registering your want on on line car breaker link sites, such as Partsfinder - there are more. Another alternative would be to investigate getting yours checked/ repaired. If it were mine, I would be tending to start looking at commercial vehicle repairers, since there should be hydraulic experience and recommended specialists via this route. Incidentally - looked on EBay? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK, discount this as the source of the (increased) leak then. If you think on about the source of the leak, logic suggests that whatever you have ‘sealed’ has made it worse, so you will now need to unseal each bit in turn to find which area has an effect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, Many thanks indeed for being in touch, and particularly for sharing your positive news on this subject. I don’t want to appear patronising, but I think it’s fair to say you (in caps) succeeded where others might have failed. I further believe that your last statement is of vital importance, and might mark the division between success and failure. Being able to communicate in a constructive fashion, with researched and carefully honed evidence, is the key. Without wishing to be derogatory, this becomes difficult for some - many? - but, as I said, marks the dividing line between success and failure, and unfortunately it’s this aspect of the situation is very often more important that the understood evidence. Would you advise taking advise/assistance in any (in caps) case presentation? Many thanks again Martin, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Hope you don’t mind me spelling this out, but:- Delay/do not employ the mechanics you used last time, until:- Charge the battery for at least overnight, and yes go to Halfords who should be able to test the battery for you - free of charge? A personal view, but I tend to buy Varta/Bosch batteries on line at competitive prices from battery specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. If the battery is shown to be serviceable then steer clear of the mechanics you used last time. If it proves unserviceable then get them to refund your expenditure for the battery. Auto electricians? Simply Google this for your locality. Ask around for recommendations for trusted local garages - why employ the services of mobile mechanics? - unless they come from recommendations. Inlet manifold? I would get the battery/ parasitic drain !Removed! seed before moving on to this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, I feel for you - £150 to supply and fit a Lion battery. Of course, this may have included a call out and first-hour charge, so perhaps we shouldn’t be too critical. Moving forward:- If this were mine, I would be charging this battery overnight, and getting its efficiency independently checked. It may well be serviceable, but you have to start off from a point of confirming whether it is or isn’t. If it isn’t, then get yourself a refund, and replace it with a good quality one. I too would suspect you have a parasitic drain on the electrical systems ( as well), and this can be easily confirmed/refuted via. a simple specialist test. If indeed it does, then it is a specialist job to identify the offending circuit/s - unless you have the correct meters and specialist knowledge. Summary:- Get the battery charged and tested. Replace if suspect. If serviceable, engage the services of a trusted local auto electrician to assess and source any parasitic drain. Kind regards, Gareth.

Ok Steve - thanks. By what you tell us, the car is losing coolant even though you have not let that loss low enough to activate the low coolant sensor - you say ‘ almost gone’. It has to be going somewhere! What you don’t tell us is what mileage is covered for the coolant to drop to ‘almost gone’, from the starting point of being topped up - the Max. mark? Appreciating the Audi independent is booked up, but my suggestion was to get the car inspected by a diesel specialist rather than an Audi specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Thanks for being in touch. It’s stating the obvious that coolant is being lost - either via. an external leak ( smell of coolant?) or via. being burnt as part of the combustion. If this were mine, I would be seeking out a good recommended local diesel specialist, and get them to check this over, and isolate the problem. Kind regards, Gareth.