Magnet

Hello Ian, Thanks for being in touch. Do you have the same issue? If so, can I suggest you start a new thread - better than tagging on to a 3 year old one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mo, ’...fully charged about 2 weeks ago and driven ( how many miles?) today ...’ and some of the values not looking too healthy (64% charged and your opening voltage figure of below 12v), suggests the battery is below par. Do you know if this battery is the original? If it is, then it’s highly likely it’s on its last legs, and if so, if it were mine, then I would only replace it with a quality brand such as Varta/Bosch, bought on line at the most competitive price. Having said all that, it would obviously be well worth getting the battery efficiency checked before replacing it, and getting the alternator output checked at the same time. So one step at a time and get the battery checked. If it is serviceable, and the alternator output is fine, then there is another possibility to consider, but no need to go into this yet. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, and thanks for being in touch. Taking this one step at a time, the presence of ‘white goo’ in the oil filler gap, is not really an indicator that the head gasket has failed - and certainly not, if the car is not losing any coolant ( as in your case) - since white goo will either occur due to coolant mixing with the engine oil, or equally likely, from condensation due to short runs etc. Having said all that, the HG can fail and allow combustion gasses to pass between cylinders (rather than between a cylinder and a water way) or between a cylinder and an/the oilway. If this were mine, I would first check/ have checked, the compression pressures on each cylinder to establish whether there are any issues in line with those mentioned in the last paragraph. If so, you know you have some HG failure, or if the compression pressures are acceptable then you don’t. If you don’t, I would be checking the engine breather system, and first considering an oil and filter change using quality oil and filter. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Johnathan, Wondered if you got any further with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds sensible Niall, and different and understandable and different from what you sated in the opening post! So now you need to get the oil pressure values read - under optimum running conditions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the additional information Niall. So with your mate’s background, it would seem you are totally equipped to successfully fix both issues then. Apologies, but I’m still confused by the oil warning - you say it was an oil level warning, but since the oil level is OK you assuming it’s an oil pressure warning? Sorry, don’t understand. Anyway, good luck in getting it fixed, and it’s quite possible that someone on here may have had the same problem and will share their findings with you, but if not, it would be great if you could let the forum know how you get on. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Niall, Thanks for being in touch. I will attempt to answer your questions:- Will renewing the valve sort out the (falls?) oil level warning issue? More basic question will be, will replacing this valve, sort out your boost problem? If may, but it seems you are assuming that your mate’s diagnostics (basic kit) is pointing to the correct offender. Many and indeed most, owners put their faith in theses codes, and assume that if the code points to component x, that x is at fault. It may be, but it could be ‘at fault’ due to receiving an inadequate signal from component y. So, a long way of saying changing the N75 valve unfortunately comes with no guarantee of solving even your boost - it may, but may it will be. If this were mine, I would be first wanting to check all associated pipework to check for leaks - which could Your oil warning. Was this a warning for a low oil level, or a low oil pressure? Very much two different issues, and needs to be clarified. Way forward:- Throw a new valve at it in the hope that it will solve the issues, or - better option in my book- invest in an hour’s time of a trusted local diesel specialist, and move forward from there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, There are three options here as I see it:- Continue to try to understand and ‘repair’ what you have. Look for a secondhand unit. Buy a new unit from your main dealer. These options are listed in order of maximum effort and hassle, and minimum outlay - if that is the most important consideration. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mantus, Thanks for being in touch, but I think it’s going to be impossible to correctly diagnose the source of your noise, when we have so little information to go with. I’m sure you will appreciate that any such noise needs to be assessed by actually examining the car, and if this were mine, I would be treating the diagnosis as being urgent, and getting the car booked in to be inspected without delay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, You may be lucky with someone coming up with an answer based on your description. OK, you may have previous poor assistance experiences at an Audi dealer, but surely this is where the answer lies via. the shortest possible route. If it were mine, I would be visiting my local dealer, armed with your salvaged bits and location description, and talking with the parts department who should be able to provide a schematic of what you need. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds a lovely car, well described, and for sale at a fraction of its cost when new. Let’s hope it finds its next appreciative owner quickly - I’m sure it will. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Josh, Thanks for being in touch, and it’s certainly worth asking Terry what eventually happened, since posts frequently remain open ended. If I were you, I think I would be sending a PM to Terry, since he hasn’t visited the forum since the end of May. Perhaps you could let us know the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aide, Sorry, I cant help you on your engine, but yes, it is behind the alternator on our humble 1.6 A3. It will probably help to get the part first - take it you are buying a genuine one rather than an aftermarket. Audi may come with the housing, so that will aid finding its location. Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff should be able to supply with some discount, and mail order. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, For ‘.....my garage.....’ should we read this as not being a main dealer or an Audi independent? If it were mine, I’d be asking myself - can I afford an oil and filter change, and if so, I would be tempted to get it done, since it is not really a waste of money, as David DTi points out with short engine use journeys - never the best operating conditions. The only caveat I would add (if not main dealer or independent) would be to ensure whoever does it uses a recognised good branded oil and filter. If that isn’t the case, then there would be a case for not changing it if quality parts were used at the last service. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adrian, Thanks for being in touch. If the gauge is reading true at c70 degrees, then yes, you must suspect the thermostat. I would look into getting this renewed, but I would carefully consider the brand of the replacement you are going to use, if not using a genuine VAG one - which is what I would use. Some aftermarket ones can be of variable quality, and could lead to having to spend twice, rather than once and wisely. You could try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff, who would probably do one mail order at discount. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, It would seem by your description that the variance in idle RPM is marginal around the just-above, just-below 800 rpm. Diesel is rather variable density wise in relation to temperature, and although I wouldn’t claim this to be an influencer, if it were mine, I would not be too worried about it at this stage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Many thanks for being in touch. As much as folks on here would like to help, I’m sure you will appreciate that trying to diagnose such an issue without inspecting the car and hearing the noise, can be an almost impossible task. Could I ask, that if you have an assistant standing outside the car, is there a possibility that the noise may be tracked down to a particular wheel/axle? Possible guesses - corroding brake back plate/plates rubbing on disc, bit of road grit jammed between disc and back plate - but guesses they are. If this were mine, I would be contacting the seller to report the issue, and seeking permission to get the car inspected at a trusted local garage, if the seller isn’t local. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Not wanting to put a dampener on your intention, but I guess you have considered the negative effects on your Audi’s warranty by getting this done - and of course the insurance implications. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear of your issues. A couple of back to basics to consider:- Fuses may not necessarily fail (blow), but the holder slot may have a high contact resistance and give a reduced voltage. The assumption from the fuse-not-blown check, is that the component it feeds is at fault. I obviously can’t claim this was the issue with your original pump, but if this car were mine, I would be treating all the fuses to a good spray of contact cleaner and a good wiggling, to ensure the contacts are clean enough to make good connection. The second consideration is that your new pump has actually failed. After 1000 miles though?? Not sure what make of pump you fitted, but if aftermarket, some components via. this supply route can be of highly variable quality and service life. Of course, unless you do a low annual mileage, the fuel should be replaceable under warranty if indeed it has failed. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Can we take it you have changed the fuel filter in recent times? If not, then it would be a good move to renew it (using only a good quality replacement) once you have your fuel supply reinstated.

Ok Sarah, now we know it’s seriously damaged. No criticism meant, but more often than not, the lack of important detail as the posts progress, leads to suggestions being made which are not applicable, yet time consuming to compile as replies. Taking bits off the car? In my experience, you either buy the salvage as a complete unit, or you don’t - and you don’t ‘asset strip’ the remains! Kind regards, Gareth.

Makes more sense to first sit at home and give TPS a ring William - don’t forget to ask for a copy of the drawing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Sarah, Not wanting to protract this, but trying to concentrate the mind in perhaps a positive manner - air bags deployed may represent major damage or minor damage. Since I sense you are understandably attached to this car, it might be worth sitting back and giving the repair route a coat of thinking about since you will have a budget of >£4 ( less whatever they will change you to buy the salvage ) to get your ( in caps) car back to the condition you cherished. Having a bit more cash than offered? It may sound attractive to barter for another couple of hundred or so, but then you have to find another similar car of unknown pedigree. Having said that, only you know the full extent of the damage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Sarah, OK, cutting to the chase - what has been said is reasonable, constructive and progressive. I note you still say that yours has ‘this and that’, whereas others don’t, but it will be boring to repeat that such one-time-expensive extras are effectively worthless as the car ages. Your ‘near enough’ Autotrader link is in reality a mile-off as a comparison since it is a 3 year younger vehicle, and its reassuring to note that you too don’t see it as worthy of comparison, but it leads me to believe that you are still looking for that exact match ( specification wise) rather than looking at the more reasonable broader picture valuation. It would be great if you you could share the extent of the damage, and by considering the repair route, you will of course end up with an exact match for what you had, and who knows, by buying the salvage and paying for repairs, you may just end up with some money in your pocket! Regarding any offence taken in respect to not actually using your name, I feel I must defend Cliff’s post ( if I need to) since I’m sure the last thing he intended was to be offensive. Its interesting Sarah that you say you have other things to do apart from staring at a computer - don’t we all! I would again defend this forum as being an absolute free source of assistance - at the drop of a hat- for anyone who feels they only need to ask for it, and it’s now my turn to moan, but it’s rare ( as hen’s teeth?) for a very few to hang around and subsequently take their time to help others. Now that’s my rant! - with apologies. I don’t want to claim any accolades for contributing on here, but if you can spare a couple of minutes to calculate the time I’ve spent on posting/assisting/boring posters at over 2,600 posts at say an underestimated 4mins/post, I bet it represents a fair (waste?) of my time. Anyway, I really wish you well with your quest to obtain an higher than offered pay out, following compiling your supporting evidence. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello William, So is there a problem finding a quality aftermarket one without the part number? Kind regards, Gareth. You could try TPS and ask them if they could send you a photo of the drawing to make sure you are enquiring about the correct part.

Hello William, Thanks for being in touch. I wonder if you would be kind enough to fill in the story of why secondhand. Kind regards, Gareth.