Magnet

Hello Ian, Your raise some interesting points here, and it’s obvious that you appreciate the adverse effect XL tyres have on ride comfort. I’m not sure if your XL are Run- flat as well, but both will add to the tyres inflexible characteristics. Couple this with 40 profile on a not stupidly wide tyre, and you end up with a ride quality asking to what we used to call a gumbo, or similar to solid tyres! Why XL? Well I guess it’s because it’s an estate, and it’s assumed you will be frequently carrying loads to it’s designed weight limit. If you aren’t, and you would prefer a more comfortable ride then it would be worth considering not fitting XL tyres. Tyre sizes fitted vs. specified sizes? It’s not uncommon for owners to opt for near-miss alternative widths/profiles if they can buy those alternatives cheaper, so it wouldn’t surprise me that that is what has happened here. What make are they incidentally? I would certainly consider replacing them with the specified size. Brands? Depends on how important your budget it, but to me, final mileage achieved from a set of tyres usually works out similar in terms of £s spent for mileages achieved. Backs still not specified sizes? I guess it depends on how you drive, since you might be introducing a number of variables here in terms of non XL on the front. Not sure how much of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Great to hear you are the custodian of an earlier Audi. I think the answer to your question ( apart from the McPherson being the design bit) may be rather academic, since you could find that the current availability of various brands is limited by who still produces aftermarket ones for this 22 year old car, rather than allowing a fair degree of choice. Its always a bit of a toss up between opting for whatever new-old-stock ones are still about - with the increased possibility of seals etc. deteriorating over time, or going for manufacturer’s current stock where available. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Incidentally, I guess you are aware that the car could satisfy the requirements for being insured on a cheaper agreed value Classic car policy if it isn’t your sole means of transport.

Hello Martin, Along with Cliff’s reply, I would ask for more information about when this intermittent blue smoke is evident. There are two basic tests better judge the causes of blue smoke:- When the engine is fully up to optimum operation g conditions - i.e. about 5 miles after the coolant temperature reaches normal - allow the engine to idle at say traffic lights, and ask your following accomplice to note any blue smoke when you start to move away. You should also ask for blue smoke assessment immediately after travelling down hill, then accelerating. If blue smoke is evident on these occasions, then it’s likely the oil is passing the valve guides, either via. worn guides or more generally failing valve stem oil seals. The second test is to note any blue smoke on enthusiastic acceleration. This is usually attributed to worn piston rings. How much oil does this engine use Martin? More problematic starting may not be associated with the blue smoke issue, but as Cliff says - it might be. If it were mine, I would be wanting to eliminate/investigating any connection between the two, and first looking to other reasons why it’s not starting as well as it did. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Many thanks for the update. I think you have now (unfortunately) eliminated the engine-driven components, and have reasonable evidence that the issue is likely to be engine-internal. If it were mine, I would now be seeking an urgent diagnosis at a trusted local independent. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, In answer to your question ....’ should I get it independently assessed...? , I would say without doubt - yes. I would not fall into the trap of believing that full-service-history equals a trouble free car to date, or in the future. Indeed, many cars come to the market, simply because some expensive issue has been found at a service (and not necessarily recorded), and the owner has decided to sell rather than meet that expenditure. A good talk with the last registered owner will often provide more information about a car then a set of stamps in a book. Kind regards, Gareth.

Didn’t know you and the forum were into midwifery as well now Steve! Great - It’s reassuring to know I’m not the only one to fall victim to predictive text. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russel, Sorry to hear of your issue, but can we take it that the 3 year warranty applies to new cars in Pakistan? If so, you really don’t need to worry about it, since it just becomes the Audi dealer’s responsibility to deal with the problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Matt hasn’t been pack to the forum for 20 months, so probably best to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Two things Wayne:- I wouldn’t assume anything. You really don’t have any evidence to support your assumption. I would simply give this a most thorough inspection, and see what comes to light. Re. ‘Proper look when I can...’. The car is trying to tell you something, and personally I would suggest that any such noise warrants urgent inspection. I would not want to be in travelling near to this vehicle when whatever it is that is worn decides it’s had enough! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wayne, Highly unlikely to be associated with brake pads unless it happens when you apply the brakes. Sounds to be more like a suspension issue, and I would suggest it would be wise to get the car inspected as soon as possible, unless you are adequately equipped and experienced to diagnose the problem on your own. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ranvir, Sorry to be a pain, but when you say ‘surface scratches’ do these result in a lack of colour in the scratches, or are they simply scuffs in the lacquer? I probably didn’t explain clearly, but the pearlescent colour coats are applied first, and this paint is totally’ protected’ by coats of clear lacquer. So, if the scratches are only in the lacquer, then you are not going to be abrading the pearlescent coat at all, so there isn’t anything to worry about. However, if the scratches have resulted in colour loss, then you will be wasting your money on trying to ‘add paint’ by using scratch remover, so best to keep that money in your pocket and use it towards a smart repair. So called scratch removers generally only provide a short term improvement, and you may just a well consider using a coloured polish to try to minimise the effect. General rule of thumb would be that if you can feel the scratch with your finger nail, then you can forget about making much of an improvement by using scratch removers. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

No need for diagnostic then Michael. Hope you didn’t use a Poundland type battery! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ranvir, I don’t think it’s so much of - can you use this scratch remover? - but more to do with if it is going to give you any significant improvement. It all depends on the depth of the scratch, and if it has removed paint (probably?) rather than just lacquer. If it has removed paint, then no amount of rubbing with scratch removers is going to add paint to the scratch. The car will have been painted with the colour and then overcoated with clear lacquer. If it’s just the the lacquer which has been damaged, then yes scratch remover will help to minimise the effect of the scrstch. If you have indeed damaged the paint film then it would be worth considering a ‘smart’ repair, ( more costly , but saving the cost of buying the scratch remover). Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m still left wondering if the fob battery has been changed or not!

Hello Henry, Offering longer warranty periods than the industry norm of 3 years is clever, since of course, it will be dependent on dealer servicing over that extended period of time, so they reap rewards from that ‘restriction’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Michael indicates, but not confirms, that he hasn’t yet changed the batteries. That would be my first obvious course of action to eliminate this possible connection.

Hello Michael, Probably a silly question to ask, but you have renewed the fob batteries in recent times? Also ‘stranded’? Does the car have key opening locks? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mickey, Thought it was a wheel sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Leave the confusion to the crinklies! There’s a bit of concern re. increasing ethanol, but I haven’t mentioned it to my pair of same make 1930 s cars yet! Take care, Kind regards, Gareth.

Pleasure Mike. It does seem as if there is some ‘history’ with your local dealer, and it’s understandable that you would want to steer away from them in favour of an independent. Hopefully some of the points I raised re. independents may allow you to ask questions and set up a rapport with whoever you use. Re. brake pads - just an observation, but if there was 35% left when they wanted to change them, then with a say 9mm starting point, the remaining pad thickness would be a bit over 3mm, and it may be understandable for the dealer to recommend renewing then since they could well be below the acceptable limit by the next time they see the car for servicing. Some may say cautionary approach, others might say rip-off. Just being devil’s advocate! Hopefully someone will come along and recommend someone suitable in your area. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, You raise some good points. I take it your model year doesn’t have an actual stamp-able service book, and the servicing record has to be logged into Audi’ online system. If so, and you wish to continue this, then you will need to find an independent who is linked to Audi’s system, and being cynical! - it is difficult for you to confirm they actually are, and will have logged the service. Perhaps they could show you an online record example of one which they have recently logged. Independents will usually only use genuine VAG parts, but again you will need to assure yourself about this. One final point would be to check the like for like costs of an independent against your local main dealer, and decide if the cost saving is worthwhile in your case. Beware, renewing things like pollen filters can be considered as ‘extras’, so you will need to check it is indeed like for like. Independents probably have access to updates, but again you would need to check on that. Local garage? Highly unlikely to have access to input servicing, but should be able to provide you will servicing receipts which you can obviously file for record purposes. Good local garages can often provide more thorough servicing, but may well use aftermarket parts. Sounds like ‘Full service history’ is important to you, so you will need to decide what gives you peace of mind towards that goal, and how much extra that peace of mind is worth to you. Perhaps some of this may help you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brett, Welcome to the forum. As I am sure you will appreciate, the car will need to be thoroughly recommissioned - i.e. the most comprehensive service possible, including renewing all filters, belts and fluids. The brakes will certainly need to be stripped and important items such as pads, linings, discs etc. also renewed, and it is suggested that the brake master cylinder be renewed, or certainly fitted with new seals before renewing the brake fluid. Similar situation will arise with wheel cylinders if the brake brakes are drum. Standing for 11 years? No doubt you will appreciate that the car will need a new set of tyres before use, irrespective of remaining tread. Simply starting it should not be a major worry, but I would suggest first removing the spark plugs and adding about an egg cup full of Redex down each cylinder, adding a couple of gallons of fresh fuel, and leaving the car stand over night before attempting to start it using your new battery. I would then be switching it off a minute after it starts, then drawing the oil off and renewing the oil, air and fuel filters before restarting and leaving it run up to temperature. It would also be wise to add Redex to the fuel over the coming months. Enjoy. Once you have it recommissioned, it would be advisable to insurer it on an agreed value basis ( advise on where to go can be given) if the car isn’t your main vehicle. Just let us know if we can help further. Kind regards, Gareth.

As you say Essex Steve, everyday is a learning day, but I am of an age where I am easily confused! So Steve Q - ‘adding/higher’ sulphur content in modern fuels? I thought they were actively reducing it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Micky, I would be suspecting one of the ABS wheel sensors or simply a poor connection at the plug onto one of them. Sounds like it will be necessary to have the car plugged in to the diagnostics to actually identify the offending wheel. Some models have the ABS signalling built into the (rear) hub, so if not the sensor then it could be the hub. Of course, the diagnostics might point to something else. Perhaps you could let us know what shows up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michelle, I would say this is certainly not typical of Audi, although it seems to be reported that some hatchback models suffer from water ingress which affects the rear wiper motor - but not the paintwork? Not applicable to the cabriolet. I would begin to question the originality of the paintwork in this area, and certainly discuss this with the seller, since it needs to be ‘sorted’ before it gets worse, although actually permanently curing rust issues is not easy. The selling dealer may maintain that this ‘problem’ was easily apparent on a normal walk around assessment of the car, and as such was acceptable to you, but obviously well worth raising. Re Audi and their 12? year rust warranty? I think you will find that the car has to have a faultless full main dealer service history before discussions are even opened, but again no harm in trying. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.