Magnet

Hello Steve, Leave the confusion to the crinklies! There’s a bit of concern re. increasing ethanol, but I haven’t mentioned it to my pair of same make 1930 s cars yet! Take care, Kind regards, Gareth.

Pleasure Mike. It does seem as if there is some ‘history’ with your local dealer, and it’s understandable that you would want to steer away from them in favour of an independent. Hopefully some of the points I raised re. independents may allow you to ask questions and set up a rapport with whoever you use. Re. brake pads - just an observation, but if there was 35% left when they wanted to change them, then with a say 9mm starting point, the remaining pad thickness would be a bit over 3mm, and it may be understandable for the dealer to recommend renewing then since they could well be below the acceptable limit by the next time they see the car for servicing. Some may say cautionary approach, others might say rip-off. Just being devil’s advocate! Hopefully someone will come along and recommend someone suitable in your area. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, You raise some good points. I take it your model year doesn’t have an actual stamp-able service book, and the servicing record has to be logged into Audi’ online system. If so, and you wish to continue this, then you will need to find an independent who is linked to Audi’s system, and being cynical! - it is difficult for you to confirm they actually are, and will have logged the service. Perhaps they could show you an online record example of one which they have recently logged. Independents will usually only use genuine VAG parts, but again you will need to assure yourself about this. One final point would be to check the like for like costs of an independent against your local main dealer, and decide if the cost saving is worthwhile in your case. Beware, renewing things like pollen filters can be considered as ‘extras’, so you will need to check it is indeed like for like. Independents probably have access to updates, but again you would need to check on that. Local garage? Highly unlikely to have access to input servicing, but should be able to provide you will servicing receipts which you can obviously file for record purposes. Good local garages can often provide more thorough servicing, but may well use aftermarket parts. Sounds like ‘Full service history’ is important to you, so you will need to decide what gives you peace of mind towards that goal, and how much extra that peace of mind is worth to you. Perhaps some of this may help you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brett, Welcome to the forum. As I am sure you will appreciate, the car will need to be thoroughly recommissioned - i.e. the most comprehensive service possible, including renewing all filters, belts and fluids. The brakes will certainly need to be stripped and important items such as pads, linings, discs etc. also renewed, and it is suggested that the brake master cylinder be renewed, or certainly fitted with new seals before renewing the brake fluid. Similar situation will arise with wheel cylinders if the brake brakes are drum. Standing for 11 years? No doubt you will appreciate that the car will need a new set of tyres before use, irrespective of remaining tread. Simply starting it should not be a major worry, but I would suggest first removing the spark plugs and adding about an egg cup full of Redex down each cylinder, adding a couple of gallons of fresh fuel, and leaving the car stand over night before attempting to start it using your new battery. I would then be switching it off a minute after it starts, then drawing the oil off and renewing the oil, air and fuel filters before restarting and leaving it run up to temperature. It would also be wise to add Redex to the fuel over the coming months. Enjoy. Once you have it recommissioned, it would be advisable to insurer it on an agreed value basis ( advise on where to go can be given) if the car isn’t your main vehicle. Just let us know if we can help further. Kind regards, Gareth.

As you say Essex Steve, everyday is a learning day, but I am of an age where I am easily confused! So Steve Q - ‘adding/higher’ sulphur content in modern fuels? I thought they were actively reducing it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Micky, I would be suspecting one of the ABS wheel sensors or simply a poor connection at the plug onto one of them. Sounds like it will be necessary to have the car plugged in to the diagnostics to actually identify the offending wheel. Some models have the ABS signalling built into the (rear) hub, so if not the sensor then it could be the hub. Of course, the diagnostics might point to something else. Perhaps you could let us know what shows up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michelle, I would say this is certainly not typical of Audi, although it seems to be reported that some hatchback models suffer from water ingress which affects the rear wiper motor - but not the paintwork? Not applicable to the cabriolet. I would begin to question the originality of the paintwork in this area, and certainly discuss this with the seller, since it needs to be ‘sorted’ before it gets worse, although actually permanently curing rust issues is not easy. The selling dealer may maintain that this ‘problem’ was easily apparent on a normal walk around assessment of the car, and as such was acceptable to you, but obviously well worth raising. Re Audi and their 12? year rust warranty? I think you will find that the car has to have a faultless full main dealer service history before discussions are even opened, but again no harm in trying. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, I think I would need that opinion in writing incase there is any future element of risk regarding the warranty relating to inadequate servicing. Did they tell when it actually will need servicing? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Can’t really understand why it was suggested that track rod (ends?) would be the main cause of this symptom. Who suggested that? In my book, the most likely culprit would be a comparatively inefficient right hand brake calliper, or a snatching (not smooth) left hand one. It is often better to replace both callipers if one is giving problems. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Apologies for the non specific detail with the A4, but sunroof front drains normally egress behind the front wheelarch liners. Rears? - possibly the same to the forward side of the rear arch liners. Sunroofs are a pain! I would now avoid them, having experienced well soaked foot wells on a Rover 75 due to blocked drains - eventually cured, and premature rusting around the sunroof on an earlier Jaguar XJ X300. Perhaps you could fill in a little more detail about the symptoms of your suspected blocked drains Stuart. Hopefully someone will come along with the specific egress points for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Fine, then you will need to run the risk of the potential consequences, have the responsibility of informing your insurers, and I guess anyone who may have a shared financial connection with the vehicle.

Hello Adrian, Are you really thinking of adding wheel spacers to a brand new car, and running the risk of voiding the warranty - certainly in terms of wheel bearings, drive shafts, suspension etc? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, It is likely the car service plan has been set on the low mileage annual scale, rather than the Longlife c18k or 18 months. It would be worthwhile having a serious talk with the dealer to ensure the warranty isn’t compromised, since Audi are understandably going to dictate (annual?) servicing requirements irrespective of the exceptional low mileage covered. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neil, You have invested substantial funds in this car, and the reasonable expectation should be you can sit back and enjoy it. You really shouldn’t be expected to have the responsibility of continually adding oil to this new prestige model, as if it were a worn out banger that you had just bought for a couple of hundreds of pounds! Not on in my book, but let’s hope it gets better. Not wishing to pry into your circumstances, but if there is any element of finance involved, then it would be wise to copy them in on all correspondence since technically they will have ownership/part ownership and indeed responsibility of it. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, In the absence of any other replies so far, perhaps some of the following may point you forward:- Temperature gauge -since you have confirmed the gauge is receiving voltage, then I would suspect a failed temperature sender unit. Exactly where it lives within the coolant system on your car? - but I would anticipate it to only have one wire feed to it on this age of car. The sender is usually brass bodied and possibly screwed into thermostat housing or similar. Take you have a Haynes workshop manual, and this should assist. Rev. counter. Does you model still retain an ignition distributor? If so, the rpm signal was usually picked up there, so worth cleaning all associated connections. Side rubbers? Perhaps you could elaborate on which ones you mean. Sources of parts? This age car is now under the umbrella of a ‘modern classic’ , and indeed there is a monthly publication by that name. It would be worth looking at specialist advertisers in there, and perhaps placing wanted adds for what you need. Other publications include ‘Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer, Classic Car Mart etc.etc. Might be worth popping in to your local longer established Audi dealer/s and having a chat with the parts department boys. This car is from the era when were stocking parts rather than obtaining them by overnight order, so...... you might be lucky. Anyway, worth fostering relationships in any case. What are you doing for insurance Matt? This age of car should qualify for classic car insurance, with the all important agreed value cover. If this isn’t your sole means of transport, then such cover is really a must have. Just let us know if this might be of any use. Good luck and enjoy the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Many thanks for the detailed explanation, and hopefully the logic of the importance of good body/chassis earths will now be clear. Only one point that I would clarify - ‘The negative lead (earth in my words) from the starter goes to the body......’. Is this something unique to the Q7, since generally - where the engine is earthed via. its own substantial earth lead, the starter will pick up a good earth from is substantially bolted connection to the engine? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello (sorry we don’t know your name). You have already answered your question by 120km or 5 years - whichever comes first. Since the belt was last changed 15 years ago, it should in theory now be due for its 3rd change since 2005, but indeed it hasn’t been changed at all! Now urgent. Rubber deteriorates with age, hence the time limit, and low mileage -in terms of stop starts can subject the belt to great stresses than higher mileage up-to-operating- conditions use. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I would be changing the auxiliary belt as well.

Hello Adian, I would be advertising my ‘wants’ in specialist publications such as Modern Classics, Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer - there are more. It might also be worth registering the wants on the car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - again there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Sorry to hear of your concerns with this car. The theory is that all engines can (in caps) be a expected to burn some oil during the bedding-in period, but in reality I feel it’s more of a cop-out statement than an actually expected fact. The problem you have here, is that you are going to be subjected to this ‘excuse’ probably until the car has covered at least 5,000 miles and probably more - if they can keep you on a string beyond that time point. To try to put an anticipated time scale on this, what will be your expected monthly average mileage over the coming months? In old English, this engine is currently consuming 1 pint of oil every c 680 miles, and this is -to say the least - inconvenient. In comparison, I have a couple of cars over 80 year old and not using that much! Anyway, if this were mine, I would be writing/e mailing the dealer principal - phone cals and visits would not be adequate - and informing him (opps, or her) of your concerns, and the fact that you will be monitoring the consumption over the next 2? months before deciding on a course of action. That could include rejecting the car, if the consumption doesn’t reduce. To me, it would be all important to record and date every check you carry out, and keep the dealer informed at the same time. Evidence will be king. Probably an unnecessary suggestion, but buy your top up oil (5/litres) - ask them to confirm the required grade via. the reg. no. - at the same dealer, and retain the receipt. I would be removing any excuse along the line ‘you’ve used the wrong oil’, so I would strongly advise against using any other oil than is supplied to you by the dealer. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Orlando, Many thanks for the additional information. Just a couple of things to consider:- How severe is the judder? Not really smooth, but tolerable, or worse than that? Does the invoice also confirm that the dual mass flywheel was also from the LUK brand? Have you contacted the garage who fitted this to gain their reaction? No offence meant re. the question of clutch-unfriendly driving style. As a bit of a downside, your journey pattern (just commuting?) does point to a higher than average number of stop, starts, and clutch operation, but having said that, the clutch should still sustain a good operation over your period of service. Re. A6 s having a bad reputation in respect of this issue- as we all appreciate, bad news travels faster than good, and although there are posts regarding similar issues, it would probably be unfair to conclude ‘they are all the same’. Sach clutches? Sorry Orlando, I cant offer experience of these being better or worse than LUK, since I’ve always used LUK to good effect, and not needed to try any other brand. My final stab at this would be to question the brand of DMF used, and to raise the issue which the garage, so that they can road test it and comment. Kind regards, Gareth.

Fair point Ian, but the MOT emission requirements would be controlled by the acceptable figures already in the VOSA system against your car registration. Also, since Audi fitted the car with a catalytic converter, it will have programmed the fuelling to correspond with that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I’m not disputing your claim that the car doesn’t have to have a catalytic converter since it is pre 1992, but I would raise the counter query that it might indeed still need to be fitted since the car was built with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ross, I’m sure the forum and others will be very interested in the ongoings and outcome of your very valid ‘taking them on’ intention. Perhaps you could keep the forum up to date on how you get on, since clearly, someone needs to get some positive outcome from this. Too long overdue. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Orlando, Sorry to hear of your issues. As you say, you should not experience such issues within less than 2 years of clutch life, but apologies, but the question must be asked as to how ‘heavy’ are you on clutch systems, since the car was OK when you bought it, yet had significant clutch issues a few months later? Only you will know whether your driving style is or isn’t biased towards being clutch-unfriendly. LUK clutches are normally the best alternative to the non-competitively priced Audi components. Judging by the price you paid, it would suggest you had the dual mass flywheel replaced at the same time, so all should still be well at this length of service. Could you confirm from your invoice? Incidentally, what mileage have you covered in this time, and what is your normal journey type in the London area? Anything better than LUK? I would say, they are more than good enough for normal driving, but there would be alternatives towards ‘competition’ clutches if your driving style warrants that. Perhaps you could let us know on the question points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the additional comments Ben. OK so the clutch appears not to have failed by gradual wear, but by some catastrophic failure of one of the components - probably the clutch release bearing assembly. Coolant sensor - garage should have noticed this, and this, together with the ‘low oil’ warning ( real or sensor issue) would lead me to question their necessary attention to detail. Of course, you must return the car to them, but if it were mine, I would be looking for another garage to do any subsequent servicing/repairs. They will also need to deal with the wheel sensor issue. It sounds as if your battery may be the original ( check for Audi associated labelling). If it is, then again if it were mine, I would be just biting the bullet and replacing it with a good quality( in caps) one, since it’s likely to let you down, even if it isn’t the direct cause of your stop/start and warning light issues. I only buy Varta/Bosch batteries and go with their ‘at least 4 year’ warranty quality ones. I buy on line at best price/service from specialists such as Battery Megastore (via. EBay to get free postage), Tanya Batteries, etc. - there are more, and I don’t have any connection. Kind regards, Gareth.