Magnet

Hello Alan, You seem to suggest that your battery is now discharging within the working day. Is that the case? If so, you have some major ‘parasitic’ drain. Water and electrics and battery control module? Obviously not a good recipe, but since you had issues prior, then there may well still be residual issues. Unless you have the meters and skills, I would invest in an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician with some urgency. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Replacing warped discs? Not a logical way forward in my book. If the discs are that warped then you would feel, it as a pulsing pedal. 65/70 mph is typical wheel balance/tyre territory, and without doubt, I would not be renewing anything until rear/ front tyres are swopped. Have you got matching make and tread pattern tyres, at least on the same axle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Natalie, I think the quickest and most reliable answer to your questions will lie at another dealership where you are more likely to get impartial advice. Yes, it’s possible the items you describe are standard equipment for your model, but it could (just could be) that they are ‘extras’. Being Devil’s advocate :- I guess you bought the car in the condition/equipped as it is now, and the dealership may well maintain that you have what you bought, since none of the items could be seen as essential. Of course, if the vehicle was bought as new then it would have to be equipped as built. As secondhand, it will be equipped with everything that was with it when you agreed to buy it. If it were mine, I would be enquiring at another dealer, then talking nicely to see what compromise you can come to (if any) if anything is missing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Are we taking the rear footwell here- actually where a passenger’s feet would rest, or somewhere else in the rear ‘compartment’ - sorry I don’t know where the amplifier lives. Wondered what evidence you have to support eliminating the sun roof and it’s drains, and are there any tell tale signs of water stains ‘running down’ to the offending area? Or indeed to indicate if the water is being sloshed into the area from the or rear directions if practical. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well that blows that theory then Chris! Normally vibrations felt through seat or floor is associated with rear wheel imbalance. Tried shopping front wheels to back? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, When you say you have had the wheels balanced, is that all four? Kind regards, Gareth.

Back plate?

Hello Belinda, Many thanks for coming back on this, and I understand that the history of the issues is a bit hazy with you, so let’s look to boiling it down:- The car is using more oil than it should, and my view is that you will have to live with this (ensuring you keep the level topped up) since rectifying this problem will be expensive. The oil leak can be lived with if you have an MOT station who aren’t too fussy with these things! The car is using coolant- so you will need to get someone to find out where this coolant is going - another pressure test would be suggested. The car misfires? - maybe associated with coolant leaking into a cylinder - but this is just an assumption and a coolant pressure test may reveal something. Water pump?? I don’t think we have a clear understanding with this, so I cannot comment. Cambelt change? (If your engine is belt driven?). Belt would need changing say every 5 years irrespective of mileage. It sounds like you need to find yourself a trusted local garage - one where all the issues can be discussed, but I would strongly advise that you take your brother in law with you. Can’t your brother in law diagnose and assist with some of the work? Hope some of the above might help to clarify Belinda. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, You may be right in that minimum ‘road legal’ tyres may be adequate, but there is something in my mind that motor traders have to ensure there is a minimum of 3mm of thread remaining on vehicles offered for retail. Same applies for handing back end of lease cars?

Hello Thomas, Apologies, but I’ve lost the thread! - but seems you have a diagnosis of a faulty ABS sensor, or could it be a faulty signal to the ABS sensor. Not sure what you know that we don’t. Anyway, ABS sensors and EBay - yes of course if possibly you want to buy at the cheapest possible price for any old aftermarket one - if it works for any length of time. EBay is great too for say a quality Bosch one at a reasonable price. Re hub bearing renewal? Not sure on your model, but possibly applicable - the signal pulse to the sensor is via a built in magnet in the actual hub ( not the bearing as I understand it, so if you have a faulty signal from the hub, then you will need to replace the whole hub, not just the bearing. I’ve used Febi hubs to good effect. If it were mine and I was going to that extent, then I would be renewing the probably-rusty back plate at the same time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Belinda, I think we have to be a bit more specific with the symptoms and the chronology of them. Was water pump changed 4 years ago as part of the scheduled cambelt change ( assume the cambelt has been changed?) Did you experience any coolant loss, or oil usage increase from that specific point? 3 years ago, coil pack changed - why? Again, did this mark a deterioration point? Does the temperature gauge actually indicate that the car is overheating at times? Oil leak = MOT failure if it is as you describe , and dependent where the leak site is (and would need to tell us) then this could be a rather big job in itself - although not necessarily. 200 miles/litre is a significant consumption - can you live with that if all other symptoms are eliminated, based on some Audi engines do have high oil consumption and causes are complex to resolve? Sorry about all the questions Belinda. Diagnostics? Personally I wouldn’t bother at this stage, but just entrust a diagnosis to a trusted local garage you can actually talk with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, It’s probably me, but I’m not really following the logic. ‘ I think I know what I’ll find when I get under the car, and I think I know what I’m going to buy’ - not quite following this. Indeed, if you are happy with ECP and their prices and discounts, then that’s great. It seems you are still at loggerheads to know the part number for the correct filter from them, but I can’t now suggest anything else other than repeating - find the part no. off your current one and cross reference to the correct one for the brand you choose. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, What site were you looking on for those prices? What would be useful would be to get whatever information you can off your existing battery. Info. would include aH rating, CCA figure (cold cranking amps) and a fair idea of the dimensions in mm. Be very careful to avoid any contact with a battery terminal if using a steel tape! Load test? Yes, maybe helpful, but late models (your?) can be fitted with a battery monitoring unit which does just that, and although the battery may be deemed reasonably OK via. a load (drop) test, it might not satisfy the limits that the BCU has and certain functions like stop/start will start to shut down, and warning light circuits also become troublesome. Obviously Chris, no one can diagnose the issue without the car, but on an economics basis, it can sometimes make sense to spend money on changing a battery rather than diagnostics. Worth trying EBay for prices, since the major suppliers tend to advertise there and offer free delivery via. that route. The price range you are getting sounds high unless this is a very large battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, These vehicles are controlled by so many electrical associated components, all of which demand near to peak performance to ensure they don’t throw up fault codes. Obviously it’s your call, but with an ‘unknown make’ battery which has been on the car for over two years, then my reaction would be to simply renew it - even as a hedge against future issue due to its deteriorating condition. Of course, you can spend money on expensive diagnostics, and probably replacing culprit components shown as fault codes. If it were mine, I would first treat it to a new Varta/Bosch battery with at least a 4 year warranty - available on line from specialist suppliers such as Tanya, Battery Megastore etc. - most delivering to your front door. Personally, I would not fit any alternative makes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Klodian, Carb. or fuel injection? If fuel injection, have you changed the coolant temperature sensor - if fitted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, It doesn’t really matter whether the current filter is VAG or not, but if it has a readable brand and number then you will have all you need for cross reference to find the correct equivalent Mann or Bosch one. ECP. Not sure what can be more convenient than ordering on line from other suppliers who more often than not, offer better prices, with parts delivered to your door - particularly in these troubled times. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, To your last point:- If you are asking for a recommendation on brands, just don’t use Crossland - now a bought out (by Europarts) brand name. If you want to move away from a genuine VAG one at discount, then I would only use Mann or Bosch. Can I ask why Euro Car Parts? Anything to do with their attractive discount prices on so called retail prices? If so, in fact, you can usually buy parts cheaper off their subsidiaries! Strange but true. ECP and their suitability listings? Like many other on line listings, these can be wildly off the mark. Correct one? Take the make and number off your existing one and then cross reference that to the equivalent Mann or Bosch one, or simply buy a genuine one mail order at discount by just quoting your reg. number. You could try Discount Audi Parts at Cardiff - there are more inc. TPS. One thing worth considering in the DIY activity - your labour is cheap! so invest in quality parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, Sorry to hear of your issues. Possibly a pessimistic view, but it’s looking less likely that this is an issue which has affected other owners, so perhaps unfortunately, the answer may not come from the forum. I can understand your frustration, but I think you have to persevere with an Audi dealership, and it may be worth considering trying another one. Re. courtesy cars and Covid - yes, possibly linked to an excuse, but possibly understandable, since ‘just need a clean’ between customers is probably an understatement - cars will need a deep clean, and as I understand it, one major manufacturer was delaying the return of company cars, since they had identified over 50 possible contamination sites on a typical vehicle - all of which would need a thorough cleaning before reuse by anyone else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris from the Homeland, How old is the battery and what make is it? Such symptoms can very often be due to simply a a substandard battery - now beyond its sell by date. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered if that was a considered diagnosis Kev, possibly based on previous experience, or perhaps just a valid stab at it? I would have thought that injector issues would have been accompanied by smoke from not fully combusted diesel. If it were mine Colin, I think I would be getting getting this looked at by a trusted local diesel specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Take it ‘looked everywhere’ includes having registered your want with on line breaker link sites such as Partsfinder ( there are others). Kind regards, Gareth.

What’s the connection between your non working air con. and the underlined Funday Holidays then Tebinn? You were in a confusion at Cleveland?! How confused are we!? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, It seems you have gone to a fair amount of effort to try to find this. One question I would ask is:- Is the creaking less evident in wet weather? Re penetrating oil - Um, wouldn’t have done that, due to adverse effects on rubber bushes etc., but.... Spraying with ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is a safer bet, and could be worth a re-try. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Rust in the system is usually as a result of poor coolant change management. What colour is the coolant you are using? Red? Re. thermostat and return to tank - ?, but on the basis of simple things first, then obviously changing the thermostat makes sense. Just to reiterate:- If the water pump is failing to pump, then the impeller must have become detached from the shaft, and if so, you would logically expect associated noise, or, the shaft has seized - again noises. Kind regards, Gareth.

I seriously would not attempt to renew the water pump until you have changed the thermostat - but your call.