Magnet

Hello Jason, So really it’s only the drive seat squab you need, and not the whole seat. Having said that, it’s likely that the cover can be swopped from a same style passenger seat. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, They do generally seem on the lower side of normal. Could you outline your procedure for testing the compression pressures please. Kind regards, Gareth.

Nothing happening with the links for me Chris. Please just list the figures. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sian, Can you please answer the questions and now include brands

Tyre profiles, pressures, XL or not Sian?

Have you got gates which are lockable? If not, you need to have a chain or whatever fitted to deter removing the car. Damage due to attempted theft can be more of a risk than the actual theft itself.

So did you get the battery efficiency checked Steve?

Thanks Martin, Could you please let the forum members know what price you want for the tyre please - rather than ‘offers’. Also if you would be prepared to post/courier it. Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Phil. ‘Nare-do-wells’ seldom worry about such things until they have damaged your car in an attempt to seal it, so does it really matter too much? Your car is still damaged. Garaged overnight?

Thanks Martyn, so what price are you asking for it?

‘Straight forward’ theft of the vehicle can also result in cloned number plates and resultant proof that the genuine vehicle from which is number has been duplicated, is indeed the genuine one - as experienced by a family member. My tip is to add a small non standard badge or similar to the back of the car as a means of proof of identity difference.

Welcome Phil, and apologies for the slow response. I guess the extent of additional security requirements depends on the car’s location during vulnerable nighttime periods etc. I would say a steering lock could be considered on a why-not basis - making the car less desirable to steal due to extra time needed. Of course, it does come with its inconvenience to use, but….. Kind regards, Gareth.

Price please Martyn, as opposed to ‘offers’ Many thanks, Gareth.

With no disrespect to the poster, I would suggest that anyone wishing to take an interest in following this up does so with the utmost caution.

Sorry to be a bit dismissive, but the thread is almost 4 years ago - he didn’t come back, and it’s highly, highly unlikely he now will.

Halfords comments are totally inadequate on this occasion, and in all honesty it was a bit remiss of you not to insist on a printed out report. Did you have the alternator output checked at the same time? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russell, Apologies for jumping in on this thread. The car will either be within, or marginally outside warranty. Did you buy it from an Audi dealer? If so and selling dealer are saying it’s normal, then best option is to take it to another Audi dealer or trusted independent. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m pretty confident it wouldn’t need to be.

Hello Helen, As I understand it, welding subframes is a no, no and unacceptable for MOT passes. I could be wrong, but if I were you I would be contacting VOSA directly and getting the official dictate, rather than the garage’s opinion, before spending any money in this direction. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, The dealer is certainly correct in the amount of work involved in replacing this cheap part. They are also likely to contact you during repair and suggest renewing clutch components as well - resulting in additional 4 figure sum being added. The question is - how severe is this leak? My feeling would be bordering insignificant at this stage, but I could be wrong. If it were mine:- I would get a second opinion from a trusted independent. I would question why you are having this 6 year old car serviced at a main dealer. Kind regards, Gareth,m

Life is full of coincidences. Rover 75? Had one of these with the BMW diesel engine - great. The one I had was a facelift Contemporary and was spec’d to the limited and finished in Seafrost, which I understand they only did in limited numbers in the pre- facelift. Ex MG/ Rover management car. I know exactly what you mean about the MG/R service book being part of the handbook - I have a low mileage MG TF. Jaguars? May I ask what you have Peter. I’ve a long association with this marque. Apologies for going off-thread, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

The section you have highlighted is an engine lifting bracket. I cannot see it would be necessary to have to remove this to correct an unacceptable operation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan from the Homeland. Apologies for jumping in on this, but I would suggest not overthinking this until you get the battery efficiency checked - Halfords stores will check that. Also get the alternator output checked at the same time. As just mentioned in another thread - come back to us if the battery tests substandard. Your wallet will thank you! Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Steve. Electric power steering? If so, first eliminate the battery as your source of the problem. Halfords stores can measure its efficiency for you. Your wallet will appreciate if you refer back to us if the battery is found to be substandard. Kind regards, Gareth.

Great Peter, Puts me in mind of a BMW I bought at auction at least a couple of decades ago - with no service history. Once home, the service book was found tucked under the passenger seat. Soon learnt after that to check all sort of places where rival bidders may have hidden them! Kind regards, Gareth.