Magnet

Hello Adrian, Are you really thinking of adding wheel spacers to a brand new car, and running the risk of voiding the warranty - certainly in terms of wheel bearings, drive shafts, suspension etc? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, It is likely the car service plan has been set on the low mileage annual scale, rather than the Longlife c18k or 18 months. It would be worthwhile having a serious talk with the dealer to ensure the warranty isn’t compromised, since Audi are understandably going to dictate (annual?) servicing requirements irrespective of the exceptional low mileage covered. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neil, You have invested substantial funds in this car, and the reasonable expectation should be you can sit back and enjoy it. You really shouldn’t be expected to have the responsibility of continually adding oil to this new prestige model, as if it were a worn out banger that you had just bought for a couple of hundreds of pounds! Not on in my book, but let’s hope it gets better. Not wishing to pry into your circumstances, but if there is any element of finance involved, then it would be wise to copy them in on all correspondence since technically they will have ownership/part ownership and indeed responsibility of it. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, In the absence of any other replies so far, perhaps some of the following may point you forward:- Temperature gauge -since you have confirmed the gauge is receiving voltage, then I would suspect a failed temperature sender unit. Exactly where it lives within the coolant system on your car? - but I would anticipate it to only have one wire feed to it on this age of car. The sender is usually brass bodied and possibly screwed into thermostat housing or similar. Take you have a Haynes workshop manual, and this should assist. Rev. counter. Does you model still retain an ignition distributor? If so, the rpm signal was usually picked up there, so worth cleaning all associated connections. Side rubbers? Perhaps you could elaborate on which ones you mean. Sources of parts? This age car is now under the umbrella of a ‘modern classic’ , and indeed there is a monthly publication by that name. It would be worth looking at specialist advertisers in there, and perhaps placing wanted adds for what you need. Other publications include ‘Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer, Classic Car Mart etc.etc. Might be worth popping in to your local longer established Audi dealer/s and having a chat with the parts department boys. This car is from the era when were stocking parts rather than obtaining them by overnight order, so...... you might be lucky. Anyway, worth fostering relationships in any case. What are you doing for insurance Matt? This age of car should qualify for classic car insurance, with the all important agreed value cover. If this isn’t your sole means of transport, then such cover is really a must have. Just let us know if this might be of any use. Good luck and enjoy the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Many thanks for the detailed explanation, and hopefully the logic of the importance of good body/chassis earths will now be clear. Only one point that I would clarify - ‘The negative lead (earth in my words) from the starter goes to the body......’. Is this something unique to the Q7, since generally - where the engine is earthed via. its own substantial earth lead, the starter will pick up a good earth from is substantially bolted connection to the engine? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello (sorry we don’t know your name). You have already answered your question by 120km or 5 years - whichever comes first. Since the belt was last changed 15 years ago, it should in theory now be due for its 3rd change since 2005, but indeed it hasn’t been changed at all! Now urgent. Rubber deteriorates with age, hence the time limit, and low mileage -in terms of stop starts can subject the belt to great stresses than higher mileage up-to-operating- conditions use. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I would be changing the auxiliary belt as well.

Hello Adian, I would be advertising my ‘wants’ in specialist publications such as Modern Classics, Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer - there are more. It might also be worth registering the wants on the car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - again there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Sorry to hear of your concerns with this car. The theory is that all engines can (in caps) be a expected to burn some oil during the bedding-in period, but in reality I feel it’s more of a cop-out statement than an actually expected fact. The problem you have here, is that you are going to be subjected to this ‘excuse’ probably until the car has covered at least 5,000 miles and probably more - if they can keep you on a string beyond that time point. To try to put an anticipated time scale on this, what will be your expected monthly average mileage over the coming months? In old English, this engine is currently consuming 1 pint of oil every c 680 miles, and this is -to say the least - inconvenient. In comparison, I have a couple of cars over 80 year old and not using that much! Anyway, if this were mine, I would be writing/e mailing the dealer principal - phone cals and visits would not be adequate - and informing him (opps, or her) of your concerns, and the fact that you will be monitoring the consumption over the next 2? months before deciding on a course of action. That could include rejecting the car, if the consumption doesn’t reduce. To me, it would be all important to record and date every check you carry out, and keep the dealer informed at the same time. Evidence will be king. Probably an unnecessary suggestion, but buy your top up oil (5/litres) - ask them to confirm the required grade via. the reg. no. - at the same dealer, and retain the receipt. I would be removing any excuse along the line ‘you’ve used the wrong oil’, so I would strongly advise against using any other oil than is supplied to you by the dealer. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Orlando, Many thanks for the additional information. Just a couple of things to consider:- How severe is the judder? Not really smooth, but tolerable, or worse than that? Does the invoice also confirm that the dual mass flywheel was also from the LUK brand? Have you contacted the garage who fitted this to gain their reaction? No offence meant re. the question of clutch-unfriendly driving style. As a bit of a downside, your journey pattern (just commuting?) does point to a higher than average number of stop, starts, and clutch operation, but having said that, the clutch should still sustain a good operation over your period of service. Re. A6 s having a bad reputation in respect of this issue- as we all appreciate, bad news travels faster than good, and although there are posts regarding similar issues, it would probably be unfair to conclude ‘they are all the same’. Sach clutches? Sorry Orlando, I cant offer experience of these being better or worse than LUK, since I’ve always used LUK to good effect, and not needed to try any other brand. My final stab at this would be to question the brand of DMF used, and to raise the issue which the garage, so that they can road test it and comment. Kind regards, Gareth.

Fair point Ian, but the MOT emission requirements would be controlled by the acceptable figures already in the VOSA system against your car registration. Also, since Audi fitted the car with a catalytic converter, it will have programmed the fuelling to correspond with that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I’m not disputing your claim that the car doesn’t have to have a catalytic converter since it is pre 1992, but I would raise the counter query that it might indeed still need to be fitted since the car was built with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ross, I’m sure the forum and others will be very interested in the ongoings and outcome of your very valid ‘taking them on’ intention. Perhaps you could keep the forum up to date on how you get on, since clearly, someone needs to get some positive outcome from this. Too long overdue. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Orlando, Sorry to hear of your issues. As you say, you should not experience such issues within less than 2 years of clutch life, but apologies, but the question must be asked as to how ‘heavy’ are you on clutch systems, since the car was OK when you bought it, yet had significant clutch issues a few months later? Only you will know whether your driving style is or isn’t biased towards being clutch-unfriendly. LUK clutches are normally the best alternative to the non-competitively priced Audi components. Judging by the price you paid, it would suggest you had the dual mass flywheel replaced at the same time, so all should still be well at this length of service. Could you confirm from your invoice? Incidentally, what mileage have you covered in this time, and what is your normal journey type in the London area? Anything better than LUK? I would say, they are more than good enough for normal driving, but there would be alternatives towards ‘competition’ clutches if your driving style warrants that. Perhaps you could let us know on the question points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the additional comments Ben. OK so the clutch appears not to have failed by gradual wear, but by some catastrophic failure of one of the components - probably the clutch release bearing assembly. Coolant sensor - garage should have noticed this, and this, together with the ‘low oil’ warning ( real or sensor issue) would lead me to question their necessary attention to detail. Of course, you must return the car to them, but if it were mine, I would be looking for another garage to do any subsequent servicing/repairs. They will also need to deal with the wheel sensor issue. It sounds as if your battery may be the original ( check for Audi associated labelling). If it is, then again if it were mine, I would be just biting the bullet and replacing it with a good quality( in caps) one, since it’s likely to let you down, even if it isn’t the direct cause of your stop/start and warning light issues. I only buy Varta/Bosch batteries and go with their ‘at least 4 year’ warranty quality ones. I buy on line at best price/service from specialists such as Battery Megastore (via. EBay to get free postage), Tanya Batteries, etc. - there are more, and I don’t have any connection. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, Sorry to hear of your catalogue of issues. I’ll have a stab at commenting on what I recall of your listed problems:- Any connection between new brakes and subsequent clutch failure? That really would be a new one on me! Re. the clutch failure - did this occur as an issue with the pedal (say failure to return after being depressed) or was the clutch slipping? Low coolant level light - why didn’t the servicing garage comment on this? Probably as simple as a faulty level switch on the reservoir. Low oil level - take it this car is old enough to have a dipstick? If so, does this indicate that the level is low on checking the oil when cold? Traction control - could be a poor connection on one of the ABS sensors on the wheels, or indeed a damaged connection/sensor when working on the brakes. Would need to diagnose which is the offending wheel sensor. Stop/start and various warning light issues. How old is the battery? Has its efficiency been tested. These issues can often be traced to a substandard battery. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, You will spend a fortune on having a ‘full rebuild’ carried on on your engine - far, far in excess of the car’s value, and of course, you answer your own question by realising so called reconditioned engines can be of highly variable quality. The other problem you have via. this route is that there are now comparatively few engine reconditioners in business - most have ceased trading due to the longevity of current engines, and those that are in business tend to concentrate on rebuilding ‘classic’ car engines. I would still consider that your best option is to buy a secondhand engine - or indeed scrap the car, if you are not too happy with that route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello NYC, The original poster hasn’t returned to the forum for almost 2 years. I think you stand more change of getting a reply by sending him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Yes, you can soldier on with adding oil to this engine - at the approx. rate of 1000 miles covered it will burn approx 3 litres of oil. Take it the grade is 5w 30 ? If so you can look for the cheapest oil in say a 20 litre pack and just keep adding it! Inconvenient? Yes. Expensive? could be worse! As I see it, this is likely to effect the emissions for the MOT ( take it you were conveniently given a new MOT on purchase?) so you have to bear that in mind in under 6 months or so. You will of course know the economics of this, but it might be time to pass it on to WBAC. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Sorry to hear of your issue. It does sound as if the work required on your engine would render if beyond economical repair. If it were mine, I would be seeking a secondhand engine as a replacement, and if would be worth listing your ‘want’ on the car breaker link system such as Partsfinder (there are others). All linked in breakers will have sight of what you are looking for, and will respond to you directly if they have a suitable engine. Kind regards. Gareth.

Hello Martin, Jason joined and last visited within 1week, and that was over a year ago. Maybe better if you PM him. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, This problem can be typical of injector issues, and this would be my first port of call. Guess it also smells of diesel and annoys the neighbours! If you are taking it to an ‘ordinary garage’ then I think you could be in for a fair degree of mess around. If it were mine, I would be investing in an hour or so of the services of a trusted local diesel specialist. It would be worth enquiring for recommendations at your local taxi rank, since these chaps generally still use diesels and depend on a good economic turn around when things go wrong. Self diagnosis? I wouldn’t bother. There is a simple basic test for injectors, but you need specialist equipment. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vivian, It seems it’s not that uncommon for springs to break these days. Generally, the coils are of thinner cross section that they used to be and significantly hardened. Generally it’s better to replace as a pair, and I’m sure someone on here will be able to advise whether it’s worth updating your springs since you are towing loads. Kind regards, Gareth.

What engine Iain? Kind regards, Gareth.

Heel Chris, Sounds good progress. Cambelt? Good move. Have you decided what quality parts are to be used? All important, since local garages just tend to use whatever is on ‘best offer’ at their supplying motor factors. If not using genuine VAG parts (available mail order at discount) the garage are likely to tell you they use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts, but this can often hide a multitude of sins. Then there is the question of the all important water pump. It it were mine, I would not use any other pump than a genuine VAG one - no exceptions. Too many reported catastrophic issues with early failure of aftermarket pumps. If your garage is going down the route of an aftermarket belt and tensioner, then the only make I would use would be Gates, but I wouldn’t use their water pumps - for the sake of a small saving. It’s great to have the belt assembly and water pump renewed, but just leaving at the garage and collecting it, is a bit like saying you want a new pair of trainers - and off they go and supply you with a pair they have just bought at the local outdoor market. Might be worth thinking twice and getting a good job done once. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stewart, Sounds a great pointer. I wondered if this is just A6, and the reason for asking was that a family member has an early 2015 A4 Avant, and has experienced poor/lack of air con. Issue was diagnosed as a faulty magnetic clutch on the compressor, but the mechanic didn’t want to change the clutch part - in favour of a complete compressor. With Audi wanting £1000 ( with discount) for a compressor, the car was fitted with a Brand x replacement. Upshot, sort of cools air a bit, but does not consistently chill and it. Diagnosis is now an unreliable valve in the new compressor. Just wondering Stewart:- Do you know if the sensor is common to the A4 as well, and if so, and the sensor goes faulty, can it result in cooler, but not chilled air, as well as not cooled at all? Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.