Magnet

Hello ? , Its unlikely your 13 year old vehicle is still running on its original battery, but you don’t tell us. ‘..Am I only dealing with a bad battery’? The only way of assessing whether the battery is serviceable - or not- is to get it tested. Anything else is simply assumption until that has been checked. Halfords should be able to test it for you. If it proves to be unserviceable then of course, they sell batteries, but I’ve seldom found them competitive on price. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back on this Jamie. I notice you might intend to change the battery anyway - personally, I wouldn’t - I would go through the charging and testing procedure first, and only change it if it proves to be at fault. Come back to the forum when you’ve done that, and then we can address your hot starting issue. Meanwhile, does the car appear to be heavier on fuel than it has been? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed D for sharing your experiences for the benefit of other - much appreciated, and glad you got it fixed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Sean, The original poster joined, had advice within 24 hrs, and has not returned to the forum since 24 hrs after that, so we have no idea whether he followed the advice, leave alone whether it worked, so many thanks for sharing your experience for the benefit of others. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mo, I think you are being very wise in querying this. Does it have a belt or a chain? Don’t know, but ask your nearest Audi dealer (I would ask this question of the parts dept.) If is has a belt, would it be normal to have been replaced at 40k miles or 4 years? I would believe no - it would have been changed early. If it is a belt, and you’ve been told it’s been changed, then simply ask for sight of the invoice or a copy of the print out from the VAG system. That should sort the sales-men from the sales-boys! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello D. Since plastic welding on its own has proved inadequate, then it suggests to me that the fracture would benefit from reinforcing internally with a bush following a thorough cleaning and degreasing - the bush and the original pipe then being glued together with a resin glue such as Araldite. I would have thought that if this was properly engineered then the repair should be adequate at least as a temporary solution while you hunt for a replacement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Many thanks for keeping the forum updated on the progress on this - in reality, very few do, so it’s refreshing when this feedback is received. Glad your issue is now sorted. I’ve just had a quick Google on this fault code, and there appears to be quite a few references to this VAG code and it’s association with transmission issues, but didn’t check whether it included your valve body. I guess it depends who you originally talked with when you said ‘..Audi said it isn’t one of their codes....’ Dealers are no doubt wary of giving out such information based on the likelihood of come-back if it turns out that particular component proves to be not at fault. Possibly a cynical viewpoint, but owners can put all their faith in such fault codes and their relationship to the particular component being at fault. To me, these have to be taken with an element of ‘cause and affect’ where a component may be signalled up as being the problem, but it’s another faulty component which is feeding it a faulty signal. Anyway, you problem is sorted and the forum is a wiser place due to your feedback. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello D? Can we take it this part is no longer available via VAG? If not:- Have you tried the breakers on-line link systems such as Partsfinder (there are others) where you register your want, and any breakers who have it, then reply directly to you. Alternatively, if this plastic part has fractured - as the photo seems to indicate - have you investigated the possibility of having it repaired via. plastic welding? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, I’m sorry hear of your issue with this virtually new Q8, and I‘m afraid I cannot offer you any experience of this model. However, it would reasonably sound to be unexpected and indeed unacceptable? - on a vehicle of such price and expected quality. You say you have been back to the (supplying, I guess?) dealer, and the opinion there is that it is normal. I wonder if you have tried another dealer - if not, that would be my next port of call before escalating this issue to a higher level if necessary. Let’s hope other owners may offer you their experiences. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wesley, I’m rather lost by your comment that recommending getting assistance from a locksmith - at the time- is/was not suitable at all. Strange.

Hello Cliff, I drive old vehicles during the non winter months, and have got used to anticipation- braking, or sending the cars a post card! To me the A3 has always instilled confidence in normal braking where I tend to start braking early and changing down. On occasions when more rapid braking has been necessary then again I’ve never felt insecure with it - thank goodness! I cant really say I’ve found the servo assistance on this one to be excessive, but perhaps such things may vary from car to car ? The aftermarket brand we fitted to this one was Apec. I can’t really argue about their quality, but can confirm that - in our case - they just didn’t provide the same braking confidence that the genuine VAG pads did prior - and after replacing, so personally I wouldn’t recommend them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, What make pads are you trying to order from where? I take it not from an Audi dealer. If a three letter word on-line motor factors offering impressive discounts off so called retail prices, then it might be worth checking what others are charging without discounts! Often cheaper. I can only go from personal experience of our A3 which when new had impressive braking. It was decided to use aftermarket pads at the first pad change, but after bedding in, the braking efficiency of theses pads were no where near a match for the originals. Such was the difference, that they were removed shortly after and replaced with genuine VAG ones. I appreciate we all like to ‘buy on price’, but often you get just what you pay for at a cheaper price. If you buy from Audi, then you generally do no have to worry about exactly what pads/callipers are fitted - their system will record that. If you are genuinely interested in buying genuine VAG pads then please come back and I can give you a contact for such at discount if you don’t already have one. Kind regards, Gareth

A personal view Rob:- I don’t think you are maximising your sales potential with the style of your advert, and particularly the bit about ‘...make me an offer...’ Now ‘make me an offer around £x ‘ sounds far more accommodating. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dyfed from the Homeland, I think you are wise to consider the condition of the car at the handover point. There have been horrendous tales of ‘charges for damage’. I would anticipate they will charge you for refurbishing the one damaged alloy. They would most likely have tried to sell you a wheel (and tyre) damage insurance to cover such things. General bodywork:- I would say that from your description you should be OK there. Tyres:- You raise a very valid point here, and with 1K miles of tread left, it sounds that they are really on the borderline of being illegal. From their point of view (rightly?) they can argue that they must ensure that the car must have a minimum of three mm of remaining tread at the point of sale, so it would not surprise me that they will want some allowance for your worn tyres. I think you have to look at this Dyfed from the point of view, that you wouldn’t buy it from them with tyres with your current tread levels. Let’s hope this is a pessimistic view. Mr. Sinclair’s group? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alexander, ’...Roughly £550... does not sound a good start to me, since it is obviously an estimate rather than a quotation. ‘I’m guessing Audi will charge me a hella lot more’. As you say Alexander, that is a guess, and if it were mine, I would most certainly be seeking quotations from a couple of local Audi dealers to be sure, and as I said, they sometimes have offers on such major servicing items. I wouldn’t be afraid of asking if they have any offers - after(in caps) you have their initial quotation! You will not have any concerns about the parts used via. that route, but check it I’ll include the water pump renewal. Via. an independent? Many will only use VAG parts, but. More competitive price is fine, if there is a guarantee that it’s like for like on genuine parts. If this were mine, I would also be changing the auxiliary belt (unless there is service confirmation that it has been changed) since if this subsequently fails, it can wrap itself around the crank pulley for example, and cause the cam belt to jump a tooth. Oops moment! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the extra detail Alexander. Sounds good, and the original handbook pack is a always a good first port of call. However, the original 9 year old recommendation might well have changed now in light of more recent experience. Have you managed to discuss the parts-to-be-used situation with the garage who is going to do this for you? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Maris, Etch primer must always be used on non ferrous (non mild steel) metal, so yes, you should use it on alloy wheels. You can also use it on steel to achieve a better adhesion - but not essential. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alexander, There will always be a maximum mileage, and equally important a time limit in terms of years , so the schedule will advise x miles or x years - whichever comes first. If this were mine, I would be calling in to my local Audi dealer and asking them to confirm whether it has been done or not to set your mind at rest re. ‘... it looks as though it hasn’t been done..’ Even if their system does not record it being done, it is not necessarily confirmation that it hasn’t, since it could have been done by an independent or local garage. Unless you have confirmation it has been done, then I would be agreeing with the advice already given, ( although I don’t have any evidence to support the 60k mileage limit) but would be confirming with the Audi dealers what the current recommended schedule actually is. Do you intend to do this job yourself, or get it done for you? If the latter, then it would be worth checking costings with the dealer since they sometimes have offers on this work. If you are going to DIY it, or more importantly get a local garage to do it, then in my book the quality of parts used is as important as getting the job done. If not using (my recommendation) genuine Audi parts, then the only (in caps) alternative I would use would be Gates, but I would not (in caps) use their water pumps. It has to be a no-exception dealer only water pump in my book. If you want a contact for genuine main dealer parts at discount then just let me know. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi sounds a good starting point Josh, and if it turns out you don’t like the price, you could then try the breaker’s link on line system - such as Partfinder (I think it’s called) whereby you advertise your want for the then known-name part. Kind regards, Gareth.

Coach painting to the great finishes usually obtained - now that is an art Cliff. I’ve read quite a bit about it many years ago, but have never test my (lack of!) skill with it. Good on you for having done so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Maris, It’s unusual for this panel to have deteriorated to this condition in such a relatively short space of time. Some deterioration is not unusual, but the extent and severity is. If the panel is aluminium as you suspect, then the essential paint base coat onto the bare aluminium would need to be an etch primer not an ordinary primer. This primer does what it suggests, and actually adheres to the bare aluminium by acid etching into the surface. Subsequent paint coats can be via conventional primers, followed by the requisite number of coats of satin black. Of course, this is not the time of the year to do painting unless you have a garage, and even then the panel should be warmed up with a hair dryer. Some skill is necessary to arrive at an acceptable finish. Preparation back to bare metal is essential, as is careful masking to avoid marking the glass and rubber during preparation. Kind regards, Gareth. Sorry Cliff for repeating your advice while writing my response.

Hello Steven, I sympathise with your regret of parting with this car. DVLA used to pass on correspondence to current owners for a small fee (but not disclosing current ownership) but not any longer. If you have reason to believe it is currently/was in Bexhill on Sea, then it would be worth contacting the local weekly publications there, and placing a notice in the paper - along lines of ..’previous owner wishes to contact current owner’. Could be worth a try. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, Sorry I cant help you directly with the fuse location, particularly since you say the handbook doesn’t mention it. Strange. Can I take it the HRW doesn’t work, and you want to check the fuse? If so, a common failure point is a break/damage to the rear screen element which can be checked for continuity with a meter. Not sure if this helps, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, The original poster joined over 4years ago and last visited the forum just 2 days after he joined. I might be worth trying to send him a PM in the hope of getting some response. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies Nathan, Hadn’t noticed the car is virtually new, but I would not automatically guarantee the breather isn’t kinked? As I see it Nathan, you simply do not have to concern yourself with the reasons why - just request they put it right. Kind regards, Gareth.