Magnet

Hello Alex, I cannot confirm your car should be running on 5w/30, and my advice would be to consult your handbook to confirm, or otherwise. Regarding the servicing schedule:- Are you going to service this yourself, or have the servicing done for you? If you are not going to do it, are you going to get it done at a main dealer, independent, or a local garage? Appreciating SteveQ recommended using GM oil back in 2017, I have stuck with the VAG (once recommended/still recommended?) Quantum Longlife 3 oil, which as its name suggests, is the oil used on a Longlife schedule. However, I change it every year - doing around your anticipated 8K miles. In view of the hard life your vehicle is going to get, I would recommend you do the same. This oil is available from a number of EBay sellers, including Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff (no connection). Filters? If not using VAG, I only use Mann or Bosch - without exception. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, OK. I’m now guessing the brake light switch must be OK since the high level light is working, but .......more than one brake light switch? Probably a daft question, but there is something in my mind about sort of multi functions on brake light switches - almost certain to be on automatics for example. Way forward:- ‘..... happy to pay treble time to get to the bottom of this....’ so invest in a couple of hours of services of a trusted local auto electrician. Alternative (temporary botch) - pick up a new feed from the working high level brake light. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathan, Couple of points here:- Nozzle not going all the way in- can be aggravated by distorted (belled out) nozzles on the fuel station pump. One of our supermarkets just didn’t seem to want to renew them even though most cars now have close tolerances at the nozzle entry point to prevent mis - fuelling. Guess this doesn’t apply in your case since you mention you have tried multiple stations. Other possibility:- kinked breather hose to the filler neck. Tried rotating the position of the trigger on the pump i.e. say 6, 9, 12 , 3 o’c? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Can we take it you have checked for good earths at the rear brake light units? If good:- You say you have checked all wiring for breaks - including stripping back the flexible rubber sleeving section where the wiring harness passes from the body, into the boot/hatch? Favourite place for breaks/partial breaks due to years of flexing, so always a suspect area. Could you let us know how you get on? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Double-time charges may apply for Sunday advice!

Hello Jamie, Since you having (occasional) symptoms akin to battery failure, then the first port of call in an investigation is to have the battery checked. Process of elimination. Either charge the battery overnight, or take it for a 20 mile run, to ensure it should be fully charged, then get the battery efficiency checked - Halfords will do this. If the battery is found to be suspect - would I buy a replacement from Halfords?? I always buy either Varta or Bosch (same) batteries at competitive prices from on-line quick delivery battery specialist suppliers - not from three worded on line motor factors offering high discounts on inflated ‘retail’ prices! If the battery proves to be serviceable then let us know, or better still, let us know anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Not sure on your particular engine, but believe the thermostat comes with the housing from Audi. Personally I would not fit an aftermarket one. Contacting your local dealer will confirm and give you a price. I have bought genuine VAG parts at discount from Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors). Might we worth a ring once you know the retail price - they do mail order. Could also try TPS for a comparison price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Douglas, Thanks for joining and enquiring on the forum. Hopefully you may have some positive response. Meanwhile, it would be worthwhile advertising your want in classic car publications, such as Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer, Practical Classics - and many more. You could also try the on line car breakers link website such as Parts Finder ( I think it’s called). There are more. These websites pass your requirements to all linked breakers, and if they have the parts then they contact you directly. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Darren, Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear you are having issues so soon after owning the car, and that the diagnosis appears variable. I take it you purchased the car directly off the registered keeper (how long had he owned it?) rather than a used car dealer. I think it would be useful for you to take advice on how the car matches the advertisement description, since even with a private sale the vehicle has to be a described - hence seller’s backside-covering descriptions such as ...’ Starts, drives, stops..’ . Of course, common sense normal wear and tear has to be considered in respect of the fact that it is now c13 years old, but you would expect it to at least be drivable, unless the issued receipt - and therefore conditions of sale - stated something along the lines of ...Sold as seen, tried and accepted’. This is likely to influence the importance of the advertised description, but should not negate it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tristan, There was a similar question posted no more than a couple of weeks ago ? Worth having a look at that. Effectively, to do it properly, the answer is no, unless you increase the wheel diameter. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, To me, the next obvious must-do move would be to get the actual pressure reading assessed on a gauge. You don’t tell us the make of the replacement sensor. If it was anything other than a genuine VAG or Bosch, I would not be jumping to conclusions that it cannot be that because it is new! But the actual oil pressure reading will guide you on this. If indeed the actual pressure is indeed measured as being low then obvious culprits would be the oil pump, and possibly aggravated by bearing wear if the pressure has been low for some time. Let’s look at this with a positive result which shows the oil pressure to be acceptable. Culprits:- sensor (as mentioned), bad connection/wire break which can manifest itself by the engine torque movement aggravating the bad connection/ partial break. Coolant loss:- worth having the system pressure tested incase excess pressure is being generated, and obviously looking for leaks. It seems there is a dye which can be added to your (red?) coolant which assists with leak detection. Haven’t used it myself. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I think you have answered your own question here. ‘....Bit expensive...’ and that would just be for the parts. Work involved and practicality if you were prepared to absorb the parts cost?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Good luck. Keep everything recorded in writing Dawn. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, If this were mine, my next move would be to get the coolant system pressure tested to see if it’s over pressurising. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the extra information Stuart. Sorry to bore, but make of oil sensor and oil filter? No smoke when hot and revs. held at a steady 2000rpm for 2 mins. then. Good idea to change the coolant reservoir cap - always a cheap eliminator. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good point Cliff, but I must admit that it’s location would be a bit of a mystery to me on this engine. The old vehicles - of which I have a couple even older than me! - now that’s easy. Oil filters and release valves? As I understand it oil filters were - still are? - fitted with a sort of one way valve to prevent the oil housed in them leaking back when the engine is not running, and this was really essential when some filters were fitted ‘upside down’ on the engine. Stuart has told us he changed the oil. Filter?? but guess so. Quality of oil filter ?? Yes, I know I have a ‘thing’ about only using good quality parts, bred from a distrust of some brands (once very reputable brand names) coming in from well east of the Thames estuary! Many thanks Cliff, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Very strange. Could you tell us the make of the replacement oil pressure sensors. I now appears your problem has escalated to also loosing coolant. Could you run the smoke test suggested under a recent post ‘Losing Coolant’ and let us know how you get on. As a priority, I would advise getting the actual oil pressure checked on an independent gauge by your trusted local garage. If indeed the oil pressure is low, you run the risk of wrecking the engine by continuing to use it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sound and helpful advice David, but unfortunately the original poster hasn’t revisited the forum since Saturday - the same day as he joined! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dawn, ’.....to get my deposit back help! ‘ The best advice I can give you Dawn is to take advice -without delay - from your local Citizen’s Advice. They should be able to advise you on how to reject the vehicle on the basis of it being unsuitable for purpose. Make sure you take a documented copy all the dealings you have had regarding your discontents and their failure to resolve the issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Welcome to the forum. Are you saying the warning only comes on when the revs exceed 1600rpm? Normally such issues are more likely to occur at low revs. Also, can we take it the warning only comes on some time after the coolant has reached normal temperature? kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Conrad. Is it really worth a 200 mile round trip to view the car, or indeed to commit to an interest to buy it? The trade seller has to offer a basic guarantee, but would it be of any use to you if you have to return it on a 200 mile trip to get any warranty work done? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ryan.

Ask for the contact details of the last registered keeper and talk with them to get the full story. This request is likely to be met with ‘ can’t - Data Protection Act .. and all that’ . You then have to make your decision. You don’t tell us (with image evidence ) of keeper ...... ‘acquired vehicle on date ....’ EML on? OK, but there are many many other aspects to check before deciding to go ahead, and without this full inspection, it’s going to be very difficult (impossible?) for anyone to offer meaningful advice without actually having the car to view. If Its considered to be cheap, then why not invest some of the ‘savings’ on an inspection by say a local -to -the-seller independent specialist? If the seller is reluctant to allow this? ....... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Natalie, Since the car is under warranty, I would simply book this in to the (supplying?) Audi dealer to get this corrected. The car is under warranty, so personally, I would not be allowing anyone to work on it, otherwise Audi might - quite rightly - maintain that whatever work has been carried out has indeed resulted in the problem! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Conrad, Trade sale or private? How long has the last recorded keeper owned it? Whatever is stated in the advert in terms of history ...e.g. ‘previous work been done by Audi’ etc. - ask the seller to provide you with an image of that evidence. This is your important starting point. Unable or unwilling to do so?? Think twice, or 3 times! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Petrol or diesel? Mileage? How much coolant is it using in say 100 miles? Possible head gasket? Often generally considered as being the offender, but..... No emulsion in oil does not exclude that possibility, since the gasket can go between the cylinder and a waterway and the majority of coolant is expelled out through the exhaust. Simple check:- Take the car for at least a 5 mile run to ensure coolant, oil and exhaust are all hot, then rev. to 2000rpm and hold steady at that rev. for at least 2 minutes, while observing whether there is any excessive (white) smoke from the exhaust. Dependent on all above, it should be possible to move on with other tests. Kind regards, Gareth.