Magnet

Hello Thomas, Thanks for coming back on this. The ABS is signalled (certainly on the rear wheels) by a very weak magnet set into the rear hubs - too weak to be detected by attracting a piece of steel in my experience, but there anyway. This ‘magnetic signal’ is picked up by the attached ABS sensor. If this magnetic signal becomes too weak, then it obviously affects the whole ABS system, and technicians will tell you it’s a ‘bearing (failure) issue’, although the bearing itself is likely to be serviceable - but the bearing hub’s inbuilt magnetic field is the problem - and results in the need to renew the whole hub. If the bearing ‘has damaged the pick up sensor’ (as you have been told) then the bearing will have been completely shot and you would most certainly have noticed it’s protesting noises. Personally, I would go with my above explanation, but.... ‘Damaged pick up sensor’’ will mean they will replace that sensor although it could be serviceable. Cost of new hub and sensor and fitting?? Not cheap, but as I recall, this will be warranty work, and if carried out at main dealer then no need to worry about whether aftermarket parts might be used. 5 year old car suffering from weak ABS hub signal? Bit unusual? Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Many thanks for sharing your unfortunate experience with Dunlop tyres. As you will probably have gathered, serious tyre issues have been reported back over 5 pages of posts, yet remarkably no one has reported on the outcome of seeking legal advice, or any success, or otherwise, of getting the motoring press to sit up and take some independent action. It could be said that you were ‘lucky’ in the way this issue came to light in your case - at least everyone, and all bits of metal are in one piece. ‘Set of new tyres for safety’ - most certainly a wise decision. Many thanks again Tom. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, I will have a go at helping, but whether it turns out to be of any use .....?? ‘Changed CTS’...... cars of this period were often fitted with a coolant temperature sensor ( which talked to the ECU to control fuel mixture etc.), and a coolant temperature sender which signals the actual coolant temperature to the temperature gauge. Are you sure you have changed the right one, if your model is indeed fitted with two? ‘Changed thermostat....’ What make? - since aftermarket ones can be unreliable. Apologies but Climatronic menu is new to me, so I wonder if you have actually tried running the car with it plugged in to live data so you can get an accurate (confirmation) of the believed fluctuating temperatures. You mention you had a ‘low coolant light’ warning, yet the car doesn’t use any coolant. So this sounds like another issue. The description of the symptoms would point to thermostat issues, so it would be interesting to have your answer to -what make. Probably nothing to do with it, but a faulty coolant reservoir pressure cap can give rise to issues, but this normally leads to coolant loss due to the system not retaining pressure. Of course, temperatures up to 121 degrees could only be maintained via. the system being under a relatively high pressure. Last simple test would be feel the radiator core once the car is up to a reasonable temperature to see if there is any significant variation in the temperature across the core - which might point to partially blocked core issues. Hopefully no need to mention the safety issues with carrying out this test since fans can run/start up with the engine switched off. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for raising the question David, I thought black wheels were now rather ‘last year’, and grey was becoming the ‘must have’ wheel colour for the 20s. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sarah, To me, it looks promising that you may be able to get at the bonnet catch mechanism if the plastic undertray is removed and the car is raised on a lift to allow a long firm stick - or whatever to be poked up on the fan side of the radiator. I would not like to attempt this on my back, so it looked old like it’s best left to a trusted local garage. We are assuming that the bonnet bouncing while attempting to pull the bonnet release has been attempted by the two person method, and you have checked that the problem is not at the release pull end. Kind regards, Gareth.

Fair point re tow start, but you didn’t tell us that before! Detail is all important. As I see it you now have to determine whether you have a spark at the plugs which is good enough to start the car, and/or a supply of fuel, and get back to us - assuming of course you haven’t already checked these points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robin, Dave has come up with the answer, and if it’s not the conventional torx splines, but a ‘special’, then obviously it will mean buying the appropriate splined socket. Would be worth nipping down to BMF - Bridgend Motor Factors - to see if they have this ‘VAG special’ size/ number of splines’ socket on stock, or could get it. Also worth looking in the Draper catalogue (non line?) to see if they list it. I would most certainly agree with Dave when he says don’t attempt this with anything other than the correct tool - bolts would have been put in with a Locktite type coating and can be reluctant to come out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Causes could of course be numerous. First check would be battery. Even though the car cranks over (enthusiastically?) doesn’t mean the voltage will stay high enough to start the car while the starter motor is cranking and taking a high current through the battery. You will need to measure the voltage at the battery when the starter is cranking over to confirm the voltage remains close to 12v. Voltages down to below 11v could result in the car not starting. Just one possibility to eliminate first. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sarah, Sounds like you have tried the obvious ‘tried and tested’ method and failed. Strange since you say you can hear cable movement around the bonnet catch. As you are probably now aware, getting anywhere near the the bonnet catch is a right headache - easy if you can remove the grille/ whole front bumper, but.... We have the same model year so will have a look at the what can be removed ‘from the outside’ with the bonnet locked. Will attempt to do this over the weekend if the weather improves. If it were mine, I would be nipping it around to a helpful local garage and asking them to get it on the ramp and see how accessible the catch may be once the undertray is removed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Robin, Great. Apologies, but I get twitchy about working on the electric handbrake systems! Not sure what the set up is on yours, but if not obvious, the bolts can be ‘hidden’ under rubber blanking plugs. If so, they are generally 7mm recessed Allen key headed. If (in caps) this is correct you will of course need an Allen key socket since a normal Allen key is unlikely to shift it, but likely to cause damage to the bolt head! Sorry if all of this isn’t correct, and hopefully someone else will respond. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robin (from up the road), I’m sorry I cannot help you and apologies for not being familiar with your model, but can I ask - does it have an electric handbrake, or the older mechanical one? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ain, Unfortunately you don’t give us a lot of information to assist with an explanation for why you currently consider the grip to be substandard. Information such as the brand of tyres currently fitted, whether the tyre makes are matching ( at last on the same axle) and hopefully on all four wheels, thread depth, and the obvious confirmation that the tyres pressures have been checked according to the specified pressures, and above all, your typical driving style - which appears to be ‘enthusiastic’. Even from there, I think this UK forum may still struggle to to give you sound advice, since road holding issues here, are normally associated with wet roads in our typical climates. Pardon my ignorance, but I am guessing that discontents with road holding in Dubai are not under these conditions, and are more likely to be under sandy conditions which Trevor refers to in his reply. I doubt if this is going to be of any help, but our older A3 has mainly been run on Michelin (OE fitment at the time) and have never disappointed -road holding wise- although they do appear to get noisier as they wear. It is latterly being run on Continental Contact 5 which I’m judging will not give the same wear mileage. Both these brands have not disappointed road holding wise when driven in an ‘ordinary’ style. You mention ‘continental primacy’, but sorry, my experience points to Primacy being a name used by Michelin, and of course Continental has its own ‘names’ such as the above mentioned ‘Contact’. Of course, tyre branding may be different in the UK. Trevor mentioned lower profile tyres, but fitting such will effect ride quality, and if you do decide on this, you will have to find out whether wider tyres will safely fit your wheels - and the car. Or you will have to fit larger diameter wheels, since the overall outside diameter of wheel and tyres must remain the same, to avoid gearing differences. Kind regards, Gareth.m Apologies, Ain, but as an A3 owner, there is little more I can add. Hopefully others might be able to help further. Kind regards, Gareth.m

One thing at a time Simon. Can you update us on the rear wipe situation, which as the first problem you mentioned? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, A couple of thing here which may help before spending money:- MOT expiry date? Is the car now road legal with you in terms of tax and insurance and MOT? Did you buy it from a dealer or privately? If a dealer, then return the car for it to be sorted. If private purchase, the car has to be as described , so there may be some avenue for redress there. If it were mine and it was road legal - and in knowledge it has not been used for some time (how long?) - then I would be adding some fresh fuel and the appropriate Redex additive, driving it reasonably quietly for at least a few miles, before giving it a good, reasonably high revving run for at least 20 miles, i.e. an ‘Italian tune’. Personally, I would not be using supermarket fuel at this stage, but.... Continue to use the car in a well-driven style for at least 100 miles to let it find its legs. Hopefully the light may well behave itself following this, but if not, that would be the time to get the fault code/s diagnosed. Perhaps you could come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, Part way there then! ABS system? In my experience, the (earlier only?) ABS units themselves were not without problems, and at one time you could buy part-units where the valve block section could be replaced as part of the original unit. Things have moved on and these units are now generally trouble free?? Don’t know. ABS and individual wheel sensors? ‘Wheel speed signal...........’. Sounds a bit vague as a diagnosis to me. Which wheel?? Wheel sensor issue? Or weak built- in magnetism (on rear hubs?) which signals the sensors. Watch this space then. Thanks for keeping the forum informed Thomas. ’..don’t want to hand the car back..’ For what it means, I would be of the same mind - it’s sortable without cost you. Inconvenience of course, but..... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, It would be worth checking the wiring harness in the flexible section which links the body to the boot/hatch. Carefully peel back the outer flexible covering and check the individual wires, which often harden and can break following 18 years of opening and closing. Simple and worthwhile place to start your investigation. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ben. Just wonder if the safe application of some heat may free them up and sort the problem out for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

What I’m not certain about here Stuart is whether the EML (and glow plug coil - it is diesel??) comes on as they should before you start it, but goes out when it starts - as it should - i.e. all is well in that department. Sorry but I’m not understanding your description. It would appear that your vibration is occurring at a certain rev. point ( different speeds in different gears). Could you confirm what actual revs. this problems shows up? Audi dealer? Have you tried an independent in your area, or better still - if it is indeed a diesel - a trusted local diesel specialist. Neither should charge you much to give an opinion on the problem. Perhaps you could fill in the detail for us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Thomas. That saves the worry of why you have been moving towards a full set of Christmas tree warning lights. Audi dealers eh!? Good isn’t it? Sometimes the forum gets it right, sometimes wrong, but we have to try to fathom these things out without the offending vehicle. Remember, if we are wrong at least we are cheap! Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Sounds a nice idea, and I think (in caps) that they may be a simple direct fitment into the front bumper recess, following removal of the current black plastic ‘blanking’ grilles, but I wouldn’t be sure. Might be worth double checking this before being too concerned about pre wired connections. Apologies if you have already double checked that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, Are you talking track rod ends or the (normally non wearing) track rods themselves? If TRE s then these are usually renewed on pairs, and are frequently threaded such that one has a LH thread, and it’s counterpart having a conventional RH thread. In the absence of specific data (which of course might come from the forum) I think I would be tempted to buy a pair of available TREs (if this is what you are after) if not too expensive and suck it and see. Another possible worth-a-try contact could be David Kingerely over in Derby- need to Google him under Autojumblers. David deals in parts for classic cars, and is very knowledgeable and might (just might) be able to advise. Tell him Gareth (Metropolitan) suggested to give him a ring. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lewis, I was with Cliff on not being sure how the symptoms were actually panning out. Although things may be a little clearer, I must confess I’m still not convinced I have the symptoms clearly boxed up. The symptoms you describe would seem to point to clutch hydraulic issues, where the hydraulic pressure is varying. If this is the case, the two culprits in the equation would obviously be the clutch master cylinder and/or the slave cylinder (not an uncommon problem) or of course the connecting pipework. To me, it now sounds as if a garage has done this work for you, rather than you doing it yourself. Is this correct? It now seems the clutch assembly has again been dismantled to remove the dual mass flywheel for it to be sent for assessment - and it has been found to be without fault. Is this correct? Do you know (and if not, can you find out) what make of replacement clutch components were used? Perhaps you could come back to us Lewis. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Allan, If you are considering fitting larger wheels (two sizes up) then you have to ensure the final outside diameter of the new wheels and tyres is the same as your current wheels and tyres. i.e. what you gain in wheel diameter you have to lose in tyre profile (depth). This loss of depth of rubber will obviously affect the ride quality. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Thomas, A strictly personal opinion, but Euro Car Parts can appear to be an attractive seller to those who follow discount codes - which they frequently list. As with all % discounts, the all important figure is the actual stated retail/starting price to which the % discount is applied, and it’s not uncommon to find their final discounted price is higher than its competitor’s ‘normal’ price, and indeed it’s own sub companies such as Car Parts 4 Less. Halfords?? Simply compare their prices with those listed for quality makes with some of the online suppliers already mentioned. The answer is there, and is generally not even worthy of second thought. Checking batteries? Indeed Halfords can usually check the efficiency of batteries ( recommended to be checked after at least a 10 mile run). If found to be substandard, do you buy a new one from Halfords? Depends whether the above is of any concern. How comprehensive are Halford’s test?? Having researched best price for on line purchase of a quality battery and found it to be £x (I would anticipate far less than £200), do you gamble spending this money as a possible (in caps) cure, or just spend more money on trying to diagnose the issues. This has to be a personal choice Thomas, and will depend on how low £x is after you have done your best-price homework and the hassle factor in presenting the car for further investigation and dealing with the seller. Of course, it has to be appreciated that advice given on here is free, and although based on personal experiences and logic, may not be accurate, but I would like to think folks who contribute on here do so as if they were in the situation of those asking for advice, Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth,

Come on Elaine. Giving up on a car just because it’s a little cold to travel in. What’s the world coming to!? Softy - cheaper to buy a thicker coat! All meant in good humour. Kind regards, Gareth