Magnet

All the details you would need to know Saagar, but have I missed your listed price? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Josh, Looks a very nice, well cared for example, and obviously it’s found a good home. I guess it goes without saying that you have it insured on an agreed value basis. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, What a superb looking example. All credit to you, and I trust it finds an equally good home. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Tim, Although it’s great to be seeking advice via. the forum, it’s your (in caps) car which you have concerns about - irrespective of whether others experience similar issues or not. Question is - are you prepared to live with this issue? The buck really stops there. If you are fine, if not, then you are going to have to progress the resolution. Unfortunately, no one else can make that decision for you or make progress for you. If it were mine:- I would be speaking with the Bristol company, explaining your concerns and asking their advice on whether this is ‘normal’ and liveable-with. If they advise it is not, then they make be able to suggest the cost of rectifying the probes. Armed with this information, I would then e-mail the dealer principal, outlining your concerns and formally registering a discontent. Of course, you may wish to await further information via. the forum, but to me, that would just be delaying making progress. Kind regards, Gareth. Written while John was replying.

Hello Tim, Enfield Tom seems to have provided some useful advice and background, and asks whether you bought it from a dealer or privately. If from a dealer, then it’s reasonable to expect that it should be fit for purpose. Even if bought privately, it must still be as described in the advertisement. Depending on your views on progressing the issue down this route, will dictate whether a trip down M4 to Bristol may be worthwhile. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wow, you must be lucky Thomas. Sound back plate on a 7 year old model! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, You haven’t told us whether wiggling the selector when in Park make any different. Getting at the isolator switch? Sorry, not sure what has to be removed on your particular model to be able to access the underside of the selector. Probably now well worth talking with another trusted local independent. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Robert. Great that you have everything documented to proceed with a claim as if under warranty. Well worth amending your profile to include model and year details. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, A stab at it might suggest the ‘Park’ isolator switch, which ensures the car will not start unless it is in Park. Is it possible to wiggle whatever it is that locates the selector in the Park position? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, Just wondering:- Why ‘Model’- None yet, and ‘Year’ - N/A. The forum obviously is nor aware of how long the vehicle has now been out of warranty. Can we take it that you have retained a record of your complaint and when the vehicle was presented to the dealership? All good and necessary evidence to support Steve’s valid comments. Kind regards, Gareth.

Are we talking manual or automatic here Tim? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, I really don’t know the answer to your question - sorry - but I were in your situation, I too would want to have the correct answer before committing to buy. Unseen Certificate of Conformity? Well maybe ( in caps) the answer does lie there, but... Have you tried an e-mail to Audi Customer Services, giving them the VIN and asking the straight question? I would anticipate the answer lies there. Fall back - present the car for MOT and see what happens? Of course the pass/fail is going to be on the judgement of the tester. Just wondered if you have a particular reason for wanting a LHD car for use in the UK? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Good old fashioned phone call to the Parts. Dept. at your local dealer - or dare if say, a face to face visit. I think it was BT who has an advert slogan when I had hair - ‘ It’s good to talk’ . Rapidly becoming a forgotten art!? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, If it were mine, I would be enquiring at Audi to see what they are charging, but probably won’t be cheap. Of course, hopefully someone on here may be able to assist, but if not, I would think EBay is your best source for at least having a choice of what to buy/not to buy. Do you have the wallet and other books? If not, there is someone selling the whole set on EBay for £49.99? I would guess your £30 for the handbook may prove to be competitive. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Can we take it that the car was not using any oil prior to the oil and filter change - your write up suggests it didn’t, but it would be great to have confirmation? We take it that following the oil change and start up, you ensured the level was up to the max. mark- after standing for say10mins after start up? If the answer to both is Yes, then obviously this car has strangely started to consume oil at the rate of around 700 miles to the pint. Why?? What has changed:- Oil - Brand used (and viscosity)? Filter - brand used? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks David. I would expect that that would be useful information for anyone embarking on doing a similar job. Clearcoat/lacquer? Not previously encountered before, but over the last couple of years, I have been finding the a couple of popular makes of lacquer used have crazed after a couple of months, despite careful application according to instructions. Just wondered which brand you use. Kind regards, Gareth.

That’s really impressive David. As a matter of interest, what was the finished colour name/code? Could be useful to other members on here. Hello Dom, Its probably me, but I’m not quite following the logic. Do you want to sell the current wheels in order to provide funds to buy some that you find more attractive? If so, I guess you will still have to buy the replacements first! If you cannot find a buyer for them as they are, then you probably realise it’s not worth you spending even a modest amount to improve their appearance which may attract a buyer. David’s approach is great, but of course you must be prepared to spend time, skills and money on materials to add value to what you want to sell. Having said all that, £150/wheel sounds a bit expensive, but the design is complex as you say. On a positive note if you do want to spend on them then I would be asking for recommendations from small local car sales sites. These folks generally know where to get such things done at reasonable cost. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ollie, I would suggest you return them, since you are aware that they aren’t the correct ones for your car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kenneth, We take it the clutch pedal feels normal, and if so, my guess at it would be the problem is associated with the linkages, since it seems all the troublesome gears are selected by a forward movement of the gear lever. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Many thanks. Detail is indeed king and allows more meaningful advice to be given. 100mA, although higher than it should be, should not be sufficient to cause you significant issues if the car is in daily use. As a general rule of thumb, around 50mA is normal after a fully locked down and alarmed car has been standing for a couple of minutes. What we are not sure about here is whether your (temporary?) issue has been caused by water ingress, or if there is still an underlying parasitic drain. It seems like you are well equipped to progress this, and it would be great if you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, You seem to suggest that your battery is now discharging within the working day. Is that the case? If so, you have some major ‘parasitic’ drain. Water and electrics and battery control module? Obviously not a good recipe, but since you had issues prior, then there may well still be residual issues. Unless you have the meters and skills, I would invest in an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician with some urgency. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Replacing warped discs? Not a logical way forward in my book. If the discs are that warped then you would feel, it as a pulsing pedal. 65/70 mph is typical wheel balance/tyre territory, and without doubt, I would not be renewing anything until rear/ front tyres are swopped. Have you got matching make and tread pattern tyres, at least on the same axle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Natalie, I think the quickest and most reliable answer to your questions will lie at another dealership where you are more likely to get impartial advice. Yes, it’s possible the items you describe are standard equipment for your model, but it could (just could be) that they are ‘extras’. Being Devil’s advocate :- I guess you bought the car in the condition/equipped as it is now, and the dealership may well maintain that you have what you bought, since none of the items could be seen as essential. Of course, if the vehicle was bought as new then it would have to be equipped as built. As secondhand, it will be equipped with everything that was with it when you agreed to buy it. If it were mine, I would be enquiring at another dealer, then talking nicely to see what compromise you can come to (if any) if anything is missing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Are we taking the rear footwell here- actually where a passenger’s feet would rest, or somewhere else in the rear ‘compartment’ - sorry I don’t know where the amplifier lives. Wondered what evidence you have to support eliminating the sun roof and it’s drains, and are there any tell tale signs of water stains ‘running down’ to the offending area? Or indeed to indicate if the water is being sloshed into the area from the or rear directions if practical. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well that blows that theory then Chris! Normally vibrations felt through seat or floor is associated with rear wheel imbalance. Tried shopping front wheels to back? Kind regards, Gareth.