Magnet

Thanks for coming back Zahir, All of this can only be guesstimates, but it’s quite possible that the parts bill might be halved by buying quality aftermarket parts. Further, I would be surprised if your London Audi dealer’s labour rates are less than £140 + VAT/ hr..Again, this might be halved at a local garage, so you can do the maths, and adjusting by the £140 (+ VAT?) for inspection, plus the transport costs ( if currently disabled) to get it to another small garage. I have to say this as I think ( in caps) it might be:-you must be knowledgeable of the added cost of engaging main dealers in looking after this 13 year old car, so larger than average bills must be the norm to you. If so, it might be a case of ‘carry on then’ with this job, rather than perhaps shopping around in the future to get better value for money. Perhaps you could let us know what you think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for letting us know Harv. Homework is king, and if you treat any claim for any good points as being fictitious until the evidence is shown, then it should minimise your risks. First port of call for me is always MOT history, followed by DVLA vehicle check to see when the last V5 was issued. Good clue to how long the last owner has had it, but can be misleading if the new V5 was issued due to cherished number sorting. Ask the seller to e-mail you a copy of the service history, then contact the servicing dealer/s and confirm/ get additional info there. Enquiries via. VIN might be necessary if it’s been on cherished numbers. Ask the seller to let you have remaining tread levels on all 4 wheels, and tyre brands would be good to know. All of this homework, and more, can now be carried out from the comfort of your arm chair, before viewing. Viewing without having first done this homework can be dangerous, due to falling in love with it - and what does love do to your eyesight? Last thing:- If I was buying in that price range then I would invest in an independent inspection before agreeing to buy. It’s a small amount of extra funds to pay for reassurance. Check out local independents around the area the vehicle is for sale in. Perhaps you could keep in touch as things develop Harv, and please come back to us anyway if you think we can help. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zahir, As Cliff says really. Can we take you the original mechanic didn’t want to do the job because it was too complex to get at?? If so, I’m surprised you took this 13 year old car to a main dealer - probably the last place to go to show respect to your wallet. Still, regrettably, you are stuck with it there now, and I guess you will just have to await the verdict. Alternatively, you instruct them to hold fire - pay their labour costs so far, and pay to get it transported to another garage of your choice. Sorry, I can’t see any other alternatives - as harsh as that might be. If it were me, I would be requesting the main dealer to keep you updated on cause and cure, before agreeing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, Good old EBay?, Aliexpress? PM to Sean? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Such issues are normally as a result of a sticky solenoid in the flap release. Worth doing a forum search, since this been raised in the past. Meanwhile give it a good squirt of WD40 , while you search. Quickest way to get it open ( before fitting a new solenoid) is to leave your fuel level drop to under a quarter, and call out your breakdown provider. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well I’m passing my thanks on to Dave, but it does give us a lift when efforts on here are known to be appreciated. Our thanks to you both. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Gavin, and thanks for joining. Having now done what would be considered comprehensive, you now need to get the actual oil pressure physically measured by a garage who has the equipment to do so. This test should be carried out straight after a run of at least 10 miles. Beware that if you leave your car at a garage they are likely to test it just when they can! - and unlikely will have taken it on a run beforehand, so the pressure will be higher than the running actual. Having changed what you have, it might not have solved the wear which could have taken place during earlier low oil pressure, so bearings maybe worn. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harv, Offering comments and advice is always difficult, since generally, the requester just wants reassurance that what they intend to do is correct. Hopefully the forum outlines what it sees as being worthy of further investigation and clarification. Of course, such questioning paints a pessimistic picture, but in reality draws attention to certain potential downsides, for the buyer to consider. The buyer then adds the positives which they see, which of course we don’t. Re. deposits ( if you decide to pull out) - yes generally non refundable, but note the wording of the advert - and even comments made during inspection. If any of these prove to be (even partially) incorrect, then I would argue that the vehicle isn’t as described. Say in this case:- ‘Full service history’ , which by normal standards, it doesn’t have. Good luck with whatever you decide Harv. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Would be worth looking at LLL Parts website. They may have an exploded view of the seat arrangements.

Hello Peter, Are you sure what you are seeing are indeed cracks in the lacquer, as opposed to stains? From what you tell us, it wouldn’t surprise me if they are lacquer cracks though. ‘I usually have my car cleaned…’ That statement maybe all the explanatory evidence that is needed. Do you mean at a local car wash facility where they have jet washers and spray-on chemicals. If so, they will be spraying your wheels with acid, prior to blasting water at high pressure onto your lacquer. Outcome ? what you are experiencing. If this is the cleaning regime you normally follow, the next issue you will have is that the lacquer on the vehicle starts to get milky patches. All of this is akin to sticking you in the shower, spraying you with acid, then turning the shower pressure to maximum. Yes, you will come out clean - but good for you? Do not try this at home! (In caps). Apologies if all the above is wrong Peter. Perhaps you would be kind enough to let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very little is still the way it was Ian. The OP joined and posted on the same day, and has not been heard of since! Yet another example of Post and Run.

Hello Harv, Many thanks for thanking the forum for the comments made. It doesn’t always happen. Anyway, back to the matter in hand:- Let’s say it’s less common for a main dealer to retail a 6 year old car, but it is what it is. Have you checked the dealer price against say, Parker’s Guide values to ensure the price isn’t inflated. It might be well worth comparing with some of the other 230 Frank mentions. Number of owners:- Most have been owned by the Service Manager or someone very close to them! Buyers have to like salt - if you see what I mean! The fact from the service print-out:- Change of owner on 29/7/19 , and most worrying (in caps) on 26 June of this year. They will probably inform you that the MPC on that date was carried out prior to putting on the forecourt where you have seen it, but how do you know that it isn’t a vehicle which has been rejected under the 30 day return policy. Be assured, that you will be assured that that isn’t the story! Service history:- Some artistic licence there - oil service (minor service) at 17K; no service again in the next 23k - and again only a minor oil service then; next at 50k, then recent. - all marked as oil services. My take would be, that it has a partial history of oil changes. Disappearing reference to discs/pads and bushes? Possibly a try-on with the previous owner, but inspection of the front brake discs should reveal whether they have been renewed in the recent past. Brakes heating up, to the extent of hearing contraction of metal noises, points to issues - as mentioned - unless your test driving included a tendency on your part to leave braking until the last moment before standing on them. Last bit to consider:- 4 wheel drive tyres should have near matching tread on both axles, so new on front and not much tread on back isn’t good news. Make of tyres they have fitted to the front? Well Harv, that is a bit of warts and all assessment, but should allow you to stand back, do your homework, believe or disbelieve the answers given, and simply give it a good couple of coats of thinking about. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, To save us repeating, where have you searched so far?

Welcome Harv, and thanks for joining. Can we take it this 6 year old vehicle isn’t being sold by an Audi main dealer? If it is, this would be slightly unusual due to age. Apologies for the questions. Was the latest MOT ( how recent?) done at the same MOT station as last year, where the advisories were listed? Have you actually seen evidence of the computerised ‘full service history”? It is surprising how this can be claimed to exist, but disappears into the ether when sight of it is asked for. How many main dealer services has it had, and at what mileages? Does that record point to new discs and pads being fitted after last year’s MOT, along with the bushes? How many owners has it had, and how long has the last owner owned it? Short term ownership triggers suspicion. Lastly, is the tyre brand the same on all four wheels? But more importantly, is the remaining tyre thread fairly well matched on all four wheels? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Clicking sounds from wheel area :- are you sure it is from the wheels and not associated with exhaust pipes - which would not be unusual? Such cooling-down noises from brakes would however be unusual, and might point to sticky calipers or similar.

Thanks Jim, Audi/VW specialists:- one would assume that they would only use dealer parts, but an assumption it has to be. At the opposite end of the scale, they could use ‘cheapest deal from their favourite motor factor’. Some main dealers used to have ‘discounted offers’ on such things a cambelt changes on older vehicles. Now?? In some cases it was cheaper to get it done at the main dealer, than at an independent. Beware, the dealer may well now tell you it doesn’t need changing until c125K miles ( without any time limit). Please let us know if we can advise you further, once you have done the basic homework. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think you are absolutely right on safer option Cliff. Sad to say, as far as water pumps are concerned, I pay the penalty of high dealer prices for peace of mind. If only we knew who were the OEM manufacturers! -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Worth trying Parts in Motion for competitive prices if you do ( no connection), except bought Brembo parts off them for a non-Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps it went a bit like this with not changing the water pump on this particular vehicle Cliff:- It had only done 25k miles, and if it were mine, I wouldn’t have changed it in this case, solely based on experiencing the affects of fitting some aftermarket pumps which prove to be troublesome in a short space of time. In fact, by the same logic, I wouldn’t be in a rush to automatically change a 47K pump, but I too would want to inspect it. A new pump would have to be VAG only for me (in caps). I’ve also been disappointed with the bearing quality on some hitherto respectable branded tensioners - rough as a badger’s whatsit. I note that that particular ‘manufacturer’ is now marketing full timing belt kits under their own brand name, so it becomes choose wisely, and for me ( again in caps) VAG pump only. Kind regards, Gareth.

Without meaning to be patronising Neil, it’s always good to note when a poster acknowledges help given by another member - regrettably rare - so really pleased Dave has been able to help. Re. No handbook. Worth having a look on EBay. You should find one there, and they are a useful thing to have. Good luck with sorting it all out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Have read the numerous posts on here about air con. pressure sensors? Let us know what you think once you have. Kind regards, Gareth.

Who carried out this work Jim? Some aftermarket water pumps -and tensioners are not as good as they could be. As you say:- long time since 2017 ( even though relatively low mileage since). According to VAG’s previously sound logic, it should have been changed again in 2022. Now they daftly don’t stipulate a time limit, so could be a ticking time bomb to destroyed engine. I would be getting it inspected - changed?- if it were mine. Perhaps you could let us know what you think Jim. Kind regards, Gareth.

Could you please let the forum know if you resolved this Sean -? Thanks.

Now warned for Post-and-Run tactics. Any future posts will need to be sanctioned. Moderator.

I’ve now ‘Unmarked’ the Solve until Mark kindly let’s us know what he did to solve the issue. Come on Mark.

So are you going to carryout the test I suggested Daniel?