Magnet

Hello Phil, As I said in my response, it was not designed to improve driving experience or as an aid to reduce mechanical wear. It’s concept lies firmly and solely in making a contribution to reducing pollution levels. Your road of 10 stop/restarts is probably a good example, and if you multiply the number of vehicles using that stretch of road at the same time, and assess the time at rest when the emissions from these engines would be zero if they were operated on Stop/restart, then the combined ‘good effect’ would be significant. I think we drivers are generally cosseted from this pollution since as we sit in our little box, but for pavement walkers and residents, the effects are indeed detrimental and significant, and every little helps. I just wonder how long the option of turning off the stop/restart technology will last, and it would surprise me if the option will remain on new vehicles beyond the next couple of years. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Paul, So you have now discovered the wipers and washers do not work with the bonnet open! Good isn’t it? Someone at VAG’s good idea, probably because due to one particular model’s wipers possibly catching on the edge of an open bonnet - or something! Re. a tutorial of using a meter. If this was my car, I would not be connecting a meter to anything on the car, if you are asking how to use a meter. These, like most other ‘modern’ cars, are ‘electronically sensitive’ and it is not advisable to go around connecting test lamps and the like unless you are competent. Appreciating the car is off the road, but I would now stick with my original suggestion and buy an hour’s services of a (mobile) auto electrician - it could be a lot cheaper in the long run. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Wiper stalk at fault? Could be.

Hi Lee, They are normally separate from the ECU coolant temperature sensor, and the two often have two different colour plastic connector heads. Sorry, but I can’t be positive as far as Audi is concerned. If they are separate then the gauge sender usually has two wires, and the coolant temperature sensor sometimes three. Best bet would to to wander into the parts section of your main dealer and they will have a diagram which will help with location, and clarify one-doing -two -jobs or not. Oil leak? Sorry Lee, I can’t offer any suggestion with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, You could be right, it may need coding. Obviously, it is well beyond the bounds of probability that 7 wiper motors are at fault. I would now want to confirm that the motor is getting a supply voltage ( apologies if you have already confirmed this). If this were mine, having spent time and money in chasing around for 7 motors without success, I would now be at the point of investing an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, I think you are diagnosing the issue yourself, and if this was my car, I too would be first renewing the coolant temperature sender. Personally, I would not use an aftermarket one. Fingers crossed that will sort the gauge discrepancy. Next on my list would be be to replace the coolant reservoir cap (again with a VAG one) to ensure the system remains correctly pressurised. This may be the source of your slight coolant loss if you cannot find any external evidence of a leak. I’m from the school of doing one thing and test, otherwise you will not know what corrected the fault. Last component ( if necessary) would be the thermostat. Most certainly VAG only. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, Sorry but my experience of diesels is rather limited, but personally I would be tempted to discount glow plugs since I understand they generally don’t come into the equation until the temperature drops below c 5 degrees. Relays, associated with the fuel pump/s may be worth investigating. Very often, it is much easier with these tings to invest in an hour’s services of a diesel specialist, but I would seek some local recommendations before choosing one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Simple things first:- I would be getting the battery efficiency checked, together with the alternator output. Appreciating the car is only 3 years old, but these batteries get a hammering with stop/start systems. Recently experienced a total battery failure on an 18 month old Fiesta belonging to a friend. Such things were previously unheard of. ‘Christmas tree’ warning lights can often be as a result of low battery efficiency. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mario, Sorry to hear of your problem. Can I ask if you experience any feeling of ‘pulsing’ or roughness at the clutch pedal when you start to depress it? I would support Dan’s view that this could be associated with the release bearing, but hopefully not the flywheel, but.... Where you bought it, and how it was described in the advert is important, even if it was a private sale. This why it is not so uncommon to see vehicles advertised as simply:- ‘Starts, stops, drives’. It is always difficult to diagnose faults without examining the car, and if it were mine, I would be first seeking advice from a trusted local garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ken, It sounds like you deserve to be proud of this car, and feel reluctant to let it go. Well done car! - and well done you for looking after it. I think you are looking for advice on whether to keep it or not. If so, it depends how much sentimental value you (understandably) have in it, and whether that is greater than the potential short term future value increase. The hard commercial fact is that the cost, and responsibility to retain the car is unlikely to be covered by the potential increase in its value, so it is back to the cost of sentiment. I would say the car would need to be undercover, and if you are able to do that without cost, then you are half way there. Of course, road tax will ( might) have to to be factored in, as will MOT charges and insurance, although the car will qualify for relatively low cost classic car cover if you are prepared to seriously restrict its annual mileage. Hope some of this helps Ken, and if you do decide to keep it and want more specific advice then please come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies for being direct Simon, but since you ask where you should focus your attention, I can only reinforce the suggestion of readdresing this with well trusted diesel specialists - or carry a set of ramps around with you and continually run it up on these. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I’m sure your motor factors is right - this is likely to be a main dealer part only. Kind regards, Gareth

I don’t think you can beat personal experience, and all comments are worth studying and following on to form opinions from there. Currently, the Audi A3 and the non Audi, are running on Continentals. My experiences might not be worth much though, since our motoring is not based on trying to get around corners on two wheels, but...... Dunlop? Personally never did much to tempt me into considering buying them, but again, but.... Good luck with your considered decision, and if you base it on buy once and wisely, you shouldn’t go too too far wrong. Having chosen, keep a regular eye on the tyre pressures. Now that is good advice! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, I think you have to ask yourself the question of why this technology has been developed ( although it’s concept does go back over 80 years!). Yes, the answer is environment friendliness - not engine friendliness. The maximum wear tends to occur on start up, where oil pressure has dropped to zero, that is why some low mileage cars can be as worn as much as high mileage motorway-driven cars. I think the answer is that stop/start technology is not in the best interest of the vehicle - engine, starter motor, battery etc. ,but is in the best interest of the environment. How long do you intend to keep the car? The answer to this, and of course your views on the environment and what other polluters are doing about it - might aid a decision on which way to go forward. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wayne, Glad there is a simple resolution. A bleeding obvious statement, but tyres are the only thing to grip the road and react to the driver turning the steering wheel. Checking tyre pressures?? Well it can sometimes be the last thing the owner does. My standard always points me to have at the least the same make and pattern of tyres on the same axle, and preferably a matched set of four. All other things being equal, I tend to avoid cars with a mix of tyres - it can point to general lack of respect by the previous owner Hope you don’t mind me mentioning Wayne, but you are having good fortune with the seller funding a new set of tyres. If this were mine, I would be adding some money into the pot and ensuring the new tyres to be fitted are the best ones for the car - Dan has offered you a recommendation. If you don’t, then you are likely to end up with a set of budget tyres, or at best - mid range. I would be doing this once and wisely, to minimise the risk of longer term dissatisfaction. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, Sorry to hear your problems are continuing, and indications are that the work carried out, might not have been as thorough as you would have hoped for. I’m not too familiar with diesels, but I believe one of the basic tests normally carried out is a leak-back test ( I believe it’s called ) which takes in the serviceability of the injectors. Did they carryout this test? If this was mine then I would be going forward from here by following my earlier advice , and seeking recommendations from your local taxi chaps - ask a few. These folks need reliable and competitively priced service, and their recommendations are generally sound. It’s time to worry If they come up with the same place you have tried! I had the same issue with a BMW engined Freelander, and this turned out to be a couple of injectors. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, I’m very sorry to hear of your problem. I’m certainly not qualified to advise you how to proceed from here, but if I were in your situation I would quickly set the ball rolling by seeking the necessary legal advice to formally reject this vehicle as not being fit for purpose, and with no organised resolution for the fault. I would anticipate the legal advice would be directed to formally notifying the supplying dealer, Audi UK, and the finance company of that fact, and directing them to make a full refund without delay - on return of the car. Personally, however inconvenient, I would not use it, since it’s continued use might dilute the claim that it is unfit for purpose, so time is of the essence, and I would not be prepared to accept any piggy in the middle responsibility, or delaying tactics. Good luck in getting this sorted quickly, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I guess you are talking wheel size here?? If so, what is the current (original?) diameter? Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh come on Trevor, don’t be nasty about MG Rover (only joking!) About on a par with most others of the period I guess. Keep up the good work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gavin, My advice would be to first have the alternator output checked - yes I know it has been replaced, but replaced does not always equal fully serviceable. Well worth confirming the output value. Other port-of-call check would be checking the battery condition and serviceability. HRW not working? Worth checking the above first, before moving on to diagnose the cause. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Nathaniel, So the advice has moved you on a stage. Personally, I prefer making a phone call rather than depending on e-mails, since e-mailed replies may not give you the full details you require. However, actual contact phone numbers can sometimes be difficult to find. As I see it, they are referring to XL tyres which in my book equates to ‘extra load’ - the meaning being obvious, but the possible effect on ride quality may not. I’m old fashioned, but 40 profile tyres are at best a little ‘backside on the ground’ ride inducing, so a XL variant of this (where we assume the sidewalls will be less flexible) will give an even stiffer ride. Unless your current tyres are marked XL and you know and are happy with the ride comfort, then personally I would be avoiding an XL tyre. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathaniel, I'm afraid I cannot help you with the differences between these two Continental tyres, although I have been running our non-Audi on Contact 2 (I think), and now the A3 on Contact 5. My best suggestion would be to contact Continental (UK) and ask there - where you should be guaranteed getting the differences explained. Perhaps you can let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, I would consider your car would warrant advertising in the mainstream classic car publications. There is now a magazine called ‘Modern Classics’ (or something similar), and this could be worth a look at. There are others. Re. advice on pricing/value :- I feel you have an idea of the car’s worth, since you mention several of the offers received to date are lower than your expectations. You could be right with your view, and if you can afford the space and time to hang onto it, then you might well achieve the price you think it is worth. Selling even nice examples of cars is sometimes not straightforward, and I recall putting a 8,000 mile from new Morris 1000 into a classic car auction, and asking the auctioneer’s advice on its valuation. The reply was ‘ It’s worth what someone is prepared to write a cheque for on the day, and that might be very much different in value to tomorrow’s cheque!’ Anticipated offer from dealer? This could be attractive, but logic would suggest that he will be expecting to make a healthy and worthwhile profit beyond your anticipated valuation. His msark-up is likely to be considerable, since understandably his net profit will be eroded by 25% VAT together with an additional approx. 20% going in tax. I could be wrong, but I’m with Steve’s suggestion which recommends you advertise an asking price. Simply stating ‘offers’ is likely to render you open to unwanted lower-than-expected offers, or putting others off on the basis that their approaches may be a waste of their/your time. Good luck in finding the car a good home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Simon, Are Patkins diesel specialists? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, If this was my car, I would be taking it to a trusted local diesel specialist (taxi drivers are usually a good source of such recommendations). They normally carry out a fairly simple ‘leak back’ test, (and others) which could be helpful judging by your symptoms. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nigel, Sounds good, but personally I would not replace the spark plugs. It would be interesting to know what service schedule this car was set on when new. Not sure what the current situation is, but there was a choice of Longlife (based on mileage and usage) service, or (I think) a set time interval routine. It might be useful to check on this, since in your Dad’s case, a fixed timescale schedule would be more appropriate. Irrespective, I think you will find that servicing alerts will show up at ‘anniversary’ intervals to advise on brake fluid changes etc. Kind regards, Gareth.