Jump to content


Magnet

Moderators
  • Posts

    7,377
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    382

Everything posted by Magnet

  1. Well ‘b’ you will know how effective the use of this kit has been. If it hasn’t effectively removed the majority of the haze then it has been ineffective, and the likely cause of poor lighting remains there. Has it removed the haze or not? If not you need to try something else. Have a look at YouTube videos etc. or try something like a G3 rubbing compound. It’s had work, but usually successful. What surprises me is that we are talking a 6 year old vehicle here - now that would be unusual, unless the car has been subjected to our cheap pressure lance waving car cleaners. Not so cheap when it affects such things, and brake components when wheel cleaner is applied. Kind regards, Gareth.
  2. Hello Georgia, Straight from the school of simple things first - I would advise getting the battery efficiency checked first. Yes, I appreciate the car is only four years old, but all systems are now so dependent on the precise efficiency of all aspects of the battery’s efficiency. Batteries and service life:- so far this year, 15 month old (xxxx) battery failed - couldn’t even jump start it through the original battery! 3 year and 3 month old ‘prestige’ make with below spec. battery causing non stop/start and other issues. This is just based on my DIY year to date. Kind regards, Gareth.
  3. Hello ‘b’, When you say hazy, do you mean the plastic lens has become hazy, or are you talking about some other part of the headlight? Kind regards, Gareth.
  4. Hello Huw, It could well be to do with linkage adjustment, but (just in my opinion) it is rare that the system would need to be adjusted - particularly twice. Getting it done for free a year after ? Um? I think this will boil down to the degree of goodwill which is extended. Bought from one of Mr Sinclair’s dealerships? Kind regards, Gareth.
  5. Hello James, Just a couple of points:- In my experience, the only place to go for information about recommended tyre pressures ( if not shown inside the fuel filler flap etc.) is the vehicle handbook, checking against wheel and tyre size, and number of passengers etc. Over inflation and tyre pressure warning? Good question. Does this system alert to over inflation as well as under? If not, it should do. Kind regards, Gareth.
  6. Hello Owen, Obviously not saying this has anything to do with it, but Pagid is a brand name used by Euro Car Parts. Mintex was a once very well respected brand - now simply a bought out brand name. Re. your other suggested possibilities:- if master cylinder and or servo, why aren’t all (in caps) four wheels adversely affected? Kind regards, Gareth.
  7. Hello Paul, Have you wandered into your local (long established if possible) motor factors and enquired there? They should be able to give you the aftermarket - Walker etc. - part numbers, which is likely to broaden your horizons. From my (earlier information) it appears similar in form to that fitted to the earlier 1989 to 1991 90 saloons which Walker list under part no. 64 15241. Kind regards, Gareth.
  8. It all hinges on using good quality oils and filters. Cheap is just not good enough in my book particular when DIY = free labour costs!
  9. Hello Owen, I’m confused. You know you have an issue with the N/S front brake not releasing - that problem is not going to go away by any amount of brake rolling road testing. If your mechanic believes O/S is .....not working at all... then obviously this is a new issue. OK test will assess its efficiency, but as I say, will not do anything for the problem you have already highlighted. Incidentally, who fitted the new discs and pads, and what make were they? Kind regards, Gareth.
  10. Hello Tony, Sorry cannot help with 1 for your model year, but I’m sure somebody will. Do you have a handbook? If so, this should point you to the correct original - assuming you want to return it to that set up. Re.2 - sounds very much as if the car has been subjected to short runs, and what you are seeing is condensation. If it were mine, I would be treating it to a good run of at least 20 miles, followed by an immediate oil drain, clean off the residue, fit a new good quality oil filter (main dealer or if not Mann) and refill with a good quality engine oil of the correct grade (5w30? please check). I only use Quantum Longlife 3 which was/is recommended by VAG. Garages would not have the time to take the car for such a run etc., so it would be best done as a DIY job if you have the skills. Re. 3. Probably no more than a poor/dirty connection. Worth investing in 1/2hr with an autoelectrician. Kind regards, Gareth.
  11. Hello Harch, I think the forum needs a specific answer in order to offer any meaningful advice. Kind regards, Gareth.
  12. Hello Harch, Could you let us know whether ‘does not start’ means the engine is not being cranked over by the starting motor, or it is, but the car does not start? Kind regards, Gareth.
  13. Hello Owen, Sorry it didn’t work for you. When advising sight-unseen it’s always difficult to try to diagnose these/any issues. ABS unit? Possibly. I’m from the school of simple things first, which is fine if it’s on a DIY principle, but not so good if you are paying someone to look at the simple things! It it were mine, and if (in caps) I was examining the car myself at no charge to me, I would be checking that the caliper slides are properly free and the caliper carrier is free from any distortion. Also double checking the disc sits nicely on a cleaned and de rusted hub - garages sometimes/often don’t take as much care with this as a DIY person would, since time is money. Yes you can ask them to recheck these and other eliminating factors, but ..... Back to ABS units. Obviously this is where the costs comes in, and is replacing it going to guarantee to solve the problem? Yes it’s possibe it will, be let’s hope it doesn’t turn out to be another costly try-that experience. I could think about rigging up some trial brake pipework which would by pass the ABS unit supply to this caliper and do a quick trial-only test with that, but not simple, and would be costly if not DIYing, so I guess you are in their hands. Kind regards, Gareth.
  14. Hello John, I think you are absolutely right in saying there is likely to be mixed opinion on this. Mark’s dealer has probably given him sound opinion, but I wonder about the correct wording relating to ‘sealed for life’. If this means what it really says and the unit is indeed ‘sealed’ then Mark has been given the correct advice. If, as I think they mean - Audi does not have this on their service schedule - then all it means is that it doesn’t have (in caps) to be done, and it’s back to your question of whether to or not. I found the same very vague situation with the fuel filter on our 2006 A3. No service interval - which is of course daft. Not sure if any of this helps, so it might be worth keeping an open mind on it. Kind regards, Gareth.
  15. Hello Iain, Sorry to hear of your unfortunate experiences with the Q7. Unfortunate for you, and I’m sure the content of this thread will be useful to others. In order to make it more meaningful, it would be advantageous to have the thread title altered from your name to something more appropriate to the content, so others attention is drawn to it. Perhaps you could request ‘Admin’ to do that for you, or re- post it under a different title such as ‘ Unfortunate experience with Q7’ or stronger if you feel. Kind regards, Gareth.
  16. Worth having an AA or RAC inspection Bob? Kind regards, Gareth.
  17. Good luck with the intended sale Tony. Nice cars should only be bought and sold over a nice cup of tea - and cake as a bonus! Kind regards, Gareth.
  18. Hello Rob, Sounds exciting. Not wanting to put a dampener on your intended purchase, but it seems from the ......’.I am buying ..on Sunday’ that you have made up your mind to buy the car, yet it appears ....’ seeing it in the flesh...’ that you have only seen photos of the car. As they say, love is blind, so I would ensure you take someone along with you who know his way around secondhand cars, and hopefully A8s in particular. FASH. Yes important and an asset, but not the be all and end all. If it were me, I would be trying to get a service print out for the car rather than just having sight of a few stamps in a book - which don’t tell you much. Warranty? You are very wise to take note of the ....apart from wear and tear ... part. That is where the devil hides. Everything wears in 8 years, so effectively the warranty can potentially be classed as being of no value. All warranties are insurance backed, and this one might be no more restrictive than any other, but of course the dealer will promote this one since he is likely to be gaining commission on your £500 payment. If it were me, I too would be getting excited, but trying to temper that excitement until all homework has been done and the car viewed by someone independent of the excitement factor. Good luck with hopefully buying it. Kind regards, Gareth.
  19. Hello Owen, I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s always difficult to diagnose anything without examining the animal. Having read what you have said, I would be beginning to suspect the brake flexible hose on the offending side. These can deteriorate internally and as they break up, can effectively form a ‘one way flap valve’ which allows the pressurised fluid to move into the calliper, but not to adequately allow the pressure to be released. Just a stab Owen, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.
  20. Hello Tony, It seems you are well equipped to sell a vehicle and have contacts which extend beyond those commonly known to the majority of private sellers. I doubt if you really need anymore advice of how to go about these things. As I’m sure you will appreciate, everything ultimately sells on price, and I always try to be realistic in my expectations, rather than ‘playing the valuation’ game. In my book, a quoted selling price is a must, and ‘offers considered’ is a definite off put. For what it is worth, 2 auctioneer statements stick in mind from the days when I had hair:- ‘The valuation of a vehicle is judged by what someone will write you a cheque for on the day, and is likely to be different from another persons cheque tomorrow - ( in relation to me selling a 9k miles Morris 1000 at the time). Another auctioneer’s comment on a private sale where the buyer asks ‘What will you take for it?’ His reply was ‘Keep putting your money on the table and I’ll tell you when it is enough’. Both statements stick in the mind since they realistically outline dealings with genuine sellers and reasonable buyers, as opposed to valuation seekers. Kind regards, Gareth.
  21. Hello Phil, Pleased it’s fixed and we were on the right line. Even better when folks take the trouble to report back. Unfortunately, it seems that follow up is rare and the thread remains open and of little use to anyone with similar issues in the future. Many thanks for letting us know Phil. Crimp connections!! Being old (fashioned) I have an inherent distrust/dislike of this form of connection - just too many instances of dodgy connections, despite having the correct crimping tool. Kind regards, Gareth.
  22. Hello Tony, Apologies for restating, but I did say it could be possible to get next to nothing/nothing returned to you by going down the auction route. Again, yes you can advertise it as a ‘Classified’ ad. on EBay, where you list it at the figure you actually want. It did cost £14.99. What have you got to lose by giving it a try? £14.99. Kind regards, Gareth.
  23. Hello Paul, Wondered if you have read the threads concerning serious issues with the type of tyres you currently have fitted. If this were mine, I would be getting the car into my local trusted tyre depot and getting them thoroughly checked. Kind regards, Gareth.
  24. I’m really pleased and reassured that I feel I don’t have to be concerned about not getting the gist of the reply to this 2 year old thread!
  25. Magnet

    Dev

    Hello Dev, Thanks for filling in a bit more detail. Personally, I’m struggling with Audi’s comments that to check for wiring breaks, they have to remove the ECU, and if there aren’t any breaks then you would have to have a new ECU for the car to start again. Why? Surely they can simply replace and recode your original believed- faulty ECU and you are back where you started. What codes are being shown against the car? Kind regards, Gareth.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support