Magnet

Hello D, There are too many ifs and buts in this for me, if I was contemplating changing the (the expensive at any price) ECU. You tell us you have an engine management fault, but you don’t tell us if the engine management light is on all the time or just occasionally. Both investigations have pointed to either a wiring break ( my stab at it would be bad connection rather than an actual break), or an ECU issue. Let’s say you change the ECU - it isn’t going to solve the problem if it is indeed a wiring issue - I would eliminate this possibility before buying a replacement ECU. MOT and car running well? Maybe worth nipping it along to your friendly local MOT station and asking them to test the emissions against the VOSA limits, so you know where you are. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joseph, Manual or automatic? It might be worth changing your thread title/ resubmitting it since it just gives your name rather than details of the problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steven, Believed chain, but I could be wrong . Most reliable source would be the parts department ( not service reception) of your nearest main dealer and ask them - armed with the registration number and the VIN. If it proves to be a chain, it might be worth enquiring about replacing the tensioner, since these can wear. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies Tony. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The popular players in classic car auctions include H&H, Brightwells etc etc. The gamble might ( and it’s just a might) be that it turns out to be little more than and online auction, when you could use the old EBay for much less, and possibly far more coverage.

Hello Tony, Not one of the mainstream players in classic car auctions, as far as I’m aware. Their seller’s commission is well below the average of 15/20% (+vat?) which doesn’t seem to bode well. A quick bit of maths suggests a minimum cost to you of £470 if it sells, and assuming you deliver it to Warwickshire - from the London area? No doubt they will pick it up and even deliver it back if it doesn’t sell, but I’d be expecting a charge of around £1/mile round trip, each way. Even if you arranged to deliver it to them and it did sell, you might sell end up owing them money rather than getting any return! Quite honestly, you could be better off giving it away than embarking on this route. If (in caps) you wish to go down the auction route and are prepared to lose a fair amount of the selling price in commission, (I wouldn’t) , you could try (East?) Anglia Motor Auctions more over towards your neck of the woods. What’s wrong with advertising in Modern Classics, Piston Heads etc. Tony? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lisa, Their attitude appears reasonable, and it seems it will result in you being offered an alternative vehicle. However, I would be cautious and would be keeping notes on all dates, conversations and potential offers. ‘..........they aren’t going to put me back in another 1.5 Q3…’ Would you really want another 1.5 engined one? You like the Q3 .....what other engine variants are there? Money? If you formally reject the vehicle - and by next Monday it will be a week since you first posted here- I think I would be drafting a letter to formally reject it, but I would be using this weekend to take appropriate advice. Citizens Advice would be a good place to start. The outcome is that you should not be financially worse off with the outcome. You get your money back, and where then? A similar model from another manufacturer? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graham, You are going to have to spread your search to the internet ( often the best source of more competitive prices). Try an EBay search and extend out from there. You could also try manufacturers such as Fuel Parts, who should be able to give you part numbers. Kind regards Gareth.

Hello Phill, A £1000 service seems to have a touch of madness about I, unless it included repair/replacing certain components. £680 to renew a crankshaft oil seal (part cost possibly under £10) sounds more reasonable, and probably equates to 5 to 6 hours labour. No too unreasonable when you consider the gearbox is likely to have to come out. Kind regards, Gareth.

But worn chains can jump teeth Cliff. Failing tensioner are often the primary cause. Let’s hope it all works out for Jonny. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Billy, Thanks for the additional information. Apologies for being pessimistic, but with the symptoms you have and the mileage covered, it would not surprise me if it proves to be a gearbox out job, but let’s hope the Audi dealer comes up with something fairly simple. If this were mine, I would be informing the selling dealer of your issue, since there should be some redress there after such a short ownership. Full service history is great, but overall condition and signs of being looked after is far more important. Sounds like it might have had one careless owner and 100 drivers. Half a day out for servicing with a dealer gives it a rest, but then it’s back to its normal routine. I’ve got my fingers crossed for you, and let’s hope you won’t need to be discussing contributions from the selling dealer. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Billy. kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Back to the battery and local garage testing. Fine in my book, but you are likely to end up with a brand of battery which their local motor factors supply them. Would I go down that road? No, I wouldn’t. Not sure where you get your £200 anticipated spend from for a battery? As a guide, the previously mentioned ‘prestige’ vehicle which we bought a battery for last week from Tayna was a Range Rover Evoque diesel, and believe me, that was a big and hernia inducing heavy battery. JLR dealer price - £277. Tayna price for a Varta (original equipment) battery via. their EBay site was £136. Hope this may aid the wallet. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Cambelt? Your online check sounds reasonable, but personally, I would be wandering in to my nearest main dealer and seeking their advice. Once you have that , and their quote, double check with another main dealer since dealers often do promotional offers on such jobs.

Hello Jonny, First things first - on a comparison basis. How do you know it costs c£250 for the belt and pump? Is this for the parts only? If so it makes sense. If not - as Cliff points points out. Timing chain? Makes sense, and the quote seems to be in the anticipated ball park. Of course we don’t know where this quote comes from - local garage, independent etc. If this were mine, I would be looking up a localish independent and getting a second quote there. This will give you some peace of mind regarding the first quote. Now then Jonny, there’s one factor to consider which is more important than how much it’s going to cost you to have it fixed. That is how much longer than the 8K miles is this going to last before this chain (which has grizzled for a long time) decides it’s finally had enough and jumps and wrecks the engine. I don’t know? Something has to be done with some urgency, and I would say absolute minimum/no use. Of course, this is just my opinion, and it might be an over reaction, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I would not simply replace the battery without first getting its efficiency checked. Halfords do battery checks - but ensure you have taken the car for a 10/20 mile run before having it checked. Would I buy a replacement battery from Halfords? For me, the answer would have 2 letters. AGM battery testing may be more complicated than testing normal batteries. I don’t know, so it would be wise to ask questions first, to ensure freedom from electronic ..... ups! Of course, you can revert to your first intention and change it anyway. If you do decide to buy a new one then take all the information off the existing one - including dimensions ( be careful with terminals if using a metal tape) so that you are certain you are buying the correct replacement. New one might have to be coded in?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mahi, Oh dear, not another one. When is someone going to form a group of owners affected by this serious issue and set about a co ordinated ‘attack’ via. the media? Continental vs. Michelin? Please bear in mind that I drive a humble A3 which came fitted with Michelin from new. We don’t go haring around corners so I cannot comment on roadholding comparisons which may be far more important when driving an A7, but I believe the Michelin were outlasting (mileage wise) the current Conti Contact 5 - I think it’s 5. In other words, although the Contis may be cheaper to buy than Michelin, you may eventually get more miles for your £ with the Michelin. Michelin more noisy when they get worn? I think so. I also have Contis on a large non-Audi saloon and find them fine. Hopefully others will offer advice on equally suitable alternatives. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, My stab at this is that it’s associated with a below par battery on your 6 year old car. Stop/ start systems puts tremendous strain on batteries, starters etc. and I guess its reasonable to expect that the original batteries will no longer last as long as they did - so 6 years may be about it for anticipated service life. No doubt you will appreciate that if it is the battery, then it has to be replaced with one which will run a stop/start system - the battery will usually be of the AGM type. In my book, if you do need to replace it then spend wisely, and get a good branded one such as Varta/Bosch. If you shop around, you should find one of these brands for much the same price as an ordinary/unknown brand. Tayna Batteries currently have good deals on some types (no connection). Don’t be too disappointed if it is the battery after 6 years. A family member has just replaced the battery on a 3.5 year old ‘prestige’ vehicle due to stop/start becoming inoperative! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonny, Cost? Difficult for me to gauge this if it is an hydraulic tappet/s. I would be starting to think in terms of 5hours plus as a a guide, but I could be well out. Belts? If this is not belt associated, then I would still be concerned about this aspect on a 12 year old car. It would be a case of ignore at your peril. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Billy, Sorry to hear you are in difficulties with the car. Can we take it the clutch doesn’t slip? i.e. the revs. do not increase before the car gains speed. Difficult to diagnose at a distance, but could be anything within the clutch, from the flywheel (probably a dual mass unit), to the clutch plate friction material starting to break up, to an issue with the clutch release bearing. What mileage has this covered Billy, and do you have service history for this 4 year old car? Sorry to bring potentially bad news, but if this is indeed clutch associated, then it’s a gearbox out job to investigate. If it turns out the clutch (and possibly/probably) the flywheel did need to be replaced, then you will find Audi parts will be expensive, and you might be wise to consider good quality aftermarket parts. Please come back to us if so, for advice on what brand of parts to use. Is ‘the garage’ going to be an Audi dealer, an independent, or a trusted local garage? Incidentally, did you buy the car from a dealer? Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stewart, Perhaps being over cautious, but if it were mine, I would be getting a second independent diagnostic check on this before investing funds in replacing the ABS unit. You don’t say what warning lights are showing, but some of the lights can warn of fairly simple issues such as dirty/damaged wheel sensors, which are comparatively cheap to replace. Having said all of that, some earlier Audi models did suffer from premature issues with the ABS unit, and VAG were then supplying what is simply described as a part unit, containing the valve assemblies as I recall. On the simple things first principle:- When was the brake fluid last changed? Sometimes a good flush through of fresh fluid can help. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, With all these electrical issues associated with the boot area, my first port of call would be examine the harness in the flexible section that runs from the body into the tailgate. This tends to get a hammering due to regular opening and closing of the boot, which leads to some of the cables actually snapping. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. If you suspect you have earth issues then just run a temporary lead from a good earth point in the luggage compartment to a similar good earthing point on the tailgate.

Hello Jonny, Thanks for coming back on this. Chain and belt? You could be right, but why both. - unless the belt is something to do with a VVC arrangement, otherwise that’s a new one on me. Sorry, but I cannot download your sound. Hydraulic tappets? In my book, these are generally noisy on first start up, and either the noise clears or it stays. Again new one on me for it to start when hot, but whoever has told you that may have different experience. If this car is fitted with a belt, and you do not have any evidence to suggest it has been changed in 12 years, then you have been on borrowed time for some time - particularly since the car has been telling you it’s got a head ache for 8k miles! Great that it’s booked in. Personally I be giving it a rest in a dark room until it sees the doctor. Thanks for offering to let us know what happens. It will be interesting to know what it is - more so now I can’t open your recording. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lisa, Sorry to hear of your issues. I think you raise a good point, and in my opinion (despite your understandable frustrations) you need to give the dealer a reasonable chance of sorting this out in a reasonable time, and having to keep it for a couple of days would seem reasonable enough. Looking ahead. Can they sort it to your satisfaction? If so, everything is fine, if not, then is the time to consider rejecting the car. If it were mine, I would be keeping the dealer on my side, and allowing them whatever reasonable time they need to correct the issue (providing they give you a comparable courtesy car) and I would not be antagonising the situation by any mention of rejecting it - at this stage. A reasonable attitude with such things from the beginning is always best policy in my book. If it cannot be sorted reasonably within say a couple of weeks then indeed you might like to follow the line of formally rejecting the vehicle, but personally I would be using the time to seek professional advice on how you best go around that procedure. Citizens Advice should be able to help. Keeping it on a positive note, let’s hope it doesn’t come to that. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lesley, Sorry to hear of your problem. Are you actually saying you would prefer/be happier with the old run out model with the extras you want, rather than the new model which doesn’t have some of the said extras? If so, would you consider a possible middle ground by buying a virtually new old model? Surely the dealer would be able to source something along those lines. Deposit? Salesmen will take an order for whatever you specify, if it is available as an option at the time of ordering - a secured deal is a deal! Re. getting your deposit back:- as I see it, although deposits are essentially non refundable, in your case, they cannot supply what you ordered, so I believe they are legally obliged to refund your deposit. Citizens Advice should help you in this respect, but I would suggest simply visiting them and not leaving without a cheque or proof of a bank transfer. Could I ask Lesley, what do you now intend to do now that you know you can’t purchase a new example of the old model with the car with the coolant extras you want? Not sure if any of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonny, Sorry to hear of your concerns, but I think you are right in being concerned when you hear any untoward new noises. I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s always difficult to comment on noises unheard, and all I can say is that if this were me in your situation, I would be booking the car in to your trusted local garage without delay, and getting their on the spot diagnosis. Not that this is going to help, but usually, noises are generally more apparent when the engine (and the oil) is cold. Are you sure this 1.6 is running on a timing chain rather than a belt? If so - a complete guess out of the blue for the about reasons - possibly a chain tensioner, but that’s no more than a guess. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on if no one else on here has experienced the same noise and had it diagnosed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello J, Please do not get the impression that this forum doesn’t want to offer reasonable advice, but I would defend anyone’s opinion that it is virtually impossible to precisely value a specific c£15K car to within a +/- £500. In my experience, cars are seldom bought absolutely on price, and there will be situations where where a potential buyer would not be interested in a specifically spec’d example - if they were to ‘give it away’ so to speak. Alternatively, there will be vehicles which would entice a buyer to ‘pay over the odds’. Anyway, you seem well equipped - in terms of figures- to enter into price negotiations on a specific vehicle of interest, and all I can suggest is that you do that at the time you actually find the car you simply want to own. The negotiations will depend on the way you intend to finance this purchase, and that has more influence over minor price reductions than might be thought. Cash is no longer king, but finance (with salesman’s commission) is. Only you will discover what will be an acceptable ‘discount’ when you are sealing the deal, and that discount will vary from example to example, and indeed other factors for the same example at another time - e.g. how long it’s been on stock etc. Good luck with your intended purchase J, but it might be worth remembering the saying that quality remains long after the price has been forgotten. Also, there’s far more to be concerned about with the purchase of a secondhand vehicle that the absolute price itself. Good luck in concluding a good deal. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Jon, Now we need to do some maths relating to larger diameter wheels and lower profiles - thanks for that! I will get back to you. Wider tyres and not fouling anything? Sorry cannot help on that. I guess you are aware that you are going to lose some ride comfort in moving to a lower profile tyre. Are you happy to compromise that for some fancier looking wheels? I guess yes. Kind regards, Gareth.