Magnet

Hello Mark. It’s always obviously more difficult to detect leaks with cabriolets than it is with saloons. Three things to suggest:- Is this roof associated or not? Cover the dashboard to top of seat level with a dry clean light coloured sheet and see it this gets wet/damp. Mirrors can often be another source of water ingress. If both of these fail, it would be worth lifting the carpet on the driver’s side and looking for where the water comes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I most certainly agree with you Paul regarding main dealer prices vs. aftermarket. The ‘unjustified in loading the price so heavily’ must take into consideration all the (very substantial) overheads in terms of commercial rates, employment, and general running costs associated with such a commercial undertaking. If it was so simple as selling price equals vast profits then I guess we would be all running dealerships. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Can we take it you are attempting to order aftermarket shock absorbers rather than VAG parts? If so, you are unfortunately going to continue this confusion since aftermarket supplier’s websites can lead you to alternatives - as you are finding. Spending extra on VAG parts may not be considered justifiable, but you are likely to gain better service life - and the correct parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Apologies in advance, but are you really ordering a new car following ‘a real problem’ on a test drive example? If so, I guess Audi could be entitled to dismiss a claim for ‘unsuitable for purpose’ - as Wooks63 was considering to do- since you knew it’s pitfalls before ordering. Ref. fitting a box of tricks to overcome this issue, straight away brings to mind invalidating the warranty. None of this is where I would want to be spending my money, in anticipation of discontents. Good luck if you do go ahead. Kind regards, Gareth.

I don’t think it boils down to the frequency of breakdown, but all to do with the ‘quality’ of service when you need it, and above all, ensuring the level of service you buy is adequate for your needs - irrespective of cost. Cheaper ones using local garages - don’t see anything wrong with that, and at least they are unlikely to have sales targets to meet with such items as batteries etc. as some of the major players do! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, Business or private sale? This isn’t really going to help you at all, but in the absence of any other replies to date, as you probably know, these roof systems incorporate often flimsy micro switches - which fail. Sometimes you can actually see a broken switch, but I guess you’ve been there done that bit. Pardon my ignorance, but fabric roof or hard top sections? If fabric, there is a one man band company in Swansea ( not too far away) who fit replacement hoods, and I’m pretty sure he is clued up on most things that go wrong with these. Alternative is the dreaded (unreliable?) plugging it in to the computer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Debbie, As far as I can see, breakdown cover (which is in fact an insurance based cover) understandably varies as much as quotations for your normal car insurance - even when you compare apparent like for like cover. Personally, I would give up trying to understand why, and simply follow Trevor’s advice and first decide the level of cover which suits your needs. Basic cover would say simply cover you for roadside assistance, then you move on to recovery add-on options - which I’m sure you are aware of. To my mind, it’s the limitations of recovery option which is all important.Some will just transport the vehicle to the nearest garage, leaving it at the mercy of trying to control its repair from afar. Others will transport you and the vehicle to a place of your choice - usually your trusted local garage. One other point I would make is to beware of ‘cheaper entry’ offers which usually come with an automatic renewal. That’s where the sting cuts in! I know RAC do that, and all their business is based on an automatic renewal system. If it were me, I would decide the level of cover you want, and just go with the best deal that comprehensively provides that - having read the all important small print exclusions. Don’t bother to try to work out why A is cheaper than B. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hello Graham. Not sure how long you have been with Autoaid, but as you say, it was based on paying for your breakdown assistance and then claiming the money back. I could be wrong, but I have a feeling you don’t now have to pay and reclaim - they now operate as others do, and sort out and pay for the assistance.

Hello Ronnie, Sorry to hear of your issue with this vehicle. I’m sure everyone would sympathise with you, and would be equally miffed at spending the money you have. Not wanting to pry into your circumstances, but if there were any finance connected with this purchase, then that would be a first port of call. As I see it, the next move must rest with you, and if I was in your position, then I would simply reject the vehicle without further delay, and return it for a full refund. You could also take advice from the likes of the Citizens Advice or similar organisation. Not sure if you are ROI or NI, and if ROI, what the procedures are. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on from here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steven, It’s not too difficult, and it is indeed a quick process - from application, to be granted the new personalised number. The selling agency where you bought it? - will talk you through it, but effectively such numbers are usually on a Retention Certificate, and once you have this, you can actually do it all on line by just checking the DVLA site. DVLA-speak tends to make it sound complicated by using terms such as nominee and grantor etc. but i’m sure you will find your way through it. I’m pretty certain if you do it online then you will immediately have the necessary print out facility to be able authorised for getting the new plates made up. V5 will follow in a few day. Don’t forget to notify your insurers. Some may charge an admin. fee for this. If by any chance you are buying this number privately then personally I would not pay any money until you have seen a Retention Certificate, which will cost the seller around £110 to acquire, and reasonably the seller would expect you to contribute the £80 transfer fee portion, which allows you to transfer the number to your car without further cost. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

I have a similar issue with a 16 year old non-Audi, and I’ve just found out I can literally over fill it ( does not cut out on nozzle) to the point where petrol will leak out. Yet to be investigated but believed to be filler hose /breather associated. Still it has just provided enjoyable transport for a 700 mile round trip to Brittany. Kind regards, Gareth.

Typo:- ...should be looking at......

Hello Leigh, When you say your mechanic changed an abs sensor and it worked for a while, can you let us know what make sensor was used? Many aftermarket sensors can behave in this fashion - being short lived. If not using a genuine VAG one, then the only alternative I would use would be Bosch. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, In my book 13.8v is too low, and you should be looked not at around 1v more than that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Trevor, Is the fuel filler on the passenger side by any chance?

Hello Trevor, Always difficult to suggest causes for such things - which can be numerous - and you really only have a chance of sorting it by getting it examined - as you are doing. Perhaps some additional information may help the garage, such as:- worse after fill up, or simply putting some fuel in, when stationary or when running, how long does the smell last etc. etc. Personally, I would be leaving the answers to some of these with the garage who is going to look at it. Perhaps you could let us know what they come up with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kay, Apologies, but I cannot help you directly with this, but the cynical view on diagnostics is that it sometimes (regularly?) does not differentiate between causes and effects, and often shows the fault to be component x, but x is in fact not at fault, but is receiving a ‘wrong signal’ from component y. Obviously, this can result in changing the apparent faulty component but not sorting the issue, and so spending ‘unwisely’. It then becomes a matter of experience and (expensive) trial and error to home in on the actual offending component. Sometimes it’s cheaper in the long run to get such things sorted at specialist who will have access to replacement parts which can be tried if necessary. For diesels, I always favour a trusted local diesel specialist ( ask for recommendations from your local taxi drivers). Sorry this isn’t positive, but it might save you money in the long run. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Sorry, I missed the bit about warranty. Not sure what the warranty period actual is, and this might be a pessimistic view, but the warranty normally applies only when the car has full dealer service history where the paint inspection part has been assessed and filled in. Even then, the paint thickness will first be measured, to assess whether the panel has been resprayed, and if so, this is likely to affect the warranty. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, Obviously you will know more about whether the threads in this sump are acceptable or not, since you have worked on it. If you have renewed the sump plug and washer, and it still leaks at that point, then something must be wrong there. How wrong? Could be wrong enough for the plug to decide to part ways with the sump and deposit all your oil - wrecked engine! You have to decide on the risk here. Continue topping up OK? See above, plus the fact that oil leaks = potential for MOT failure, so probably no debate there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, Seems fairly simple to me:- you first buy a genuine new sump plug and washer and try that, carefully noting whether the old plug screws out nicely and the new one does the same. If you have any ( in caps) concerns about the threads, then you must ( in caps) renew the sump, if you want to avoid losing your oil and wrecking your engine. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Mike, It’s difficult to come up with an explanation without actually seeing the problem or seeing a photo. Unbroken bubbling can be associated with filled-over rust ( worse possible case), through rusting - but not yet broken the paint, or in its least worrying form, micro blistering due to actual paint application issues. Each has characteristic sizing, from larger to smaller as each possible issue has been described. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, One could be excused for thinking this could be a thermostat problem, but it first needs to be establish what the actual/dynamic running temperature is, to eliminate a possible faulty temperature sender. You could ‘simply’ change the thermostat ( in my book only using a genuine VAG part) - or get it changed anyway. This may solve the problem and will save diagnostic costs, but a gamble it will be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, I think you are tending to suspect this is linked to battery/ supply problems despite the battery being relatively new. Bosch and the S5 ( 5 year warranty) should be a near top of the range reliable power source, so it would be understandable to assume all would be well there. Please don’t quote me, but check for yourself, but I think! I read that there might have been a greater than average problem period with some of these - but I could be wrong. Type 015? Numbering might well have changed, but I thought 015 was a near match for the old 038 which was a small output battery, and would be totally inadequate for your car. Have you double checked what the correct battery should be for your car, and confirmed the one currently fitted is indeed correct? Let’s assume it is..... If so, if this were mine, I would be starting by getting the battery efficiency checked. Make sure it’s fully charged before having it tested. Halfords test these. Whether you buy from them if a new one is needed is a personal choice. It would also be well worth checking all associated main earth connections, but I would go at this one step at a time - first step would be to eliminate - or otherwise - the battery being at fault. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Euro Car Parts - even with their frequent special discount offers :- seldom the most competitive source??

Hello Dan, Sorry to hear of your issue. Despite your good description and the video - not wishing to appear unhelpful - but I think there would only be a very slim chance of correctly identifying the source of the noise without actually examining the car. If this were mine, I would be nipping the car down to a trusted local independent tyre supplier - as a start - and seeking their advice. The vibration through the steering wheel is typical of wheel balance problems, but personally, I would not assume this is the cause without first having the wheel and tyre inspected. Such issues could be due to tyre damage or defects, so there would be some urgency in my book, in getting the car examined. ‘....the before I go buying parts’ bit is very meaningful, since if you cannot personally identify the offending issue and you do not seek independent advice, then it becomes obvious that there will be an increased potential to be spending unwisely. In a nutshell Dan:- I think your best chance of a correct diagnosis rests with getting the car inspected locally. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aaron, When you check on the cost of clutch parts with Audi, then you are unlikely to buy genuine parts - even when you take into account the reimbursement on your returned old components. If you decide to go down the route of aftermarket parts, then the only ( in caps.) make I would use would be LUK, with no exceptions in my book. Shopping around - even on EBay should lead you to be able to buy LUK kits at prices competitive enough not to bother with any other aftermarket make anyway. It’s always worth investing the DIY savings on the best of parts. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.