Magnet

It’s born of cost of part, cost of plugging it in to the computer system, and the likelihood of charging the one hour’s minimum labour at c£100/hour + VAT, Cliff. Great isn’t it? In my days (and dare I suggest yours?), life was so simple and dependable, and you just stuck a key in a lock and turned it unlock/lock the door. Once inside you turned a little handle and the window went up and down. Why is everything so complicated by so called automation. Have we become too lazy to carryout these tasks ourselves? The motor manufacturers seem to think so, and they must be right, since owners now go into raptures about owning a car with ‘T line spec. and Pink Edition’! Well you know what I mean. Come back Morris 1000 simplicity, dependability, and ‘fixability’. The opinion of an aging mind Cliff. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, Very sorry to hear you have been experienced issues with this brand of tyres, and my opinion - for what it is worth - remains the same as recommended previous affected parties should follow. ‘I’m wondering what my best options are....’. If I was in your situation then I would read through the posts, and in the absence of any alternative advice from forum members, then I would follow my earlier recommended actions. To repeat that advice would bore, but if you are still in doubt after reading, then of course come back. If you just wait for Audi/Dunlop to do something without pressure from yourself, then unfortunately you may not get very far. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, At least you now know the on-cost to you. Re. where is the other key? It is not uncommon for the second key to go astray with secondhand vehicles - particularly where it might previously have been a company car which was simply handed back at the end of the lease,and the leasing company were not too bothered about chasing it. How many owners has this car had? Before committing or collecting the car, it would be worth making contact with the last keeper ( while the dealer still has that information on the current V5). Always worth doing, and the source of valuable information. They might just have the spare key in a draw! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Suhail, More a couple of ‘may be s’ rather than a claim to fixing the problem:- Remove the fuse, then spray some genuine contact cleaner (should be available at your local motor factors) into the fuse socket and wiggle the fuse a few times, in a attempt to ensure the contacts in there are good and clean. Test for continuing problems at this stage. If this doesn’t solve it then peel back the flexible rubber harness covering around the harness linking the body to the tailgate, and inspect each wire for damage or splitting. It is not uncommon for cables to split due to flexing when the hatch is opened and closed - most of the damage actually occurring during the cold winter months when the cables are less flexing. The above are meant as eliminating simpler possibilities before moving on. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, I agree with Tobias - but no doubt you have that in hand/have already registered with some of these agencies. For what it is worth, my experience is that the agencies quote you optimistic ‘return to you figures’ with entice you to register with them. Once registered, they will suggest you pay for advertising in specialist publications etc. I would suggest you set reasonable expectations on what you will be prepared to accept for this number, and this should be based on the (small) percentage of owners which cover the likely market for it. Personally, I would also be advertising it on this forum - under For Sale- but including your asking price rather than leaving it open ended with ‘open to offers’. Good luck with its sale. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andy, If you are indeed picking up a good earth, then it looks like you may have a voltage stabiliser type set up feeding into these gauges, and this could be giving you your intermittent fault. You will need to find a wiring diagram and check. Enjoy the trip. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, In the absence of any other replies, my views are that -as with all extended warranties- the devil (exclusions) are in the detail, and when paying a sum of money that many people pay to actually buy a means of transport, I would say it would be well worth spending an hour reading through the terms/conditions/ exclusions before embarking on paying this premium. It would be a great shame if you did ‘invest’ that amount of money for so called peace of mind, only to find your offending problem was not covered by this warranty. Boring to check it out, but it depends on how you see the importance of spending that amount of money. As a matter of interest, does this premium cover the cost of the (annual?) service as well? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Apologies for appearing to be asking more questions and double checking. When you are connecting your meter to the plug connection, can we take it you actually have the plug disconnected from the sender and are are putting the prod of your meter into the disconnected end of the cable that would fit onto the sender unit? Also, could you run a length of wire directly back to the battery earth terminal rather than depend on a separate earthing point for your meter. All a bit pedantic, but need to be clear. Have you managed to find a wiring diagram yet? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I have a fuel gauge on a MG TF which is reluctant to read over 1/2 full even when full, and I’m really not confident on its ability to read empty when it is! We are off to Brittany in a few weeks, so it’s goung to be regular top ups to ensure it’s full!

Hello Andy, Where are you connecting the earth (-ve) prod of the meter to? Are you sure it’s a good earth? If yes, I take it you are taking the reading with the terminal disconnected from the sender . Kind regards, Gareth.

The original poster doesn’t seem to have been on the forum since March, but it’s interesting to note that these 1.6 engines are notorious for burning oil. Incase it helps anyone, our over 150k miles 2006 -owned from new- doesn’t use any oil between annual oil changes. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Again incase it helps anyone else, white exhaust smoke (petrol engines) from fully up to temperature engines, translates to water vapour being burnt - not oil- in my book. Burning engine oil will result in blue smoke.

Hello Robin, I can understand your concerns, and if the motor factor ones are not for sports suspension -and yours has such suspension- then they are not the correct ones. I have come across this with other marques in the past. Understandably, aftermarket suppliers manufacture replacements to maximise the general demand, and will ignore the lesser variants. Aftermarket vs. dealer original equipment? Again I can understand cost will be an influencing factor, but I would question it being the controlling factor. In my book, if what is desirable cannot be afforded now, then best to wait until it is - safety allowing. It’s generally worth spending once and spending wisely, and if your current shock absorbers have been on the car from new, then the add on cost of buying genuine replacements over aftermarket ones, will be negligible over that number of years to come. Apologies if I’ve got the wrong end of any stick here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Diana, Please do not commit to any further expenditure or testing on this car without having it assessed by a diesel specialist - forget Audi, forget Audi independents, and just depend on a recommended trusted diesel specialist - they know their way around these engines. If it were mine, I would be just getting it recovered there. As I said, I would not worry about the ESP light for now. You could find this is due to nothing more than a now run down battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Sorry to hear of your problem with the car. ‘Is this something I should be worried about’? In a nut shell Peter, you (should be in caps) should not be worried about this, but your action should be to worry the supplying dealer with the problem to ensure it’s resolved to your satisfaction without delay while they suplly you with a courtesy car - while they do. This could be associated with a lean fuel mixture, but you really don’t have to concern yourself about the reason, but just making sure it’s resolved to a reliable conclusion. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Diana, Sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. The fact that the issue has now escalated to the vehicle not starting marks a significant point in its diagnosis, and should make it easier to sort out a primary cause of this. I note you refer to ‘dealer’ in your record of what has been done, and can I ask if the work has been carried out at an Audi dealer? In my opinion, the resolution of faults with an 11 year old diesel are best entrusted to a local diesel specialist rather than a main or independent dealer, since the in depth experience rests there. If this were mine, I would be enquiring of the taxi drivers at your local rank as to where the best local-to-you diesel specialist is ( these chaps depend for their living on the services of such specialists) and entrust thevwork to them. Porous cylinder head? I’m with Cliff on his side of the argument, but ‘porous’ can also apply where the coolant chambers become porous - very rare - and in that respect it would be anticipated that the car would lose coolant - does it? I too think this is in effect the result of ‘we don’t know what is wrong with it’. ESP? - electronic stability programme- in effect a loss of ‘traction control’ and is often linked to an ABS braking issue - although not always. This should be subject of a separate investigation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, This might (only just might) be fitted with the much earlier voltage stabiliser which damps the needle movements. If it is, then the symptoms you quote were not untypical of a problem with these small replaceable units which were usually fitted on or near the fuel gauge. Of course, I could be completely wrong and the gauges are the later electronic ones, but worth an investigation of the wiring diagram. Also I would not ignore the possibility of a fuse related issues with intermittent faults. It is often assumed that since the fuse is intact that the circuit is fine, but it is not uncommon to find corrosion around in the fuse contact area, and it’s well worth spraying the fuses with contact cleaner while wiggling the actual fuses - be careful to keep on contact spray away from paintwork. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Simple things first:- The car is designed such that the wipers/ washers do not work if the bonnet is not closed, so could - just could ( only maybe could) be a false signal that the bonnet is open when it is not. Sorry but not sure where that ‘bonnet closed’ switching is, but you might find it if you look. ABS/ traction control light? Probably sensors as you say and yes replacing them all is an option - currently around £87 per wheel from Audi - um! Aftermarket? You may be lucky with them, but experience has shown that the cheap ones work - sometimes and maybe for not long anyway. My preferred option would be to plug it in and find out which wheels are at fault. Hope some of this helps, or it could be worth investing in an hour’s time with a trusted local autoelectrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, I too am very much with Cliff, and never really did like ramps. Annual oil change on the A3 undertaken a couple of months back by the Cliff method, and I can assure you I have long since been classed as too old to to be laying under cars, but...! Metal undertray - that’s a new one on me. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Sorry to hear of your unfortunate event - must have ended up rather expensive with having to replace a broken window and have the other trim damage to contend with. No doubt they removed the undertray to get at the oil sensor ?? -since they could not have opened the bonnet. As annoying as it is to have to spend even more funds to replace the oil level sensor, it wouldn’t surprise me that the AA will retain their stance that they only disconnected it, and the argument is likely to simply go on. It might just be less frustrating and deal with that ‘damage’ as well as the more costly?- other damage. When you say...it is bust..... are you sure, or is it a question of simply reconnecting but having to now plug the car in to accept the reconnection? Worth enquiring about. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Guessed that would be the considered opinion. I think, as with all marques, and engines within those marques, some use some oil, others don’t, so manufacturers cover their posteriors by quote relatively high consumption figures. Was that Gareth at the Bridgend branch by any chance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks a Paul, If this were mine, I would be first inspecting all engine and gearbox mountings to ensure they are serviceable. If they are, then it’s really a case of taking a trip to a trusted automatic gearbox specialist and getting an opinion on what is wrong here. Sometimes (at that mileage) the gearbox can benefit from a fluid and filter change, but I am sure they will advise you on this possibility. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Manual? If so, can you feel any pulsing at the clutch pedal as the clutch starts to bite? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Having the original two, but one not currently working, I have tried all methods found inc. using second one in the lock etc. It sounds as if you only have one key/remote and the remote is not working?? Guess you’ve changed the fob battery without success? I’ve resigned myself to having to get this dealer-sorted, but fortunately the ‘spare’ key will unlock and start the car, so no rush on my part. As Trevor says, it sounds like it’s likely to need dealer/ specialist involvement, unless anyone else can help with a magic procedure. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Mike from the Homeland, Sorry, but I do not have experience of the ‘average’ Q5’s oil consumption, but probably someone will indeed reply with helpful experience relating to their’s. I would anticipate that if you consult the handbook ( which no doubt you have done) it is likely to confirm that the oil consumption you are finding is ‘within limits of expectation’ for the model. Some of course, use very little, but as with other manufacturers, VAG cover their bums and will quote limits of acceptability. Just a couple of points:- you say you drive this quite hard, ( and it’s difficult to assess what this translates to) but have you tried a period of driving it ‘normally’ and assess whether this makes any difference. Oil grade and last changed? Have you had the nice folks at Mr. Sinclair’s to give opinion on this? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, I notice you have re-posted this under a different heading, and having done so, let’s hope you will have more responses than last time you posted it. My belief is that you really want to have this car ‘rolled back’ as you call it, despite being told that the recall has not presented any issues, and you might hopefully find someone on here who might agree with your logic. I really hope you do. Meanwhile, my solitary opinion remains - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, and don’t worry about it. I just wonder that if you do indeed follow your wish and get someone to play with it, and you subsequently find it is no longer free from issues, what will you intend to do then? Indeed you will then have something to worry about. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Sorry to hear of your problem with the car, and I just wonder if it would be worth you considering a secondhand pump, rather than selling the car as a potential non runner. Kind regards, Gareth.