Magnet

Hello Jim, Just wondering since you have re visited the forum, and we take it, read the responses so far, whether you have any comments. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, That’s an incredible drain time - pull of at least 7 amps! Not a parasitic drain, but more a monster eating your battery capacity! If it were mine:- I would recharge the battery and safely disconnect the plug on to the alternator before reconnecting the battery. Allow to ‘stand’ overnight, and test battery condition again. Check make of battery. Report back on outcome.

Welcome Jim and thanks for joining, Apologies for hijacking Cliff’s responses , but I would be very wary of it being associated with a timing belt issue - tensioner maybe - although I confess I haven’t listened to it- hearing is shot. When was the timing belt assembly and water pump last renewed? If you don’t know, then I would be treating this investigation with the utmost urgency. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daniel, Clifford has asked if you had the new battery coded to the car. Could you let him have an answer please. In addition, 14v is marginally low - would prefer 14.5 ish - but that should not account for the battery drain in isolation, but just could ( in caps) perhaps point to a partial drain through the alternator itself. If you fully charge the battery and leave it connected, how long does it take to get to a point where you know it’s low enough not to be able to start the car? What make of new battery did you buy as a matter of interest? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Dave, Shame the OP Chris never bothered to clarify his situation.

Many thanks Mark, Did you sort it be renewing the defective parts of the filter housing?

Thanks Neil, Sounds good reason. Let’s hope someone on here has come up with a reasonably priced solution, since I fear Audi will damage your wallet. I still wonder ‘how far out’ the 2012 version will be in practice. I guess it will be resorting to phone in holder attached to the screen otherwise. Kind regards, Gareth.

You know Cliff, it starts on the first press of the starter button - who claims press button starters are new and ‘posh’? It ticks over like the proverbial watch, and does what is asked of it, without any complications of ECUs, remote locking, electric everything, and many other things that you don’t need and hope won’t go wrong!

Possibly the water you can hear when you press the rear washer button is soaking the motor and associated bits. Have you had the panel off to check?

Ok Ricky, It seems you a must be posting on/looking at other forums, and you’ve still got your knickers in a twist. Just treat it one step at a time:- Get a proper compression test carried out then report back. Don’t bother finding the reason for varying compression pressures until you have established that there are variations. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I didn’t want to spell it out, since I didn’t feel I would need to, but the purpose of directing you to the ‘ Please react to help and advice….’ was that when you had read it, you might see it fit to carryout what it suggests - acknowledge the help you are being given. Instead, you ‘Like’ the tread, but don’t bother to act on it! Good isn’t it?

Have you done a search on this topic Dan. If you do, you should find reference to a pressure sensor.

The solution will rest with an Audi dealer Neil, but at cost! Justification of that cost will depend on how frequently you visit unknown territory, and the likelihood of how the road layouts have changed significantly over the last 12 years - in your case. Perhaps you could let us know what you decide once you have visited Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello GR ( can you help us by letting us know if you omitted to enter your proper mane on the Profile, or you did, and it hasn’t shown-?) Welcome. Perhaps a couple of points to consider:- If you bought the car from a dealer, and it is fitted with Sat Nav ( as you confirm) then it is the dealer’s responsibility to ensure it works - unless you accepted it in knowledge that it wasn’t. Before considering to any alternative costly options, it might be worth buying a new reasonable quality SD card. Kind regards, Gareth.

Due to ‘Post and Run’ tactics (although -even worse- has returned to read the reply, but not answered questions asked of her) this new member has been warned that all future posts will require authorisation before being displayed. Moderator.

OK Ricky - glad we’ve been able to be of assistance. Could you do us a kindness and:- Have a read of the thread ‘Reacting to help and advice given’ under New Members section. (Second time of asking!) Also give us an answer to where in the U.K. you are. (Again second time of asking!) Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Really sorry to hear of your expensive issue, and can well respect the economics of it. Re. Sachs:- Am I right in thinking they have amalgamated (or similar) with LUK? I think it’s worth Googling for the appropriate phone contact for their Technical chaps and asking there. Being pessimistic, I think you might find it’s the DMF is the supply difficulty, since they may only be supplying VAG direct. Wonder if you would be kind enough to keep us posted on how things pan out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Neil, and thanks for joining. Have you had a quote from Audi? Have you done a Google search on alternatives - including EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Salim, Neither of the posters have been on here for some time. I suggest you send them a PM. Many thanks.

Personally, I’ve never experienced much ‘improvement’ hot/cold on a good engine. Remove all plugs, isolate ignition and fuel feeds, hold accelerator to floor. As long as your test is consistent for each cylinder, then any differences in compression should be meaningful.

Thanks Rickie, I’m getting 110 on a 92 year old car with a compression ratio of less than 6:1!

Hello Ricky, We notice you have returned to the forum since you have had a response. Could you please do us a kindness and read the post entitled ‘ Reacting to help and advice given’ under New Members section. Thanks.

Thanks David, I’ve removed your e-mail address, since this is an open forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Apologies Gary, I now know Cliff was involved in requesting you to post in the appropriate section. There has been on going system updates within the last week, and I suspect you have fallen victim of a temporary glitch. I’m sorry you have found yourself involved in this Gary, at a time when new safeguards are being incorporated. Not to bore you further with this, but I always simply scan the ‘Latest Posts’ facility on the forum, rather than home in on a particular sub section. By this means I ensure I pick up all (in caps) new posts. It seems (if you have posted in another section) that the system hasn’t captured it in the ‘Latest Posts’, and by way of this post, I’m now asking Admin to look into this for us. Many thanks for your patience Gary. Kind regards, Gareth. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Ricky and thanks for joining. Obviously you have to home in on cause of the low compression on some cylinders - either worn bores/pistons &rings, or valve seating issues. What is the history of this vehicle? How long have you had it; mileage; what do you know of its earlier history; did it have this issue when you bought it; does it suffer from oil consumption etc. etc. Some will claim that if you inject a teaspoon full of oil down into the offending cylinder, any temporary increase in compression value indicates worm bores association rather than valve seating. I don’t completely buy into that theory since some of the oil will be sprayed onto the valve seats. Way forward as I see it:- check you have valve clearance on the offending cylinders, and the cam lobes are fine. If so, then it’s head/s off at assess and correct the issue. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ricky. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What part of the U.K. are you in?