Magnet

Could be worth trying the cleaner spray and connector wiggling as a start then Steve. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Steve, When you say it 'falls back' - just to confirm this is a sudden and complete lack of a gauge reading rather than a fall off over a very short period of time. If so, I would suspect an electrical contact issue here and it might be worth checking the connector/ wiring particularly associated with the temperature sensor. Worth a free coat of looking at before opening your wallet to pay for a diagnostic check. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, As I see it, you have 2 possible issues in terms of simply spraying your current ones:- You will need to remove the ( chrome effect?) Audi roundal logo - if fitted - and if you don't want the logo to be oversprayed black. I would guess you run a fair chance of breakage, since the manufacturer woukd not expect anyone to remove these. Second problem:- I'm yet to find a true black aerosol - they are virtually all a 'dirty' black, trending towards a rather browny black. That may not matter to you, but it's worth being aware of. It would also be advisable to prime them with a primer suitable for plastics. I would expect the wheel refurbishers preferred not to spray them since they too woould obviously have difficulty with not spraying over the rounals. Easiest and most reliable way out? - As Steve says. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lynne, Sorry to hear of your problems. My stab at it - based on it being unlikely to be individual fuses since there are a number of circuits affected - would obviously be to consider one 'control' which is common to all the affected circuits. I might be completely wrong, particularly due to the age of the car, but I would ask, are the electrics controlled by a 'body control unit'? i.e. a BCU (similar concept to ECU with 'engine control unit'). Perhaps the car is too old for that - I don't know- but no doubt someone else on here will be far more familiar with this than I am. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, As Steve says, there shouldn't be/isn't, any problem associated with cancelling your order and having your full deposit refunded, since they appear to be unable to complete the contact they set up with you - within a reasonable timescale. You question whether the salesman's reply to your verbal? question is correct, and I would say there is a possibility (just a possibility) that his reply has been moderated by wishing to now complete a deal with you as soon as possible, rather than run the risk of you walking away. Of course, he may be correct, and the only way to get a more reliable/correct? update on this situation, is to write to Audi. I say write, (e-mail should do) rather than telephone since you are more likely to receive a considered and more accurate response. I seems Paul, that you too have been got at, in terms of the adverse publicity against diesels - and I can accept that it you have strong views on airborne pollution ( while we continue to burn literally 100s of thousands of aviation fuel per day without comment). The question I would ask is that if you were offered an engine which produces the same power output, has the capability of lasting at least 1.5 times as long as a petrol engine, and gives you an improved fuel consumption of approx. X 1.5, would you turn it down? The 'automatic' answer appears to be Yes. If it's an A5 petrol engined car you want, and if the salesman's response is correct, then the simple answer is you can't have one. Personally, I cannot see why a similar output diesel - which should be available - is so far out of the question as to result in not having the model at all. OK, the depreciation on the diesel is likely to be greater due to this adverse publicity, but if the purchase is going to be via. a PCP ( as most seem to be now) then how much does it matter since the future 'sale' of the car will be guaranteed? Anyway Paul, apologies for rambling, but if it were me, I would be writing to Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I'm sorry to hear you are still at a loss, although suggestions have been made to try to establish the extent and possible origin of the issue. Now that you tell the thermostat was changed due to the same problem, rather than the normal thermostat mode of failure ( not opening, or opening too early), it really does put a different light on it, and demonstrates the importance of stating the historical detail. If you are genuinely at a loss then I run the high risk of boring by repeating:- get the actual running temperature checked at the point where the needle reads high. Find another garage and get that on-the-road check done. The investigation starting point really does rest there, unless you want to replace more parts in an attempt to try to eliminate the problem. Once we know the outcome, I'm sure others will follow with more advice. Meanwhile:- does the car loose any coolant? Is there any smoke from the exhaust when you carry out the following test?:- Take the car for a 10 mile run and get an assistant to rev. the engine to 2000rpm and hold it steady at this rev. for 2 minutes while you observe any smoke from the exhaust. It woukd be great if you could report back on this. Of course, there could be many causes of the problem, but the above should give a better indication of how to move forward. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Cliff, I'm very much with your logic if the defective thermostat fails to open when it should, but failure to open at all is only one mode of failure. The opening of a thermostat is controlled against a spring, and it's the ability to retain a constant force against that spring which might be in question here. It's all very well for the hot coolant to initially open the thermostat, but as we know, it has to remain fully open (against the constant pressure of the spring) at all times once the required temperature has been reached. It's its ability to do that that I am questioning here. Of course, I could be barking up wrong trees here, since James does not share with us the pre-new-thermostat history of any problems - if there were any- or indeed whether there was a thermostat fitted at all! In other words, did this car have some inherent other issues which were masked by the old thermostat? It is not uncommon for posts not to include all the useful detail which is necessary to offer some progressive advice - but we can only hope we do our best with what we are given. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Miles, This is confusing, since you say it gives problematic starts after standing for 2 hours - by which time it will have cooled down to ambient (cold this time of year) temperature. Yet it starts ....'perfect when cold'. Perhaps being pessimistic, but it sounds like it needs someone properly equipped to assess the spark quality and fuel delivery at points where it's reluctant to start. It could be due to so many causes, and the initial starting point would be to assess whether it's either spark quality or fuel associated - and move from there. If I have to have a guess at it (and a guess it would certainly be), I would be checking the cleanliness of the connections at the crank position and cam position sensors - simply to do something! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, In the absence of any other more helpful replies, you could try the following which might reset the TPS:- Switch the ignition on and press the accelerator peal to the floor and release. Repeat this press and release 5 times without switching the ignition off. Switch ignition off, wait about 10 mins. and start the car. This is the general method to reset them. Works on Audis? - but worth a try I guess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks like you now have an aftermarket thermostat fitted to your car - ...' purchased through my local parts shop'. If it were mine, I would not be replacing the sensor ....'process of elimination', but I would be first doing what I suggested - no need to repeat what that is. I would be preparing myself to invest in a genuine Audi thermostat. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK James, So what do you intend to do next to resolve this? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, It makes sense to return the tyres, since it's only then that an official investigation can begin on your (should be in caps.) tyres. If it were me, I would be putting everything in writing and certainly retaining a typical couple of the defective tyres incase you need to progress your complaint through other channels. i.e. Retain some evidence. It really surprise me that the media have not been involved. Not followed the given links, so apologies if the links points to media having been involved. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Personally, I would not suspect anything until you have actually measured the temperature at the point where the gauge reads high - in other words, confirmed it is high. There a cheap contactless thermometers which should give you an 'external' measurement, but others more familiar with modern technology! might confirm my belief that actual running temperature can be monitored by plugging in to the diagnostics- your trusted local garage might help there. If indeed the temperature is proved to fluctuate then I would first suspect the thermostat - yes, I know it's just been changed, but new cannot be taken serviceable, particularly if an aftermarket part was used. Do you know if a main dealer part was used, or an aftermarket? Hope some of the above helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, Sorry to be a pain, but you still don't tell us whether the car now starts without a 20 second cranking - so that side of it is sorted and you now only have the EML to sort. I think I'm simply repeating, but if it still has delayed starting, then I would be eliminating the glow plug wiring, before moving on to other suspected causes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Patrick, Very useful feedback, which will hopefully keep others on their guard. It seems scammers are rife. Only paying by Paypal (not giving card details) is the way to go. At least if something goes wrong then there should be a comeback. As I understand it Paypal charges are lower if the transaction is a 'gift' , but there isn't any hope of claiming to get your money refunded via. this category. If the transaction is listed as 'Goods & services' (or something like that) then the seller incurs an extra charge - which they like to pass on to the buyer. Always worth paying the extra. Apologies if this is common knowledge to all. Glad you got it sorted in the end. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Check your agreement - you should have a 'cooling off' period, and it may make more sense to cancel the sale rather run the risk of trying to make any claim to resolve a potential issue. The answer to the question of whether this particular car consumers oil or not, rests with the last registered keeper. Have you made contact with this person to find out the 'full background' about it before committing to buy? Most people will find my constant reference to this important step as being very boring but....... The full story about any vehicle rests there, and not necessarily with 'full service history' or not. Problem is, (understandably) most people fall in love with the look of a secondhand car, and the toys its fitted with, and we all know of phrase about love and blindness. Sorry to be blunt Richard, but if you have any concerns then now is the time to have them, and to make a decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Derek - for ..own... read OEM then - predictive text eh! Sorry to be a pain, but I'm still a bit confused. The readings you now give are very slightly different from the original post, so are these readings taken on the new plugs? If not, what are the readings now? Repeat question, but is the car now starting as it should? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Is Magnatec fully synthetic, or something like 'synthetic technology!' ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Hopefully someone else will be along and be definite, but I think (should be in caps!) it is fully synthetic 5w/30. But please, please double check. Halfords normally have on-the-counter reference books at the point where they sell their oil. The recommended grade of oil is also likely to have an Audi 'specification number', so be certain the one you choose satisfies this as well. IF it is 5/30 then I've been using a Quantum brand ( their Longlife 3) which I understand is/was recommended by VAG. It's currently available with some EBay sellers at around £25 for 5ltrs. Incase it helps, if I'm not using VAG filters then I will only use Mann as an alternative. Hope some of this helps, but please recheck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Derek, In the absence of other replies, I wonder if clarification on some of the following may help:- When you say '... changed all four with .....own...parts.' - is the ...own... a misprint for new? If new, or not, have you measured the resistance on the replacements? Unfortunately, assuming new = serviceable can indeed catch you out. Is it now starting quicker than it did? If all plugs now have an acceptable low resistance, have you checked the associated wiring? Not wishing to rub it in, but having bought a new glow plug module, due to the fault code pointing to that, demonstrates that fault codes may not actually show that the unit is faulty - it could be receiving an incorrect 'signal' from another associated component. It's the old cause and effect rule. If all the above check out correctly, then I guess the EML could indicate a separate fault, and if it were mine I would then be booking it for a check out by a trusted local diesel specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, I'm very much with Steve on this, and I'm sure this will be covered under warranty. We must take it that the coolant level in the reservoir is dropping - significantly? if some is finding its way onto the road. We guess you are topping it up with the correct type and concentration of coolant. Kind regads, Gareth. p.s. The radiator on our A3 became perforated (not due to damage) many years ago when fortunately it was just within the 3 year warranty. That as replaced at the dealer without charge.

Hello Patrick, I guess you've registered your 'want' with such companies as Partsfinder (I think it's named) etc. who are linked to breaker's yards. These breakers will contact you if they have a suitable engine. Apologies if you already know of this avenue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daren, I guess you mean 1000rpm rather than 10,000! If it's 1000 then this is fine - fast idle until it warms up a little. Once it has done that, then it should settle back to around 750rpm, as it does. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Since you cannot feel any vibration through the seat - only through the steering wheel - it would suggest some out of balance with the fronts. This vibration coming in at 80 mph is not typical of wheel balance - normally too high a speed ( you don't admit to breaking the law do you!?) However, if were mine, I would be doing two things before suspecting anything else:- Try another tyre retailer and ask them to balance the wheels - fronts in particular. And yes, get them to thoroughly ( in caps) examine wheels and tyres. I would not assume all good until proved to be so. Try swopping front wheels to back and back to fronts. You didn't mention any mixes of tyre makes on the car. Assumng that this 4/5 year old car is of average mileage and condition, then it would not be expected that things like drive shafts and bushes would be significantly worn - assuming damage has not occurred at some time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Can you also feel any vibration through the seat by any chance? Were the tyres (and wheels) thoroughly inspected before balancing? Are the tyres matched on the same axle, and hopefully the same on both axles? Aopologies for the questions. Kind regards, Gareth.