Magnet

Hello Alexander, ’...Roughly £550... does not sound a good start to me, since it is obviously an estimate rather than a quotation. ‘I’m guessing Audi will charge me a hella lot more’. As you say Alexander, that is a guess, and if it were mine, I would most certainly be seeking quotations from a couple of local Audi dealers to be sure, and as I said, they sometimes have offers on such major servicing items. I wouldn’t be afraid of asking if they have any offers - after(in caps) you have their initial quotation! You will not have any concerns about the parts used via. that route, but check it I’ll include the water pump renewal. Via. an independent? Many will only use VAG parts, but. More competitive price is fine, if there is a guarantee that it’s like for like on genuine parts. If this were mine, I would also be changing the auxiliary belt (unless there is service confirmation that it has been changed) since if this subsequently fails, it can wrap itself around the crank pulley for example, and cause the cam belt to jump a tooth. Oops moment! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the extra detail Alexander. Sounds good, and the original handbook pack is a always a good first port of call. However, the original 9 year old recommendation might well have changed now in light of more recent experience. Have you managed to discuss the parts-to-be-used situation with the garage who is going to do this for you? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Maris, Etch primer must always be used on non ferrous (non mild steel) metal, so yes, you should use it on alloy wheels. You can also use it on steel to achieve a better adhesion - but not essential. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alexander, There will always be a maximum mileage, and equally important a time limit in terms of years , so the schedule will advise x miles or x years - whichever comes first. If this were mine, I would be calling in to my local Audi dealer and asking them to confirm whether it has been done or not to set your mind at rest re. ‘... it looks as though it hasn’t been done..’ Even if their system does not record it being done, it is not necessarily confirmation that it hasn’t, since it could have been done by an independent or local garage. Unless you have confirmation it has been done, then I would be agreeing with the advice already given, ( although I don’t have any evidence to support the 60k mileage limit) but would be confirming with the Audi dealers what the current recommended schedule actually is. Do you intend to do this job yourself, or get it done for you? If the latter, then it would be worth checking costings with the dealer since they sometimes have offers on this work. If you are going to DIY it, or more importantly get a local garage to do it, then in my book the quality of parts used is as important as getting the job done. If not using (my recommendation) genuine Audi parts, then the only (in caps) alternative I would use would be Gates, but I would not (in caps) use their water pumps. It has to be a no-exception dealer only water pump in my book. If you want a contact for genuine main dealer parts at discount then just let me know. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Audi sounds a good starting point Josh, and if it turns out you don’t like the price, you could then try the breaker’s link on line system - such as Partfinder (I think it’s called) whereby you advertise your want for the then known-name part. Kind regards, Gareth.

Coach painting to the great finishes usually obtained - now that is an art Cliff. I’ve read quite a bit about it many years ago, but have never test my (lack of!) skill with it. Good on you for having done so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Maris, It’s unusual for this panel to have deteriorated to this condition in such a relatively short space of time. Some deterioration is not unusual, but the extent and severity is. If the panel is aluminium as you suspect, then the essential paint base coat onto the bare aluminium would need to be an etch primer not an ordinary primer. This primer does what it suggests, and actually adheres to the bare aluminium by acid etching into the surface. Subsequent paint coats can be via conventional primers, followed by the requisite number of coats of satin black. Of course, this is not the time of the year to do painting unless you have a garage, and even then the panel should be warmed up with a hair dryer. Some skill is necessary to arrive at an acceptable finish. Preparation back to bare metal is essential, as is careful masking to avoid marking the glass and rubber during preparation. Kind regards, Gareth. Sorry Cliff for repeating your advice while writing my response.

Hello Steven, I sympathise with your regret of parting with this car. DVLA used to pass on correspondence to current owners for a small fee (but not disclosing current ownership) but not any longer. If you have reason to believe it is currently/was in Bexhill on Sea, then it would be worth contacting the local weekly publications there, and placing a notice in the paper - along lines of ..’previous owner wishes to contact current owner’. Could be worth a try. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, Sorry I cant help you directly with the fuse location, particularly since you say the handbook doesn’t mention it. Strange. Can I take it the HRW doesn’t work, and you want to check the fuse? If so, a common failure point is a break/damage to the rear screen element which can be checked for continuity with a meter. Not sure if this helps, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, The original poster joined over 4years ago and last visited the forum just 2 days after he joined. I might be worth trying to send him a PM in the hope of getting some response. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies Nathan, Hadn’t noticed the car is virtually new, but I would not automatically guarantee the breather isn’t kinked? As I see it Nathan, you simply do not have to concern yourself with the reasons why - just request they put it right. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex, I cannot confirm your car should be running on 5w/30, and my advice would be to consult your handbook to confirm, or otherwise. Regarding the servicing schedule:- Are you going to service this yourself, or have the servicing done for you? If you are not going to do it, are you going to get it done at a main dealer, independent, or a local garage? Appreciating SteveQ recommended using GM oil back in 2017, I have stuck with the VAG (once recommended/still recommended?) Quantum Longlife 3 oil, which as its name suggests, is the oil used on a Longlife schedule. However, I change it every year - doing around your anticipated 8K miles. In view of the hard life your vehicle is going to get, I would recommend you do the same. This oil is available from a number of EBay sellers, including Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff (no connection). Filters? If not using VAG, I only use Mann or Bosch - without exception. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, OK. I’m now guessing the brake light switch must be OK since the high level light is working, but .......more than one brake light switch? Probably a daft question, but there is something in my mind about sort of multi functions on brake light switches - almost certain to be on automatics for example. Way forward:- ‘..... happy to pay treble time to get to the bottom of this....’ so invest in a couple of hours of services of a trusted local auto electrician. Alternative (temporary botch) - pick up a new feed from the working high level brake light. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathan, Couple of points here:- Nozzle not going all the way in- can be aggravated by distorted (belled out) nozzles on the fuel station pump. One of our supermarkets just didn’t seem to want to renew them even though most cars now have close tolerances at the nozzle entry point to prevent mis - fuelling. Guess this doesn’t apply in your case since you mention you have tried multiple stations. Other possibility:- kinked breather hose to the filler neck. Tried rotating the position of the trigger on the pump i.e. say 6, 9, 12 , 3 o’c? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Can we take it you have checked for good earths at the rear brake light units? If good:- You say you have checked all wiring for breaks - including stripping back the flexible rubber sleeving section where the wiring harness passes from the body, into the boot/hatch? Favourite place for breaks/partial breaks due to years of flexing, so always a suspect area. Could you let us know how you get on? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Double-time charges may apply for Sunday advice!

Hello Jamie, Since you having (occasional) symptoms akin to battery failure, then the first port of call in an investigation is to have the battery checked. Process of elimination. Either charge the battery overnight, or take it for a 20 mile run, to ensure it should be fully charged, then get the battery efficiency checked - Halfords will do this. If the battery is found to be suspect - would I buy a replacement from Halfords?? I always buy either Varta or Bosch (same) batteries at competitive prices from on-line quick delivery battery specialist suppliers - not from three worded on line motor factors offering high discounts on inflated ‘retail’ prices! If the battery proves to be serviceable then let us know, or better still, let us know anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Not sure on your particular engine, but believe the thermostat comes with the housing from Audi. Personally I would not fit an aftermarket one. Contacting your local dealer will confirm and give you a price. I have bought genuine VAG parts at discount from Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors). Might we worth a ring once you know the retail price - they do mail order. Could also try TPS for a comparison price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Douglas, Thanks for joining and enquiring on the forum. Hopefully you may have some positive response. Meanwhile, it would be worthwhile advertising your want in classic car publications, such as Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer, Practical Classics - and many more. You could also try the on line car breakers link website such as Parts Finder ( I think it’s called). There are more. These websites pass your requirements to all linked breakers, and if they have the parts then they contact you directly. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Darren, Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear you are having issues so soon after owning the car, and that the diagnosis appears variable. I take it you purchased the car directly off the registered keeper (how long had he owned it?) rather than a used car dealer. I think it would be useful for you to take advice on how the car matches the advertisement description, since even with a private sale the vehicle has to be a described - hence seller’s backside-covering descriptions such as ...’ Starts, drives, stops..’ . Of course, common sense normal wear and tear has to be considered in respect of the fact that it is now c13 years old, but you would expect it to at least be drivable, unless the issued receipt - and therefore conditions of sale - stated something along the lines of ...Sold as seen, tried and accepted’. This is likely to influence the importance of the advertised description, but should not negate it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tristan, There was a similar question posted no more than a couple of weeks ago ? Worth having a look at that. Effectively, to do it properly, the answer is no, unless you increase the wheel diameter. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, To me, the next obvious must-do move would be to get the actual pressure reading assessed on a gauge. You don’t tell us the make of the replacement sensor. If it was anything other than a genuine VAG or Bosch, I would not be jumping to conclusions that it cannot be that because it is new! But the actual oil pressure reading will guide you on this. If indeed the actual pressure is indeed measured as being low then obvious culprits would be the oil pump, and possibly aggravated by bearing wear if the pressure has been low for some time. Let’s look at this with a positive result which shows the oil pressure to be acceptable. Culprits:- sensor (as mentioned), bad connection/wire break which can manifest itself by the engine torque movement aggravating the bad connection/ partial break. Coolant loss:- worth having the system pressure tested incase excess pressure is being generated, and obviously looking for leaks. It seems there is a dye which can be added to your (red?) coolant which assists with leak detection. Haven’t used it myself. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I think you have answered your own question here. ‘....Bit expensive...’ and that would just be for the parts. Work involved and practicality if you were prepared to absorb the parts cost?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Good luck. Keep everything recorded in writing Dawn. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, If this were mine, my next move would be to get the coolant system pressure tested to see if it’s over pressurising. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the extra information Stuart. Sorry to bore, but make of oil sensor and oil filter? No smoke when hot and revs. held at a steady 2000rpm for 2 mins. then. Good idea to change the coolant reservoir cap - always a cheap eliminator. Kind regards, Gareth.