Magnet

Hello Luke, You need to establish from them whether the two low cylinders are adjacent to one another. If so, this could be a head gasket issue - if not, then obviously there is something else wrong. Also bought two years ago:- From the same Audi dealer? Another Audi dealer? Somewhere else? Full main dealer service history prior to you buying it? Servicing during the last two years - where and when? This evidence is likely to be critical in any 'good will' contribution dealings with Audi UK. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, Sorry to hear of your problems. To some extent, it is difficult to follow Audi Belfast's logic by claiming that the engine itself is at fault, unless they have carried out some 'basic' engine mechanical checks and advised you of the results. To try to keep it concise and simply, a new engine might be reasonable advice if they have carried out a compression test on all cylinders and found one in more to be low. If so, then they can let you know the readings. Assuming the compressions are reasonably correct, then I would be carrying out an oil pressure test to check if the engine's lubrication system is serviceable or not. If they haven't carried out these basic tests and are advising an engine strip down is necessary to find out what is wrong, then personally I would not have much faith in them, and would get the car transported to a reputable independent for a second opinion before making any decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alex from the Homeland. If it were mine, I would be making some enquiries with the folks who remapped it for you. Glow plugs? Highly unlikely I would have thought, since they only assist cold starting. Kind regads, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Well worth following Steve's suggestion. Has it been the rainy season in Trinidad? Not really very up on this, but does this earlier version have a body control unit (BCU)? If so it might well be worth checking the connections onto this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh blinking heck Peter - I feel for you. That's about as open ended as it could be! I think that would test my loyalty towards this engined vehicle, and even towards the brand. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Now you are testing the memory, but I recall many many years ago having a similar issue when fitting a replacement Pioneer radio cassette in our then BMW. In that case it was something to do with a lack of connection to ((I think) a aerial signal booster for fm. Of course, this may not apply in your case since the BMW s were not fitted with a standard radio/cassette at the time. Having said all of that, my guess is that it's to do with a supply connection which needs to be made. Sorry this is vague, but it may lead you in a search (on other forums?) which will solve the issue for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Logic would point to :- If the noise was not there before you changed the components, then it's highly likely its associated with the fitting of the new bits. Eliminate the simple things first. I would start with removing one of the new plugs and carefully comparing it with the ones you took out - particularly in terms of the reach of the plug (length of thread and electrode). Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Hazel, OK, bucket and sponge. Bang goes my theory of acid contamination of the discs/pads then - unless hubby uses spray-on wheel cleaner when he washes it. If it were mine, I think I would insist on having new pads fitted, and the discs thoroughly cleaned up. Chances of getting Audi to do that under warranty?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Hazel. You didn't tell us how the car is washed. It may be thought to be a daft question, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Linda, Can we take it you have tried Audi dealers, but not had any success due to the car's age? Even if you have made some enquiries there, it may be worth popping in (again?) ,and asking if they have a system whereby they can check (older on the shelf) stock at all dealers. Obviuosly getting the gearbox oil should not be an issue. Cambelt :- excuse my ignorance, but does this engine run on a belt or does us run on a chain? If a belt, Google 'Gates cambelts' and this should lead you to a UK Technical contact for their belts. In my opinion, these are the best aftermarket belts you will get, and I'm sure they will point you to their part number for the kit you need, then you can approach local motor factors, or on line ones, to check availability. One potential issue:- cambelts are changed on a mileage and age basis, and the age may be as little as 5 years. Question:- how do you know how old the 'new' belt is that you are buying to fit? Already over 5 years old?? Worth asking Gates how you would know - from a batch number? Last point:- it's always worth changing the main (serpentine) drive belt - and its tensioner - at the same time. Ask Gates for the part no. for that as well. Please come back again if you are still stuck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Might be worth a trip down to Jack Smiths in Swansea - not far from the Guildhall. They have been doing trimming and hoods from the time I had hair. Seem to have some good reviews via. the MX5 followers. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Simple and basic things first Danny, Check the gearbox oil level, and even consider changing it, to ensure the grade is correct. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tara, Tommy's got a good point. If that fails, and moving the battery is the only option, then I would be tempted to go to a trusted local garage who will have a simple device which links a slave battery into your system usually via. the cigarette lighter or similar point. The existing battery an then be removed and the surrounding area cleaned. No need to ensure you have the codes etc. if it's done this way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Silly me - electronic handbrake! If noise alters when the steering turns then there is a stronger possibility that the noise originates from the front wheels rather than the back. Can we take it you don't get any noise when moving forward slowly? Sorry about additional questions, but full information is king:- During your two and a half months of ownership, how often has the car been washed, and what method has been used to clean it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Well, ..." static friction is bigger than the dynamic friction..." I really like that! For friction please leave the 'r' out and subsititue ''fiction' . This car is trying to tell you something, and you are right to be concerned that it isn't as it should be. Apart from the above!? , there could be a number of valid reasons. Could you report back on the effects on the noise of the following:- When reversing and the noise is present, gently (in caps) apply the handbrake to one or two notches. When reversing and the noise is present, turn the steering wheel slightly from side to side. Probably daft and unnecessary to advise only going this when there is plenty of room around you and it's safe to do so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Completely agree with the different slant on it Piotr. The 'free' length of the new spring before fitting will obviously be longer than its compressed (car weight on it) length when fitted - as you are now saying. Then it will largely stay the same, and drop only under increased load. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Mannie, Strange things happen then. Marvellous. Without reading back on all the posts, I seem to recall you would have bought this 8 year old car from a non franchised car sales ( not Audi dealer - due to age?). So some (OK understandanly annonomous) Audi dealer is contributing 40% of the bill, VAG 50%, and the actual supplying car sales - any?%? Most interesting result. Mileage as a matter of interest Manni? Any interesting history? As I say, I think you've done extremely well, and obviously dealt with this in a first class manner. Mrs. May could do with you! Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry to contradict Piotr, but why should these new springs compress within one month? They are designed to take the maximum recommended loads over a period of years of service, and unless they are constantly highly loaded, will remain substantially as they are for a long time. By your logic, if you measure the ride heights of all - say demonstrator Audis on the forecourt , they will ride lower than the ones just driven into the showroom. Um? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anamul, Wouldn't be sure, but sometimes the Park isolator switch can become worn, and although the lever is in Park, the switch may not be properly 'made'. You've probably done this, but try wiggling the selector lever when in Park to see if this does anything for the message. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jay, Can we take it the whole screw is plastic (and has now snapped) rather than the screw being metal (and now snapped) and covered with a plastic press-over cover. If you are talking about a completely plastic screw, then the original would have had a plastic nut on the inside of the tailgate - which will still be there, attached to the remains of the srew thread. Of course pushing this in will result in it disappearing into the tailgate. I guess you will need to remove the inner trim to get at it and remove it, before replacing like for like. An alternative would be to stick the plates on using double sided pads made for the job - ensuring all surfaces are clean. Downside if using the same plates is that the screw holes will still show. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary from the Homeland, I think the answer lies with your Audi main dealer via. the VIN for the car, rather than on here, where it's highly unlikely that anyone would have had a tape measure on their their springs in recent memory. OK, motor factors are generally cheaper, but as you will know from more experience than I, their listings can be wrong, and much time is spent on trying to fit these wrong components. Sometimes it must be cheaper time-wise to just buy from the main dealer at your trade discount. I'm sure Mr. Sinclair's boys will give you the right answer and parts. Good luck with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Craig, but sorry I'm not sure what you mean.

Hello Mannie, That sounds like a result. Are you saying that Audi will meet 90% of the costs of a full engine rebuild on this 8 year old car? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, As I said, if it's PCP then the residual value of registered in 2018 vs 2019 will have been taken into account, and most of what I mentioned will not apply in real terms. However, I think of it were me, I would ask for a recalculation of outgoings once they tell you the car is nearing delivery - whenever that is. Unless you are lucky enough to get some insider information on this then you are at the mercy of Audi as to when they can get this engine within limits. You will also be 'acting as a test bed' for their controls and again -with apologies for being pessimistic - how will you be sure performance/economy will not be compromised? Yoy say the diesel variant is currently available. So apart from the bad press poured on diesels over the last couple of years, what would be your issue with buying one of these on a PCP - where you will know what the residual will be? Of course, if you make regular trips into the city then that option may not be practical, but if not, it might be worth a consideration, and I guess one of these can be road tested at the moment and a delivery date estimated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, Please do not take this as read, since my knowledge of these things is limited, but to me, since it does start, but stops very soon after, it might suggest immobiliser issues rather than in-depth ECU. I'm sure someone on here will point you in the right direction. Kind regards, Gareth.