Magnet

Hello Marco, In the absence of other replies, my thinking on this is that it is was originally set on a longlife schedule and as such, I believe it would not be unusual for this car to run to around 19k miles before servicing. Two things which confuse me is that it's normal for average contract mileage PCP cars to be set on a nearer annual servicing plan - to reap greater rewards from the customer - an explanation might rest with your contract including an add on premium to cover a maintenance plan. Did you sign up for a maintenance plan? Also, I would have expected this car to have been called for servicing when it was two year old - irrespective of longlife schdules. I think Paul has a good point, about getting your query confirmed in writing. If this is not forthcoming then you could do a sort of reverse confirmation by sending them an e-mail based on .......' Further to my conversation with ....... on ..,,,,,,,, I understand and accept that car (reg. No. ) is not due for servicing at or shortly after this date...' Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Beets, Just nip back to the dealer and get them to show you how they work? - or agree they don't work, and rectify the problem. Usually, there isn't any switch, and they automatically come on when the boot is opened. Sometimes, but very rarely, the main lights have to be on before they work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ally, Perhaps someone will be able to identify this and give you a number or letter, but have you tried going into your local dealer and asking them to identify the correct one for you? Kind regards, Gareth.

I really wouldn't buy one and use it on a complex electrically controlled car if you are asking what to check and how. To repeat, the only sound advice I can give is to now put that money towards an hour of an auto electrician's time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Not easy to work on electric windows or anything electrical without a meter and a knowledge and experience of how to use. I think that if this was mine, I would be investing in a hour of a trusted auto electrician's time to at least get an experienced diagnosis on this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Before moving into the mechanics of this, have you measured the actual voltage at the motors to check that they are receiving at least the 12v. as they should be? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, It is always worth checking the fuses to make sure they haven't blown, and indeed to give them a 'wiggle' in the holder to minimise the risk of poor contact. With regard to 'other fuses missing' , I guess you have consulted the handbook to ensure the 'missing' fuses are for equipment fitted to your car. The fuse board is usually set up to cater for a full range of equipment which can be fitted, but often isn't, so there could appear to be missing fuses when they were never fitted originally. Reverse light switch location? :- not sure on your engined car. Often fitted so it gets actioned by the external selector lever position for reverse gear, or sometimes fitted into the gearbox casing to be actioned from inside when reverse is selected. Might be one of those jobs where an hour out with an auto electrician may be worthwhile. The existing switch really needs to be checked for 'switching make and break' before buying another one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, I would be suspecting the reverse light switch is at fault, and is remaining 'closed circuit' when not activated by the reverse gear selection. That is why they have taken the fuse out- so they don't work at all! If it proves not to be that then it could be a wiring problem, but check this first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, Sorry to bother you, but could you broaden my knowledge on these things (needs updating) by letting me know how the factory (VAG?) can independantlly 'block' the performance of an individual 12 year old car? Hope you don't mind. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

I calculate that at £3000 to £4000 per hour! - plus the cost of a trip from lovely Powys to Teesside.

Hello Nick, Sorry to hear you are having an issue. As you say, this is a classic wheel balance characteristic at this speed, but to now assume that it isn't because the wheel refurbishers would have rebalanced them, is a simple assumption, and may or may it be correct. This problem could also be associated with a defective tyre, and if it is, then this must be seen to with some urgency. If it were my car, I would get this down to your local trusted tyre depot. as soon as possible and ask them to thoroughly check all tyres ( with the wheels off) and then check the balance. Only when you have done this can you assume the problem isn't associated with tyres or balancing. Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not quite sure what your opening comment is meant to imply Tony, in terms of my earlier ( postive and supportive I think) responses to Mario. Contacting the DVLA is fine and positive, but they will not amend critical V5 data without supporting evidence that the currently held data is incorrect. Personally, I think that is only fair and reasonable, and I'm sure Mario will now be able to collect the data he requires to resolve this. Kind regards, Gareth.

What plastic part Paul?

Hello Tom, Thanks for coming back with the extra information. If the car was first registered? Feb. 2015 then the warranty would have expired in Feb. of this year - so too late now, so onward and upward! Blocked core? I would really simply forget that as a possibility, since the car is less than 5 years old. It is likely to still have its original OAT coolant which lasts at least for that time, and in reality nearer twice as long without major issue. As you point out, the coolant will be changed at the cambelt and water pump change ( suggest main dealer or Gates cambelt kit, and certainly main dealer only for the water pump - without question - in caps!) Back to heater:- I share your opinion that the problem here relates to a heater control valve, and if this were mine, I would wander into my local Audi dealer and ask about 'this valve'. They would then clarify what is what in relation to what it is, and if they tend to give problems. Hopefully, someone much more up on this will come along on here and give you better advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, I assume you have individual heater controls to separately regulate the temperature on driver and passenger sides, and by what you say about the different temperatures of the heater hoses, it is probable that both sides lack heat. You could try squeezing the hoses with the engine up to temperature and running, and controls set to max. heat - obviously respecting all safety requirements. You might find you will feel air locks and the hoses will then reach the same temperature. I have my doubts this will work however, but worth a try. Blocked core? I seriously doubt this on a car of this age. Personally I would not try to back flush it? My stab at this is that it is some form of electrical control valve issue, but a guess it is. By what you say about the fault existing since last year, it would seem that the car was marginally in/ just out of warranty, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Since both front windows are similarly affected, are there any logical answers to these questions:- Is it likely that both regulators or both motors are at fault. If this is indeed unlikely, is there any - perhaps electrical - component which is common to both window? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Has the actual voltage at the motors been checked?

Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum. I can well understand the difficulty in describing this part - to be able to have any chance of finding a replacement. Not meant as being critical, but when I first read your reference to 'strut' , my mind was tuned in to something associated with the suspension. Cross tie bar, chassis cross link bar, etc. may be alternatives, but a better description than yours?? Incase it helps, the corresponding upper pressed panel ( from wing to wing) is often called a closing panel, so perhaps lower closing link bar. No doubt you have already been there, but have you tried visiting (not phoning) as many Audi dealers as possible. I appreciate that the part will be no longer available but I would be surprised if all the schematics associated with the car have been destroyed. If you fail there, it might be worth checking with Audi Technical (in writing). These approaches should at least provide a description of the part - hopefully a part number. If you can eventually find a part number, then it is possible that some sort of dealer network part-still-on-stock enquiry facility exists where dealer stocks are checked nationally. Another option:- Are there any 'modern classics' Audi specialist about? - worth a Google. If so, these would be my first port of call. Everything fails option:- Get a replacement made. OK expensive and where? Armed with the old unit off and precise dimensions on required length, I would approach your local Technical College -try to wander into the entrance to the workshops with a helpless look, rather than going to reception. They are often looking for projects for the students. Hope some of the above may help. Keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Everything fails option:- I might, and it would have to be a might, know someone in my locality who could be prepared to make one for you, but I would prefer to keep this as a tried- everything-else option, rather then enquiring at this stage.

Hello Paul, Possibly will be considered a cheap bodge, but it could be worth spraying some WD40 or similar ( I now used GT85) down the felt window runners - front and back. Partly lower the window before squirting. It might well cure it or it might ease the problem. These window mechanisms are designed to stop closing if there is a restriction, and the restriction may be aggravated by tight runners. If it doesn't work then its doors cards off and see what is going on and if lubrication there might help. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Mario, Very pleased this has been sorted. I've been 'off air' for a few days, but reading through the posts, my view was that the answer rested with making a simple contact with Audi. Glad it worked out for you. Probably being rather critical, but I'm not sure whether assumptions ( once interpreted as 'making an !Removed! of you and me') - such as cut and shut etc. is very useful, since assumptions are all they are, and help and progress can only be made by studying known fact, or making suggestions of how to obtain fact. Still.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, Regretably, many threads end up remaining open ended, and the potential for helping others with similar problems are lost. I'm not saying the following investigation is going solve your issue, but....... Have a look at,and a twiddle with, the harness as it passes from the bodywork through to the boot/hatch lid. This is a fairly common source of issues since it is continually flexed, and the wires can eventually snap and cause intermittent curcuit failure. Worth stripping back the harness covering if it proves suspect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Appreciate this isn't MOT rules! - but forum rules :- I like your posts which remind members to read the rules - all nice, tidy and civilised! I know the forum edits unacceptable words- by blanking out these words with - ***? I notice it doesn't do the same when posters use abbreviated (just letters) instead of the actual unacceptable forum words though! Any reason why not, since it is exactly the same, and clearly understood word. Keep up the good work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Personally, I would forget glow plugs since these control the cold starting in cold weather. Your cold starting appears to be fine. Does the car smell of diesel, or push out a bit of smoke during it's brief attempts to start quickly when hot? If it were mine, I would be finding a good local diesel specialist (ask your local taxi drivers for recommendations) and entrusting diagnosis to them. Injectors?? - but it could be due to a variety of causes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, I too am sorry to hear of this problem, and if there is going to be any benefit from this very unfortunate experience, it's going to be a warning to other owners to think twice about using such commercial car wash facilities. Yes, I know the current thinking that 'I'm not going to waste my time washing the car when I can get it done for me for £5/10'. So owners sit there wasting their time on their mobile phones while waiting to have the car cleaned! I have commented on here so many times about the adverse affects of cleaning chemicals (and lances) used by these establishments, that I am now even boring myself! They will take the skin off your hands, and can all these operators calculate a dilution rate of say 10/1?? In terms of your issue and its rectification? As I see it, these trims are aluminium and are finished by polishing them, and then the shine is sealed in by lacquering - I think. I believe you have ended up by the lacquer coating being degraded by the acid, leaving the actual aluminium surface subject to further localised attack by the chemical. Rectification would now be to repolish (to a level below the pits) and then repeat the (two part) lacquer coating. Practical without removal??? Might be worth taking advice from a local specialist vehicle preparation business incase they can offer some beneficial process. The question that now remains is :- if this chemical has resulted in this damage to the trims, what (as yet unseen) damage has it done to the surrounding paintwork lacquer coating? Repeating myself, I think your very unfortunate experience might make others think twice about getting others to wash their cars. Good luck with getting this sired out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Might be worth adding around the smaller seconhand car sales sites, since these sites often know good car preparation set ups.

Hello Adam, If I was in your situation, I too would follow Steve's advice, but also talk with a local trusted auto electrician, since it's likely that any such work taken on by garages close to you will be subcontracted to such an auto electrician. I must confess that I am short on knowledge of the total extent of damage caused by reverse polarity on 'modern' vehicles, but expect the alternator to now be faulty as well, since it's usual that the diodes in there have been adversely affected by connecting the leads the wrong way around. I must say, I am surprised by the leads ' almost catching fire' unless the two cars were in physical 'earth' contact. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello D..? When this car starts to push out smoke, does it smell of diesel? Kind regards, Gareth.