Magnet

Hello Dennis, Apologies - it's 'oh not him again'! . Taking another look at your facts and logic, and I see that the car is fitted with an automatic lock down or whatever it is called. What now confuses me is that in one of your early threads you mention the 1.7 amp draw when the car has been left unlocked in the garage. I must take it you left the keys in it, otherwise it would have automatically locked! Intersting point, but I wouldn't have thought it would have consumed that amount of current if left with the keys in it and it didn't lock, but.. Can we take it you have the handbook to identify all the blade fuses and their curcuits? Large amps fuses? I too think alternator etc., but personally I don't think I would remove these - concentrate on all locations for blade fuses first. If that fails? I may be talking through the part which should be used for sitting, but alternators and diodes? Is it possible that a diode can fail 'closed' curcuit as opposed to open curcuit, and if so, would this result in a drain back through the alternator? Just another thought! Kind regards, Gareth.

'........am I doing something wrong?' Sorry, but in my opinion yes - putting one bottle of K Seal in this cooling system. Putting two!?? Using/ losing coolant? The car is trying to tell you something and you need to find out the cause of coolant loss/use. Basic things first:- change/ swop the header tank screw top - but I would not use an EBay one. No difference? Have the coolant system pressure tested. This should not cost you as much as two bottles of K Seal. What you do about having two bottles of this stuff in the coolant?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Probably a daft question on a car of this age, but does the new battery have to be coded to the car? More recent models - Yes?

Hello Matty, Any history of a recent coolant change, or work being carried out which necessitates the coolant system being disturbed? Coolant temperature gauge reading normal after a few miles and remains at this reading? You could try getting the car hot and selecting the maximimum setting on heating control, and checking if both heater hoses are the same temperature after a couple of minutes - obviously observing all safety requirements. Not sure how easy they are to get at on yours - may require some engine cowl removal. If both pipes are not hot then try squeezing them, and you might feel some air rush movements. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daniella, I think these should look nice, if fancy wheels is your thing. I'm afraid I'm probably going to continue the not too positive responses by mentioning that it's not uncommon for folks to spend comparatively large chunks of their hard-earned on non standard wheels and then minimise the extra cost by buying potentially low grip budget tyres - or mid range at best! I'm sure though that you will act sensibly in this respect. Again, these are usually fitted with low profile tyres which result in a ride akin to that of a fast moving horse and cart - but the wheels will look nice for others to look at. Not sure of the insurance requirements where you are, but on the mainland it is wise/essential to notify your insurers where non standard wheels have been fitted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Austins in the family? You are from good stock then Steve! No doubt about that. The first car I renovated was a 1934 (last of the model) chrome-rad Austin 10. It is now in the Country Life museum (or whatever they call it now) in Exmouth, where it has been since 1985. I feel sorry for it since it hasn't turned a wheel since! Spent yesterday morning fine tuning a 1936 Austin 10. That paricular model is called a Sherborne - the shortest lived production run by Austin, and was only made from Jan to Sept. of 1936. Took it for a little 8 mile jaunt and stopped to readjust the timing just off the main road and found ourselves turning around in a local Viola transport yard. Guy on mobile came over - as they normally do - to have a chat - but no, you cannot stop here! Just two minutes? Sorry no! You've got to feel sorry for for them! But there again, he probably did not want two young delinquents about!! Still, the dear little thing is now running enthusiastically. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Just an afterthought:- Might be worth advertising it on Piston Heads free advert website. They seem to cater for the rather non run of the mill cars. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jack, A second opinion is usually with while, and I would follow Steve's suggestion. I would not mention anything to Audi about the assement you have already had done by the independent. Some pointers which may help you if and when some of these items may need attention:- Shock absorbers - generally long lived and I would be questioning (just in my mind) the significance of a bit of misting. If a shock absorber does need changing, then the recommendation is that they are changed in pairs, and you know what that does for your bill! See what the Audi check comes up with, but if the misting was listed as an advisory (justified or otherwise - and there is a lot of bum covering with thes things now) on the last MOT then don't be surprised if Audi comment as well, since they may well tap into the MOT history of the car. Brake pads and discs - about winter time? Even if these are getting towards end of life, it is surprising how many miles can be covered before they actually get to a point where they really need changing - without taking any risk. I guess the quote you have is for using Audi parts, and that is ideal, but.... If and when they do need changing, I think I would be fostering relationships with a trusted, recommended local garage, since such things are easily dealt with by any skilled mechanic, usually at much cheaper labour rates. Potential problem of using that route?? - they might want to use the 'Brand X' parts which their usual motor factors supply them. I would beware of that since some/a lot are nowhere near as good as Audi parts. I would not be happy with that. Possibility- you supply the parts, and they fit them for you. You can try a company called TPS (usually have localish depots) who are likely to supply such VAG parts at a bit of a discount, or if you are looking at non Audi aftermarket manufacturers, ( second best option only) there are many to avoid! I have however used EBC parts to good avail, and I believe this forum now has a discount on these - see a recent alert by Trevor. Good luck with this Jack, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, If this is genuine 1948 registered Austin 16, what you have there - or what you did have there!! - was one of a batch of an extra 200 manufactured for the taxi trade. This batch was made after the model was discontinued and had been replaced by the then new Austin Hampshire. The reason for manufacturing them? The taxi trade didn't really welcome the new model and preferred the old Austin 16! The 48s are rare, but I drove one over a 180 mile round trip last Saturday. Goes really well. This particular one was originally destined to be used as a taxi (you could only buy new cars then for 'commercial' use in the UK) but was hived off from the 4 ordered and used privately. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, The car sounds to be a very good buy, and I can understand your views that it must be worth more (a lot more?) than the average 2003 A4 cabriolet. In my experience, such cars are normally sold to people you know, or people associated with who you know. In other words, it is considered to be a very good value for money car, and someone is prepared to pay a premium for it because it's low mileage and been well cared for. I once asked a classic car auctioneer to 'value' an 8K Morris 1000 I was selling, and the reply was ' Wharever someone will write you out a check for today, and that will be different to what another person will pay tomorrow!' Not an helpful answer, but a realistic one. You are the one who knows what you consider it's worth, and this will (as you say) will be based on what is being asked for other average examples. I would be convinced you already have a figure in mind below which you would not sell this car, and if it were mine, I would be tempted to list it online under 'Classic Cars' (which it isn't, but...) and in similar magazines. If you were going to buy a new car, then no doubt you have already had an unacceptable part exchange price, and this, together with the currently advertised prices of same-year-model cars will allow you to decide what you will accept. Personally, I would not advertised under 'Offers' since buyers will always want to know what you are expecting for it, so just as well ask it, in my book. Not much of an answer I know, but I'm sure you have a figure in mind, and you might get it from the right buyer. Good luck in finding the right home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sebastian, Sorry to hear of your problem. Could I ask you:- Can you replicate this (severe engine misfire?? -or creating any issue) by just revving the engine with the car stationary and holding the revs? If so, at what rpm does the problem start? Genuine Audi ignition coil used as replacement? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Filip, Interesting question to which I don't have an answer, but someone probably will. As a bit more background:- How do you know you were caught by a speed camera in Germany? Can we take it you have some documents/ notification of fine that has already been issued to you? Where has that been addressed to? If you have, it presumably tells you what you have to do. Does it? If you haven't received any documents - well I would ask, as you do, are they going to bother to chase you (and the DVLA) now that you are back in the UK? Assuming you are a UK resident, and back there rather than a German one. Incidentally, what speed were you doing!? Perhaps answers to the above will help others to offer you some advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis again, I'm in grave danger of boring you and everyone else with this! Something has come to mind which might -just might - throw some light on the 1.7 amp draw when the car is left unlocked. I notice your A3 is 2004. We have a 2006 one, and that has 'automatic lockdown' if left open (without keys in it) for more than 30? seconds. i.e. The car will automatically lock itself. I now wonder if some curcuitry holds the car in the unlocked condition and obviously uses power to do so- this power reducing to around 50mA when fully locked and the alarm has set. Incase it comes as a package, this car also has speed lock (or whatever your call it) whereby the car automatically locks itself once on the move. Our car is a basic model, so its fair to assume all 2006 A3s had these features. Question? Was your model year fitted with this facility? Does your car automatically lock when on the move? If it automatically locks when on the move, should it also automatically lock itself if left unlocked? We need the knowledge of others to let us know if this feature applied to 2004 examples as well. Or may have been an option. Anybody know? If it was originally fitted with this feature then your 1.7 Amps could be associated with this feature permanently 'holding' this car in the unlocked condition when it shouldn't. Possibility?? Of course, this does not account for your 0.5 amp draw when locked, but might - again just might- be associated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looking back Dennis, it seems the current drain has reduced from 1.7 amps to 0.5 amps, and yet you haven't found the culprit. Are you absolutely sure the 1.7 amps was 'real' at the time of measuring? - car fully shut down and no courtesy lights on. 0.5 amp drain will run your fully charged battery down in a few days or so, so is significant, as I said. Well worth following Cliff's lead and checking everything for water ingress and damp - very valid point. I'm still confused that this drain still remains after removing every fuse one by one and not finding the offending curcuit. Are you sure there isn't another/other fuse boxes within the car? There are often more than one. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. OK No sat nav. CD changer? (on Cliff's damp logic)

Hello Branden, That should be easy. Just wonder into your nearest dealer, armed with that photo and your registration number, and they should be able to obtain the correct cover plate for you. My quess is that it covers a tie- down loop, and the cover has been removed for access to this and not replaced. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, Um, aporox. 500mA. ( half an amp) draw then. That's equivalent to around 5 to 6 watts - not insignificant. Daft-things first checks. Remove glove box bulb incase micro switch is not switching off. Same with boot light, but I would remove one at a time and test, otherwise you won't know which is the culprit if the current draw falls. Sat nav? Known these (boxes) to cause such issues if in the boot and moisture has got in and created 'white rust' deposits on the printed curcuit board. Unplug? Just a couple of extra pointers. Useful though?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Auto or manual Peter? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Bill, Working in kilometres rather than miles in a miles-country because you can easily calculate the conversion then. Well at least I understand now - or do I!? I guess the e-mail is about the service coming up at 7months rather than 12 and you want it 12 months from delivery . I'm sure they will sort this out for you. Your call of course, but if this car was mine, I'd certainly be ensuring the oddometer was reading in miles before presenting this for its service, otherwise the service record is likely to show the reading as miles, and you would then have to be trying to explain to them and a subsequent owner why the car hasn't been clocked when you revert to miles! - which everybody works in in the UK. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dennis, I would check that the current draw does indeed settle to around 50mA after being fully locked up for a couple of minutes. Much more than that will be undesirable. 500mA is obviously too much. Kind regards, Gareth. polly Parrot thingy? - yes, I would be disconnecting that too, but only after doing the above check first.

Hello William, Thanks for coming back on this. Why is Yorkshire in kilometres then? Perhaps the vote went against Brexit in your part of the country, but that's taking it a big step to the next level! Pardon my humour. Without being cynical, it looks as if you talked yourself/were talked into, not going on the Longlife schedule, so I guess you will be on their radar once a year? Someone will confirm or otherwise that it is now annual. I asked if the car was on PCP since my view would be to go along with it if it is, and perhaps set up a maintenance plan. Difficult to know what to do, but bear in mind that the car has only been in use for 7 months and there is another 5 months to go before it's had 12 months road use. I think this point is a valid one to talk with them about (at a senior, service level ). I'm not sure on this , so it would be great to have other opinions and facts, but am I right in thinking the original oil has 'additives' (right word? -probably not) which aids running in? If so, it could be argued that changing that oil after 2.5k miles may not indeed be the best for the car. Don't know, but if I were in your situation, I would need some convincing to change it now rather than in 5 months time. Kind regards, Gareth.

That's interesting Dennis, since I have left non-Audi cars unlocked in the garage for weeks and not suffered any undue battery drain. Probably others more up to date on these things will confirm that indeed your diagnosis is spot on with Audis of your model year, but I'm not so sure. Whatever it is that is draining the battery when the car is 'left unlocked' has a wattage of around 20w ( 12 X the 1.7 amp) - equivalent to the current drawn by a brake light or indicator bulb - no mean drain! Having pulled all ( and you are sure there aren't any other fuses e.g. In-line etc) without reducing the the current drain, my suspicion was that perhaps someone had connected something up direct to the battery perhaps and not via. a fuse at all, but, if you have solved it , then you have solved it. With regard to the 1.7 amp draw before locking :- I wonder if this is due to the courtesy lights still being on (as normal) until the car is locked or of course the lights have timed out automatically. Your 1.7 amp current draw could equate to the wattage of the set of interior lights. Reducing to 500mA ( half an amp) once locked ? You are right in your assumption that ...'would have dropped more..' and I believe a figure of more like 50mA would be what you would expect to run a 'fully shut down' system , after say 45 secs. after locking. If it were mine, I would double check that there is still a current drain of 1.7 amps in the unlocked condition well after the courtesy lights have gone out. No doubt you probably have Dennis, and that would mean I am still rather confused - but not too difficult with me! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, OK. The only thing I can add is that I've always associated the term 'new-for-old' with house contents insurance where they will do that if your old three piece suite gets damaged! You are obviously ahead of me on this with your in-trade experience, since it is not terminology which comes to mind with car insurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

I would certainly agree with Cliff, since it's simply wasting (already wasted?) money until you ascertain there is adequate and reasonably even, compression on all cylinders. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello William, I think your theory is not far off the mark, and the vehicle is possibly now approaching a year old. Now for my add-on theory which those more up to date on the current situation may blow out of the water:- Is there still a choice of 'Longlfe' or non longlife service schedules to choose from? Longlife = about 18k or 18/24 months ( this is my estimation only), the non longlife possibly = annually? If I'm an Audi dealer, then I would be wanting to set the service intervals to the shortest term to get as much money in as possible! Possible explanation of why they want to extract £350 out of your wallet after 4K miles ( your quoted km is a mistake?) and set yours to the non longlife schedule. Nor sure what difference it makes ,but is the car on PCP? If so, it can often be worth considering paying the monthly maintenance add on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I'm very sorry to hear of your plight. I wonder if it would be possible to clarify a couple of points here, so I can get the logic into perspective. As I understand it, it is 'unusual' for GAP insurance to only come into force from the time the vehicle is over 1year old. I raise this since (again as I understand) not ALL insurers automatically cover any form of like-for-like cover (or whatever they wish to call it) within the first year. Hence the need for GAP, and further the GAP cover 'makes up' the shortfall not covered by any other insurance. Again, there are various levels of GAP insurance cover and some make simply replace the vehicle as near as like for like allows, some will not cover any price rises since the car was bought, and some cover for 'invoice value' which may not be adequate in the case of the purchase (or lease) of a discounted-price vehicle. GAP cover needs to be chosen carefully to ensure it covers the individual's purchase requirements. Of course, Audi would offer GAP insurance, but it would likely cost more, but there would be far less room for 'not- covered' situations to apply and hold. The question that comes to mind really is - was there any particular reason you chose a GAP insurance that only covered your vehicle when it was over 1 year old? I may be confused, but I am having difficulty in respect of the blame being laid at the door of Audi Financial Services in this case. As I see it, your insurance cover contract was with Aviva, so any shortfall rests at their door, irrespective of who stands in between them and yourself. That should not be of your concern. Aviva would have had access to the pricing of the vehicle when new - at the time you took out a contract with them to insure the vehicle. In your case c£43k, and UNLESS there is any contra small print, they are liable for cover you for this amount, or replacement vehicle. This cover should not be dependent on anything Audi does, since you did not take out any insurance cover with Audi. Oversimplified? Maybe, but I would certainly be on the chasing case with Aviva, and much less so with Audi FS. I think it's great that you are alerting other owners to beware of Audi FS, but what has happened to you, may not necessarily happen to others, who are insured with different insurers and/or with a different GAP insurer. If it were me, I would be taking appropriate legal advice on this - away from services Aviva may provide you with as part of the cover, and I wish you good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.