Magnet

Hello Kyle, .'.........can only assume it's inside the bumper' . Well they are on earlier A3s. Your A4? Probably. If so, you may find they (one either side of the front) are behind removable plastic grilles or the spotlights -if fitted. You certainly don't have to remove the whole bumper on earlier A3s anyway, but expect getting at them to be fiddly even once you can see them. Any advantage in removing engine undertray?? The A3 horns are badly located and rust, and you are unlikely to know one stops working. It's only when the second one goes the same way, that you know you are in trouble. Just a thought. Checked the fuse? But if it has blown - why? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, No, personally I can't say I have heard of others having problems, or not, but no doubt there are others on here who are far more into these things day to day than I am. Sorry, but again I cannot say whether the full clutch and flywheel arrangement on yours is similar to our fairly basic set up - again others may. I would be tempted to think yours would have the more complex dual mass flywheel, but...? What I would ask is (apart from the judder on clutch take up) do you experience any roughness/ pulsing/ undue noise with the clutch pedal partly depressed to a point where the clutch is slightly depressed? This will be felt through the pedal - or not, but only when pressed say half way, or slightly, down. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Interesting. The clutch on our 148K 2006 A3 1.6 (in the family from new) has just been replaced due to juddering. It has never slipped and it seems to clutch plate would have been fine for more service. However the clutch has always been sharp and prone to judder - almost from new, as you claim with yours, and to me, it never, ever was a smooth clutch. Our daughter who drove this through most of its long-journey mileage seemed to get on with it. Anyway, fast forward to last week when the clutch was replaced with a quality LUK kit ( Audi part would have cost about 3x the price!) . You could feel something was wrong when the pedal was partially pressed. It's now as smooth as a baby's what's it, and much much lighter than it's ever been. Culprit - clutch release bearing, which judging by the flimsy nature of the LUK part, it doesn't surprise me at all! Not sure what engine is in yours (ours is the older 1.6 basic one), so things might be different with yours and may well be more complex with DM flywheel etc. Points to consider:- If it simply judders then this is likely to go on for a long time, getting very gradually worse, but probably being lived with. If you can feel (and hear?) a roughness or slight judder from the pedal itself when partly depressed and held in this position then it's time to worry. Hope some of this might be of help and/or reassurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shawn, Sorry to hear of your problem. It might be wise to get this into perspective, by first judging how much of this service history is actually 'missing' - bearing in mind that longlife service schedules can extend between-service mileages to around 18k + miles. Perhaps you could fill in the detail for us. OK, the dealer advertises the vehicle as having full service history, but it could be worth appreciating that a buyer could be expected to confirm such fact before proceeding with purchase. Yes, easy to say in hindsight, but when buying anything secondhand, there must indeed be a 'responsibility' on the part of the buyer to use all available resources to substantiate claimed facts. Sources of expertise with comparable values? Paul's pointer is useful, but ignore the part about DVLA providing details of previous keepers - this service is no longer available. Having said that, I always recommend that interested buyers always contact the previous registered keeper before proceeding with a purchase. Without being cynical, I doubt if this advice is generally followed, since the buyer has already fallen in love with the vehicle - and we all know what that means! So the shine outweighs the risk of not doing. So Shawn, you can proceed with a claim (Small Claims Court that was?), but you would need to support your claim with an 'expert witness' at your initial cost. This witness would have access to the trade values - CAP guide on line etc. - and would need to provide this evidence to the court. If you win, you can claim it back. Again, complications may arise if part exchange was involved since the seller may have inflated the incoming value of that part part exchange to secure a deal, so the 'difference to pay' figure may -just may- not be that far out from that if the true value of the vehicle you bought had partial rather than full service history. Apologies for the ramble, but without knowledge of the extent of 'partial' history, and the deal itself, it's difficult to advise whether it's worth bothering to claim money rather than take up their 'offer to service'. One compromise could be to get agreement (in writing) to have this vehicle serviced and inspected at an independent. Battles and claims are just that, and compromises are always better, since irrespective of the potential for some extra money (how much?) in your pocket the vehicle still remains as being not what you wanted/expected. But even bad experiences pay dividends in the end! Good luck with sorting this out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Wondered if my experience of trying to sell a cherished number may just give some pointers to aid its sale. Companies such as Registration Transfers ( and there are many more) will give you a valuation and a 'return-to-you' figure if they sell it on your behalf. This will give you a ball park figure which should help with a question such as 'how much are you looking for it?' My belief and experience points to a response of 'make an offer' rarely leading to a sale., and I'm a firm believer in setting a figure and making that known. Your number might well sell quickly, but my recent experience resulted in a cherished number I held on retention and advertised with cherished number dealers for 10 years, being reunited with the donor vehicle after this lapse of time. Too expensive? Not really ,since I reduced the return to me figure every 3 years until it was listed at a third of it's original valuation - this original valuation being considered realistic to the dealers and myself. Yours of course, may sell well and quickly, particularly if you show your hand and state what price you want for it. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I'm very much with Paul on all of this. I would avoid pressure lance operators - from far east of the Thames estuary or not. The chemicals used will take the skin off your hands and unless accurately diluted, will turn lacquer milky in no time at all. I could point to 'well kept' cars which have been wrecked by the process, but the owners seem oblivious to the cause. Its bucket, and wax shampoo for me, but the £5 wash is still more attractive to some. Autoglym:- Again I can only support Paul's experience of using their products. I've been using them since they were first introduced - when I had hair! Tried others in between but still come back to them. There may be better products, but..... Suitable for use on 'older' cars? Been using their resin polish on a couple of cars since it came out, and these cars are now over 80 years old! Kind regards, Gareth.

Fair point Jason, but the main point of my response was to use Halfords (and their pricing) to assess whether it is possible to fit these bulbs - without- removing the bumper - or not. Whether you then actually use them to fit the bulbs (and possibly remove the bumper) would be a decision left to the owner - as you point out your decision in this case. No doubt, for many owners, cost comparisions between say main dealers and Halfords might also influence that decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Our A3 is ten years older than yours and was fitted with Michelin from new. We continued using their 'updated' tyres for well over 100k, but I've just changed to Continental Contact 5 s, since I felt Michelin were getting noisier. Early days yet to assess the Continentals, but..... Of course, you can consider alternative makes, but I tend to do/recommend what you are suggesting as your possible option, and stick with the originally fitted brands. Do you ever get the same mileage on replacements of the same brand?? If this decision was mine, I would stick with the 5s (which seem to be available at good value for money) rather than pander to the manufacturer's updates. I guess it depends on whether your normal driving style matches the need for the 'improvements' offered by the 6s. Backs wearing slower. My scheme has been to replace the fronts and put the new on the fronts. When the rears need replacing, put the new pair on the front, and your (currently to be replaced) front ones on the back. Sticking with brands fitted from new? I notice Mercedes Benz are now using Hankook on some of their cars, which I thought were a mid range tyre. Times have changed? Good luck with whatever you choose. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think it is essential to consider basic factual information with such things as this. Every vehicle will have a maximin towing capacity, and I believe (but please take professional advice) that this is based on the (gross?) weight of the towing vehicle. It is possible - and understandable - that vehicles fitted with panoramic roofs may have a lower towing weight than those fitted with conventional steel roofs since despite the likely bonded nature of the glass roof, the total structure may not be as rigid as the conventional roofed vehicles. Having said that, I cannot understand that a panoramic roofed vehicle simply cannot tow anything! Of course, I am not giving you an answer, and without undermining advice given on here, I don't feel comfortable that this is the right place to end up with the definitive answer. If it were me, I would be making enquiries at:- Main dealer, or Audi Customer Services - Technical, and/or Established towing equipment fitters/suppliers. In both cases - make sure you have the advice in writing. - should be in capitals! As no doubt you will understand, this reply only serves to suggest a reliable source of correct information. Trusting you will be able to get this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I take it you are indeed talking remotes here rather than simply keys. Probably being pessimistic, but I have tried most (all?) of the procedures found via. numerous online enquiries, and failed to recode the second key fob which came with the car when new, but spent most of its life in the draw. The second key with me will do everything it is supposed to - including starting the car- but it will not remotely lock or unlock the doors. In your case it could be worth you googling a number of reset suggestions in the hope one if them may work, but if you fail, the option would be to visit a main dealer or independent to get the recording carried out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you buy the car from a car sales company? If so, they might rectify this for you, but possibly not due to the car's age and the significance of the issue.

Hello Andrew, Thanks for the additional photo which tends to reinforce my opinion that this could well be perforating rust rather than surface rust. A close visual inspection of the area might show an odd bubble of lifting paint. If it does, then that would convince me that I'm on the right track. IF this is the case then I would most certainly believe the bodyshop really 'doesn't want to know' since it is unlikely they will be able to eradicate the rust and guarantee it will remain rust free for say 3/5 years. Continued apologies to those who have suffered this advice before, but if it were mine, I would be having a word with the chaps at a small local car sales site and asking for a recommendation for someone to do this for you. These boys often have poor press, but they make a living by trying to operate with local value-for-money repairers, so can be a good source of where to go. Having said that Andrew, I think you must be realistic in your expectations and accept that however good the repairer is, this rust is likely to return. Also consider that matches might not be as good as you would like, but hopefully you should get a value for money job done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I too would have thought £780 (inc. VAT) is expensive, but I am confused by the '...removal of the quarter panel'. Also you don't tell us whether the quote is directly from the body shop or whether it might for example be via. an Audi dealer. It is difficult to confirm from your photo, if the rust is from a a non-treated scrape, but I suspect it isn't, and in fact is 'genuine' rust extending in from the wheel arch edge. If so, body shops don't like dealing with this since the rust will return and the customer will be unhappy. If this is the case, and a close up photo would help - it may be that they have given you a 'go away estimate' since they don't want to do it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, As Cliff said then. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rebecca, You are very welcome. Bought in July from a mechanic. I'm guessing here, but came with a new MOT? (they say never buy a car from a mechanic, since they know the significance of issues and when to ignore them!). If it has an MOT beyond your 'only meant to be with me for a few months' then personally, I would consider spending the minimum on it to keep it going- the minimum being spent on the safety critical issues. e.g. rear brake requirements etc. I woukd advise caution with choosing a local garage and try to find one by a series of recommendations. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. If MOT expires within your 'lasting few months' then alternative advise might apply.

Hello Rebecca, Adding all the issues together would perhaps suggest the car is not worth spending on, but looked at as individual problems, it should be possible to prioritise them, and decide which are essential to do and which aren't. After all, it's a 15 year old vehicle. What we don't know is:- How long you have owned the car, and what level of issues you have had with it in that time. How the car drives generally, apart from the listed issues. What you paid for it and how much you have spent on it. What your budget would be if you were to sell it. Assume worse possible case of yours only being worth scrap value ( which it isn't). If you have a local trusted garage, or better still access to an enthusiastic 'spanner man' who might help you out. Personally, I would be concerned if your replacement car budget is low, you could be buying something which simply has another set of different issues - the devil you know etc. As a starter for you - the rear wheel squeak/ brake warning light, could be brake pads needing changing, but you really need at spend an hour's labour to get this assessed and costed, before deciding what to do. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Benjamin, I think you are right in not ignoring odd noises. The car is trying to tell you something, and yes it's important to find out what it is. So you have established that the noise is coming from the N/S rear - that is a good step forward. Now cause? Steve points you in the direction of some possibilities, and if I read it correctly you are a 'get someone to look at it' owner rather than a 'get the spanners out' one, and that is fine. A good trusted local garage should be able to establish the cause for you. The old ideal way of spinning this wheel to replicate the noise was the dynamic on-car wheel balancer, but unfortunately this is now a defunct way of doing it. If I was looking at it and cannot replicate the noise by manually spinning the wheel, I would be removing the brake pads and thoroughly inspecting to see if there is anything there to account for it. Another possibility could be a rusted back plate (and they do rust!) which has started to break up and 'expands' to touch the disc. I notice your car is only 4 years old, so it's probably OK, but... Noise gets worse when the car has warned up? This is a bit confusing, but I'm sure the answer will be a simple one. Perhaps you could let usxknow how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, This sounds to be a classic case of fuel vaporisation, with the current higher volatility fuels, but the problem is, such issues do not affect 'modern' cars. I have been around classic cars for more years than I care to remember, and this would certainly be considered as the culprit, but having said that, I would expect those cars to start again once the engine had cooled down, rather than with yours which suggests many hours. The answer is Martin, that I really don't have an answer!., but I would be first trying the 'super' unleaded - worth a try. If the problem still persists, and chances are it might, I would talk with an independent and enquire about the possibilities of air locks in the fuel supply etc. etc. It might also be worth checking the fuel pump fuse - but not just that it hasn't blown - which it won't have, but that there isn't any contact resistance. Partly pull out, squirt some contact cleaner, wiggle, and press firmly home again. On the basics of replacing cheapest bits first, might be worth changing the fuel pump relay, and fuel filter, but do one thing and test , so you will know what, if anything, eases the problem . Not sure if any of this will help, but let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alexandru, It would seem you have half a tank full of contaminated fuel - probably contaminated with water, which is heavier than the fuel so will stay at the bottom of the tank. The confusing part is that the pump should be continually drawing fuel from the lowest point - the bottom of the tank - so should be drawing up the contaminated fuel at all times, and at best, the car should perform badly at all times. Logic would suggest your best option is to have the tank completely drained. How this is done now, is a good question, since I understand there are anti syphon 'systems' and no drain plug, but..... I too feel your best option would be to talk with a good independent , but insist the tank is drained ( then you can add some fresh fuel) before any other work is carried out. Perhaos you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I would not have thought that there was going to be much unconventional on your set up, but I cannot be more specific since I haven't worked on your variant of the A3. So there now appears to be a significant difference in the parts only vs supply and fit, so positive thinking - think what savings you are going to make by DIY! Are you sure that TPS will be supplying you with genuine VAG parts? If not, I see Trevor is drawing our attention to discounts on EBC. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, So you are using independents to service your year old, obviously within warranty car. Theoretically fine as I understand it, provided the car is serviced according to the schedule and I guess VAG parts and approved lubricants are used. No doubt the burden of proof would rest with you if any warranty claim was made. Worth the hassle over the cost benefits?? Back to two different oils being used in the same under-warranty car remains at least strange to me ( and perhaps strange should be in capitals ) . Explainable under a warranty claim?? Essential to get an explanation for potential warrant protection?? Definitely in my book. Cost of comparable service at Audi? Probably would have been well worth well worth having both figures to assess whether the difference is worthwhile. Just a though - does your independent have access to the VAG system to be able to record this service on their database? No service book now? Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks very good - as did the other two with numerous photos. It might just be me, and apologies if no one else thinks the same, but could I be excused for thinking this is now beginning to feel like a free advert?

Hello Phil, Now you are testing the logic! Two different oils in one engine at one time?? 20/50 at £5 a gallon. Yes, 'posh' oil at the time, but no doubt the weekly wage as about £25 at the time, and engines lasted about 70k miles. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, OK, normal driving so you just want to replicate the original braking, and my first recommendation would be to use Audi parts. If the dealer is quoting for supply and fit, and TPS want £100 less for the parts then we can assume that TPS are charging you near retail for the parts - based on the dealer charging about an hour to do the work. Do you intend to do the work yourselves? Are we talking just fronts (or backs) only? If you are doing this work yourself then it's worth considering the £100 saving even if you have to buy at retail. Part no. Can't really see the importance of this. If you are buying the parts at Audi then they will simply sell you the correct parts. If cost does become king, then all you need to do is to carry out an EBay search for pads for your model and year, and you will come up with numerous aftermarket makes - some of which I wouldn't touch! If you feel you want to buy at 'best price' then look for Brembo or EBC ( of which there are different grades). There will be others cheaper, but.... This might - just might give you as good braking as original Audi pads - but you will be buying on price. Unfortunately, my source of Audi parts at discount has dried up, but someone else may be able to help you with this, since this would be your best route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Esat, The theory about changing the tyre profile should be well documented on the websites of some of the major players in the Internet tyre suppliers. As I recall, perhaps (but please check and reassure yourself) changing the profile by one 'size' from say 40 to 45 should not be too drastic, but of course you are increasing the total diameter and technically this will alter the gearing. I think the theory would again point you to changing the wheels to 17 inch if you want to increase the profile to say 50. You will need to work it out yourself, but 40 refers to the tyre wall height being 40% of the tyre width, so if you wanted to change to 45 then the tyre wall height would increase by around 6mm by rough calculation. Work out 40% of your 245mm, then 45% of 245 and this will give you the difference. Affects on handling, gearing etc. .?? I would look up what wheel diameters that were available for your model and start there. I can well understand your desire to move away from these unrealistically low profile since they were conceived to satisfy the motorists who want to constantly go around corners flat out - as we all do all of the time - don't we! The requirements of the motorists who want to drive reasonably and enjoy a smooth ride are ignored. Now Dunlop developed the pneumatic tyre to give comfort over the previous solid tyre..... But these low profile tyres are supposed to represent progress! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, Of course, this could be due to numerous issues, and dare I admit it - might need plugging in to assess fault codes. If it were mine:- I'd be talking with some of my friendly taxi boys and seeking their advice on a trusted local diesel specialist. (I would not be taking it to Audi or an independent). They should be able to run the necessary tests for you, and this may include a leak-back test on the injectors. As you have found with replacing the crankshaft sensor ( replaced with Audi part?) you could otherwise end up changing components without any improvement, and indeed potentially introducing additional problems, since replaced parts may not be as reliable as the originals. As a matter of interest, any smoke or diesel fumes when it does eventually start when hot? Kind regards, Gareth.