Magnet

Hello Steve, OK, normal driving so you just want to replicate the original braking, and my first recommendation would be to use Audi parts. If the dealer is quoting for supply and fit, and TPS want £100 less for the parts then we can assume that TPS are charging you near retail for the parts - based on the dealer charging about an hour to do the work. Do you intend to do the work yourselves? Are we talking just fronts (or backs) only? If you are doing this work yourself then it's worth considering the £100 saving even if you have to buy at retail. Part no. Can't really see the importance of this. If you are buying the parts at Audi then they will simply sell you the correct parts. If cost does become king, then all you need to do is to carry out an EBay search for pads for your model and year, and you will come up with numerous aftermarket makes - some of which I wouldn't touch! If you feel you want to buy at 'best price' then look for Brembo or EBC ( of which there are different grades). There will be others cheaper, but.... This might - just might give you as good braking as original Audi pads - but you will be buying on price. Unfortunately, my source of Audi parts at discount has dried up, but someone else may be able to help you with this, since this would be your best route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Esat, The theory about changing the tyre profile should be well documented on the websites of some of the major players in the Internet tyre suppliers. As I recall, perhaps (but please check and reassure yourself) changing the profile by one 'size' from say 40 to 45 should not be too drastic, but of course you are increasing the total diameter and technically this will alter the gearing. I think the theory would again point you to changing the wheels to 17 inch if you want to increase the profile to say 50. You will need to work it out yourself, but 40 refers to the tyre wall height being 40% of the tyre width, so if you wanted to change to 45 then the tyre wall height would increase by around 6mm by rough calculation. Work out 40% of your 245mm, then 45% of 245 and this will give you the difference. Affects on handling, gearing etc. .?? I would look up what wheel diameters that were available for your model and start there. I can well understand your desire to move away from these unrealistically low profile since they were conceived to satisfy the motorists who want to constantly go around corners flat out - as we all do all of the time - don't we! The requirements of the motorists who want to drive reasonably and enjoy a smooth ride are ignored. Now Dunlop developed the pneumatic tyre to give comfort over the previous solid tyre..... But these low profile tyres are supposed to represent progress! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, Of course, this could be due to numerous issues, and dare I admit it - might need plugging in to assess fault codes. If it were mine:- I'd be talking with some of my friendly taxi boys and seeking their advice on a trusted local diesel specialist. (I would not be taking it to Audi or an independent). They should be able to run the necessary tests for you, and this may include a leak-back test on the injectors. As you have found with replacing the crankshaft sensor ( replaced with Audi part?) you could otherwise end up changing components without any improvement, and indeed potentially introducing additional problems, since replaced parts may not be as reliable as the originals. As a matter of interest, any smoke or diesel fumes when it does eventually start when hot? Kind regards, Gareth.

WHello Vince, Possibility (1) is that they have changed the wrong s/absorber, since they too could not tell which end it was coming from. Possibilty (2) is that neither of them were/are the cause. To help finding the cause:- enquire with your friendly local MOT station, who should have the one-man-inspection 'shooter' arrangement on their inspection ramp. This is the device which (quite violently ) rocks the car from side to side to check for suspension etc. wear. This piece of kit may replicate the noise. It wouldn't surprise me with this drop of rain we are having this weekend that the creaking noise may go away, and may be no more than a 'dry' bush - but then again it might not be, so inspection is necessary. Another cover-all angles if nothing can be found is to spray all the suspension bushes with automatic transmission oil. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Good luck with finding a buyer for the car. Perhaps this is an over reaction, and not for me to say, but personally, I would think twice about leaving the registration number visible on the photos, and listing my e-mail address on an open forum. Interested parties should be able to PM you to correspond about it. Kind regards, Gareth.

I wish you all the good luck I hope you won't need Maddie. Just keep at it, and if the rejection of the car hangs on an inspection by an Audi dealer, then request a copy of the report. I don't mean to tell you what to do, but if I was in your situation I would keep a written record of all dates, and conversations as things proceed. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I'm sure others too would be very grateful for updates.

Hello Emmanuel, Sorry to hear of your issues. Irrespective of the other issues, if this car is consuming oil at the late of 1ltr/200 miles (c120 miles/pint?) then the car is practically unsuitable for reasonable use, and should be formally rejected, and returned to the selling dealer for a full refund. Your local Citizens Advice will advise you how to go about this, but you certainly need to act without delay, and do it in writing not only on the telephone. Using a thicker oil? Just don't go there - the engine was designed to use the grade stated. Good luck in getting your money back. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I assume this is a recent purchase.

Hello Steve, Unless you intend to drive this car in a way its wasn't designed for - track days etc. - I don't think you will go wrong with fitting genuine VAG parts which can often be bought at discount. We did try an 'ordinary aftermarket' brand in our A3 and literally took them out after a month, and fitted Audi ones - such was the difference. If you are intent on moving away from OEM parts for some reason ( but certainly don't make it, cost) then quality aftermarket brands such as Brembo or EBC might be a consideration. I would certainly avoid once well respected brand names, since these are largely bought-out brand names to add some kudos to basically 'cheap' products. I would just not go there. Kind regards, Gareth

Without meaning to be patronising, we are lucky to have shared in Mike H's unfortunate experience, and very importantly, benefiting from his very clear advice which he kindly passes on as an aid to others. Sad but true, forums don't normally work like that, and this is not meant as a criticism of this particular forum, but forums in general. Having said all that, it seems Mike H has not achieved the end goal without actively progressing the issue, and again, this is where things differ from the norm and it appears it's not uncommon for posters to give up on a 'can't be bothered' basis. Although it's not for this forum to dictate courses of action, I think it must be said Simon that the next move is up to you, and I'm sure Mike H will talk us through any stages where there is doubt. All I would add is that if it were me, I would retain one tyre for evidence and every action I take would be recorded by -e mail or similar. We give advice and often simply opinion on here - in my case sometimes helpful, sometimes not. One opinion I would give on this issue is that it is going to take a death or deaths before someone in a postion of responsibility is going to act. Please - someone tell me I'm wrong. No kind regards this time, just concerns. Gareth.

Thanks Kyle. Pleased you've made your decision. I don't see this forum needing to inform what should be done, but simply drawing attention to useful information and - in my case- going as far at to indicate what I would do under the circumstances. Enjoy the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

A few years ago, it was 'macho' ( or whatever the in phrase now is - I'm old!) to drive around with your spot and fog lamps on in an attempt to draw attention to themselves by saying ' look at me - I've got spot lights' . Poor inadequate beings - bless them. Then - nationally it seems - we have the groups who believe 'it's not macho if you use your indicators'! OK summer now, but when the nights draw in we will have a return of the ' I can go longer than you before putting my lights on ' brigade. This group is easily identified ( but not so easily seen!) since they like to own dark coloured cars - black is best. Now if the no lights brigade happen to mate with the no indicator groups then it's safer to simply stay in the house! Whatever happened to the one-indicator-flash-per-10mph as taught to the police? Good, sensible and workable. Another macho tactic if indicators are used - the one flash as they pull back into your lane at 70 mph. That seems to score highly with the poor inadequately. Apologies, rant over. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kyle, There are some good points here, and to me No. 1 is that you are reading up on it and asking for advice, rather than asking for advice after submitting it for a recall, and the proverbial has hit the fan. OK bad news, and as Mr. Trump would agree, fake news, travels fast, - good news not so fast- but it can only be left in your hands to decide whether to risk the recall following reading some of the outcomes on here and no doubt other forums. Question :- are you happy with it as it is? If yes, well this might also influence your decision. If it were mine, I wouldn't go near a 'recall', and to ensure this doesn't happen, I would keep the car well away from any VAG dealer and probably any independents - just to ensure you don't end up ...' We've carried out the recall sir, as part of your service!' Too late then. Hope this helps in some way. Kind regards, Gareth, p.s. It could be worth checking (via. VIN and/or reg. Number ) if any recall has indeed been carried out before you bought it.

Hello Kyle, Sorry to hear of your issue, and in the absence of any positive pointers to date, it might be worth bearing in mind that since the car is well within the manufacturer's warranty, you really don't have to worry or concern yourself about the whys wherefores of the problem. If it were mine, I would simply book it into your local or chosen Audi dealer and request they correct the fault. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very sound advice I feel, since it would not be fair to the seller to have someone else playing with this, and expecting the seller to settle the bill, without their prior permission to do this. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, That's cleared up a few things which will be helpful to others. Helping a charity and a good cause is great - and this certainly seems like a good cause. As a matter of interest, what would this service cost at a main dealer and again at an independent? I would guess that as a charity, they will be VAT exempt, so as a comparison you would need to add around 20% to their charge to get a fair comparison, so say your just short of £300 with them would come to £360 if VAT was applied as with a main dealer. So I guess the fair comparison would be to ask how much more than £360 ish would this same service cost you at an Audi dealer. Of course , cost isn't everything, and as I said, helping a good cause is rewarding in other ways. Kind regards, Gareth.

For what it is worth, I see some very valid points from both sides. These are some of my observations:- The forces re engineered website is a very poor 'advert' for their 'business' , and if this is a nationally promoted scheme then someone really needs to get their act together and inject some website promotion expertise here. The concept is to be applauded, but... I'm not sure whether the person you were talking to Paul was the actual mechanic or someone promoting the scheme - the latter usually being the case. I think Piotr has a very valid point about the origin and quality of parts and oils which will be used - there is some seriously poor quality aftermarket stock out there - some bearing bought -out brand names from once respected manufacturers. Service schedule:- major service, but apparently no inspection of braking system, steering, tyres etc.? If it were me, I would make a serious but supportive visit to the set up and see what it is actually like, ask all the questions about part sourcing, makes etc. then going forward from there. It has to be remembered that to be run properly, this has to be funded properly- if only to be able to buy in the parts required to work on the vehicles. Perhaps just a few points to keep in mind. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, I think you are right, but sorry, I cannot be sure on that. To be sure:- wander into your local dealer and ask them to look it up for you, or find a contact number for Osram technical section. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Chris. So fair do s (as we say in God's country) Audi! How to confuse and alter terminology with a total lack of consistency and logic! Kind regards, Gareth.

So this really = You asked them to drill the holes (unusual) and they drilled them in the wrong places. I bet they won't be drilled holes for many more customers in the future! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dom, Strange, but must be true, but the Audi dealer has actually drilled holes in your new plates? Plate suppliers usually (never known any different) simply supply the plates and you have to drill the holes yourself - or fix them with the correct double sidded sticky pads which is more the norm. If you asked them to drill holes for you then I agree with Paul. If you didn't ask them to drill holes - again as Paul suggests. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Thanks for coming back on this. I'm still a bit confused and this may be due to your non use of capitals. Do you mean it is specified (where is it specified? ) as a Special Edition? I am aware that in old terminology SE was used to classify Special Edition, but my belief is that Audi used these words to classify a basic specification at the time your car was new. My elderly mind is boggled by the combination of S Line and Special Edition for the same car. Of course, I could be wrong and no doubt someone will put me right. Of no particular interest, but as smart as Audi marketing may have thought they were in making basic saloons sound more glamorous by calling them Special Editions, the good old Rootes Group had been there some 60 years earlier when they called their basic saloons 'Special'! Many things are not so new as we think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sashi, 'Why is it?' The crankcase is being pressurised by the compression gasses passing the pistons due to worn piston rings and/or cylinder bores. If so forget about any additive. It would be worth checking the engine breather system to ensure it is clean and free, then repeating the test. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris from the Homeland, Now I cannot answer for 2007 and A4, but I can answer for 2006 and A3s although I would guess the same logic would have applied. 'Special Edition' was Audi marketing's clever description for the cheapest end of the model range i.e. - Basic. I know you could then specify certain extras to be built into that basic specification. S Line?? Badges added later? Or indeed the V5 ( or the 'system') showing an incorrect specification. Seems to need clarification via. the build record from the VIN? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kris, While we bask in glorious sunshine down here in the south, did you have any rain during the journey or overnight following the trip? Have you checked the coolant level to confirm there hadn't been any loss? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Greame, Sorry to hear of your problem, and I too share Steve and Paul's views on alternative scarers. Re. the possibility of claiming off your insurers:- If you haven't yet approached them, then personally I wouldn't. Just don't do it. If you have - it's probably too late to do a U turn since your potential claim will have been listed, and your premium may be adversely affected whether you choose to make a claim or not. Appreciating many (including myself) have NCB protected policies, but the reality is that it does just that - it protects the % NCB but does not protect the future premium from significant increase. Example - 50% NCB percentage is protected following a claim, but they could (and often do) double the future premium, and premiums can be inflated for up to 5 years. Just don't go there! It will seriously cost you in the short and longer term. Audi and £1000 quotation:- I would not go down that road, but entrust this to a trusted local auto electrician who should be able to sort this out for a fraction of that cost. The non electrical hose bit - friendly local garage can renew this. Back to scarers for our long-tailed friends - worth visiting an agricultural equipment dealer. I'm sure they will be knowledgeable in recommending such things to protect the framer's tractor investment of >£70K from such attack . Kind regards, Gareth.