Magnet

Insignificant Sashi, when you consider the amount of oil you are using. Did you try the dip stock blow back test? Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Andrew, .....'what do you think that would do though .? . ' ( visiting local tyre retailer) (1) It would result in an independent specialist opinion on whether you tyres need changing now. (2) whether the trade wear is uniform - if it isn't, you need to do something about it, (3) you will get opinion on whether this rate of wear is abnormal for this brand of tyre (4) if they do need changing then it would have a significant beneficial affect on your wallet by buying from the tyre retailer. There are probably more reasons for doing this, but surely that is sufficient reason to take this action. 'Dissatisfied with Audi...' ........' feeling like I am being ripped off...' First point:- I think the dissatisfaction is via the Audi dealership. Why not try another dealership within reasonable distance - to enquire about your oil changing recommendation and if it is really necessary at this point. Second point:- ... ripped off..' I think it's common knowledge that considering buying tyres at the main dealers is always going to be the most expensive route - hence my suggestion to visit your local tyre retailer. Now if you really want to avoid being ripped off then you start thinking about Internet tyre purchases for best prices for the brands and brand 'pattern' you want,..... but that's another story and another positive action! I think I can now only offer you good luck in getting this sorted (if indeed it needs sorting) via. the most efficient and cost effective route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, The plot thickens. Tyres worn to 2 mm of thread in 5000 miles? Does your wife do a bit of rallying when you are not looking? Now Audi fit premium brand tyres to their cars when new - what brand are on yours? Personally, with reasonable driving, I would expect even budget tyres to last this long. This is what I would do if it were mine:- take the car along to a local trusted tyre retailer ( avoid the national chains) and ask them to assess the amount of remaining tread and its evenness across the width of the tread. It would be useful to have this reported back to the forum before returning to your Audi dealership. Tyre brand woukd also be useful - as mentioned. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Sorry to hear of the problem with the car. Yes, I guess it could be the disc backing plates, but the usual problem with theses with a car of that age is that they rust and may distort and the disc could then rub against this distortion. If it does, it is unlikely to result in a knocking noise - more of a constant rubbing noise. I cannot see why the garage can say it ... may be..... when they should, with examination be a able to say it is or it isn't. Knocking noise- do you feel any pulsating at the brake pedal when this noise occurs? Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm at a bit of a loss with this Sasi. With the excessive rate you are using oil and no evidence of it being burnt (blue smoke) is more than a a bit confusing. Diesel rather than petrol? It might be worth pulling the dipstick up a bit with the engine running (with hot oil) to see if there is any blow-back fuming from the dipstick hole. Also worth checking the engine breather system is free and clean. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Could you let us know what the temperature gauge was showing when the light came on? Can we take it that the gauge was reading above normal and had risen gradually from normal before the light came on? When you say the light hasn't come in since, does this mean the temperature gauge has remained at normal (not a bit above) during its subsequent use? Sine you have only recently bought the car, have you thought about contacting the previous registered keeper to enquire whether there has been any previous experience of this issue during their ownership? All good background knowledge. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sashi, Am I understanding you correctly by believing you are using 1ltr of oil in 500 miles? (covering around 200 miles/pint in old English). If so, you will get through a 'sump full' in approx. 2500 miles - that is certainly excessive. Can I take it you really don't have blue smoke after leaving this engine idle (with HOT oil) then briefly blipping the accelerator? '.....some smoke on acceleration....' Colour? In my book, Cliff has this spot on. What cc engine do you have as a matter of interesting? Will it pass an MOT??? Depends on smoke ( which by what you say it may satisfy) and if you have all that 'burnt' oil ending up down the exhaust I would guess it is unlikely to pass the HC emissions. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Mileage? When was oil and filter last changed ? Grade of oil you are using?

Thanks for the photos Piotr, but it wasn't the actual machining process which concerned me, it's the wisdom of considering removing almost 10mm from the centre bore of these particular wheels. My personal opinion (and of course it's just that) is that I would not consider it in this case, if that amount of metal has to be removed. I repeat my apologies, for disagreeing with you, and obviously Roberto can decide on his safest course of action. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, '...I would get these to a specialist to - machine the centre bore to fit.' Sorry to contradict, but I'm not sure how you can safely recommend this course of action to Roberto when you don't know ( OK, I'm assuming you don't know) how much remaining metal there will be left after they are bored out. OK, this may not be a true guide, but have a look at how close the centre Audi cover is to the wheel nut holes. These may be Audi wheels, but they were obviously not designed to fit this model. Pretty they may be, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Roberto, Sorry to hear of your problem with these wheels. Apologies for being pessimistic, but I think realistic. The truth is that these wheels were not designed to fit your model, so they are non standard, and as such you would need to notify your insurerers that (if they were made to fit) that the car was now fitted with non standard road wheels - otherwise your insurance could be adversely affected if you claimed, or someone claims against you. On the question of trying to make them fit:- If I had the facility to accurately remove approx. 10mm from the centre bore of these wheels, would I? Most definitely not, since it would have an adverse affect in the structural strength of the wheel. Would I add spacers to these? Again, no I wouldn't , since the the then running centre line of the wheel will be different from that designed-in when the hub bearing position was calculated. As I said, this is all very pessimistic, but I fear it would not be wise to do anything to make these wheels fit - as appealing as they may be to you. If I was in your situation, I would be selling these on and buying wheels which were optional available designs when the model was built. If you stick with this, they should fit and they should not have any adverse insurance implications. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brad, Sorry to hear of your issue , but I feel this problem is not something you should need to trouble yourself over. Since the car is no more then 6 months old and obviously well within warranty, the simple solution is to arrange to return it to the dealer for them to resolve the unacceptable problem at VAG's expense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sashi, To answer the broad brush question of whether oil 'additives' will fix your priblem, depends on what the details of the problem are, apart for some oil on the spark plug threads on nos. 3 & 4. Is the car using oil, and if so what quantity over what mileage? Does the car emit blue smoke at any time? If it does use some oil and if it pushes out blue smoke, you need to find out when it emits blue smoke. Following a 10 mile run, rev the engine to a steady 2000rpm for at least two minutes and see if it pushes out blue smoke. If it does then it's likely to be worn piston rings, but other on-road tests would be necessary to really determine this. Next test is to let the engine idle (again after a 10 mile run) then quickly blip the accelerator and look for blue smoke. If it blows out smoke on this test, then it's more likely to be worn valve guides/ valve stem seals. If you have worn piston rings then I doubt whether any additive is going to be of much help. If it's worn valve stem seals then it may. These work on the principle of 'attacking' the rubber components in seals and making them swell, so really a bodge! , but.... Perhaps you can give us some more information. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Sorry to hear you now cannot have the engine of your choice. I'm sure someone on here will be able to advise on the pros and cons of the lower powered engine in comparison with the original 3ltr. Apologies, I cannot. Re. '...wondered whether I will end up with the facelift model.......' Just wondered if you knew of this impending facelift when you ordered for the August delivery? Presumably not, since I guess you would have waited to ensure you are not registering new a just-to-be-replaced vehicle. It's probably me baulking at the perceived belief that vehicle will be valued the same as the incoming new 1st. September registration - the salesman's August sales generating speak. I think this might work out to your advantage Rob if you carefully specify your requirements :- you will not want the outgoing model. These run out models are frequently sold at attractive prices and fitted with extra toys.... but obviously depreciate more quickly and of course are outdated as new! You require the vehicle to registered under a 68 plate - which of course it willl now be since it's not due to you until September. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back on this Claire, and we are pleased for you that it is only minor damage. I think you have done the right thing by getting the car inspected to gain reassurance that the damage is indeed confined to the parts you see. I don't think you can assume all is well until it has been inspected and confirmed to be so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Claire, Many thanks for the prompt reply, and it certainly does clarify things. Sorry to have asked, but in the original photos, the parts on the right could be confused for being metal, and looked rather 'deteriorated' for the age. My stab it this is that they are part of the general front under tray assembly and covers for where the jack would be placed (probably the lowest points on the car). Safe to drive? Always a difficult question and one where I would respond by suggesting that although you know these (probably structurally insignificant) parts are damaged/detached, you don't really know the full extent of any unseen damage. If it were mine, I would be calling in to your friendly local garage at the first opportunity (almost certsin to be dealt with quicker than trying to book it in to the Audi dealer), and asking them to put it or the ramp and inspect the damage for you. Armed with this information, you can then nip along to Audi and order the parts, and again, if it were me, I would get your local garage to fit them for you - assuming there isn't any other 'structural' damage. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Claire, Sorry to hear of your issue. A couple of pointers which may be of help:- Could you confirm that these are not off your 2018 A3, and if you would be able to post underside views of the two parts shown on the left of the photos. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sorry to hear that 'no one is talking to you'. Disappointing for you, and forum to hear your comments. OK , your comments are real and meaningful, and you could well be correct in your analysis that ..... (Your) ..'questions are too technical for this forum,?????...' I'm sure you will appreciate John that this (and no doubt many other forums) are followed and responded to by amateurs, who's knowledge will very often be limited to experience of having dealt with a specific problem in the past. I don't think we are blessed with too many actual current-hands-on Audi technicians - unfortunately. Technical questions are sometimes just that, and can be testing for those trying to help, and it would seem from your questions that you may be possibly more clued up on some of this modern technology that the folks on here, so the chances of gaining free advice in an extention of your knowledge - may be rather slim. Unfortunate in your cases, but seemly you have a valid point. A couple of things I would point out:- I think SteveQ is correct when be welcomes new posters on hear by saying that contributors are generally friendly. All I can add to that is that I think the majority of responders genuinely try to be helpful - if they can! The good folks who 'run' this forum do so 'freely' and without reward. Personally, I think they aim to do the best they can with what they have. Finally Steve - as I said- I get the impression that you are generally clued up on the type of question you ask, and I think the forum would benefit from your input to perhaps help others who are not do knowledgeable. It's the potential for assistance from the likes of yourself which keep this going. Having carried in too long, I'm going to forget about problems and just enjoy the day. Off now to a nice drive in the classic car to a friendly show in my home village. Have a good day Steve, Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Apologies - no time to check to check for typos.

Hello Steve (Sheffield), Front or back? Mileage? I too agree with Steve - it would be unusual for a bearing to become noisy on a car of this age unless the the mileage is high for the year. (say>100K). Having said that, we thought we were experiencing rear wheel bearing noises on an A3 at around 90k, but in fact the noise was due to tyres ( premium brand) wearing to slight flatting points as they approached 4mm remaining thread. Perhaps you could let us have some answers to the questions, and no doubt someone can advise from there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Eliminating the basic silly things first :- Are you sure the air conditioning is off? It is off when the Econ button shows a red light. Well at least if the 2007 model is the same as the 2006. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sorry to hear of your problems, but very pleased that you have sorted it. When I got to the section of your post and mentioned the brake lights being on, my thoughts were pointed in the direction of a faulty 'brake' light switch. Others more up to date on this latest technology will hopefully confirm that the days of the brake light switch being just that, have long gone, and this switch controls or influences many other functions. When we think of the number of times this makes and breaks as we drive, it's little wonder it can fail. Without being patronising John, it's a revelation to read your post and find that the reason for the problem has been recorded. Unfortunately such follow up is rare, and original posters seldom report back, so the experience can be shared to the benefit of other owners. Happy motoring from this point on. ... Company I bought it off has disappeared .... Not down Swansea way by any chance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathan, Since you are not doing the clutch yourself, do you mind if I repeat my earlier comments about the parts being used. As with all aftermarket parts, there is a fair/ high proportion of low/lower quality parts which are just not worth the labour charge to fit - particularly in your case where the clutch will be subjected to extra strain. Would I just leave it to the garage to chose what make they use? No I certainly wouldn't. Would I fit any other aftermarket clutch apart from LUK? No I wouldn't. Slightly dearer, but well worth the little extra overall in the long run. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Maintaining a sense of humour is an essential part of the day Steve! Apologies for drifting well off the original topic Barry. It's not usually this bad. We trust you are able to get to the bottom of the issue. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, I too am sorry to hear of your grandfather's passing. Judging by your questions, I think the car's future is in good hands. Your questions:- Restore it and keep it? Of course, this will have to be a personal choice, and sentiment (over economics) may play a big part in your decision. Space availability and a spannering ability will also come in to it to some extent. I am sure there will be advice available here if you decide to keep it. Repair and sell? Personally I would not advise spending on it to sell it, since this car will ( generally) only attract enthusiasts, and they will be usually be capable of repairing this. Selling? Its condition , mileage and history are unknow to us, so values and desirabilities are difficult to assess. To sell it to a good home, it needs to be advertised in the right quarters, and I would suggest trying "Classic Car Weekly' and 'Classic Car Buyer' - both offer a free advertising service. As you probably know, cars of this age are now MOT exempt, so technically it could be driven away once taxed and insured. Personally, I would cover yourself with some wording advising against this, since you are not sure of its road worthiness. Another selling bonus is that the car will qualify for cheap/er classic car insurance. Again the publications mentioned, will carry adverts which will help you or a buyer. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

hello Nathan, "Clutch was slipping" in 3rd. and 4th........" Are you saying the clutch was slipping before you had this car remapped? I would have thought that a slipping clutch at 112K miles is unusual, unless the car has been driven over enthusiastically. We have a 147K Audi still on its original, and I would be surprised if this - and far far greater mileages, isn't out of the ordinary. Anyway, if its slipping its slipping, so its either a case of .... 'not giving it some welly', or as you say, investing in a new clutch (and DMF assembly?). Performance kit? Sounds like a good idea if available. If you are buying aftermarket then you won't go far wrong with LUK clutches, (personally this is the only aftermarket make I would use) but probably will with anything else which might be bought on a best-price principle. I'm sure others will be able to give you far more pointers in regard to the .... performance clutch bit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Steve for being critical of me mentioning the marque starting with J on here. Shouldn't be allowed, but someone has to keep the Tata family in pocket money! This our 3rd one in something like 30 years, and I must confess to even having a brief John Prescott moment a couple of years back when I actually had two! They gave me some tablets for it, and I'm back to just the normal one now. Many thanks for having a look at the Removed bits. Personally I think it's pretty good as it is, and I'm sure it filters out unacceptable 4 letter words etc. What it doesn't seem to do is to filter out the abreviations for some of these words e.g. WTx. etc. I just wondered if this could be looked at and these things also dealt with as !Removed! Apologies for adding some extra work, but might be worth having a look at as time allows. Perhaps the Forum Rules could also be updated and request that posters do not use abreviations of unacceptable words. Many thanks again Steve, Kind regards, Gareth.