Magnet

Hello Alan, Sorry to hear you have been added to the list of folks affected by this serious issue. It is reassuring for the wallet that you have wheel and tyre insurance, but possibly being alarmist, insurance will be of little use should one of these tyres decide to do what they appear to do in service, and when life might depend on it. Changing to Continentals next time, sounds a wise decision, but being prepared to live with the potential problem meanwhile??? Different. Maybe less painful on the wallet, but...... Keep touching wood! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Thanks for clarifying that. I could be wrong, but I doubt if anyone on here would have greater experience of Audi part numbers than the Audi dealer themselves. I’m still left wondering why you want details of the actual part number rather than just the part itself, which must be available (or not) via. the dealer on description rather than quoting them the part number. Perhaps you could enlighten us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Sorry to appear unhelpful, but I would think it’s virtually impossible for anyone to identify the actual cause without inspecting the vehicle, and to attempt to do so is likely to simply lead to wasting valuable diagnosis time. If the car is drivable with caution and respect, then I would have thought any reputable local garage should be able to identify a cause of what appears to a fairly catastrophic failure. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Sorry if I’ve missed something here, but are you talking the whole wiring loom within the car, or a section of your it? If (somewhat unbelievably) you are talking the complete wiring loom for the car, then surely your local Audi dealer will provide you with the loom/part number. Same if part of the wiring loom. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ed, Just to confirm that the clutch is completely smooth it’s it’s operation, the bite point is.....? as Cliff asks, and the selection of all other gears - particularly first and reserve - is absolutely trouble free. If this is indeed the case, then I would be first looking at any wear/ adjustment issues in relation to the external selection of 3rd gear. Cliff raises a fair point by drawing attention to not eliminating the clutch simply since it is new. Unfortunately it’s is becoming an increasing issue where new aftermarket components can be substandard, leading to issues in a very short space of time. As a matter of interest- what make of clutch components were used as replacement? What mileage has the car covered Ed, to warrant a new clutch? Gearbox oil level checked, and of specified grade? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Philip, I would be wary of what brands you are going to buy if going down the aftermarket route. OK, it understandable that we all want to look after the pennies, but sometimes (often) it can be false economy - even in the short term, when discs can exhibit warping characteristics and will need to be replaced. More so with some aftermarket brake pads when braking efficiency can be reduced, and rapid wear can be encountered. I can give personal opinion and advice experience if you have particular brands in mind - if it helps rather than interferes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, Modern fuel is more volatile than it used to be, but the likelihood of fuel vapourisation should be able to be discounted on the age of car you have. On the basis of simple things first, I would be tempted to replace the fuel filter with a good make replacement, and see if that improves the situation. If it doesn’t, it could be worth renewing the fuel pump relay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, Sorry, but I’m not familiar with the source of your reference sheet. What make discs are you intending to buy - genuine VAG or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what brand? Do you want to replace all of them or just fronts or backs? Whatever, your supplier should be able to provide you with the correct discs by simply quoting your registration number. In some cases, the current disc dia. may be useful additional information, so if you intend to replace these yourself then it might be worth doing a preliminary wheel removal and measurement first. Personally, I would just quote your reg. no. in the first stage or fact finding. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steven, Having experienced a significant deterioration in braking efficiency by fitting aftermarket pads on an ordinary A3, (quickly replaced) I now only use genuine VAG parts. OK, money can be saved, but..... Of course, there are once-respected aftermarket brands out there, but personally I would not use them anymore. If your driving style is such that you favour ‘enhanced performance’ braking then the likes of EBC offer a variety of specifications. It might be useful to let the forum know if you have some non VAG brands in mind, and no doubt you will receive some kind experienced feedback. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vincent, Thanks for coming back on this. I think you are very wise to give the car a thorough service - it will endure you will have a good base point to move forward from for future maintenance. Good practice? For me, it’s always good quality materials, particularly since you will be making considerable savings by doing it yourself. I would change oil, air and fuel filters, and if not using genuine VAG parts then I have found Mann or Bosch brands to be good. Personally, I would not use any other brands, but simply search best prices for these brands. Air con? or too early. If it does then worth checking if it has a pollen filter, Engine oil? Please don’t accept this as accurate, but I would not be surprised if your car was originally designed to run on 10w/40 semi synthetic rather than the more modern 5w/30 fully synthetic. If 10w/40 is recommended then I have used Shell Helix in my similar age non-Audi. If (in caps) it is 5w/30, then I use Quantum Longlife 3. It seems you will be changing the thermostat, so a good opportunity to flush the system and renew the coolant with the correct antifreeze. The car was probably running on the old blue antifreeze, but check the current colour incase someone has updated it. Belts? Cambelt if not chain? Do you know when it was replace. Alternator belt :- always worth renewing. Obviously you will go through the braking system, tyres, hoses, etc. etc. Kind regards, Gareth. Haynes manual? I would have thought so ( unlike more current models). Worth checking on EBay.

Hello Vincent, A faulty thermostat sounds the most likely diagnosis. I would be wary of buying an aftermarket one, since they can be unreliable. OK, VAG ones are comparatively expensive, but worthwhile in terms of the potential for repeat labour, and the possibility of an aftermarket replacement causing overheating. Petrol smell?? Very difficult, but apart from the obvious fuel hoses, it would be worth looking at fuel filter connections and petrol filler breather tubes. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Oops! Warning lights and below par batteries are a fact of life. Before worrying about ECUs/BCUs, it would probably be worth charging the battery overnight (or 12 hours) then getting its efficiency checked. Halfords do this, but the battery must be in a reasonably charged condition first. If the battery proves to be serviceable ( but why did it need jump starting?) then you have at least eliminated this as a possible cause with little or no outlay. If the battery is shown to be below par, then you need to fit a new one - up to you whether you buy from Halfords or not. Fitting a good serviceable battery may (just may) solve the problem, but even if it doesn’t, you would have needed to replace it anyway. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Two things to consider:- Manufacturers claimed figures are generally just that. Pinches of salt comes to mind. I take it the car is relatively new and has yet to fully loosen up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, OK, The logic is that if you don’t change it now, along with the cambelt assembly, then it’s going to stay put and be expected to do around 120,000 miles by the next time the belt change is due. Would you be happy to ‘take the risk’ with that mileage? Replacing the water pump at the same time as the cambelt assembly entails a relatively small amount of extra work in terms of extra labour. Changing it at some later date just doesn’t make economical sense. The cost of the water pump as a part? Around £100? ,so not changing it is going to save a bit of the overall large sum, but the risk factor of a blown engine at some point prior to 120,000 miles, of service has to be considered. If this were mine, I would be seeking alternative quotes at other main dealers, but ensure the work carried out will be like for like. I would then get quotes from reputable independents using only genuine VAG parts. Apologies for repeating. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, ’.....trust me....’ . Really no reason to distrust you Joe! , but I certainly would question your opinion, but appreciate it’s always a person choice. ‘...saving at least 5 minutes’ (by using a pressure lance). So what are you going to do with this extra 5 minutes? Pressure lances are exactly what they say they are - they deliver water at a high enough pressure to remove grit and grime from your patio. They do the same thing for the far more delicate paintwork of your car, and over a relatively short space of time they will turn the paintwork lacquer milky due to bombarding it with water at a high pressure. OK so you have an extra few minutes spare at the end of each week -eventually enough time to contemplate the effects on the paintwork, and think if it removes heavy grim from your decking, it will certainly eroded your paintwork! Cool?? I’m very much with WPAWS, but as I said, it’s a personal choice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gregor, Really sorry to hear of your sad loss. Could I suggest you list your asking price so you stand the best chance of finding it a good home. Kind regards, Gareth.

What I meant Graham was that you (in caps) e- mail them (in caps) outlining the problem, so the problem and the date it was raised, is recorded, and most importantly, you (in caps) have the evidence. If you are waiting for them to e-mail you, then you are probably in for a long enough wait to have missed the warranty deadline! Please don’t leave yourself open to that old dodge. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks like low washer fluid to me too Janis. Any VAG dealers near to you? If so, worth calling in for advice. If it is low washer fluid then it’s likely to be due to a faulty level switch or a bad contact onto it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you put the all important bit in writing to them Graham? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graham, Apologies if this initially appears to be unhelpful, but I really would not waste valuable time in trying to canvas opinion on the forum, when your far better option would be to book it into the main dealer and leave them sort the issue out under warranty. I’m sure you will appreciate that it would be very difficult for anyone to diagnose the actual cause of the problem without examining the car. If I may offer you advice:- Book the car in without delay and ( most importantly) e-mail them the details of the problem and the date you registered this discontent. If they say they cannot look at the car immediately then it’s even more important to e-mail them with the date and nature of the complaint. As I see it, if you have proof of registering the problem before the warranty expires, then they have a duty to sort it out, even if the resolution takes the time beyond the warranty and expiry date. I’m sure you will see the importance of having proof ( via. e-mail not simply phone call) for this to work. Time is of the essence here Graham, Good luck in sorting it out, and perhaps you would let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dariusz, I’m not sure if you are saying that you have now changed all tyres on the car to a different make ?? What to do? Worth reading all the posts and deciding what you want to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, If you search this forum under Cambelt change, you should find a recent post (within the last couple of weeks?) where I’ve attempted to cover this chapter and verse. Kind regards, Gareth.

No Mathew. My advice is based on what I would do if I was in your situation, and OK, it’s my logic, but I think it is a reasonable path to go down, and more often than not it’s not a bad thing to plough your own furrow, rather than getting someone to plough it for you. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Sorry to hear of your problem. Is this really a 1968 car? If so, I wonder where you are going to find another one as a spares car, and if you do, what are the economics of buying that, getting the engine removed and swapped into your existing one, when considered against getting your existing crankshaft issue sorted via grinding and new bearings. Perhaps you could fill in a little more detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, Sorry to hear of your issue. I would say that the route to claim would need to be through the ‘engine reconditioners’ rather than through Audi themselves. If the reconditioners were an Audi dealership, or the work was carried out on behalf of such a dealership, then that would certainly aid your claim. You say ‘....last year...’. Was that within the last 12 months? If so, there shouldn’t be any issue about claiming since the reasonable guarantee period is usually taken as 12 months. More than 12 months ago? Even so, the reasonable life expectancy of a reconditioned engine should be in excess of your covered 11,000 miles ( subject to evidence of expected oil and filter change). Why not take advice from CAB regarding making a a claim at the ‘Small Claims Court’ ( or whatever it is called now)? I’m sure it would be useful for the forum to know where and how you go forward from here. Kind regards, Gareth.