Magnet

It's strange how most if not all of the posts associated with this very serious issue (in my opinion) seem to end up open ended.

Hello Mark, Sorry to hear of your issue. What is the cause??, but logic would suggest it isn't the motors since it would be unlikely the two window motors would be suspect at the same time. Possible relay?? What I would say is that a straightforward continuity test can be meaningful, but it simply relies on a very low voltage supply. Measuring actual voltages is far more meaningful and it might be worth checking that. The driver's door is the main controller and of course is the door most often used, and the flexible harness into it can become brittle over time. Some of the harness wires may be virtually broken, but still satisfy a continuity test. If it were mine, I would be investing in the services of an auto electrician for an hour to fault find this, and then you could carry out the repair yourself if you want to save some funds. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Liam, If it were mine, I would not ( should be in capitals) drive this car - not even to the garage. You have a low oil pressure warning, and the worrying thing is you have an engine rattle. This car is trying to tell you something - such as the lack of oil pressure which this light is advising you of. This could be - and you hope not - a symptom of no oil being pumped under pressure around the engine. Sorry Piotr, but personally I would not be inclined to think along the lines of a faulty oil pressure warning switch. The engine is rattling which suggests low/zero oil pressure , rather than good oil pressure and a faulty sensor. Please Liam, treat these symptoms with respect. I can just wish you good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karen, I think there is a danger of over complicating this. If you are buying secondhand, then I cannot really see a great advantage in part numbers for panels. Simply take photos of the parts on the good side and ask potential sellers to e-mail exchange photos with you for what they have. If you really do want to have the part numbers then I would be ringing an Audi dealer,armed with the registration and VIN numbers, and asking for prices and part numbers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Spot on Trevor. Many thanks. I'm sure you are much better with figures than you think Steve. The logic behind this was that the numbers applying to the A and D of Audi had already been given in Skoda, so you only needed the U and I Best clue was with the adjacent letters V and W which also had adjacent numbers 22 and 23, out of the 26 letters of the alphabet. So A would have been 1 or 01 and Z =26. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karen, A couple of possible pointers for you (apologies if you have already been there):- Try registering your 'wants' with the secondhand car parts search companies with which scrap yards, nationally, link into . Any holding the parts you want will then contact you. One is Partsgateway or Partsfinder ( or similar) I think, but you will find more on a search. Tried good old E.Bay? I think you will have to expand your search to the correct panels in any colour. Obtaining the correct colour is likely to be very much of a long shot, and even if you do, you will inevitably find the panels will have storage marks and will need to be refinished anyway. Good luck and kind regsrds, Gareth.

I go along with James' advice of always checking with your insurers before doing anything such thing- it could otherwise result in a serious monetary discontent, or indeed a straight refusal to even quote. Extra power is fine, but if I was seriously considering having a car remapped, then I would make sure that the air filter, fuel filter, oil and oil filters are all renewed beforehand with good quality components. Otherwise it's a bit like buying and wearing a posh new suit and having ragged underpants! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mario, There are a couple of things I would be doing (as a matter of some urgency if you say this is since hitting a pothole):- Remove the road wheels and very carefully check each tyre and wheel in great detail, looking for bulges etc. on tyres and cracking/distortion on wheel rims. You may find this easier to have done at a tyre depot, but please ensure they take this inspection very seriously. If everything is found to be in order then you will need to check the brake discs for distortion, and you will need to find someone with a dial gauge to do this. Perhaps a good tyre depot or a brake specialist. If you are still failing to find the cause after this then please come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, It might be me or my system, but unfortunately the video doesn't show me anything or present any noises. Can you record your noise and post it on here? - otherwise we are all/ well at least me are shooting in the dark. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mario, I guess for fabrication you mean vibration. It would be useful to know if what you are referring to can be felt as a pulsing of the brake pedal, as well as a vibration, when you are braking. We might be able to suggest some additional tests once you come back with an answer. Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Matt, If you didn't go for Poundland then we take it you have the correct number battery and it's been inserted correctly. Before going to the main dealer ( who are likely to extract around £70 out of your wallet) it might be worth trying the simple one of inserting the key in the ignition and turning it to postion 2 ( the one before the starter) five times, and on the fifth turn (ignition lights on) press the lock and unlock buttons, then switch off and try to start the car, or lock and unlock. Probably won't work, but it doesn't cost anything! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Sorry to hear of your issue. First probably daft question, but are you sure you have fitted the correct number battery as per the handbook and it has been fitted the right at up. I would certainly avoid Poundland specials! Let's say you have. If so, if you scan this and other forums you will find quite a few procedures on this to recode the second key from the first. Being pessimistic, I've tried them all without success, although my key will start the car, but not lock/unlock. If you too don't have any luck then it's a trip to the dealer- or independent? , or even worth asking at your local used car site since these boys usually have their fingers on the pulse of knowing where to go. Let us know how you get on Matt. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Drew, Sorty to hear of your issue. If you think about this logically then even if the discs are pitted then the brakes should not judder much, although they might well be noisy after some lack of use until, the surface corrosion wears off. Such brake associated juddering problems are usually caused by 'warped' discs and the only way to assess this properly is to get the disc 'run out' measured with a dial gauge - no dismantling required apart from taking off the wheel. My action with this would be to drive the car for about 100 miles with gentle to normal braking and see if the shuddering lessens. If not, then get the discs checked independently as above. One question :- where/ how do you get your car cleaned? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Steve, The brain teaser is along the lines of:- If Skoda translates to the number listed, what number would represent Audi. 23 is wrong. Correct answer will run to 8 digits. It's 'thimple', but then again I know the answer, so it's easy for me! Many thanks for having a stab at it Steve. Sorry you are wrong since you have a good record of near misses so far. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, I would say it's time to give up trying to analyse the situation and either accept it as it is (and personality I wouldn't) or do something about it - which I would. I think the 'faulty' oil filter is likely to be a red herring (although it could be, and will be VAG's fault if it is) and the oil loss is more likely to be from its incorrect fitting. 'No lasting damage'? Highly questionable, since any engine which has been run low on oil to a point where the oil pump fails to pick up oil to pressurise, is unlikely to have survived without any damage - lasting or otherwise. If it were mine, I would be urgently sending a recorded delivery letter to the dealer general manager and a copy to the head of Audi Customer Services outlining the circumstances, and stating that you will hold them responsible for any associated engine issues - particularly within the guarantee period. I would reinforce this with noting a total lack of apology and a general discontent with the way this situation was subsequently dealt with. See what comes back from this, and then decide if you are going to return to this dealership for any subsequent servicing. Let us know how you get on Dean. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Trevor, OK, a brain teaser this week rather than a motoring history question.:- If Skoda. = 19 11 15 04 01 . VW. = 22 23 Seat. = 19 05 01 20 What does Audi = Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, I really feel for you and your family's concerns regarding travelling in this car with dangerous tyres. It would seem that this is now of a 'national' scale and importance. This is simply unacceptable and life threatening. I have suggested ways to complain about this in the past, but there doesn't seem to be any feedback on reactions to my proposals either from the original posters or from Dunlop if my suggestions were followed. It might be worth reading what I suggested rather than me repeating it again. If it were me, I would not let these tyres out of my sight, or entrust the complaint to be left solely in the hands of your dealer. If you consider your current postion, it is one where you don't have any evidence to support your concern/claim - the dealer has it all! Not a good place to be. I would be retrieving two of the faulty four, leaving two with the dealer, and following my earlier advice about writing to the CEO of Dunlop. Do not (should be capitals) leave yourself in a situation where you hand over the full evidence to anyone - always retain at least one example, and photograph the defects on all four as soon as possible. It would be great if you could keep us posted on the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, I would most certainly go along with Cliff's logic on this. Car was sound before they serviced it. Is the dealership saying they are not going to stand the cost of repair, or in my book, a replacement engine? If so , I would say it's a trip to the C A B or similar. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Audi may - and it is a may- be able to advise you what the correct fitment pads are for your car, but I would think ECP and the rest of the aftermarket suppliers will want to know what make calipers are fitted to the car, and probably the disc dia, since it appears there were different fitments for this model year. If it were mine, I would be removing the wheel and noting the calliper make or numbers and using this information to find the correct pads. You just as well measure the disc dia. at the same time. If you are going to buy aftermarket pads then personally I would be using something like EBC rather than the once respected branded ones which are little more than bought out brand names. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, It's probably me, but I'm not quite sure where you are measuring your 8 mm. Are you saying the pads are 8mm too 'short' in the caliper? Perhaps you could let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shane, Sorry to hear of your issue. If it were mine I would be getting a second opinion on this before proceeding further. A good source might be a local Audi independent, or if not, then a good, trusted wheel alignment operator who should be experienced in checking for wear before carrying out adjustments ( obviously you will just need the checking for wear bit). They should have 'turntables' which minimise the load on the wheels as you turn them. Forba final confirmation, it would be advisable to disconnect the track rod ends and reassess for noise. This will eliminate the possibility that the noise may be associated with upper suspension mounts etc. Let us know how you get one Shane. Kind regards, Gareth.

Answer:- DKW - Dampf Fraft Wagen (steam driven car) in 1932. Merged with Audi to form Auto Union - so we'll done there Steve - and continued to produce cars until 1966. Will give this a miss for a bit since there isn't much activity with it. Just let me know if anyone wants the occasional teaser question. Anyway it might have been useful in some respects. It will now be possible to earn a pint off AA patrolmen when they don't know why their vans are painted yellow. A further pint off the go faster stripes boys, and upset BMW M3 drivers by reminding them that their marque had its origins in a humble British car. Also upset the classic Mini followers claim to being the first front wheel drive transverse engined cars. Kind regards, Gareth

Many thanks indeed Ross for updating the forum with your experiences with this. I'm sure your 'trial' will be of help to others. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, Sorry to hear of your issues. Could we just check whether you have replaced the battery with a genuine VAG supplied one, or with one that has been bought elsewhere. If not VAG supplied - make? Kind regards, Gareth.

OK sorry Lee, Obviously your later A3 behaves differently to the previous model where red light on = ECO on ( AC off). Kind regards, Gareth.