Magnet

Thanks Andy, Appreciate the convenience of a minimum-level sensor for engine oil, but I'm old fashioned (well simply old actually!) and tend to check the dip stick approx. every month. Again, out of interest, how much oil do you add between min. and max? 1/1.5 litres? Grade of oil you are using Andy? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I believe Audi (and most other manufacturers) list the expected oil consumption in the handbook, and the quoted consumption can often be much higher than would be considered reasonable. My guess would be that the consumption of your car would not be considered 'excessive', but I am sure some similar engines will have negligible consumption if they have been serviced at regular intervals. Others far more knowledgeable on this engine will perhaps give opinion on whether these engines did have issues - something rings bells. It would be interesting to know if the car's compumption has recently increased during ownership, or if you have acquired it, and are now finding its consumption. We take it that the recommend grade of quality oil is being used. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds great and all boxed up Chris, and your car sales dealer has indeed gone the extra mile for you. Happy new year and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, So we now know that this car has been workshop examined as opposed to just getting a verbal opinion. With knowledge of that, if it were mine, I would now be contacting Audi Customer Services and expressing my (understandable) discontents, and requesting an independent assessment of the problem. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Happy new year and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Many thanks for the additional useful information. Low coolant level warning? Now seems inexplicable with knowledge of what has been done. I think I would still suspect this to be associated with a contact issue, and I would revisit this if it were mine, but if you keep an eye on the actual level then I guess this spurious warning would be something that can be lived with. Temperature only getting to 65 degrees? I would put my money on this being a thermostat issue, despite the car being only 4 years old. Not sure where it lives in your engine, but 4 hours labour would suggest it's somewhere inhospitable! A total estimated cost of c£500 would equate to the part costing only c£100 ( labour est. at £100/hr). If it were mine, I would be wandering into (another) Audi dealer and getting an actual cost and description for the part, and establishing whether the part is available as simply the thermostat, or if it is supplied including a housing (usually plastic). I would then be enquiring about the cost of fitting it at the same main dealer. It would also be useful to have an alternative quote from an independent. I've just replaced the thermostat on our 12 year old 1.6 A3 and that is now spot on on temperature, as opposed to being reluctant to get close to 'normal'. If you do decide to replace yours then my recommendation would be to only fit a genuine VAG part (particularly with the anticipated labour charges) since aftermarket ones can be variable in quality and reliability - so just don't go there! Does the car have a full main dealer service history? When did you buy it, and did you buy it from a main dealer. Subject to the answers, it might be well worth contacting Audi and presenting your issues to them - they may be prepared to make some contribution. I hope 2019 is kind to you and yours, and that you can get this issue sorted easier and cheaper than the current estimate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Looking at this from a detached point of view, is it reasonable for Audi to sell near-new cars which make a noise from the rear brakes under the conditions you describe? Personally, if a salesperson had informed me of this before parting with hard-earned, I think I would have chosen to by another marque. Would the 'reported this twice' mean that they have given you a verbal opinion that it is 'normal', but have not examined the car to ascertain whether there is anything wrong with it or not? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Many thanks for updating us on this. The garage you bought the car from appears to be very accommodating on this - really well beyond the 'call of duty', and all you now need is some written confirmation (can be done by you e-mailing them along the lins of ..... further to our earlier conversation ......) that they will reimburse you half the cost of you getting the belt kit and water pump renewed at an Audi dealer. Is it yet due for renewal though? You will need to contact a dealer, or couple of dealers to be certain of sound advice, and asking them for the interval at which this needs doing. It will always be x miles or x years, whichever comes first. There is something in my mind which points me to 80k or 8 years, but please do not take this as read. There could be a question mark over whether the belt assembly on this 6year old/ 64K car is actually due yet. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Being a but pessimistic, I doubt if you will hear from the original poster via. this thread. It might be worthwhile contacting him by PM. On to your issue:- Does/did the poor starting apply in non-winter weather as well? When you say '.....the garage....' - are these diesel specialists? If not, I would certainly recommend you spend your investigation money with a trusted local diesel specialist rather than an ordinary local garage. Local taxi drivers are often a good source of recommendations for diesel specialists. Relay? It could be a fuel pump relay, but I would think this is an assumption rather than a known issue. 'Really don't know where to go from here'. If the issue is a cold weather problem, then it could (just could) be glow plugs.These - and the associated wiring can be checked. Injectors? Again it could be, and again these can be assessed by a basic leak-back test. Your wallet needs to hope it isn't an injector issue! Do you get smoke and an excessive smell of diesel when it does start? Hopefully the above will be of some help, but you really need to invest in an hour or so labour at the specialists, which should save you money in the long run. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, My first port of call would be trawl through the service history by checking with the servicing garages ( main dealers?) when this belt was last changed. I guess you would have bought this from a non Audi dealership, due to the age if the car, but irrespective, I think you will find that cam belt changes are 'service items' and would not form part of a warranty cover - very much like tyres etc. needing changing from time to time. Personally, even if they were prepared to make some form of contribution, I would be wary of entrusting the job to them since it is highly likely to be 'lowest cost option', and as such, after market parts could be used, rather than VAG parts. If so, and the water pump is changed, then aftermarket pumps can be of variable quality and serviceability - with potentially frightening consequences. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello A, '........drops of oil coming out of the exhaust...' Strange! Are you sure this is oil? Try creating a puddle of water in line with the end of the exhaust. If it's oil drops then the drips will create a spectrum effect on the surface of the water. Back pressure from removed oil filter cap hole? If you can see oil fumes and experience any pressure then combustion gas pressure is where it shouldn't be. You can do the same type of test by partially removing to dip stick. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello A ? The oil 'leak' you show is insignificant. Since as you say, you cannot see any evidence of a severe leak, then the engine must be burning it - at the phenomenal rate of about 275 miles to the pint in old English! 'No crazy blue smoke out of the exhaust.....' Have you come to this conclusion by getting someone to follow you after a 5 mile warm up, and observing the exhaust during acceleration? Also, have you tested the exhaust smoke after leaving the engine idle for a couple/three minutes following a 5 mile run, then increasing the revs to around 2000 rpm. What grade and brand of oil are you using? Have you tried removing the oil filler cap and assessing the degree of back pressure ( of course being careful about hot oil splashes etc.)? As a matter of interest, what mileage has the car covered and what servicing history does it have? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Sorry to hear of your issues. Of course, it's always difficult to diagnose problems at a distance, particular when specialists, who have had access to the car have failed. Let's try to deal with these one by one:- Coolant level sensor- you don't say if this sensor has been replaced, unless it was when the reservoir was renewed. This could be as simple as a dodgy connector onto the actual sensor (normally lives inhospitably, under the reservoir). If it were mine, I would be removing the connctor and treating it with contact cleaner and reconnecting/disconnecting it a couple of times. Not cured? Change the sensor for a VAG one only ( aftermarket ones can be more troublesome). Coolant failing to reach temperature - surely the 'specialists' can carry out actual live temperature readings as this car as it's being driven. This will confirm or refute if the gauge reading is correct or not. If the actual coolant temperature reaches to around the upper 90s then suspect the renewed temperature sensor (VAG or aftermarket?). If the temperature only reaches around 60 - which I suspect it will- then suspect the thermostat. Why would the thermostat have failed on a 2014 car?? Actually been removed to mask overheating?? You might, just might find that someone has been 'in there' before, and the renewed thermostat has failed. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Mido, Understand what you say, but you appear to have bought it from a car sales a month ago, presumably with a new MOT. Two points:- things can go wrong in a month ( like a spring breaking and possibly eventually puncturing a tyre) or anything else. Also MOT inspections can be variable - things might (understandably) get missed, and new MOT certificates at a point of sale might, just might, have a tendancy to perhaps be a little less stringent. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mido, Sorry to be direct, but your thoughts on the cause of the noise is just that - an assumption. All the time you are thinking it might be that, you are driving around in a vehicle with suspect suspension, rather than getting it indepenently examined - not good news for others on the road at the same time! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mido, Sorry to hear of your problem. The cause of the noise?? It would be very very difficult for anyone to diagnose the cause without actually examining the car. It could be anything associated with any moving part of the suspension, and even as simple as a broken spring. The car needs a thorough examination as quickly as possible - for your own safety - and I would be asking a local trusted garage to check it out and report back, so that you can inform the people you bought it off and arrange to get it repaired quickly. Perhaps you could let us know the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

To all contributors on here, and the hard working admin folks who keep this forum up and running in an efficient and friendly manner:- May we wish you all a Merry Christmas and a healthy and happy new year, and trust that your motoring problems will be few and far between in the coming year. Best wishes, Gareth & family.

Hello Derek, I think .....'.loath to upset the running of the car' .......probably sums this up. This coupled with the .' loads of complaints.... ' seems to answer your question. I appreciate that bad news travels faster than good news, but, as you rightly point out, bad news there certainly is! If you are happy with the current running of the car, and if you have any concerns (from what you you have read) about the potential adverse affects of subjecting your car to the emissions recall, then simply do not do it. Personally, I most certainly would not. If you (hopefully) decide not to subject it to the recall, then you must keep it well away from any VAG dealer from this point on, or they are likely to carry out this recall, whether you want it it not, and even possibly if they instruct them not to. Taking the car to an independent in the future? Not so sure on whether they can deal with this recall or not, so again worth steering clear during your ownership. Personally, I would not take a chance on a written statement declining the recall being effective if you do take it to a dealer in the future. As far as I am aware, you have the choice to ignore this action, and you are currently in the advantageous position of seeking advice before you decide - most seek advice from a position of discontent following having it done! Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.n

Well, Trade Parts Supplies price = same price as quoted by local Audi dealer! So strangly no 'trade' discount there, and cannot I see the point of that source, particularly when Audi dealer is one mile away and TPS is 15 miles. As an aid to others, does anyone know of dealers who are giving discounts? Discounts available to forum members?? I know for example that Volvo forum members enjoy discounts at some dealers. Kind regards, Gareth.

They seem geared to Facebook, Neil - which I don't bother with. Do they actually supply (mechanical) parts at discounts, or are they biased towards 'accessories' at discount? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bradley, I guess you have/will, check with Audi regarding the costs of buying their pads, and if so, may be wondering if there is a cheaper alternative. I can only advise from experience of having tried aftermarket pads on a humble 1.6 A3, and the braking efficiency was so markedly reduced that we quickly replaced them with genuine VAG ones - expensive experience. If your query relates to trying to improve on the original braking efficiency due to 'enthusiastic' driving then obviously different criteria apply, and you would need to let us know that this is your intention. Kind regards, Garerth,

Hello Evie, For sender, read sensor. Now knowing the full facts regarding the reason for the thermostat change, I would seriously doubt if a genuine VAG part was used, since the car sales garage was paying! Now we need a more experienced input here, but is the thermostat arrangement on this engined model an 'electronic' type? If so it equals expensive (and includes the sensor??). My next step advice here would be to get a price for the part from your Audi main dealer ( have the Reg. No. and VIN to hand) and enquire what type of thermostat type this is - i.e. Includes the full plastic housing and the sensor. You can then check with a local motor factors and get an equivalent price. Perhaps this may then point you in the next direction from which this has come, and where your next move is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Folks, Wondered if anyone can advise. I need a new thermostat for the 2006 A3 1.6, and want to get a genuine VAG replacement. Having lost my source of discounted parts, TPS has come to mind, but I'm not sure if you have to set up an account with them, or if you can just walk-in or order, or better still, order over the phone. Also wondered if anyone knows of any sources of discount on dealer parts for non-trade account customers? Trusting someone may be able to help. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I know some forums have negotiated discounts for genuine parts at some dealerships. This forum?

Hello Evie, The '..........as I understand it it was a genuine Audi part......' to be frank doesn't instil too much confidence in the answer, but of course it is what you have been told, and you must go with it. Or perhaps it might come to proving that to be correct or incorrect. Air locks? After 12 weeks I would expect this would not be a valid reason for your issue. Thermostat? Could be. Sender unit? Could be. If I were mine, I would be taking the car to another trusted local garage and get them to plug this in and obtain live data on the coolant temperature. This should give you a better idea of the actual running temperature at these apparent 'increased peaks' and allow them to better home in on whether this is a sensor or a thermostat fault. Others on here will be more knowledgeable on whether this live data simply reproduces what the (possibly faulty) sender reads, or if it is an actual temperature. No doubt someone will advise. Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Evie, I believe your alternative suggestions are sound. What I would ask is did you have the thermostat changed at an Audi dealership? If not, do you know whether the garage used a genuine Audi part or an aftermarket replacement? If genuine Audi part used then I would suspect the temperature sender. If not, then I would certainly suspect the aftermarket replacement since aftermarket component quality can be highly variable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammed, Sorry I cannot directly help you with your query, but in the absence of any other reply, perhaps some if the follwimg may help to move you in a positive direction. 'I have been told by Audi.......' It would be interesting to know who you asked - and where you asked the question. I have found that answers you get can be one person's opinion and may or may not be accurate. If it were mine, I would wander into the parts section of my local dealer, armed with the VIN and the steps you have bought, and see if you can set up a friendly dialogue with the person there. OK you have bought them secondhand, but an honest approach usually works out. The correct answer will be there and they should be able to tell you (VIN wise) at what point any change was made, and if yours doesn't have any holes - whether steps can be practically fitted or not. I would be tempted to reward a helpful attitude with a box of biscuits at this time of year! Kind regards, Gareth.