Magnet

Hello David, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Looking at the age of your car, and taking note of the symptoms, I would first be wanting to eliminate the battery as the source of your issues - but it wouldn’t surprise me that it is the culprit. Do you know if the car is still running on its original battery? If it were mine, I would be taking it for an ‘essential journey’ of at least 10 miles, then getting the battery efficiency checked - Hartfords were/are doing this - although 2 points:- I’ve known batteries to pass the old ‘drop test’, but still be sub standard in terms of cold cranking limits etc. Also, if the battery is found to be at fault, what replacement do you buy? For me, it has to be Varta/Bosch ( generally the OE supplier’s), and I buy from specialist on- line suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya etc. and I only buy the grade which has a minimum of a 4 year warranty. Look on suppliers EBay sites, where you normally get free delivery. Oder direct from them, and you generally don’t! Why?? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. h.

Hello Emily, Thanks for posting, but personally, I would not be listing my phone number on an open forum. You could ask enquirers to contact you by PM, as an alternative. Please let me know if you would like me to delete your post, and you can re-run it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nicholas from the Homeland, Apologies for boring, but my first port of call would be to return to the thermostat and replace it with a genuine VAG one - if that isn’t what you used as a replacement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, It isn’t impossible that the fitter who worked on your brakes may have disturbed something, but it’s unlikely, and judging by the garage’s reaction, you aren’t going to get very far down that line. Parking sensors can be problematic, and even be affected by dirt etc. It might be possible to tape over each one in turn until you identify the offender - never tried this method, by it may work. If not, then you would probably be down to investing in some diagnostics. Short of all of that, would incur removing the bumper and checking each one in turn. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Thanks for joining the forum. Just wondering if your interest in this stems from having the same issue with a vehicle you own. Perhaps you could let us know. Regarding a response from the original poster - he joined and last visited the forum within under two weeks, almost 4 months ago. I would suggest it would be better to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Phil, I just wonder whether Alan, the OP did resolve this issue and perhaps rejected the car as you suggest. Perhaps he could let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marks, Bulb replacement is usually hampered by restricted/ highly restricted access to removing and refitting the bulb, and it’s not uncommon to see vehicles with grossly misaligned beams due to the inevitable issue. This would always be my first port of call in all such cases. Sorry but I’m not sure about the difficulty with access with your particular car, but as said - even though it’s some time ago - I would be returning to the fitter and seek his advice/ resolution. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Unfortunately this poster joined and posted some 10 months ago, and hasn’t returned to the forum since the following day. I would suggest you PM him, in the hope of getting a response. Perhaps you could let us know if you do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Billy. Location of module? Sorry I really don’t know, and unless you are equipped with the necessary diagnostics and knowledge, then I can only repeat my suggestion that you have your local independent diagnose this for you, and estimate the cost of sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch. It’s possible that the fitter may not have seated the bulb correctly in its holder, rather than having disturbed the whole headlight - but of course we don’t know. If it were mine,I would be returning it to him for correction? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Justin, James has not visited the forum since late November, so it would be better to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Vijay, What battery did they fit? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, As I understand it, the service-due indicator was either set on a Longlife service interval ( usually coming up at around 18k or 18 months), or an annual interval for low mileages covered in a year. If this is still the same, then dealers tend to set the indicator on an annual basis, since the car will return to them more frequently, and to be fair to them, your annual mileage would suggest that would be justified. Maintenance contract? Debatable, but you should be able to obtain an estimated cost from them ( would not suggest getting this from Sales Dept.) for annual servicing. What does the maintenance contract include. Consumables? - such as brake pads etc.? Again, you will need to look in detail at the terms of your PCP - where it may dictate that you must have the car serviced only at an Audi dealer, as opposed to ‘an Audi schedule’ which could allow you to have it serviced at say an independent. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, I don’t want to be pessimistic, but that’s a new one on me! Never heard the likes, but despite having more than a ‘few miles on the clock’, we are not too old to learn. Could you let us know how you get on Ian? Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Sounds like they may be M6 bolts. Easiest and quickest route under our current situation is to look on EBay. You are likely to be spoiled for choice there. Beware, metric threads might have a number of different thread pitches for the same dia. but you can afford to go with the most popular variants and order a couple to compare. To check the treads are the same pitch, simply line up the new one tight against the old one. Some bolts used on vehicles have a flange of shouldered head so a washer isn’t required. This type should also be listed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done. I guess we all need a bit of TLC - me in particular!

Thanks Tony, Sorry, but it always interests me what folks do with this extra decimal point of a second that they have spent considerable chunks of wallet relieving cash on to achieve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vijay, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of battery issues - which would tie in with the anticipated service life of a battery fitted to a car with a stop/ start system. Worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time, but I wouldn’t anticipate any problems there. If it needs a new battery, then it becomes important that you spend wisely on its replacement, rather than any ‘brand x’ make which the garage may obtain from their local motor factors. Battery efficiency is vitally important these days. For me, I only use Varta/ Bosch with a minimum of 4 years guarantee. These can be delivered to the door by on line specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. All of these, and more, sell on EBay, where you will normally get free delivery. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of near side wheel bearing issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed David, That really is a great link. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bradley, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Costs for tyres? Easily Googleable when you are armed with the tyre size, and decided what quality tyres you want - budget thought to premium brands. Brakes? Are we talking discs as well as pads? Do you know the amount of remaining pads at the moment? For prices, simply search EBay, and you will find numerous examples of various quality parts, often including main dealer parts at discount. Only you will know whether you are going to replace these parts yourself or having the job done for you. Shock absorbers? Normally long lived. Do you suspect the car/s you are looking at have issues with these? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Billy, Thanks for being in touch. It’s usual for the driver’s door module to control the remaining doors, and for issues to start with that door, and migrate to affect the other doors. Since you say the issue with the passenger door started (coincidence?) when anew fob battery was fitted, it may be worth going through the fob resetting procedure, which you should find via. Google - and has been listed on here from time to time. Pessimistically, none of these procedures have worked for my spare fob, but you never know your luck. Failing this having any influence, I fear it’s a matter of seeking (diagnostic?) guidance from a trusted local independent, or removing the driver’s door panel to check things out - if you feel confident. On thing puzzles me ‘...the outside handles don’t open the door, I have to lower the window to open the door from the inside’...! How do you lower the windows without being inside the car? I know you can close them via. the locking on the fob, but opening? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, This sounds like an issue with the reservoir low-level sensor. These are often located in inhospitable places, and can suffer from contact issues. Air lock? Really don’t think so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, I believe this issue is an MOT failure, if any of the doors cannot be opened from outside, at the time of testing. It appears Mathew’s can be opened from outside once the door has been opened from inside - and before the automatic lock comes into play. Yours? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, Many thanks for being in touch. Since you don’t have a spare wheel, then a jack will be surplus to requirements. To tyre sealant and compressor is supposed (in caps) to replace the need for a spare wheel. Kind regards, Gareth.