Magnet

Hello Piotr, This reply is probably not going to be of much use, and but it would appear from the photos that the rust is not perforated (through) rust, but more likely to have started as surface rust which has just got worse with time. As I understand it, the warranty applies to perforated rust , so it's possible (likely?) that they will not consider it under guarantee, but good luck, and well worth an assessment. If it turns out you cannot claim, then I assume you will attempt to deal with this yourself, and I'm sure you will know how to do that, and follow the repair with a good wax treatment of the area with something like Waxoyl. I hope your claim goes well. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Alan. I really can't point you in any other direction apart from the one most troublesome point for boot electrics issues, so I guess that's me done. As a matter of interest, I've just Googled "Audi A4 cabriolet boot lock wiring diagram" and came up with a few examples on there - some with the colour codes as well, but I guess you've been there. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Did you check the wiring for breaks/shorts where it does through the flexible harness visible when you open the boot? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Many thanks for the helpful reply, and we can now (unfortunately!) eliminate the dealer from any involvement with this since it hasn't been in their hands for servicing - and therefore cleaning. Taking your point about using a jet washer to rince to car, I wonder if you could let us know your exact procedure and products used for cleaning the car from scratch when you do it. So we take it you have never had it cleaned by anyone else? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, I would tend treat this as you would with an old property which is showing signs of damp. The first port of call must always be the condition of the roof, and this should be attended to first. I'm not sure whether this car is relatively new to you, or whether you have had it some time. If you have had it some time, then you will obviously know when the roof was last treated - if not, you of course won't. I would start with weatherproofing the roof with something like Fabsil or similar, or indeed one if the appropriate Autoglym products. Start along the edge above the door and work your way towards the middle, then from the middle to the other side, to avoid a dry edge by starting in the middle and working to one side. Even if this doesn't solve your leak problem, you will find it to be a good insurance for the future, and then you can look elsewhere. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ken, I'm with Steve on this, and favour the possibility that this is a "broken off" plug for something like a fog or spot light if fitted. It would be worth checking that all the lights are working. Other possibly is that it's a dislodged horn connector. Should be two horns? - and perhaps only one working, I think it's great you are encouraging you son to take a responsible attitude to his motoring, and introducing good thoughts of whether it is safe to drive or not. On that topic I would say it's always difficult to judge things at a distance with forum replies, so if there is any doubt on a car being safe to drive it should always be checked out for assurance at a local garage as soon as possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Thanks for coming back. Are you confident that this car has never been cleaned with a jet wash while in your keeping - never? Honest - never? Can I take it an Audi dealer has serviced the car while in your ownership (the same dealer currently in question)? If yes, did they return the car to you, having cleaned it? See my drift!? I would certainly agree with Steve and I would persue this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Sirty to hear of your troubles. A couple of questions:- when you say you have charged and checked the battery and found it to be OK, does that mean you have charged the battery and had it tested and evaluated its % efficiency? If yes, then obviously you can discount the battery. If you haven't actually had its efficiency checked then you will need to. You say the battery will discharge (if left connected on the car?) in 24 hours. Assuming you have had the battery checked snd it is serviceable then something is still "running" when the car is switched off, and that current draw will be in excess of 2amps, and that would equate to some part of the curcuit demanding over 24 watts of power - high! - to say the least. If this is truely the case ( and personally I would disconnect the battery for 24 hours and confirm it then holds it charge) the you will need to establish which curcuit is at fault. You won't do this with your average multi meter since they generally will only accommodate mA of DC current. If you have a meter which will hands say 5 amps DC then you will need to take the earth lead off and connect the meter between the battery earth terminal and the earth lead and measure the current. You then remove each fuse in turn until the current draw reduces to next to nothing. Obviously the removed fuse points you towards the curcuit which is at fault. Such faults can sometimes be associated with broken wires where the cabling goes into the boot via. the flexible sheathing. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Courtesy lights would need to be isolated if you have the door open.

Hello Stuart, Sorry to hear of your unexpected issue. I'm just wondering if you have owned the car from new. Perhaps you could let us know.At least it sounds like it's been bucket and water cleaning during your ownership, and that's great. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lauren, I like Steve's idea of wandering into you local Audi dealer and asking them to search their database for cars that fit your requirements. This might mean some travelling to see what you want (personally I would not buy from photos) but at least it might give you a choice. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Not sure if I can help you. Last sentence - sorry, it doesn't make sense to me, but it could be me. Could I start by just clarifying that this noise is not there when you rev. the engine at standstill, but only there when the car is moving? If only there when on the move, have you tried (under safe conditions) to deviate off a straight line - to the left and right - when this noise is present to see if the noise gets better or worse? Does the noise vary on cornering? Warped discs? I would not have thought so, since you would be more likely to feel a pulsing of the brake pedal. You seem to have eliminated the tyres, which is always the first port of call, and this may narrow it down to a wheel bearing, or if not that, possibly a drive shaft issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Sorry to hear of your problem. I note you say ......."before I picked it up..." and wonder if you mean you have only recently acquired it. If so, it may be worth having a read of the posts in the Recalls section towards the top of the forum headings, and checking with Audi if this car has indeed been subjected to a recall. This may be useful information for you, should (and we hope not) the light come back on. Kind regards, Gareth.

My money would now be on Trevor's opinion of the near side wheel bearing, suggesting the wrong one has been changed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, Thanks for coming back on this. Causation - medical eh, and there's me believing that the term originated with the legal profession, which I still think it does, but it seems one is never too late to learn something new. Still, back to your issue. Sorry to say it as it appears to me Omar, but we now understand:- This issue originates back (well?) in excess of 3 months ( since it has been with the ombudsman for that time) , and despite taking the case to them, it appears that you are not yet in receipt of a report from the dealer - because up to this time, and on advice- you possibly have not asked for one. Pessimistic possibly, realistic probably, but I 'm not sure how the ombudsman is going to judge on that without such basic evidence to digest. You would obviously know better than I, but would this be a little like taking a case to the BMA without an independent consultant's report? Again, this will come over as being pessimistic, but a friend of mine took a classic car insurer case to the ombudsman, having failed ( over many, many months ) to get satisfaction from the insurer. He eventually won the case after a further 18 months of deliberation! I would ask, where is you car now, how long it has been there, how is it stored, what would have been its current market value (in pre engine failure condition ) and what would you estimate its value will be in say possibly 18 months of sitting around waiting for a decision? Being in your unfortunate position, all of these questions are reasonable to ask and answer - before you add the hassle factor - since yes, life can be difficult, but sometimes it boils down to biting bullets. I still think it would be useful to know what the background is with this car ( as was mentioned in an earlier post). e.g. how long you had owned it before the engine issue, service history, any evidence of earlier issues from service history information or information from previous keepers etc.? I'm sure this is likely to be of interest to the ombudsman as well. Anyway, Omar, I think all I can do is to genuinely wish you good luck in sorting this out with Audi - which I guess is where your claim rests. Kind regards, Gareth.

Interesting Sorry got the numbers confuse in my slightly earlier post. Silly me! Now more sense! So what would a 1994 Audi Carbriolet with 147k miles, no MOT and which has been off the road for the last 7 years be worth then? Remove the royal connection and have a guess. Add the royal connection and we know the anticipated answer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Headlight flasher operation working Dan? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, Sorry to hear of your problem. I think all those who have responded are really asking - have you asked the Audi dealership to give you a report on what has actually happened to your engine and why? The answer must be with them and to simply say it requires a new engine is not enough, and I don't believe a meaningful advice will be had via. the forum until you have that report from them. Whether you understand that report doesn't really matter, but need it you certainly do. Personally, I would not be content with a verbal report, but an e-mailed one would be acceptable - which you could then post on here. It might be interesting to know how long you have owned this car, and whether it has a documented service history, and when it as last serviced. We take it the car has not been subject to recall in the recent past. "Causation" . Any chance you are in the legal/insurance claim business? Not a term often used on here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Now this may be a seriously daft response, but could this noise be from the power steering rather than the drive train? Unlikely I guess - since this is an electrically powered system rather than a hydraulic fluid one - isn't it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, OK, so you have fitted an aftermarket lambda sensor, and although I've seen more generic aftermarket ones where you even have to make up your own connectors, the chances of it being sub standard as new is greater than if you went with a VAG. Code readings are of course, now an essential part of the whole diagnostics of trouble shooting. Being more from the old school of basic logical thought and problem solving means I'm not going to be of much use it you, but I would point out that you have to have a clear mind when interpreting these codes, since they can be either the basic cause, or they can be as a result of the effect of the basic cause. Not very well explained but it's the old cause-and-effect senario. The fact that you have a fault code relating to a specific component does not necessarily mean that component is at fault. The fault could be with another component which influences the component which shows the fault code. I'm not sure that is any better explained , but.....! Once you are satisfied all the wiring and associated connectors are sound, would it be worth returning this sensor to our friends at Euro Car Parts on the basis that it is faulty, and request a replacement, or your money back and getting a VAG one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well Trevor, I am amazed, particularly since this is an INA bearing, and they are supposed to be/were very reputable and I believe supply OE to the motor manufacturers. A couple of questions: Did you buy it as part of a kit ( e.g. I know Gates were using INA tensioners for example)? Have you checked with INA Technical on this, to confirm it is indeed a genuine INA product? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I still maintain that these at least look similar to a conventional mild steel bolt rather than a high tension one. What are the markings on the head Trev? Our freinds very much far east of the channel are great at replicating what things should look like!

Thanks Kev, Now things start to make sense. £160 + VAT for the part, which equals £192 in Welsh money. These kits appear to be on a certain bay auction from £111 and trending at around £150 - these prices inc. VAT and delivery. Obviously your garage make a margin on the parts, and that is to be expected. Your call but:- I still stand by my original advice, and although I would use Gates aftermarket as a second choice, I would not use their water pumps, since I don't know who's pumps they use ( I know which tensioner manufacturer they use). I would check with the VAG contact I gave you and get their discounted price for the cambelt kit, and then the price for the water pump. You then have your full set of information to compare and see if it's worth saving £X over the main dealer parts. Don't forget to check on the auxiliary belt cost as well. Of course, the best option may be to try to source a main dealer who has an offer on cambelt changes as I and others had mentioned. You might well find the best deal may not be thst much dearer than your local garage. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, Welcome. I think Steve's advice of checking with your local Audi dealer regarding any recorded service history is well worth following. I'm sure Steve will be better placed to know about this than me, but I think it may be useful to have the VIN (number) to hand when you contact them, as well as the registration number. Timing belt? Those more knowledgeable on diesel engines than I, will advise you whether this is a chain or belt driven engine. Even if a chain, it may be wise not to ignore it anyway. If a belt, it is indeed very wise to consider changing this if you cannot establish when it was last done, and indeed, even if this may not be too long ago - find out what make if belt was used. As you will know, the belt, tensioners, and water pump make up a "critical parts" application package on belt driven engines, and in my book the first choice would always, alway, be main dealer parts (at discount would be great and is usually possible). The only aftermarket belt I would consider is the one your garage mentioned - Gates. Gates are reputable and manufacture belts for motor manufacturers. Draw the line at these two Kev. If you start delving into cheaper kits then you start to lose the plot. This certainly isn't a cost-is-King job. The quote of £160 from your local garage (not main dealer?) - is that for the supply ( of Gates kit) and fit? If so , this seems rather cheap (too cheap?) to me. Where to beware:- OK , so you decide to go for Gates and see a kit at a great price on the Internet and decide to go for that. Beware, since these may be old stock and perhaps even older than the recommended years- change interval that Audi recommend as a change! Same with the odd Audi kits which turn up from time to time. Water pumps. Critical part of the set up, and believe me, there are some .....p aftermarket pumps available. My advice is to just don't go there, You can get Gates kits with water pumps, but I don't have any experience of who makes the pumps for their kits, so I would be rather hesitant to go with that. For me, it would be a VAG only part, and I know they did actually do reconditioned exchange pumps. It would probably be well worth changing the auxiliary (serpentine) belt at the same time, since if these go, they can wrap themselves around all sorts of moving parts which can lead to the timing belt jumping a tooth. Again, main dealer or Gates only. Last point Kev. Main dealers sometimes have offers on timing belt changes so could be worth looking into that.as well. I mentioned main dealer at discounts, and I know Rainsworth Skoda (Nottingham?) usually offer mail order discounts. No connection, and no doubt there are others. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark. Got a better understanding now, which is starter spins but does not engage, rather than engages but does not turn the engine over to start the car. I think we are on the same lines here of the starter pinion possibly not throwing along the shaft and engaging with the flywheel teeth. I would not have thought that the flywheel teeth are the issue here since you would expect some grinding noises as the pinion tries to engage the worn teeth. Of course, keep in mind a now sub serviceable starter motor where it does not actually spin fast enough to throw the pinion enough. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, One question I would ask is how old is the battery, and have you had it checked for efficiency? I ask since it might reluctantly give just enough umph to (reluctantly) engage the starter motor and indeed turn the engine over, but the residual voltage may be so low - even around 10 volts- that the car may not start. I'm not saying it is this, but I would eliminate this first. OK, battery may be newish, but there does seem to be a higher proportion of early failures on batteries than there used to be. Good luck n getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Many thanks for coming back on this, and although you are yet unsure where they sourced this part, I think it's fair to say it is unlikely to be ex VAG dealer, and more likely to be their local motor factors. Europarts? Any other aftermarket parts supllers? I think it's fair to say some aftermarket parts from any factor can be substandard , but most will usually be cheaper than main dealer full price parts. Critical application parts such as this should not - in my opinion, anyway- be bought on price, but on understood quality. Very often, if you shop around main dealers then you are likely to be able to buy OE parts at discount, (I can recommend one - but I'm sure there are more ) and very often not that much more than what you might pay for the ones the motor factors throw at you from foreign parts. Buy once and wisely is good practice certanly if it's DIY, and even where you ad paying labour charges for fitting them Kind regards, Gareth.