Magnet

Hello Linda, Can we take it you have tried Audi dealers, but not had any success due to the car's age? Even if you have made some enquiries there, it may be worth popping in (again?) ,and asking if they have a system whereby they can check (older on the shelf) stock at all dealers. Obviuosly getting the gearbox oil should not be an issue. Cambelt :- excuse my ignorance, but does this engine run on a belt or does us run on a chain? If a belt, Google 'Gates cambelts' and this should lead you to a UK Technical contact for their belts. In my opinion, these are the best aftermarket belts you will get, and I'm sure they will point you to their part number for the kit you need, then you can approach local motor factors, or on line ones, to check availability. One potential issue:- cambelts are changed on a mileage and age basis, and the age may be as little as 5 years. Question:- how do you know how old the 'new' belt is that you are buying to fit? Already over 5 years old?? Worth asking Gates how you would know - from a batch number? Last point:- it's always worth changing the main (serpentine) drive belt - and its tensioner - at the same time. Ask Gates for the part no. for that as well. Please come back again if you are still stuck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Might be worth a trip down to Jack Smiths in Swansea - not far from the Guildhall. They have been doing trimming and hoods from the time I had hair. Seem to have some good reviews via. the MX5 followers. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Simple and basic things first Danny, Check the gearbox oil level, and even consider changing it, to ensure the grade is correct. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tara, Tommy's got a good point. If that fails, and moving the battery is the only option, then I would be tempted to go to a trusted local garage who will have a simple device which links a slave battery into your system usually via. the cigarette lighter or similar point. The existing battery an then be removed and the surrounding area cleaned. No need to ensure you have the codes etc. if it's done this way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Silly me - electronic handbrake! If noise alters when the steering turns then there is a stronger possibility that the noise originates from the front wheels rather than the back. Can we take it you don't get any noise when moving forward slowly? Sorry about additional questions, but full information is king:- During your two and a half months of ownership, how often has the car been washed, and what method has been used to clean it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hazel, Well, ..." static friction is bigger than the dynamic friction..." I really like that! For friction please leave the 'r' out and subsititue ''fiction' . This car is trying to tell you something, and you are right to be concerned that it isn't as it should be. Apart from the above!? , there could be a number of valid reasons. Could you report back on the effects on the noise of the following:- When reversing and the noise is present, gently (in caps) apply the handbrake to one or two notches. When reversing and the noise is present, turn the steering wheel slightly from side to side. Probably daft and unnecessary to advise only going this when there is plenty of room around you and it's safe to do so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Completely agree with the different slant on it Piotr. The 'free' length of the new spring before fitting will obviously be longer than its compressed (car weight on it) length when fitted - as you are now saying. Then it will largely stay the same, and drop only under increased load. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Mannie, Strange things happen then. Marvellous. Without reading back on all the posts, I seem to recall you would have bought this 8 year old car from a non franchised car sales ( not Audi dealer - due to age?). So some (OK understandanly annonomous) Audi dealer is contributing 40% of the bill, VAG 50%, and the actual supplying car sales - any?%? Most interesting result. Mileage as a matter of interest Manni? Any interesting history? As I say, I think you've done extremely well, and obviously dealt with this in a first class manner. Mrs. May could do with you! Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry to contradict Piotr, but why should these new springs compress within one month? They are designed to take the maximum recommended loads over a period of years of service, and unless they are constantly highly loaded, will remain substantially as they are for a long time. By your logic, if you measure the ride heights of all - say demonstrator Audis on the forecourt , they will ride lower than the ones just driven into the showroom. Um? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anamul, Wouldn't be sure, but sometimes the Park isolator switch can become worn, and although the lever is in Park, the switch may not be properly 'made'. You've probably done this, but try wiggling the selector lever when in Park to see if this does anything for the message. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jay, Can we take it the whole screw is plastic (and has now snapped) rather than the screw being metal (and now snapped) and covered with a plastic press-over cover. If you are talking about a completely plastic screw, then the original would have had a plastic nut on the inside of the tailgate - which will still be there, attached to the remains of the srew thread. Of course pushing this in will result in it disappearing into the tailgate. I guess you will need to remove the inner trim to get at it and remove it, before replacing like for like. An alternative would be to stick the plates on using double sided pads made for the job - ensuring all surfaces are clean. Downside if using the same plates is that the screw holes will still show. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary from the Homeland, I think the answer lies with your Audi main dealer via. the VIN for the car, rather than on here, where it's highly unlikely that anyone would have had a tape measure on their their springs in recent memory. OK, motor factors are generally cheaper, but as you will know from more experience than I, their listings can be wrong, and much time is spent on trying to fit these wrong components. Sometimes it must be cheaper time-wise to just buy from the main dealer at your trade discount. I'm sure Mr. Sinclair's boys will give you the right answer and parts. Good luck with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Craig, but sorry I'm not sure what you mean.

Hello Mannie, That sounds like a result. Are you saying that Audi will meet 90% of the costs of a full engine rebuild on this 8 year old car? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, As I said, if it's PCP then the residual value of registered in 2018 vs 2019 will have been taken into account, and most of what I mentioned will not apply in real terms. However, I think of it were me, I would ask for a recalculation of outgoings once they tell you the car is nearing delivery - whenever that is. Unless you are lucky enough to get some insider information on this then you are at the mercy of Audi as to when they can get this engine within limits. You will also be 'acting as a test bed' for their controls and again -with apologies for being pessimistic - how will you be sure performance/economy will not be compromised? Yoy say the diesel variant is currently available. So apart from the bad press poured on diesels over the last couple of years, what would be your issue with buying one of these on a PCP - where you will know what the residual will be? Of course, if you make regular trips into the city then that option may not be practical, but if not, it might be worth a consideration, and I guess one of these can be road tested at the moment and a delivery date estimated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, Please do not take this as read, since my knowledge of these things is limited, but to me, since it does start, but stops very soon after, it might suggest immobiliser issues rather than in-depth ECU. I'm sure someone on here will point you in the right direction. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, The pessimistic side of me would tell me the later- than is more likely to apply than the earlier-than. The optimistic side would of course say earlier, but if it is earlier (say into December) then you would be registering a car which in just a short number of weeks, will be technically a year older. Yes, I appreciate they will convince you that that doesn't apply any more, and that a 68 plate car will have the same value whether registered in Sept. 2018 or end of Feb. 2019. Only time will convince otherwise - or not. So, the school boy patience may hope for prior to the new year, but the realist may hope for January. Of course, if this car is being purchased on PCP (as a high % are) then this consideration will not be of any consequence, since this will have been factored in to the residual value at the end of the PCP period. Enjoy it when you get it. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think your thinking regards possible water pump issues is a bit/way off the mark - as you suggest via. your second thoughts. Heater matrix blocked on a 4 year old car??? -as I mentioned before, but OK sometime strange/very strange thinks happen! Chances of heater controls being at fault? Still a reasonable possibility. Kind regards, Gareth.

The impression I had was that only the spare remote didn't work. I agree Craig, that if neither or any remote work , then it could be the (driver's door ) control module. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks David. Interesting that it's an original pump which has failed, rather than an aftermarket. It would indeed be helpful to know if this had been a source of issues for others, so owners can keep on eye on theirs for perhaps signs of pink coolant stains before the pump gets to the stage where it allows total coolant leaks. I trust you were able to detect an overheating before all the coolant was lost. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Without any experience of this pump set up, I wonder if 10 year old plastic remains generally serviceable for this application - obviously not in your case.

Hello David, Could you give us a little more detail about the age and make (original - aftermarket?) of this pump, if it is known to you. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm having difficulty with this from the point of view that I cannot get much significant in terms of meaningful sounds from the 'video' ( my system or hearing?), and I cannot really follow how this can be a failed engine mounting without symptoms associated with this, such as engine/clutch judder etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tariq, First things first - and I don't know the answer with your particular engine - but is this a belt or chain driven camshaft assembly? I'm sure someone will come along with clarification on this. Of course, a call to an Audi parts dept. ( make sure you speak with parts section and have reg. and VIN details available) will provide the bullet proof answer, and this would be my first port of call. let us know the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, I fear this is going to bore, but here goes:- Request independent to use Audi parts rather than aftermarket :- OK, one option, but I would ask the question, how will you know - with complete confidence - what parts they have actually used? Very important consideration indeed. Getting down to the nitty gritty:- What are the independent going to charge you to do the job if they use Audi parts? What is the best price you are being quoted by a main dealer to do the job? Any future issues should be addressed to Audi (rather than the independent) if Audi parts are used! This where we are on common dissatisfied ground, but I wouldn't waste my time checking this out with Audi. My advice (for what it is worth) still stands. What price can you put on peace of mind? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, You should not feed your dog soot! And you certainly should not run its little legs off on the motorway. Predictive text! Good isn't it. It always brings a smile - thanks for that. Hope all is well with you. Kind regards, Gareth.