Magnet

Hello Keith, I seems you have been busy doing your homework, and some 'progress' has been made, but personally I have a couple of concerns, but please ignore if my opinions differ from yours. I sense you want to get this job done at the most competitive price - OK using 'quality' components, and although I believe you somewhat respect the importance of the parts used, the bottom line is that you are treating this as a cost-is-King job. It is a critical application not to be dabbled with. Gates vs genuine VAG. As I said, Gates belts are fine if there is a genuine need ( should be caps) to spend less money, and I would ask - what is the saving over using genuine parts? Spread that over 5 years and the true saving emerges. Beer money? Again in my opinion the approach potentially falls down at the scene of the water pump. Yes the Gates kit can come with the water pump, but they also do a comparable kit without the water pump, so there is a choice to be made. Potential issues using kit with pump? Answer lies in who makes the water pump which Gates use? Answer is, we don't know, and I've asked and they (understandably) won't say. My thoughts - probably of Chinese origins. Bottom line in my approach is - would I use Gates kits non water pump kits if cost has to be King ? Yes. Would I use Gates water pump inc. kit? No. I would always use main dealer pump only ( def. in caps). Not sure about their reference to you being the go between if something goes wrong if you follow this logic and use a VAG pump. Sounds a definite off put to me, and I would steer clear, but it's not my car Keith. To box this up, if this were mine I would still do as I initially suggested and find the current best price at an out-of-town Audi dealer, or wait a few months until an offer with them comes along. If you work it out, everything else is based on cost savings only. On a best cost basis, it would be interesting to work out the potential depreciation in the car over the next 5 years. Factoring in the saving on this one off cam belt change by using aftermarket parts, and it should show that this saving is a very small % of this and just not worth the loss of peace of mind if getting this done once and wisely. Summary :- Personal opinion - Gates non-water pump kit if (caps) cost is king? Yes. Gates water pump - No. Main dealer pump? Yes. I- if necessary after such a small mileage. Your garage's comments re VAG pump? Enough for me to draw stumps with them. This is simply a one-person's opinion, and I'm sure others will offer different advice. Also, others will have more knowledge of the frequency of main dealer offers on cam belt changes. Final maths:- Divide cost saving by 5 (years). Worth it for best possible peace of mind?? Good luck with whatever you decide, but consider the importance of the luck element. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, Nice to have a fellow Welshman on here. I' m not sure if the following experience is going to be of any help to you:- We have just had a new (LUK - wouldn't use anything else except main dealer parts) clutch in the 2006 1.6 (solid flywheel) due to clutch judder. Mileage 148k. This clutch had never been smooth from new. I was banned from doing this work - on age grounds!- but as I understand it, the plate had plenty of life left in it, but the thrust bearing was the culprit. Not surprised , since in the end, you could feel a pulsing on the pedal. The new thrust carrier was plastic! (Original one the same I guess). Not an engineering masterpiece by any stretch of the imagination! Well done VAG. The reason for me telling you all of this? Is your judder due to the DMF? Of course, the flywheel will need to be examined and might need changing, and it might be worth looking for a solid replacement, but all possibly questionable. But there again, doing homework frequently pays off. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well Peter, I must say I couldn't do your job for a fortune. You obvious do/did enjoy it, and good for you, but I find it extremely difficult to sell anyone anything that they are not eager to sign up to buy. Sales need special people, and obviously you have developed that skill. A few cars have passed through my hands since I had hair, and I have always admitted to potential buyers that the car will have to sell itself, because I cannot sell it to them! . 'Go away and give it a coat of thinking about it if you are not keen to make up your mind now' . Being well into retirement, I now find myself thinking back to the working environment when everything was considered to be of major importance, and one's input had to be always 100%. In hindsight? Daft! Particularly in this day and age of loyalty neither given or taken, it should be treated as what it is - a way of making a living. When it gets a hassle - look elsewhere, but most importantly attempt to be contented with the bad bits as well as the good bits. Good luck with getting your colleague on your side. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Now I'm thinking - what on earth has this to to do with Audi s. I'm beginning to sound like Aunty Whats it from the agony column!

Hello Ross, Thanks for the additional information. Interesting indeed. Everything has its pros and cons, and I guess the summary would indicate that the ideal would be a hybrid Jaguar/Audi! It's always the same, and we tend to part with something on the basis of even fancying a change, and then we understandably compare the two. My particular interest was that we have the 3ltr V6 Jaguar, and generally I agree with your comments. Perhaps we have the bonus that our XJ has the all aluminium body, and the body weight is said to be no more that that of the contemporary Yaris (certainly much lighter than the S Type), so this is indeed a smooth, no drama speed increasing saloon. Your comments are interesting too in relation to build quality. A bit surprising about switches etc. on the Audi, since we have had an A3 in in the family since new in 2006 and I must say the interior and fittings have remained in great shape - current mileage 148k. Back to the Jaguars (apologies just rembered this is an Audi forum!) Build and fitting quality compared with the current series? Chalk and cheese as I see it, with now flimsy Poundland window switches etc. Still, that's origress for you. Enjoy the Audi Ross, Kind regards, Gareth,

Well Peter, I really don't know what to say, except I sence your frustration. Having been in situations in industry where people's working practices are criticised, I found myself asking 'well who employed him then'? (In other words who interviewed him and offered him the job?) Quite often the answer came back, and it was found to be the same one who offered the criticiser their job! As DylanThomas once once wrote ' We are never wholly good or bad'. All of this does not make me yearn to come out of retirement - fortunately. I still maintain it is more hassle being sour with folks than it is trying to be nice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Postive, some service history apparently, but personally, I would want to see evidence of that. No information on previous keeper = either they don't have a V5, to they don't want to give you the detail off the V5. The former is possible if it's a sale-or-return trade car. Known issues? You could be right regarding injectors, and if so this is going to be a relatively costly fix for them - or for the buyer. If I were in your situation I would ask a direct question. Do you have the V5 available? If answer is 'no but we can get it' then I would suggest you leave your contact details with them, and ask them to be in touch when they have it. You may hear back from them, but.... Mint condition? Very few are in genuinely mint condition. Appealing condition? Yes. Even the scruffiest of cars can be detailed to look appealing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keanu, How long have you owned this car? - useful to know if these symptoms have developed over time during your ownership, or if you have 'acquired' them with the car. Does it smoke at any time (appreciate you comments about smoke test)? Does it smell of diesel at any time? Sorry about all the questions, but detail help. Not meaning to be critical - but constructive- it would be worth posting a brief dcription of the problem in the title, rather than just 'Help needed'. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ross, Welcome to the forum . Intriguing in what respect Ross? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, If I was only allowed to give you one piece of advice, it would be to obtain the name of the previous recorded keeper and get in touch regarding the full story of this car. Not often done, in preference to 'has it got full service history etc?' , but the facts about this car lies with the previous keeper. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, I must say I feel for your colleague and his, and his son's problems. Generally we are not privy to the day to day burdens that friends and colleagues have to endure, and the tendency is to be a little critical of behavioural problems, when we are not walking in their shoes as the saying goes. The 'cannot get on with him' opinion is probably understandable, but perhaps this is an engineered attitude on his part to avoid anyone getting too close to him. I have found that being nice to people who are not nice to you, can sometimes break down barriers and very often the story behind the behaviour comes to light. Support, without intrusion can mean a lot to such people who are in difficulties - if only a tap on the shoulder and some words along the line of ' I don't suppose I can help, and it's difficult for me to understand your problems, but I would like you to know I'm here for you if you think I can help'. More often you can't, but it's the reassurance that you care is the all important bit. I recall reading Bob Monkhouse's autobiography where he relates that he blamed himself for not trying to sort out Dennis Goidwin ( I think it was) problems that led to his suicide - to a point where the shrink put him right and said ' don't think you are that good to have prevented that' . Good point I guess but... To end on a more upbeat note, Monkhouse also relates the night he spent at Dianna Dor's house tied to the bed. Nothing happened except he was left tied to the bed all night. In the morning he was told not to be so presumptuous! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, With apologies for the potential to bore, but I do better understand your plight when we learn the car has only covered 10K miles since the last main dealer belt and pump change. What I would say is to spend some time in shopping around - I would anticipate there is no rush. London area rates? Again it's guess work, but it's fair to believe that London and surrounding areas rates may be higher than most other areas, and perhaps the frequency of promotional deals on cambelt changes may be far less. Is it worth trying dealers well out of your area to see what quotes you get there, since it may be beneficial to spend a little more on fuel to save on the cost? Again, you could ask dealers in your area to keep your contact details on the books incase promotions come along. Good luck with it , Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Eduard, If I'm reading this correctly, then you are 'back on the road', the car is useable, you can unlock the driver's door with the new key and I assume you can unlock the other doors once inside. If so, as I see it, the remote doesn't work, but bearing in mind this is a 17 year old car, does it really matter much? OK a bit inconvenient, but..... As Steve says, the main dealer can probably re-code your remote (cost?). Worth ringing for a quote? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Thanks for coming back with the additional useful information. If it were mine, knowing that a genuine VAG water pump was used last time (number of miles covered since? - very low?) I would be tempted to leave well alone on this and not replace the pump again this time, when the belt and assembly is changed. Subject to it proving serviceable on dismantling. I appreciate that costs matter, but to me, this most critical of applications job should not be influenced by a 'cost is king' approach. VAG dealers often have promotions on cambelt assembly changes, so well worth keeping an eye out. OEM parts? Minefield of a description, and I would simply just not go there unless you really must cut costs, and if that is the case then my only-one exception aftermarket make would be Gates - but I would not use their water pumps if you are going to allow this to be changed. OK independents at cheaper rates:- They may say they will use genuine VAG parts (or the horrible term OEM parts) but in reality, you will not have any guarantee that that will be the case - and how do you check? In summary, my approach would be to investigate the cheapest price you can get at a main dealer, and if necessary, play one off against the other. In the end, the cost spread over 5 years is not alarming and is probably well worth it on a spend once and wisely basis. Any variance from genuine parts may result in a bit of a saving, but I this assembly decides to break loose then you end up with a beyond -economical -repair car. Worth the risk?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, I think that your question will be of interest to many owners who (perhaps in retirement for example) cover relatively small mileages. In the days when I had hair, - and pre-cambelt- such cars were serviced once a year, and were considered desirable secondhand purchases due to their low mileage. Indeed, I have a couple of pals who would shudder at the thought of buying anything other than low mileage cars, and I refer to them 'buying speedometers' (well oddometers really). Such cars can often have had a fairly hard life with frequent stop starts, clutch operation, door opening and closing, seat wear from getting in and out etc. etc. Of course, having said that, we now have the stop/start system fitted to our cars - something I dislike, but. Surprisingly to me, our local bus service has a new bus which has this, and everytime it stops to pick up passengers, the engine cuts out! Progress!? Anyway Keith, none of this helps you at all. Cambelts and c5 year change on time basis? Yes it's a questionable expense, but spread over 5 years then the cost is peanuts compared with the average motorists fuel bill over the same time. Yes, they are likely be capable of longer service life, but this must be balanced against the (terminal?) cost of a belt failure, and as I indicated earlier, the wear rate and strain on these belts is likely to be aggravated by more frequent starts and the resultant stress than would be the case with higher mileage cars. One vitally important aspect to consider if changing on time is the 'quality' of the replacement parts used - particularly the water pump( critical) , since aftermarket ones can fail at relatively low mileages. Not sure what cambelt and pump were fitted last time, and dependent on that information, it may be essential to change again without delay. Just let us know. I have known non-Audi (main dealer) cambelts to be on an auction site at fairly high discounts, and when you ask whether these are current manufacture dated stocks, the enquiry goes quiet - the answer probably being that these belts are possibly in excess of 5 years old before they are fitted! Perhaps there are some pointers there for you Keith. General servicing? At 3K/ annum - say every two years (max). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marco, In the absence of other replies, my thinking on this is that it is was originally set on a longlife schedule and as such, I believe it would not be unusual for this car to run to around 19k miles before servicing. Two things which confuse me is that it's normal for average contract mileage PCP cars to be set on a nearer annual servicing plan - to reap greater rewards from the customer - an explanation might rest with your contract including an add on premium to cover a maintenance plan. Did you sign up for a maintenance plan? Also, I would have expected this car to have been called for servicing when it was two year old - irrespective of longlife schdules. I think Paul has a good point, about getting your query confirmed in writing. If this is not forthcoming then you could do a sort of reverse confirmation by sending them an e-mail based on .......' Further to my conversation with ....... on ..,,,,,,,, I understand and accept that car (reg. No. ) is not due for servicing at or shortly after this date...' Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Beets, Just nip back to the dealer and get them to show you how they work? - or agree they don't work, and rectify the problem. Usually, there isn't any switch, and they automatically come on when the boot is opened. Sometimes, but very rarely, the main lights have to be on before they work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ally, Perhaps someone will be able to identify this and give you a number or letter, but have you tried going into your local dealer and asking them to identify the correct one for you? Kind regards, Gareth.

I really wouldn't buy one and use it on a complex electrically controlled car if you are asking what to check and how. To repeat, the only sound advice I can give is to now put that money towards an hour of an auto electrician's time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Not easy to work on electric windows or anything electrical without a meter and a knowledge and experience of how to use. I think that if this was mine, I would be investing in a hour of a trusted auto electrician's time to at least get an experienced diagnosis on this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Before moving into the mechanics of this, have you measured the actual voltage at the motors to check that they are receiving at least the 12v. as they should be? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, It is always worth checking the fuses to make sure they haven't blown, and indeed to give them a 'wiggle' in the holder to minimise the risk of poor contact. With regard to 'other fuses missing' , I guess you have consulted the handbook to ensure the 'missing' fuses are for equipment fitted to your car. The fuse board is usually set up to cater for a full range of equipment which can be fitted, but often isn't, so there could appear to be missing fuses when they were never fitted originally. Reverse light switch location? :- not sure on your engined car. Often fitted so it gets actioned by the external selector lever position for reverse gear, or sometimes fitted into the gearbox casing to be actioned from inside when reverse is selected. Might be one of those jobs where an hour out with an auto electrician may be worthwhile. The existing switch really needs to be checked for 'switching make and break' before buying another one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, I would be suspecting the reverse light switch is at fault, and is remaining 'closed circuit' when not activated by the reverse gear selection. That is why they have taken the fuse out- so they don't work at all! If it proves not to be that then it could be a wiring problem, but check this first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, Sorry to bother you, but could you broaden my knowledge on these things (needs updating) by letting me know how the factory (VAG?) can independantlly 'block' the performance of an individual 12 year old car? Hope you don't mind. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

I calculate that at £3000 to £4000 per hour! - plus the cost of a trip from lovely Powys to Teesside.

Hello Nick, Sorry to hear you are having an issue. As you say, this is a classic wheel balance characteristic at this speed, but to now assume that it isn't because the wheel refurbishers would have rebalanced them, is a simple assumption, and may or may it be correct. This problem could also be associated with a defective tyre, and if it is, then this must be seen to with some urgency. If it were my car, I would get this down to your local trusted tyre depot. as soon as possible and ask them to thoroughly check all tyres ( with the wheels off) and then check the balance. Only when you have done this can you assume the problem isn't associated with tyres or balancing. Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.