Magnet

Hello Nick, Sorry to hear you are having an issue. As you say, this is a classic wheel balance characteristic at this speed, but to now assume that it isn't because the wheel refurbishers would have rebalanced them, is a simple assumption, and may or may it be correct. This problem could also be associated with a defective tyre, and if it is, then this must be seen to with some urgency. If it were my car, I would get this down to your local trusted tyre depot. as soon as possible and ask them to thoroughly check all tyres ( with the wheels off) and then check the balance. Only when you have done this can you assume the problem isn't associated with tyres or balancing. Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not quite sure what your opening comment is meant to imply Tony, in terms of my earlier ( postive and supportive I think) responses to Mario. Contacting the DVLA is fine and positive, but they will not amend critical V5 data without supporting evidence that the currently held data is incorrect. Personally, I think that is only fair and reasonable, and I'm sure Mario will now be able to collect the data he requires to resolve this. Kind regards, Gareth.

What plastic part Paul?

Hello Tom, Thanks for coming back with the extra information. If the car was first registered? Feb. 2015 then the warranty would have expired in Feb. of this year - so too late now, so onward and upward! Blocked core? I would really simply forget that as a possibility, since the car is less than 5 years old. It is likely to still have its original OAT coolant which lasts at least for that time, and in reality nearer twice as long without major issue. As you point out, the coolant will be changed at the cambelt and water pump change ( suggest main dealer or Gates cambelt kit, and certainly main dealer only for the water pump - without question - in caps!) Back to heater:- I share your opinion that the problem here relates to a heater control valve, and if this were mine, I would wander into my local Audi dealer and ask about 'this valve'. They would then clarify what is what in relation to what it is, and if they tend to give problems. Hopefully, someone much more up on this will come along on here and give you better advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, I assume you have individual heater controls to separately regulate the temperature on driver and passenger sides, and by what you say about the different temperatures of the heater hoses, it is probable that both sides lack heat. You could try squeezing the hoses with the engine up to temperature and running, and controls set to max. heat - obviously respecting all safety requirements. You might find you will feel air locks and the hoses will then reach the same temperature. I have my doubts this will work however, but worth a try. Blocked core? I seriously doubt this on a car of this age. Personally I would not try to back flush it? My stab at this is that it is some form of electrical control valve issue, but a guess it is. By what you say about the fault existing since last year, it would seem that the car was marginally in/ just out of warranty, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Since both front windows are similarly affected, are there any logical answers to these questions:- Is it likely that both regulators or both motors are at fault. If this is indeed unlikely, is there any - perhaps electrical - component which is common to both window? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Has the actual voltage at the motors been checked?

Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum. I can well understand the difficulty in describing this part - to be able to have any chance of finding a replacement. Not meant as being critical, but when I first read your reference to 'strut' , my mind was tuned in to something associated with the suspension. Cross tie bar, chassis cross link bar, etc. may be alternatives, but a better description than yours?? Incase it helps, the corresponding upper pressed panel ( from wing to wing) is often called a closing panel, so perhaps lower closing link bar. No doubt you have already been there, but have you tried visiting (not phoning) as many Audi dealers as possible. I appreciate that the part will be no longer available but I would be surprised if all the schematics associated with the car have been destroyed. If you fail there, it might be worth checking with Audi Technical (in writing). These approaches should at least provide a description of the part - hopefully a part number. If you can eventually find a part number, then it is possible that some sort of dealer network part-still-on-stock enquiry facility exists where dealer stocks are checked nationally. Another option:- Are there any 'modern classics' Audi specialist about? - worth a Google. If so, these would be my first port of call. Everything fails option:- Get a replacement made. OK expensive and where? Armed with the old unit off and precise dimensions on required length, I would approach your local Technical College -try to wander into the entrance to the workshops with a helpless look, rather than going to reception. They are often looking for projects for the students. Hope some of the above may help. Keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Everything fails option:- I might, and it would have to be a might, know someone in my locality who could be prepared to make one for you, but I would prefer to keep this as a tried- everything-else option, rather then enquiring at this stage.

Hello Paul, Possibly will be considered a cheap bodge, but it could be worth spraying some WD40 or similar ( I now used GT85) down the felt window runners - front and back. Partly lower the window before squirting. It might well cure it or it might ease the problem. These window mechanisms are designed to stop closing if there is a restriction, and the restriction may be aggravated by tight runners. If it doesn't work then its doors cards off and see what is going on and if lubrication there might help. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Mario, Very pleased this has been sorted. I've been 'off air' for a few days, but reading through the posts, my view was that the answer rested with making a simple contact with Audi. Glad it worked out for you. Probably being rather critical, but I'm not sure whether assumptions ( once interpreted as 'making an !Removed! of you and me') - such as cut and shut etc. is very useful, since assumptions are all they are, and help and progress can only be made by studying known fact, or making suggestions of how to obtain fact. Still.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, Regretably, many threads end up remaining open ended, and the potential for helping others with similar problems are lost. I'm not saying the following investigation is going solve your issue, but....... Have a look at,and a twiddle with, the harness as it passes from the bodywork through to the boot/hatch lid. This is a fairly common source of issues since it is continually flexed, and the wires can eventually snap and cause intermittent curcuit failure. Worth stripping back the harness covering if it proves suspect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Appreciate this isn't MOT rules! - but forum rules :- I like your posts which remind members to read the rules - all nice, tidy and civilised! I know the forum edits unacceptable words- by blanking out these words with - ***? I notice it doesn't do the same when posters use abbreviated (just letters) instead of the actual unacceptable forum words though! Any reason why not, since it is exactly the same, and clearly understood word. Keep up the good work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Personally, I would forget glow plugs since these control the cold starting in cold weather. Your cold starting appears to be fine. Does the car smell of diesel, or push out a bit of smoke during it's brief attempts to start quickly when hot? If it were mine, I would be finding a good local diesel specialist (ask your local taxi drivers for recommendations) and entrusting diagnosis to them. Injectors?? - but it could be due to a variety of causes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, I too am sorry to hear of this problem, and if there is going to be any benefit from this very unfortunate experience, it's going to be a warning to other owners to think twice about using such commercial car wash facilities. Yes, I know the current thinking that 'I'm not going to waste my time washing the car when I can get it done for me for £5/10'. So owners sit there wasting their time on their mobile phones while waiting to have the car cleaned! I have commented on here so many times about the adverse affects of cleaning chemicals (and lances) used by these establishments, that I am now even boring myself! They will take the skin off your hands, and can all these operators calculate a dilution rate of say 10/1?? In terms of your issue and its rectification? As I see it, these trims are aluminium and are finished by polishing them, and then the shine is sealed in by lacquering - I think. I believe you have ended up by the lacquer coating being degraded by the acid, leaving the actual aluminium surface subject to further localised attack by the chemical. Rectification would now be to repolish (to a level below the pits) and then repeat the (two part) lacquer coating. Practical without removal??? Might be worth taking advice from a local specialist vehicle preparation business incase they can offer some beneficial process. The question that now remains is :- if this chemical has resulted in this damage to the trims, what (as yet unseen) damage has it done to the surrounding paintwork lacquer coating? Repeating myself, I think your very unfortunate experience might make others think twice about getting others to wash their cars. Good luck with getting this sired out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Might be worth adding around the smaller seconhand car sales sites, since these sites often know good car preparation set ups.

Hello Adam, If I was in your situation, I too would follow Steve's advice, but also talk with a local trusted auto electrician, since it's likely that any such work taken on by garages close to you will be subcontracted to such an auto electrician. I must confess that I am short on knowledge of the total extent of damage caused by reverse polarity on 'modern' vehicles, but expect the alternator to now be faulty as well, since it's usual that the diodes in there have been adversely affected by connecting the leads the wrong way around. I must say, I am surprised by the leads ' almost catching fire' unless the two cars were in physical 'earth' contact. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello D..? When this car starts to push out smoke, does it smell of diesel? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dennis, Apologies - it's 'oh not him again'! . Taking another look at your facts and logic, and I see that the car is fitted with an automatic lock down or whatever it is called. What now confuses me is that in one of your early threads you mention the 1.7 amp draw when the car has been left unlocked in the garage. I must take it you left the keys in it, otherwise it would have automatically locked! Intersting point, but I wouldn't have thought it would have consumed that amount of current if left with the keys in it and it didn't lock, but.. Can we take it you have the handbook to identify all the blade fuses and their curcuits? Large amps fuses? I too think alternator etc., but personally I don't think I would remove these - concentrate on all locations for blade fuses first. If that fails? I may be talking through the part which should be used for sitting, but alternators and diodes? Is it possible that a diode can fail 'closed' curcuit as opposed to open curcuit, and if so, would this result in a drain back through the alternator? Just another thought! Kind regards, Gareth.

'........am I doing something wrong?' Sorry, but in my opinion yes - putting one bottle of K Seal in this cooling system. Putting two!?? Using/ losing coolant? The car is trying to tell you something and you need to find out the cause of coolant loss/use. Basic things first:- change/ swop the header tank screw top - but I would not use an EBay one. No difference? Have the coolant system pressure tested. This should not cost you as much as two bottles of K Seal. What you do about having two bottles of this stuff in the coolant?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Probably a daft question on a car of this age, but does the new battery have to be coded to the car? More recent models - Yes?

Hello Matty, Any history of a recent coolant change, or work being carried out which necessitates the coolant system being disturbed? Coolant temperature gauge reading normal after a few miles and remains at this reading? You could try getting the car hot and selecting the maximimum setting on heating control, and checking if both heater hoses are the same temperature after a couple of minutes - obviously observing all safety requirements. Not sure how easy they are to get at on yours - may require some engine cowl removal. If both pipes are not hot then try squeezing them, and you might feel some air rush movements. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daniella, I think these should look nice, if fancy wheels is your thing. I'm afraid I'm probably going to continue the not too positive responses by mentioning that it's not uncommon for folks to spend comparatively large chunks of their hard-earned on non standard wheels and then minimise the extra cost by buying potentially low grip budget tyres - or mid range at best! I'm sure though that you will act sensibly in this respect. Again, these are usually fitted with low profile tyres which result in a ride akin to that of a fast moving horse and cart - but the wheels will look nice for others to look at. Not sure of the insurance requirements where you are, but on the mainland it is wise/essential to notify your insurers where non standard wheels have been fitted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Austins in the family? You are from good stock then Steve! No doubt about that. The first car I renovated was a 1934 (last of the model) chrome-rad Austin 10. It is now in the Country Life museum (or whatever they call it now) in Exmouth, where it has been since 1985. I feel sorry for it since it hasn't turned a wheel since! Spent yesterday morning fine tuning a 1936 Austin 10. That paricular model is called a Sherborne - the shortest lived production run by Austin, and was only made from Jan to Sept. of 1936. Took it for a little 8 mile jaunt and stopped to readjust the timing just off the main road and found ourselves turning around in a local Viola transport yard. Guy on mobile came over - as they normally do - to have a chat - but no, you cannot stop here! Just two minutes? Sorry no! You've got to feel sorry for for them! But there again, he probably did not want two young delinquents about!! Still, the dear little thing is now running enthusiastically. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Just an afterthought:- Might be worth advertising it on Piston Heads free advert website. They seem to cater for the rather non run of the mill cars. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jack, A second opinion is usually with while, and I would follow Steve's suggestion. I would not mention anything to Audi about the assement you have already had done by the independent. Some pointers which may help you if and when some of these items may need attention:- Shock absorbers - generally long lived and I would be questioning (just in my mind) the significance of a bit of misting. If a shock absorber does need changing, then the recommendation is that they are changed in pairs, and you know what that does for your bill! See what the Audi check comes up with, but if the misting was listed as an advisory (justified or otherwise - and there is a lot of bum covering with thes things now) on the last MOT then don't be surprised if Audi comment as well, since they may well tap into the MOT history of the car. Brake pads and discs - about winter time? Even if these are getting towards end of life, it is surprising how many miles can be covered before they actually get to a point where they really need changing - without taking any risk. I guess the quote you have is for using Audi parts, and that is ideal, but.... If and when they do need changing, I think I would be fostering relationships with a trusted, recommended local garage, since such things are easily dealt with by any skilled mechanic, usually at much cheaper labour rates. Potential problem of using that route?? - they might want to use the 'Brand X' parts which their usual motor factors supply them. I would beware of that since some/a lot are nowhere near as good as Audi parts. I would not be happy with that. Possibility- you supply the parts, and they fit them for you. You can try a company called TPS (usually have localish depots) who are likely to supply such VAG parts at a bit of a discount, or if you are looking at non Audi aftermarket manufacturers, ( second best option only) there are many to avoid! I have however used EBC parts to good avail, and I believe this forum now has a discount on these - see a recent alert by Trevor. Good luck with this Jack, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, If this is genuine 1948 registered Austin 16, what you have there - or what you did have there!! - was one of a batch of an extra 200 manufactured for the taxi trade. This batch was made after the model was discontinued and had been replaced by the then new Austin Hampshire. The reason for manufacturing them? The taxi trade didn't really welcome the new model and preferred the old Austin 16! The 48s are rare, but I drove one over a 180 mile round trip last Saturday. Goes really well. This particular one was originally destined to be used as a taxi (you could only buy new cars then for 'commercial' use in the UK) but was hived off from the 4 ordered and used privately. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, The car sounds to be a very good buy, and I can understand your views that it must be worth more (a lot more?) than the average 2003 A4 cabriolet. In my experience, such cars are normally sold to people you know, or people associated with who you know. In other words, it is considered to be a very good value for money car, and someone is prepared to pay a premium for it because it's low mileage and been well cared for. I once asked a classic car auctioneer to 'value' an 8K Morris 1000 I was selling, and the reply was ' Wharever someone will write you out a check for today, and that will be different to what another person will pay tomorrow!' Not an helpful answer, but a realistic one. You are the one who knows what you consider it's worth, and this will (as you say) will be based on what is being asked for other average examples. I would be convinced you already have a figure in mind below which you would not sell this car, and if it were mine, I would be tempted to list it online under 'Classic Cars' (which it isn't, but...) and in similar magazines. If you were going to buy a new car, then no doubt you have already had an unacceptable part exchange price, and this, together with the currently advertised prices of same-year-model cars will allow you to decide what you will accept. Personally, I would not advertised under 'Offers' since buyers will always want to know what you are expecting for it, so just as well ask it, in my book. Not much of an answer I know, but I'm sure you have a figure in mind, and you might get it from the right buyer. Good luck in finding the right home. Kind regards, Gareth.