Magnet

Fair point Jason, but the main point of my response was to use Halfords (and their pricing) to assess whether it is possible to fit these bulbs - without- removing the bumper - or not. Whether you then actually use them to fit the bulbs (and possibly remove the bumper) would be a decision left to the owner - as you point out your decision in this case. No doubt, for many owners, cost comparisions between say main dealers and Halfords might also influence that decision. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Our A3 is ten years older than yours and was fitted with Michelin from new. We continued using their 'updated' tyres for well over 100k, but I've just changed to Continental Contact 5 s, since I felt Michelin were getting noisier. Early days yet to assess the Continentals, but..... Of course, you can consider alternative makes, but I tend to do/recommend what you are suggesting as your possible option, and stick with the originally fitted brands. Do you ever get the same mileage on replacements of the same brand?? If this decision was mine, I would stick with the 5s (which seem to be available at good value for money) rather than pander to the manufacturer's updates. I guess it depends on whether your normal driving style matches the need for the 'improvements' offered by the 6s. Backs wearing slower. My scheme has been to replace the fronts and put the new on the fronts. When the rears need replacing, put the new pair on the front, and your (currently to be replaced) front ones on the back. Sticking with brands fitted from new? I notice Mercedes Benz are now using Hankook on some of their cars, which I thought were a mid range tyre. Times have changed? Good luck with whatever you choose. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think it is essential to consider basic factual information with such things as this. Every vehicle will have a maximin towing capacity, and I believe (but please take professional advice) that this is based on the (gross?) weight of the towing vehicle. It is possible - and understandable - that vehicles fitted with panoramic roofs may have a lower towing weight than those fitted with conventional steel roofs since despite the likely bonded nature of the glass roof, the total structure may not be as rigid as the conventional roofed vehicles. Having said that, I cannot understand that a panoramic roofed vehicle simply cannot tow anything! Of course, I am not giving you an answer, and without undermining advice given on here, I don't feel comfortable that this is the right place to end up with the definitive answer. If it were me, I would be making enquiries at:- Main dealer, or Audi Customer Services - Technical, and/or Established towing equipment fitters/suppliers. In both cases - make sure you have the advice in writing. - should be in capitals! As no doubt you will understand, this reply only serves to suggest a reliable source of correct information. Trusting you will be able to get this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I take it you are indeed talking remotes here rather than simply keys. Probably being pessimistic, but I have tried most (all?) of the procedures found via. numerous online enquiries, and failed to recode the second key fob which came with the car when new, but spent most of its life in the draw. The second key with me will do everything it is supposed to - including starting the car- but it will not remotely lock or unlock the doors. In your case it could be worth you googling a number of reset suggestions in the hope one if them may work, but if you fail, the option would be to visit a main dealer or independent to get the recording carried out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you buy the car from a car sales company? If so, they might rectify this for you, but possibly not due to the car's age and the significance of the issue.

Hello Andrew, Thanks for the additional photo which tends to reinforce my opinion that this could well be perforating rust rather than surface rust. A close visual inspection of the area might show an odd bubble of lifting paint. If it does, then that would convince me that I'm on the right track. IF this is the case then I would most certainly believe the bodyshop really 'doesn't want to know' since it is unlikely they will be able to eradicate the rust and guarantee it will remain rust free for say 3/5 years. Continued apologies to those who have suffered this advice before, but if it were mine, I would be having a word with the chaps at a small local car sales site and asking for a recommendation for someone to do this for you. These boys often have poor press, but they make a living by trying to operate with local value-for-money repairers, so can be a good source of where to go. Having said that Andrew, I think you must be realistic in your expectations and accept that however good the repairer is, this rust is likely to return. Also consider that matches might not be as good as you would like, but hopefully you should get a value for money job done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I too would have thought £780 (inc. VAT) is expensive, but I am confused by the '...removal of the quarter panel'. Also you don't tell us whether the quote is directly from the body shop or whether it might for example be via. an Audi dealer. It is difficult to confirm from your photo, if the rust is from a a non-treated scrape, but I suspect it isn't, and in fact is 'genuine' rust extending in from the wheel arch edge. If so, body shops don't like dealing with this since the rust will return and the customer will be unhappy. If this is the case, and a close up photo would help - it may be that they have given you a 'go away estimate' since they don't want to do it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, As Cliff said then. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rebecca, You are very welcome. Bought in July from a mechanic. I'm guessing here, but came with a new MOT? (they say never buy a car from a mechanic, since they know the significance of issues and when to ignore them!). If it has an MOT beyond your 'only meant to be with me for a few months' then personally, I would consider spending the minimum on it to keep it going- the minimum being spent on the safety critical issues. e.g. rear brake requirements etc. I woukd advise caution with choosing a local garage and try to find one by a series of recommendations. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. If MOT expires within your 'lasting few months' then alternative advise might apply.

Hello Rebecca, Adding all the issues together would perhaps suggest the car is not worth spending on, but looked at as individual problems, it should be possible to prioritise them, and decide which are essential to do and which aren't. After all, it's a 15 year old vehicle. What we don't know is:- How long you have owned the car, and what level of issues you have had with it in that time. How the car drives generally, apart from the listed issues. What you paid for it and how much you have spent on it. What your budget would be if you were to sell it. Assume worse possible case of yours only being worth scrap value ( which it isn't). If you have a local trusted garage, or better still access to an enthusiastic 'spanner man' who might help you out. Personally, I would be concerned if your replacement car budget is low, you could be buying something which simply has another set of different issues - the devil you know etc. As a starter for you - the rear wheel squeak/ brake warning light, could be brake pads needing changing, but you really need at spend an hour's labour to get this assessed and costed, before deciding what to do. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Benjamin, I think you are right in not ignoring odd noises. The car is trying to tell you something, and yes it's important to find out what it is. So you have established that the noise is coming from the N/S rear - that is a good step forward. Now cause? Steve points you in the direction of some possibilities, and if I read it correctly you are a 'get someone to look at it' owner rather than a 'get the spanners out' one, and that is fine. A good trusted local garage should be able to establish the cause for you. The old ideal way of spinning this wheel to replicate the noise was the dynamic on-car wheel balancer, but unfortunately this is now a defunct way of doing it. If I was looking at it and cannot replicate the noise by manually spinning the wheel, I would be removing the brake pads and thoroughly inspecting to see if there is anything there to account for it. Another possibility could be a rusted back plate (and they do rust!) which has started to break up and 'expands' to touch the disc. I notice your car is only 4 years old, so it's probably OK, but... Noise gets worse when the car has warned up? This is a bit confusing, but I'm sure the answer will be a simple one. Perhaps you could let usxknow how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, This sounds to be a classic case of fuel vaporisation, with the current higher volatility fuels, but the problem is, such issues do not affect 'modern' cars. I have been around classic cars for more years than I care to remember, and this would certainly be considered as the culprit, but having said that, I would expect those cars to start again once the engine had cooled down, rather than with yours which suggests many hours. The answer is Martin, that I really don't have an answer!., but I would be first trying the 'super' unleaded - worth a try. If the problem still persists, and chances are it might, I would talk with an independent and enquire about the possibilities of air locks in the fuel supply etc. etc. It might also be worth checking the fuel pump fuse - but not just that it hasn't blown - which it won't have, but that there isn't any contact resistance. Partly pull out, squirt some contact cleaner, wiggle, and press firmly home again. On the basics of replacing cheapest bits first, might be worth changing the fuel pump relay, and fuel filter, but do one thing and test , so you will know what, if anything, eases the problem . Not sure if any of this will help, but let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alexandru, It would seem you have half a tank full of contaminated fuel - probably contaminated with water, which is heavier than the fuel so will stay at the bottom of the tank. The confusing part is that the pump should be continually drawing fuel from the lowest point - the bottom of the tank - so should be drawing up the contaminated fuel at all times, and at best, the car should perform badly at all times. Logic would suggest your best option is to have the tank completely drained. How this is done now, is a good question, since I understand there are anti syphon 'systems' and no drain plug, but..... I too feel your best option would be to talk with a good independent , but insist the tank is drained ( then you can add some fresh fuel) before any other work is carried out. Perhaos you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I would not have thought that there was going to be much unconventional on your set up, but I cannot be more specific since I haven't worked on your variant of the A3. So there now appears to be a significant difference in the parts only vs supply and fit, so positive thinking - think what savings you are going to make by DIY! Are you sure that TPS will be supplying you with genuine VAG parts? If not, I see Trevor is drawing our attention to discounts on EBC. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, So you are using independents to service your year old, obviously within warranty car. Theoretically fine as I understand it, provided the car is serviced according to the schedule and I guess VAG parts and approved lubricants are used. No doubt the burden of proof would rest with you if any warranty claim was made. Worth the hassle over the cost benefits?? Back to two different oils being used in the same under-warranty car remains at least strange to me ( and perhaps strange should be in capitals ) . Explainable under a warranty claim?? Essential to get an explanation for potential warrant protection?? Definitely in my book. Cost of comparable service at Audi? Probably would have been well worth well worth having both figures to assess whether the difference is worthwhile. Just a though - does your independent have access to the VAG system to be able to record this service on their database? No service book now? Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks very good - as did the other two with numerous photos. It might just be me, and apologies if no one else thinks the same, but could I be excused for thinking this is now beginning to feel like a free advert?

Hello Phil, Now you are testing the logic! Two different oils in one engine at one time?? 20/50 at £5 a gallon. Yes, 'posh' oil at the time, but no doubt the weekly wage as about £25 at the time, and engines lasted about 70k miles. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, OK, normal driving so you just want to replicate the original braking, and my first recommendation would be to use Audi parts. If the dealer is quoting for supply and fit, and TPS want £100 less for the parts then we can assume that TPS are charging you near retail for the parts - based on the dealer charging about an hour to do the work. Do you intend to do the work yourselves? Are we talking just fronts (or backs) only? If you are doing this work yourself then it's worth considering the £100 saving even if you have to buy at retail. Part no. Can't really see the importance of this. If you are buying the parts at Audi then they will simply sell you the correct parts. If cost does become king, then all you need to do is to carry out an EBay search for pads for your model and year, and you will come up with numerous aftermarket makes - some of which I wouldn't touch! If you feel you want to buy at 'best price' then look for Brembo or EBC ( of which there are different grades). There will be others cheaper, but.... This might - just might give you as good braking as original Audi pads - but you will be buying on price. Unfortunately, my source of Audi parts at discount has dried up, but someone else may be able to help you with this, since this would be your best route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Esat, The theory about changing the tyre profile should be well documented on the websites of some of the major players in the Internet tyre suppliers. As I recall, perhaps (but please check and reassure yourself) changing the profile by one 'size' from say 40 to 45 should not be too drastic, but of course you are increasing the total diameter and technically this will alter the gearing. I think the theory would again point you to changing the wheels to 17 inch if you want to increase the profile to say 50. You will need to work it out yourself, but 40 refers to the tyre wall height being 40% of the tyre width, so if you wanted to change to 45 then the tyre wall height would increase by around 6mm by rough calculation. Work out 40% of your 245mm, then 45% of 245 and this will give you the difference. Affects on handling, gearing etc. .?? I would look up what wheel diameters that were available for your model and start there. I can well understand your desire to move away from these unrealistically low profile since they were conceived to satisfy the motorists who want to constantly go around corners flat out - as we all do all of the time - don't we! The requirements of the motorists who want to drive reasonably and enjoy a smooth ride are ignored. Now Dunlop developed the pneumatic tyre to give comfort over the previous solid tyre..... But these low profile tyres are supposed to represent progress! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, Of course, this could be due to numerous issues, and dare I admit it - might need plugging in to assess fault codes. If it were mine:- I'd be talking with some of my friendly taxi boys and seeking their advice on a trusted local diesel specialist. (I would not be taking it to Audi or an independent). They should be able to run the necessary tests for you, and this may include a leak-back test on the injectors. As you have found with replacing the crankshaft sensor ( replaced with Audi part?) you could otherwise end up changing components without any improvement, and indeed potentially introducing additional problems, since replaced parts may not be as reliable as the originals. As a matter of interest, any smoke or diesel fumes when it does eventually start when hot? Kind regards, Gareth.

WHello Vince, Possibility (1) is that they have changed the wrong s/absorber, since they too could not tell which end it was coming from. Possibilty (2) is that neither of them were/are the cause. To help finding the cause:- enquire with your friendly local MOT station, who should have the one-man-inspection 'shooter' arrangement on their inspection ramp. This is the device which (quite violently ) rocks the car from side to side to check for suspension etc. wear. This piece of kit may replicate the noise. It wouldn't surprise me with this drop of rain we are having this weekend that the creaking noise may go away, and may be no more than a 'dry' bush - but then again it might not be, so inspection is necessary. Another cover-all angles if nothing can be found is to spray all the suspension bushes with automatic transmission oil. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Good luck with finding a buyer for the car. Perhaps this is an over reaction, and not for me to say, but personally, I would think twice about leaving the registration number visible on the photos, and listing my e-mail address on an open forum. Interested parties should be able to PM you to correspond about it. Kind regards, Gareth.

I wish you all the good luck I hope you won't need Maddie. Just keep at it, and if the rejection of the car hangs on an inspection by an Audi dealer, then request a copy of the report. I don't mean to tell you what to do, but if I was in your situation I would keep a written record of all dates, and conversations as things proceed. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I'm sure others too would be very grateful for updates.

Hello Emmanuel, Sorry to hear of your issues. Irrespective of the other issues, if this car is consuming oil at the late of 1ltr/200 miles (c120 miles/pint?) then the car is practically unsuitable for reasonable use, and should be formally rejected, and returned to the selling dealer for a full refund. Your local Citizens Advice will advise you how to go about this, but you certainly need to act without delay, and do it in writing not only on the telephone. Using a thicker oil? Just don't go there - the engine was designed to use the grade stated. Good luck in getting your money back. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I assume this is a recent purchase.

Hello Steve, Unless you intend to drive this car in a way its wasn't designed for - track days etc. - I don't think you will go wrong with fitting genuine VAG parts which can often be bought at discount. We did try an 'ordinary aftermarket' brand in our A3 and literally took them out after a month, and fitted Audi ones - such was the difference. If you are intent on moving away from OEM parts for some reason ( but certainly don't make it, cost) then quality aftermarket brands such as Brembo or EBC might be a consideration. I would certainly avoid once well respected brand names, since these are largely bought-out brand names to add some kudos to basically 'cheap' products. I would just not go there. Kind regards, Gareth

Without meaning to be patronising, we are lucky to have shared in Mike H's unfortunate experience, and very importantly, benefiting from his very clear advice which he kindly passes on as an aid to others. Sad but true, forums don't normally work like that, and this is not meant as a criticism of this particular forum, but forums in general. Having said all that, it seems Mike H has not achieved the end goal without actively progressing the issue, and again, this is where things differ from the norm and it appears it's not uncommon for posters to give up on a 'can't be bothered' basis. Although it's not for this forum to dictate courses of action, I think it must be said Simon that the next move is up to you, and I'm sure Mike H will talk us through any stages where there is doubt. All I would add is that if it were me, I would retain one tyre for evidence and every action I take would be recorded by -e mail or similar. We give advice and often simply opinion on here - in my case sometimes helpful, sometimes not. One opinion I would give on this issue is that it is going to take a death or deaths before someone in a postion of responsibility is going to act. Please - someone tell me I'm wrong. No kind regards this time, just concerns. Gareth.