Magnet

Hello Sashi, Am I understanding you correctly by believing you are using 1ltr of oil in 500 miles? (covering around 200 miles/pint in old English). If so, you will get through a 'sump full' in approx. 2500 miles - that is certainly excessive. Can I take it you really don't have blue smoke after leaving this engine idle (with HOT oil) then briefly blipping the accelerator? '.....some smoke on acceleration....' Colour? In my book, Cliff has this spot on. What cc engine do you have as a matter of interesting? Will it pass an MOT??? Depends on smoke ( which by what you say it may satisfy) and if you have all that 'burnt' oil ending up down the exhaust I would guess it is unlikely to pass the HC emissions. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Mileage? When was oil and filter last changed ? Grade of oil you are using?

Thanks for the photos Piotr, but it wasn't the actual machining process which concerned me, it's the wisdom of considering removing almost 10mm from the centre bore of these particular wheels. My personal opinion (and of course it's just that) is that I would not consider it in this case, if that amount of metal has to be removed. I repeat my apologies, for disagreeing with you, and obviously Roberto can decide on his safest course of action. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, '...I would get these to a specialist to - machine the centre bore to fit.' Sorry to contradict, but I'm not sure how you can safely recommend this course of action to Roberto when you don't know ( OK, I'm assuming you don't know) how much remaining metal there will be left after they are bored out. OK, this may not be a true guide, but have a look at how close the centre Audi cover is to the wheel nut holes. These may be Audi wheels, but they were obviously not designed to fit this model. Pretty they may be, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Roberto, Sorry to hear of your problem with these wheels. Apologies for being pessimistic, but I think realistic. The truth is that these wheels were not designed to fit your model, so they are non standard, and as such you would need to notify your insurerers that (if they were made to fit) that the car was now fitted with non standard road wheels - otherwise your insurance could be adversely affected if you claimed, or someone claims against you. On the question of trying to make them fit:- If I had the facility to accurately remove approx. 10mm from the centre bore of these wheels, would I? Most definitely not, since it would have an adverse affect in the structural strength of the wheel. Would I add spacers to these? Again, no I wouldn't , since the the then running centre line of the wheel will be different from that designed-in when the hub bearing position was calculated. As I said, this is all very pessimistic, but I fear it would not be wise to do anything to make these wheels fit - as appealing as they may be to you. If I was in your situation, I would be selling these on and buying wheels which were optional available designs when the model was built. If you stick with this, they should fit and they should not have any adverse insurance implications. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brad, Sorry to hear of your issue , but I feel this problem is not something you should need to trouble yourself over. Since the car is no more then 6 months old and obviously well within warranty, the simple solution is to arrange to return it to the dealer for them to resolve the unacceptable problem at VAG's expense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sashi, To answer the broad brush question of whether oil 'additives' will fix your priblem, depends on what the details of the problem are, apart for some oil on the spark plug threads on nos. 3 & 4. Is the car using oil, and if so what quantity over what mileage? Does the car emit blue smoke at any time? If it does use some oil and if it pushes out blue smoke, you need to find out when it emits blue smoke. Following a 10 mile run, rev the engine to a steady 2000rpm for at least two minutes and see if it pushes out blue smoke. If it does then it's likely to be worn piston rings, but other on-road tests would be necessary to really determine this. Next test is to let the engine idle (again after a 10 mile run) then quickly blip the accelerator and look for blue smoke. If it blows out smoke on this test, then it's more likely to be worn valve guides/ valve stem seals. If you have worn piston rings then I doubt whether any additive is going to be of much help. If it's worn valve stem seals then it may. These work on the principle of 'attacking' the rubber components in seals and making them swell, so really a bodge! , but.... Perhaps you can give us some more information. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Sorry to hear you now cannot have the engine of your choice. I'm sure someone on here will be able to advise on the pros and cons of the lower powered engine in comparison with the original 3ltr. Apologies, I cannot. Re. '...wondered whether I will end up with the facelift model.......' Just wondered if you knew of this impending facelift when you ordered for the August delivery? Presumably not, since I guess you would have waited to ensure you are not registering new a just-to-be-replaced vehicle. It's probably me baulking at the perceived belief that vehicle will be valued the same as the incoming new 1st. September registration - the salesman's August sales generating speak. I think this might work out to your advantage Rob if you carefully specify your requirements :- you will not want the outgoing model. These run out models are frequently sold at attractive prices and fitted with extra toys.... but obviously depreciate more quickly and of course are outdated as new! You require the vehicle to registered under a 68 plate - which of course it willl now be since it's not due to you until September. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back on this Claire, and we are pleased for you that it is only minor damage. I think you have done the right thing by getting the car inspected to gain reassurance that the damage is indeed confined to the parts you see. I don't think you can assume all is well until it has been inspected and confirmed to be so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Claire, Many thanks for the prompt reply, and it certainly does clarify things. Sorry to have asked, but in the original photos, the parts on the right could be confused for being metal, and looked rather 'deteriorated' for the age. My stab it this is that they are part of the general front under tray assembly and covers for where the jack would be placed (probably the lowest points on the car). Safe to drive? Always a difficult question and one where I would respond by suggesting that although you know these (probably structurally insignificant) parts are damaged/detached, you don't really know the full extent of any unseen damage. If it were mine, I would be calling in to your friendly local garage at the first opportunity (almost certsin to be dealt with quicker than trying to book it in to the Audi dealer), and asking them to put it or the ramp and inspect the damage for you. Armed with this information, you can then nip along to Audi and order the parts, and again, if it were me, I would get your local garage to fit them for you - assuming there isn't any other 'structural' damage. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Claire, Sorry to hear of your issue. A couple of pointers which may be of help:- Could you confirm that these are not off your 2018 A3, and if you would be able to post underside views of the two parts shown on the left of the photos. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sorry to hear that 'no one is talking to you'. Disappointing for you, and forum to hear your comments. OK , your comments are real and meaningful, and you could well be correct in your analysis that ..... (Your) ..'questions are too technical for this forum,?????...' I'm sure you will appreciate John that this (and no doubt many other forums) are followed and responded to by amateurs, who's knowledge will very often be limited to experience of having dealt with a specific problem in the past. I don't think we are blessed with too many actual current-hands-on Audi technicians - unfortunately. Technical questions are sometimes just that, and can be testing for those trying to help, and it would seem from your questions that you may be possibly more clued up on some of this modern technology that the folks on here, so the chances of gaining free advice in an extention of your knowledge - may be rather slim. Unfortunate in your cases, but seemly you have a valid point. A couple of things I would point out:- I think SteveQ is correct when be welcomes new posters on hear by saying that contributors are generally friendly. All I can add to that is that I think the majority of responders genuinely try to be helpful - if they can! The good folks who 'run' this forum do so 'freely' and without reward. Personally, I think they aim to do the best they can with what they have. Finally Steve - as I said- I get the impression that you are generally clued up on the type of question you ask, and I think the forum would benefit from your input to perhaps help others who are not do knowledgeable. It's the potential for assistance from the likes of yourself which keep this going. Having carried in too long, I'm going to forget about problems and just enjoy the day. Off now to a nice drive in the classic car to a friendly show in my home village. Have a good day Steve, Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Apologies - no time to check to check for typos.

Hello Steve (Sheffield), Front or back? Mileage? I too agree with Steve - it would be unusual for a bearing to become noisy on a car of this age unless the the mileage is high for the year. (say>100K). Having said that, we thought we were experiencing rear wheel bearing noises on an A3 at around 90k, but in fact the noise was due to tyres ( premium brand) wearing to slight flatting points as they approached 4mm remaining thread. Perhaps you could let us have some answers to the questions, and no doubt someone can advise from there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Eliminating the basic silly things first :- Are you sure the air conditioning is off? It is off when the Econ button shows a red light. Well at least if the 2007 model is the same as the 2006. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sorry to hear of your problems, but very pleased that you have sorted it. When I got to the section of your post and mentioned the brake lights being on, my thoughts were pointed in the direction of a faulty 'brake' light switch. Others more up to date on this latest technology will hopefully confirm that the days of the brake light switch being just that, have long gone, and this switch controls or influences many other functions. When we think of the number of times this makes and breaks as we drive, it's little wonder it can fail. Without being patronising John, it's a revelation to read your post and find that the reason for the problem has been recorded. Unfortunately such follow up is rare, and original posters seldom report back, so the experience can be shared to the benefit of other owners. Happy motoring from this point on. ... Company I bought it off has disappeared .... Not down Swansea way by any chance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathan, Since you are not doing the clutch yourself, do you mind if I repeat my earlier comments about the parts being used. As with all aftermarket parts, there is a fair/ high proportion of low/lower quality parts which are just not worth the labour charge to fit - particularly in your case where the clutch will be subjected to extra strain. Would I just leave it to the garage to chose what make they use? No I certainly wouldn't. Would I fit any other aftermarket clutch apart from LUK? No I wouldn't. Slightly dearer, but well worth the little extra overall in the long run. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Maintaining a sense of humour is an essential part of the day Steve! Apologies for drifting well off the original topic Barry. It's not usually this bad. We trust you are able to get to the bottom of the issue. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, I too am sorry to hear of your grandfather's passing. Judging by your questions, I think the car's future is in good hands. Your questions:- Restore it and keep it? Of course, this will have to be a personal choice, and sentiment (over economics) may play a big part in your decision. Space availability and a spannering ability will also come in to it to some extent. I am sure there will be advice available here if you decide to keep it. Repair and sell? Personally I would not advise spending on it to sell it, since this car will ( generally) only attract enthusiasts, and they will be usually be capable of repairing this. Selling? Its condition , mileage and history are unknow to us, so values and desirabilities are difficult to assess. To sell it to a good home, it needs to be advertised in the right quarters, and I would suggest trying "Classic Car Weekly' and 'Classic Car Buyer' - both offer a free advertising service. As you probably know, cars of this age are now MOT exempt, so technically it could be driven away once taxed and insured. Personally, I would cover yourself with some wording advising against this, since you are not sure of its road worthiness. Another selling bonus is that the car will qualify for cheap/er classic car insurance. Again the publications mentioned, will carry adverts which will help you or a buyer. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

hello Nathan, "Clutch was slipping" in 3rd. and 4th........" Are you saying the clutch was slipping before you had this car remapped? I would have thought that a slipping clutch at 112K miles is unusual, unless the car has been driven over enthusiastically. We have a 147K Audi still on its original, and I would be surprised if this - and far far greater mileages, isn't out of the ordinary. Anyway, if its slipping its slipping, so its either a case of .... 'not giving it some welly', or as you say, investing in a new clutch (and DMF assembly?). Performance kit? Sounds like a good idea if available. If you are buying aftermarket then you won't go far wrong with LUK clutches, (personally this is the only aftermarket make I would use) but probably will with anything else which might be bought on a best-price principle. I'm sure others will be able to give you far more pointers in regard to the .... performance clutch bit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Steve for being critical of me mentioning the marque starting with J on here. Shouldn't be allowed, but someone has to keep the Tata family in pocket money! This our 3rd one in something like 30 years, and I must confess to even having a brief John Prescott moment a couple of years back when I actually had two! They gave me some tablets for it, and I'm back to just the normal one now. Many thanks for having a look at the Removed bits. Personally I think it's pretty good as it is, and I'm sure it filters out unacceptable 4 letter words etc. What it doesn't seem to do is to filter out the abreviations for some of these words e.g. WTx. etc. I just wondered if this could be looked at and these things also dealt with as !Removed! Apologies for adding some extra work, but might be worth having a look at as time allows. Perhaps the Forum Rules could also be updated and request that posters do not use abreviations of unacceptable words. Many thanks again Steve, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Barry, Apologies about the first paragraph confusion! - see later post. Of course, any one of your list of possible causes may be the answer. Those who sadistically! follow some of my responses will confirm that my advice follows a theme of eliminating the basics (generally without much cost) - in your case battery condition and alternator output - before moving on to more complex possibilities. For right or for wrong, that is my old school logic. Reading fault codes is another follow on, but it surprises me how many people treat these codes as the be all and end all answer, and it is often overlooked that the codes shown cannot always be isolated so that they can be interpreted as causes or effects. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

You've got to laugh at some of the reasoning of the computer programming employed by our hard working administrators and moderators when you try to find some logic in . !Removed! words. I was trying to avoid using the word Jaguar (am I allowed to mention such a make on here!?) so used. large p u s s y cat instead, but the middle word was offensive to the programme. Yes, of course, it was always a giggle at schoolboy ages, but.......? What bit of programming logic considers that word to be offensive, yet allows the use of abbreviations of totally unacceptable swear words and words which could offend folks who follow religion? An absolute daftness. Apologies, Trevor, SteveQ and PaulA6 - I genuinely feel your hard work sometimes goes unnoticed, when it certainly should not - but how about zapping all of these unacceptable abbreviated swear words which escape the net. My removed word just brings a smile to the morning, so that must be good. Keep up the good work folks, Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ralph, I had a feeling this car had seen fairly regular pressure washing over its life, and I am guessing with the addition of wheel cleaning fluid, judging by the corrosion of the disc pad retaining 'springs' as seen clearly in photo 3. When you think about the abrasive capabilities of a pressure washer - easily removes ingrained layers of dirt from paving slabs etc - then it's easy to judge its affects on car paintwork and associated components. In my book, these devices mark the early death of paintwork and it would not surprise me that the car will be showing patches of milkiness in the lacquer before the end of your lease. Of course, handing your pride and joy to our lance wealding friends at the £10 car washes is guaranteed to accelerate this problem much faster than the likely additional care you would exercise when doing it yourself. Anyway Ralph, back to your scored and pitted brake discs as assessed from your photos:- My opinion (and of course it's only one personal opinion) is that Audi would reason (understandably??) their way out of this, and claim your jet washing - and I guess the use of cleaning chemicals - has been a contributory factor here in the early pitting and subsequent scoring of the discs. If it were mine, I would also be concerned about the level of corrosion on the associated brake components. Back to DIY pressure washing Ralph. I can work through the logic of it being far easier to run a car down to the local lance boys and hand over £5/£10 for the privilege of having the paintwork wrecked over time - no effort on the driver's part. Now DIY pressure washing entails getting the (bought in) washer out onto the drive, connecting up the electrical supply and a water hose supply to result in the same potential longer term problem. If it were me, simply run the water hose out as you have to anyway, fill your £1 shop bucket with water, add a good wax shampoo and wash it by hand in not much more time. Apologies for all the above, and all I can add is to trust you have a favourable outcome with a claim against Audi for using 'faulty components'. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ralph. Sorry I should have asked who washes it and how. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Barry, Always difficult to diagnose such issues from afar. What I can say say is that I, and a number of owners of the same marque, have experienced similar temporary issues with non Audi s (large !Removed! cats!). Difference:- these problems show up on cold mornings and as you say are easily rectified by switching off and back on again. My reasoning is that battery voltage is not up to par on the cold mornings. Yours and hot summer days. Air con on? If it were mine:- I would do two things to start with - get the battery condition checked when you are sure it is near to fully charged ( it should be serviceable at 5 years old if it's the original one, but...) and also get the alternator output checked. It might also be worth testing if this problem occurs when you have the air con. switched off. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ralph, I share your disappointment with this situation. To keep this brief (which is not my usual forte!), could I ask -as a matter of interest - how you have generally cleaned the car during your ownership? Kind regards, Gareth.