Magnet

Interesting Sorry got the numbers confuse in my slightly earlier post. Silly me! Now more sense! So what would a 1994 Audi Carbriolet with 147k miles, no MOT and which has been off the road for the last 7 years be worth then? Remove the royal connection and have a guess. Add the royal connection and we know the anticipated answer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Headlight flasher operation working Dan? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, Sorry to hear of your problem. I think all those who have responded are really asking - have you asked the Audi dealership to give you a report on what has actually happened to your engine and why? The answer must be with them and to simply say it requires a new engine is not enough, and I don't believe a meaningful advice will be had via. the forum until you have that report from them. Whether you understand that report doesn't really matter, but need it you certainly do. Personally, I would not be content with a verbal report, but an e-mailed one would be acceptable - which you could then post on here. It might be interesting to know how long you have owned this car, and whether it has a documented service history, and when it as last serviced. We take it the car has not been subject to recall in the recent past. "Causation" . Any chance you are in the legal/insurance claim business? Not a term often used on here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Now this may be a seriously daft response, but could this noise be from the power steering rather than the drive train? Unlikely I guess - since this is an electrically powered system rather than a hydraulic fluid one - isn't it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, OK, so you have fitted an aftermarket lambda sensor, and although I've seen more generic aftermarket ones where you even have to make up your own connectors, the chances of it being sub standard as new is greater than if you went with a VAG. Code readings are of course, now an essential part of the whole diagnostics of trouble shooting. Being more from the old school of basic logical thought and problem solving means I'm not going to be of much use it you, but I would point out that you have to have a clear mind when interpreting these codes, since they can be either the basic cause, or they can be as a result of the effect of the basic cause. Not very well explained but it's the old cause-and-effect senario. The fact that you have a fault code relating to a specific component does not necessarily mean that component is at fault. The fault could be with another component which influences the component which shows the fault code. I'm not sure that is any better explained , but.....! Once you are satisfied all the wiring and associated connectors are sound, would it be worth returning this sensor to our friends at Euro Car Parts on the basis that it is faulty, and request a replacement, or your money back and getting a VAG one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well Trevor, I am amazed, particularly since this is an INA bearing, and they are supposed to be/were very reputable and I believe supply OE to the motor manufacturers. A couple of questions: Did you buy it as part of a kit ( e.g. I know Gates were using INA tensioners for example)? Have you checked with INA Technical on this, to confirm it is indeed a genuine INA product? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I still maintain that these at least look similar to a conventional mild steel bolt rather than a high tension one. What are the markings on the head Trev? Our freinds very much far east of the channel are great at replicating what things should look like!

Thanks Kev, Now things start to make sense. £160 + VAT for the part, which equals £192 in Welsh money. These kits appear to be on a certain bay auction from £111 and trending at around £150 - these prices inc. VAT and delivery. Obviously your garage make a margin on the parts, and that is to be expected. Your call but:- I still stand by my original advice, and although I would use Gates aftermarket as a second choice, I would not use their water pumps, since I don't know who's pumps they use ( I know which tensioner manufacturer they use). I would check with the VAG contact I gave you and get their discounted price for the cambelt kit, and then the price for the water pump. You then have your full set of information to compare and see if it's worth saving £X over the main dealer parts. Don't forget to check on the auxiliary belt cost as well. Of course, the best option may be to try to source a main dealer who has an offer on cambelt changes as I and others had mentioned. You might well find the best deal may not be thst much dearer than your local garage. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, Welcome. I think Steve's advice of checking with your local Audi dealer regarding any recorded service history is well worth following. I'm sure Steve will be better placed to know about this than me, but I think it may be useful to have the VIN (number) to hand when you contact them, as well as the registration number. Timing belt? Those more knowledgeable on diesel engines than I, will advise you whether this is a chain or belt driven engine. Even if a chain, it may be wise not to ignore it anyway. If a belt, it is indeed very wise to consider changing this if you cannot establish when it was last done, and indeed, even if this may not be too long ago - find out what make if belt was used. As you will know, the belt, tensioners, and water pump make up a "critical parts" application package on belt driven engines, and in my book the first choice would always, alway, be main dealer parts (at discount would be great and is usually possible). The only aftermarket belt I would consider is the one your garage mentioned - Gates. Gates are reputable and manufacture belts for motor manufacturers. Draw the line at these two Kev. If you start delving into cheaper kits then you start to lose the plot. This certainly isn't a cost-is-King job. The quote of £160 from your local garage (not main dealer?) - is that for the supply ( of Gates kit) and fit? If so , this seems rather cheap (too cheap?) to me. Where to beware:- OK , so you decide to go for Gates and see a kit at a great price on the Internet and decide to go for that. Beware, since these may be old stock and perhaps even older than the recommended years- change interval that Audi recommend as a change! Same with the odd Audi kits which turn up from time to time. Water pumps. Critical part of the set up, and believe me, there are some .....p aftermarket pumps available. My advice is to just don't go there, You can get Gates kits with water pumps, but I don't have any experience of who makes the pumps for their kits, so I would be rather hesitant to go with that. For me, it would be a VAG only part, and I know they did actually do reconditioned exchange pumps. It would probably be well worth changing the auxiliary (serpentine) belt at the same time, since if these go, they can wrap themselves around all sorts of moving parts which can lead to the timing belt jumping a tooth. Again, main dealer or Gates only. Last point Kev. Main dealers sometimes have offers on timing belt changes so could be worth looking into that.as well. I mentioned main dealer at discounts, and I know Rainsworth Skoda (Nottingham?) usually offer mail order discounts. No connection, and no doubt there are others. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark. Got a better understanding now, which is starter spins but does not engage, rather than engages but does not turn the engine over to start the car. I think we are on the same lines here of the starter pinion possibly not throwing along the shaft and engaging with the flywheel teeth. I would not have thought that the flywheel teeth are the issue here since you would expect some grinding noises as the pinion tries to engage the worn teeth. Of course, keep in mind a now sub serviceable starter motor where it does not actually spin fast enough to throw the pinion enough. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, One question I would ask is how old is the battery, and have you had it checked for efficiency? I ask since it might reluctantly give just enough umph to (reluctantly) engage the starter motor and indeed turn the engine over, but the residual voltage may be so low - even around 10 volts- that the car may not start. I'm not saying it is this, but I would eliminate this first. OK, battery may be newish, but there does seem to be a higher proportion of early failures on batteries than there used to be. Good luck n getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Many thanks for coming back on this, and although you are yet unsure where they sourced this part, I think it's fair to say it is unlikely to be ex VAG dealer, and more likely to be their local motor factors. Europarts? Any other aftermarket parts supllers? I think it's fair to say some aftermarket parts from any factor can be substandard , but most will usually be cheaper than main dealer full price parts. Critical application parts such as this should not - in my opinion, anyway- be bought on price, but on understood quality. Very often, if you shop around main dealers then you are likely to be able to buy OE parts at discount, (I can recommend one - but I'm sure there are more ) and very often not that much more than what you might pay for the ones the motor factors throw at you from foreign parts. Buy once and wisely is good practice certanly if it's DIY, and even where you ad paying labour charges for fitting them Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Although it might be difficult to believe that a new lambda sensor may not be up to the mark, I would first ask whether the sensor used was a genuine VAG one or a so called genetic variant. It will probably help to know this before delving further into other possibilities. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, I wouldn't claim this is the source of your problems, but such problems can occur where the wiring into the door from the A post - via the flexible rubber sheathing - has become brittle over time and one or more wires almost/do break. This section of the harness really does get a bit if a hammering, particularly in the colder months where insulation becomes more brittle. It might be worth peeling back the flexible sheathing and just checking there before delving any further. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Scott, Well Trevor - great minds think alike. Although in my case it could be idiots always agree! Seriously, this looks more like a B&Q ordinary mild steel rough-as-a-badger's-backside threaded screw rather than a high tensile set bolt. Probably simply sheared at some stress raiser point along the thread where these threads are rough. Surely, surely, this is not a VAG sourced part ( please tell me it's not Scott), but looks suspiciously like it may have been made very far east of the English channel and found its way to the local motor factors or an EBay listing. Really interested in this, since I'm sure someone else has had a similar experience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Mileage is 84,561 Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, To other forum contributors:- Am I right in thinking someone else asked about this type of issue some time ago? If so, I think I asked for details of where the fracture occurred ( but we didn't get an answer?). Could you let us know Scott, and ideally post a photo of the point of shear. My guess at it would be at what is call the run out of the thread I.e where the thread ends. Another point of interest would be the actual supply source of this part. VAG main dealer, or aftermarket? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, I wonder what year these cars you have been looking at are. I ask, since it may help if you look under the recall section of this forum where you will see there had been performance issues with cars which have been subject to these recalls. I just wonder if you have been road testing so called rectified recalled cars. Whatever, most folks will stress the vital importance of service history, as if it's the be all and end all - in itself - of the freedom from major mechanical issues. I take a broader brush approach and always recommend talking with the last registered keeper about the car , since thereby hangs the full tale of how the car has bahaved itself between its visit to the dealer for servicing! Good luck with finding the car which suits you, and if it were me, I would be doing as much pre purchase research on the actual car which finally interests you, and try to take a detached view on the falling in love with the look of it bit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Just a couple of questions;- Is the car fairly new to you, or have you had experience of it handling better prior to doing the suspension work? What make tyres do you have on it and what would you say is the remaining tread depth? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Glad the cause has been established, and I take no comfort from the fact that my diagnosis ( via. the question of which two cylinders were lower) turned out to be correct. Now, your sophisticated diagnostics is fine, but being from the old school of mechanic-ing as the great Fred Dibnah used to say, I tend to look at symptoms and ask questions and take a logical approach to these things. Those compression figures just jump out at them, and irrespective of knock sensors etc.etc. it just shouts head gasket blowing between the two adjacent cylinders and passing opposing pressure onto the neighbouring cylinder - which says 'this isn't right - I going to let you know by pinking" . Thimple, as our friends on hind legs would say! Machanic-ing with logic should over rule the diagnostics, and the garage's failure to spot this problem from the outset, has done serious damage to that which sits in your back pocket! Great shame. Still John, the beloved car is going to be well again and that is important. Back to those compression figures - I shudder at their interpretation of valve problems. Oh dear dear me! I ask, is there still a need for the elderly here or should we (elderly) all be sitting in homes out of the way? I've probably got shoes older than these chaps, and I guess I should now have forgotten most of what no one taught me in the first place! Jovial rank over. Good luck with it John, Kind regards, Gareth.

"I'm hoping you are not taking your A6 back there again?!" Um?? Battles won can give satisfaction, but battles they are, and battles simply equals hassle. I think a lot of people will echo your comment Steve. Of course, there might be a school of thought that these people "owe me" a couple more free MOTs and the fact that this year's battle has been fruitful in the end, that it's worth returning next year to have a similar chance of satisfaction if another battle is necessary. Would I be right in thinking most of us on here would simply steer well clear of whatever is left of this "free MOT" , and simply foster good relations with a local MOT station? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Cameron, I share Dan's comments, and I feel he is being as polite as can be in his reaction to what many would consider to be an almost unbelievable quote! Question regarding whether you can get this done at a non-Audi garage is I think answered by yes you can, providing the approved "parts" are used by the (VAT registered) garage doing the work and they provide you with receipts for the parts and work done. If it were mine, I would first follow Dan's advice and get an alternative quotation from another Audi dealer. My suspicion here is that you might be assuming it requires an oil (and filter) change whereas the car is due for a service, and they have quoted you for the service and not simply just changing the oil and filter. Let us know on that Cameron, and if indeed you are correct with this charge for simply changing the oil, then we can advise you what options you have from there. No point in going through it all until this bit is clarified. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dayan, I'm sure I am not experienced enough to answer your questions, but perhaps some of the following may be useful to know while others far more experienced than me offer you meaningful advice. What I would ask is, are you an "enthusiastic" driver and welcome road holding over comfort, or is the S Line of more interest to you than the SE due to the S Lines looks etc? I think thereby lies the answer to your question, and of course, you have to be the judge of this. Compromises are always necessary, but I really think it does boil down to which of the two is more important to you. I'm sure others will assist you much more than I once they know your preference. On a personal note, I have a non-Audi sport variant (bought used) but I bought it due to its condition and equipment, and in preference, I would have preferred the non-Sport model if I could have found an equally nice one. My preference is for ride comfort rather than throwing it around corners, but in my case availability decided the choice. I think you are very wise to seek good advice before committing. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Dave, That's great and interesting news. Interesting from the point of view that these differences normally come out the other way, and you can (sometimes) find that you get a more competitive quote by going direct to the insurer. In your case thst obviously hasn't worked. I guess you have no doubt confirmed that the actual level of cover you are getting is exactly the same as that which you had via. your direct quote, since comparison sites are generally set up to list the cheapest possible cover from each insurer. Things like reasonable excesses, courtesy cars, legal protection, NCB protection etc., etc. then become 'add-ons' at additional premiums. Thanks for sharing this. Kind regards, Gareth. ADMIN. folks:- Worth moving this to Insurance topic?

Hello Lee, Thanks for coming back on this. If the registration throws up the possibility of two different types then there there are three ways to possibly resolve which are the the correct ones (in ease of doing):- Contact the seller and ask if they would know from the VIN? which would be the correct one. Contact your local Audi dealer - give the VIN - and ask the same question, get the Audi part number and refer back to the EBay seller. Take one pad out, measure and photograph it, and then identify which one you need to buy. "I assume I can buy any pad as long as they correspond with the the right discs- yes?" Answer is indeed yes, once you know what are the the correct part number pads you want. I'm sensing cheapest correct ones wins here! The only good example comparison I can make for you is:- You need a new pair of trainers, so you go along to the local Sunday market stall and buy the cheapest ones that fit you - yes? Probably no, and I guess you would want the better quality at the best price. Brakes are meant to save your life - and others, and cheap means cheap, and you will find out they don't stop you as good as Audi/quality brands, and they just won't last as long. Beware, even brands once recognised as being amongst the best aftermarket quality, are now simply bought-out brand names and those names supposedly bringing some degree of respectability to the parts! I'm from the school of buy once and wisely, and it might be worth bearing in mind that you are saving a fair amount in labour by doing it yourself, so why scrimp on cheapest parts? Obviously your call Lee, and good luck in finding what you need. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, They should be able to identify the correct ones when you let them know what your registration number is. Wondered what brand of brake pads you were thinking of buying, and whether you were indending to go for the best price deal. Kind regards, Gareth.