Magnet

If you cannot alter your profile name, then please at least respond to let s know so, and we will ask Admin to do it for you. Some response from you since posting on 27th Aug. would reasonably be expected.

I think the days of the same caters-for-all-extras wiring loom being fitted to all vehicles has long gone. Most likely the harness is built to only cater for the equipment listed on that specification. I think you are wise to leave any ‘additions’ to a specialist, unless you are fully experienced with such things. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dave, We are currently waiting for the OP to return to the forum to view any of the suggestions and questions asked, after asking for help.

It will end up a mess with touch up, and just devalue to car. The small amount extra for an aerosol will be a must. Obviously spray them before fitting.

Thanks Gordon. Do you need to actually remove the rear bumper to get at the sensor? I did on our A3 since access would have been otherwise very difficult. Be prepared for a tussle with removing the electrical connector - well it was a headache on mine. Getting the sensor out of the bumper was less so. You going to spray yours before fitting? Front, and arch removal? Don’t know, you will just have to lay on your back and see what you can see, and get at. Would guess you would get away with arch liner removal, but….? Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for joining Gordon. Right means when viewed from the rear - as RHD for example. Sensors:- I guess you know Audi will extract north of £110 from your wallet for one sensor. I bought a replacement off EBay a year or so back, and it even had the Audi part number ‘cast’ into it - less than £20. Initially fine, but doesn’t like wet weather! Time over again:- would pay a bit extra for a Valeo one. Any better in the long run?? Let us know how you get on Gordon.. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Colin, and thanks for joining. As far as I’m aware, a weld repair on a subframe will lead to an MOT failure, so in essence, the answer is no, you cannot weld your rusty one. Even if my take on it is not absolutely correct, I would have thought you would be taking a chance on a failure having done all the work necessary to get to that welding stage. Alternatives:- List your ‘want’ on the on-line breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are others. Look up a site called IM Axles ( I think that is what they are called). They do new sub frames for more modern cars. For your model?? - but worth an ask. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

To save us repeating where you have tried, where have you looked so far William?

Welcome Robi, and thanks for joining. Did the alignment people thoroughly check all aspects of the suspension and steering before making their adjustments, or did they simply stick it on the machine? When did this wobble occur? - have you had any new tyres on the car before it started? Any time tie up with having new discs and pads fitted? Are the tyre treads reasonably evenly matched on all four wheels, and are the brands matching - at least on the same axle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered when you are thinking about sharing your name with us Mr. G ?

Any answers for us Oliver?

Thanks Michael. Let us know how you get on with P in M quotes. Should I mention you may need the dual mass flywheel as well! Just let us know if we can help further. Well worth contacting LUK Technical if you have any ambiguities. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, so the appropriate fuse was in tack then -? If so, I would suspect a break in the elements. Have you got a multi meter to test it for continuity? Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh blinking heck Michael - hope it was super cheap, and you like work. First double check it is the internal type. Pretty sure it is but… Why ECP, particularly since they no longer offer discounts on so called retail prices. Didn’t buy much before, since even with the high discounts, they seldom worked out cheaper than alternative suppliers? If it is internal, then it’s obviously gearbox out, and it would be daft not to replace the other clutch components while it’s out. The only make of clutch I would fit would be LUK. Try inputting your reg. no. into Parts in Motion website - down in Exeter. They are usually competitive. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on Michael. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Alan, but surely it’s not your responsibility to fix or diagnose. Did the car go to the garage with the warning light illuminated? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Cliff, but there is no need for Dan to apologise. I guess it’s what we can expect to top it off when we sit here being a rapid and free source of advice. My turn to apologise to you Dan- I won’t be offering any further comments on your posts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michael and thanks for joining. My stab at it is it is most likely to be inside the bell housing. This is going to cost many hundred of pounds to fix if I’m right. Did you buy it from a trader? Did you buy it knowing it had or had had this issue? If bought privately, how was the advert worded? Perhaps you could come back to us Micheal. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thought that was the clear enough suggestion Dan, but if you want a positive answer to your yeah? - it’s yes.

Hello Paul, Fuses blow to protect the wiring if the is a short circuit in the wiring. They just don’t blow without there being a fault. Can we take it you have a handbook for the car, and you have checked for fuse locations in there? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Graham, and thanks for joining. There have been many posts on various models on the subject of replacing the goo and compressor with an actual spare wheel. It would be well worth doing a forum search on the subject. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good luck with finding it an appreciative home Lloyd. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think the answer is quite clear Dan.

Twice a year Cliff! It puts me in mind of a late friend of mine who was telephoned by another friend of his. His wife said ‘he’s having a bath’ to which the retort was ‘Is it that time of year already!? We are all different, but I wouldn’t put a pressure washer near paintwork - even only twice a year. If you see how it cleans your patio, you will know why - with or without chemicals. Really bad news in my book. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dan, A school of thought to consider:- Renewing the ABS sensor is fine. ( what brand did you use?) The sensor is just that, it senses the signal from the wheel hub. I believe the sender (which the sensor receives it signal from) is integral with the hub, and it maybe this sender is at fault - and not the sensor. If that is the case, then a replacement hub will be needed. Febi hubs have been used to good effect. Perhaps you could keep us updated on developments. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Rigo, Judging by what you have already done, it just leaves the next stage of !Removed! in an oil pressure gauge and physically reading the running oil pressure following a 10 mile run to ensure the oil is up to operating temperature. Hold revs. steady at around 2000rpm and read the pressure. I don’t think - but certainly don’t know for definite - whether the running oil pressure reading can be seen digitally via. diagnostics. Worth researching that first. Let us know how you get on Rigo. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The ‘removed’ bit is to thread ( alternative word ) in ….