Magnet

You should not use Copperslip on the shims Dan. Others will correct, but I think you now use a thin sliver of silicone grease. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, 'Like a stone stuck in the tyre'. Wondered if you have actually had the tyres inspected for picked- up debris such as a screw or bolt. I find that it is always worth eliminating the possible simple causes before moving on to more complex reasons. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Darell, If there isn't a dipstick - and I would certainly be checking in your handbook to confirm this, and/or Googling/reference to local main dealer to confirm - then you are in possible grave danger of overfilling this engine IF the oil level sensor is faulty - and it may well be. As Dan says, with that oil consumption (if it is indeed consuming it as opposed to you overfilling it!) then I would believe you are going to see excessive blue smoke or oil leaks or both. If you don't have a dipstick then one solution to start would be to renew (only with VAG part) the oil level sensor. Then drain the oil and measure the quantity removed and compare it with the recommended refill quantity to see if it is over or under filled. Add the correct quantity of oil and road test for 150 miles and see if the light comes on again. If it idoes, you and the selling garage are in the smelly stuff. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, Was the coolant temperature sensor a main dealer part? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Darell, I would advise being careful here, and you may well have been, but can I confirm that you have a dip stick as well as the oil level warning light? If so, just ingnore the instruction about how much oil to add - you say 1litre- but add just enough to bring the level to the full mark when cold. Do another 150 miles and top up (if necessary) when cold, with oil back to the full mark, measuring carefully how much you add. You can then calculate the oil consumption per 1000 miles. Beware here that you don't simply add a litre when the level light comes on, since the level indicator may be at fault. What grade of oil are use using as a matter of interest? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Despite your independent not being able to find anything wrong via. an inspection, I wonder what sort of inspection they carried out - perhaps just a brief look at!? There is obviuosly something wrong here, and the car is letting you know that, and you are wise to make further enquiries. If it were mine, I would be giving the rear brakes a good coat of looking at, and particularly the brake bake plates ( shields) which are prone to rusting and bits distorting and possibly touching where they shouldn't be touching, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Darell, Sorry to hear of your concerns. I would have thought that around 250 miles to a pint ( sorry about the old language!) is not what I would consider acceptable for a 69K engine, but I do take Dan's point about what the oil level was when you took delivery. Very important, since it might just have been an oversight and filled to just above the minimum level, and obviously any oil usage is likely to throw up the low oil level light. Of course, you may have checked it when you first had it and know the level as at full. Taking Dan's recommendation, you must return this level to the full mark with the correct grade oil (5/30 ?? - you would be to check) and monitor the consumption say per 500 miles to return to the same level. Kind regards, Gareth.

You would have to find a fitted distributor first Derek. Long gone I'm afraid and now you find coil packs - not to be confused with coil overs I guess. Simplicity was not a bad thing and you could tinker with such mechanical contrivances rather than shoving an instrument up your computer plug hole! They even got from A to B. Amazing! Kind regards, Gareth.

Love the old fashioned bit! I actually recall the days of pre steering locks and Krooklock - hooking the clutch pedal to the steering wheel to prevent the clutch pedal being depressed. I ran Morris 1000s for many years, after their production run time, and my favourite contribution to security was to fit a hidden switch in line with the electric fuel pump. This ensured the car could be found within a few hundred yards of where you parked it - having effectively run out of fuel! I frequently forgot to switch it back on, only to find the car almost coming to a standstill until I remembered to switch it back on. Not beyond the bounds of some thought to fit something similar and covert to today's vehicles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, does your car have built in mounting points for roof bars? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Steve, Just as a matter of interest to me - are Mercedes seats still rather uncomfortably hard after a long ( well anything other than local use) run, compared with the Audi? Perhaps they have changed now. Hi Shane, This certainly is not meant to put a damper on anything or appear critical, and I'm sure you will choose the right one for you, but it goes to show that car designers have it absolutely right, and we are attracted to buying what we see and think is attractive as the first option, rather than any other consideration. Driving them becomes the second consideration - but appeal to us and our views on the appeal to others is always important. Enjoy Shane. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Well, that's something new and interesting! Is it a trike or a bike? Anyway, as you say - a difficult one, but this could be from the period when they ran on an actual separate ignition coil, and electronic ignition via. a module in the distributor. These modules could break down and give symptoms such as you have. Now, I could be wrong, but worth some homework, or I'm sure someone on here might come up with some more meaningful help. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shay, So we know it's OK starting from cold but shudders for a couple of seconds when started from hot. Now if it's only a couple of seconds of shudder then I guess the car has barely been put into Drive and this shudder must simply be when the engine ticks over for those seconds. Is this right? If so, is there any associated smoke? - you will probably need an assistant to check this. A stab at this while you come back with some more detail ( and depending if I'm understanding it correctly) would be to think about having the injectors checked. Perhaps the simple leak back test to start. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well Tom, Fair do s as they say around these parts. You've just jumped in and done it! No messing about with checking and all that nonsense, you've just married it - come what may. Buying a speedometer reading is fine I guess! How do I check service history??! Just enjoy it Tom. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

No problem at all, if you dismiss the possibility of holes in the roof in wrong places, holes in headlining where you didn't think you would have them. Um? Now what are we going to do?

Hello Marcin, Possibly not going to help us too much, but will this engine rev. freely above 2200 rpm while not under load? I'm have one of these 1.6 and I must say its not the most spritely of engines under the best of circumstances, and seems to lack a bit of get up and go between gears until the revs pick up. Ok now over 140K on mine, but always been the same. Having said that there is onbviously something wrong with yours. Kind regards, Gareth.

Personally I would be ordering a new filter and putting it in myself as part of the treatment. You will know it's been done then. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Just on here and spotted your post. Not sure whether you think the car is currently high mileage or if it will be in two years time when you add another 24K. In reality, neither will really apply to my mind, in terms of high mileage. The car is currently 7 years old so has covered a lower than average mileage to date ( could be at least 84K), and I am sure that the old formula of 12K average a year is somewhat out of date as commutes become longer. Perhaps 14/15K is now a more realistic average, and if so this car could have already covered near to 100K. So high mileage? Not at all really -even when you add 24K it will still be below average. Being bought from a main dealer? I guess probably not due to its age. Reputable dealer? 6 months warranty - parts and labour? Labour cover is most important. Well worth having copy of the warranty conditions and reading up on what is excluded rather than included. It's generally what is excluded is of greatest importance. I would also advise doing your homework,and checking what has been done/changed in terms of its service history (main dealer? ) rather than depend on a stamp in a service book. Worth checking with previous owners with regard to problems - as I've said before, this vital stage is often overlooked. By doing all your homework, you should make the right decision and enjoy your purchase. We are talking a 2010 car here as per your heading? Good luck. Gareth.

Hello, Not sure what your answer is whether the cabin filter has been changed or not. If it were mine, I would ensure this is changed before you set about your cleaning routine. Strange things cabin/ pollen filters and scheduled changes. My experience at main dealers included getting a quote for the due service then asking if that price included a new cabin filter. Generally no! That will be £X more. Even when changed, it seemed to get very dirty in the following year! - if you see what I mean. Generally not a difficult job and worth doing it yourself for peace of mind- for Clifornia I guess every year. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for clarifying that Tabstar. Now who is brave enough to drill their roof? Any drilling templates to go with these? Gluing on!! Must remember to stay well back behind any A3 with roof rails, just incase they have been glued on! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Has the pollen/cabin filter been changed on this since new? This appears to be a fairly common problem and relatively easily sorted by a cleaning and spraying- into- air-duct procedure. I'm sure you will find this in detail via. a Google search, but worth getting the flier change if not already done so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tabstar, Can you confirm that the roof had to be drilled on say a 2006 Sportback to allow these to be fitted? Might be worth listing these under Sales and Wants. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David again, Sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. Without being critical, I'm guessing you are not really spanner wise! Nothing at all wrong with that, and great that you seek advice, and the best advice I would give you is to foster relations at one (smallish?) garage in your locality that you hopefully learn to trust and respect. They will be your best bet in looking after your best interest. Not sure how big the company you work for are, but if of some size and this garage is local to your workplace, then usually they tend to depend upon a good reputation, since bad news travels fast in a small locality. From your part David, what you need to do is to look after the car you have, to make sure it looks after you! OK, not very spanner wise, but make sure you check the oil and water once a week ( "I refilled it a couple of weeks ago" is just bad news!) Check your tyre pressures once a month - and so on. All very basic, but well worthwhile. Yes, I know there are more interesting things to do, but.... End of advice! - and good luck with getting it sorted as best and most economically as possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

I wouldn't want to appear to be labouring the point Rob, but I would not necessarily go with the idea that chains are for life -. Well of course, they are for the life of the chain! - which may not be the same as what the life of the engine would have been if the chain and tensioner wear had been attended to ! Have a look at other threads where such wear has resulted in catastrophic engine failure. 4 year time interval for changing belts? Agree it would be good - but erring on the side of caution, and perhaps more like..... or 5 years which ever comes first ...normally. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good news David. With the steering rack:- Most components for a particular make, model and engine variant remained the same over a number of years. So let's say you would have had the same rack on a 2001 to 2006 A3 1.6 - this is only an EXAMPLE and may NOT be fact. Couple of options:- If you have faith in your garage then ask them to source the correct rack within your budget from a non-Audi source. Maybe the best option if you are unsure. Or, Ring up your Audi dealer and ask them for a (frightening!) price for the rack for your car by giving them the registration number. When they give you the price, ask them for the part number. Armed with this part number, you can search EBay for the correct rack within your budget and confirm with the seller that it is indeed correct by checking the part number with them. Just get a feel for what's what by dong a simple EBay search to start with. That will give you an idea what you are likely to get for your money. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.