Magnet

Hello Andrew, I've not looked at the video, and no doubt it is going to be helpful. One additional tip I was given (correct or not??) - do not open the car door once you start this operation since the brake could apply. If it is correct, then it's probably more important to make sure no one else opens the door when you are working on it. You cannot buy new fingers! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bernie, Does your £500 estimate cover the cost of a new wing, it's fitting and painting, or for repairing your existing one? Any chance you could post a photo of the extent of the rust? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, By reading Steve's replies, I get the impression that this move is a little drastic without full knowledge of what issues there are with your current engine, and indeed the associate components. If so, I must agree. Of course, high emissions can be caused by actual engine wear, but it's more usual for such problems to be caused by so called external engine management components such as catalytic converters, general exhaust system conditions etc. In effect, you might find that you change the engine - with a like for like replacement - and your problem is still there. OK, so the 2 litre engine is considered underpowered ( didn't they do a 1.8 in this model!?) but to change it for a totally different one is likely to result in major surgery. Even if you buy a gearbox as well, you will need to fabricate a 'special' exhaust, and I would have thought that the whole engine management system would also need to be changed. Unless you are equipped to do this, the labour bill alone is possibly going to exceed the value of the car. Then, when you have spent that money, you will need to inform your insurers and be at their mercy with regard to what they are going to charge you - if they will insure it. Alternative:- sell yours as a MOT failure and invest the realistic add-on amount to change the engine to an uprated one, and buy a replacement car. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russell, Very sorry to hear of your problem. I'm not sure I am going to be of much help to you, but could others advise whether what you are looking for is the BCU ( body control unit). I could be way off the mark, but it's possible that is what they were referring to, although I would have expected other circuits to be affected. It might be worth you having an independent to look this over and give you more information on what you actually need to look for, and then try to source a second hand one and hopefully get it programmed to your car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, Just wondering why you want this information, since there is far more to bolts than lengths and diameters. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Sorry to hear of your issue Tony, My thoughts on it:- I think Paul has a good starting point call when he questions the battery. Always attack the simple things first, and it could be - just could be - that although the battery is turning the engine over, the operating voltage may drop when the starter motor is taking a large load. Simple test if you have a basic meter is to put the meter set to DC volts, across the battery terminals, get someone to turn the key while you measure the voltage at the battery. It should be near to 12V but I have known suspect batteries to drop to 10v under load but still turn the engine. So you've now done that test and proved the battery to be suspect or serviceable. Next move:- retrieve the original coolant temperature sensor you threw in the bin and measure the resistance across the two terminals. If it measures over 2.5/3 K ohms cold then it was serviceable, and if it is, if it were mine I would be refitting it, since it is likely to be more serviceable than your replacement! - unless it was a main dealer replacement part. OK a bit daft perhaps but we take it it was the ECU coolant temperature sensor you changed and not the temperature gauge sensor. Very often confused with one another. Fuel filter change was a good insurance, particularly as I understand it VAG do not specify a service life for these, so it's possible it never gets changed. So you've done all of this and it's stil the same. Again on the theme of simple things first, find the fuel pump relay and pull it out with a waggle and refit it having given the holder a squirt of WD40 , and then source a quality non Chineeese replacement. This may solve the problem, but even if it doesn't a replacement relay will stand you in good stead anyway for a very modest outlay. Let us know how you get on Tony, and if all of the above fail then you could be looking at plugging it in ( but that would be the non thinking way around!) Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Take it its 118k miles rather than 11,800? Sorry, don't know where the fuel pump relay is on yours, but Google wil, come to the rescue no doubt.

Well folks, the promotion has got to the parts it was meant to get to! That is to transfer monies from the motorist's wallet to the accounts of those who's products they are meant to promote. OK, so let's forget about who is funding this experiment and take it for granted ( which is what they want you to do) that the bhp is indeed increased by 3%. Great, but how is anyone ever going to notice or evaluate this 3% increase? Then we have the Technical Director (sorry Global TD!) recommending doubling the quantity to use. If it's that good, why does it need to be added to double the concentration? Double the dose means double the amount of money out if your wallet and a potential for doubling the annual bonus of the directors. Then we have the "Advanced" version. Great - so what was wrong with the normal one then which the likes of Asda and Tesco were from time to time selling on offer from £2 ish. OK, the opinion of a cynical mind in terms of 'promotional research' , but just think on that we have been told that sugar is convincingly good for you by research funding by the producers, and ironic, but only yesterday I came across an old cigarette advert claiming cigarettes were good for your throat! Good isn't it? Having said all that, who knows, it might just increase the bhp by 3% and it may be noticeable and worth Halford's discounted price. Perhaps we can do our own tests and assess the improvement. Could be interesting. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Strange how things return to mind, but the car retail trade used to say 'Top Gear today, top prices tomorrow' when buying or selling at auction.

Hello David, Would you perhaps be looking for the compatibility information so you have a better chance of finding a secondhand one? If so, the old logic is that you could be buying your own faulty one! Secondhand is great for major very expensive components, but never really economical for minor parts. If necessary, I would go with Scott's suggestion, but you will find that such websites often use generic images so it's the part number which you would need to follow. Having said that, would I buy an aftermarket sensor? No I wouldn't - the quality of replica electrical/electronic components can be very questionable and although cheaper than main dealer parts, may cost you more in trouble and expense in the long run. The proper way is simply pass your registration number to the dealer and they will ensure you get the correct one. Ask for a discount - they can only say no! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Len, Welcome to the forum, and sorry to hear that you have come across this forum due to dissatisfaction after the recall, rather than via. some research prior to agreeing to get it done. I'm not sure what this forum, and I guess other VAG forums, aren't doing that they could do, to bring to attention the potential pitfalls of subjecting these cars to this recall before it is done. Personally, I cannot see there is much more that they can do, but it's worrying that the bad news is not getting through to where it matters - until it's too late. No doubt you have read all the depressing earlier posts, and unfortunately being realistic, there doesn't appear to be much good news from members who post on here regarding the outcome of their dealings with VAG or the dealers. In effect, there isn't any co-ordinated evidence which points the likes of folks such as yourself down a road to satisfaction. In other words, feedback is very very limited, so unless others on here have more updated knowledge then I'm not sure what this forum can offer - other than commiserations. It has been suggested that the situation can be put to rights? by having the car remapped (at your expense) and perhaps others on here may be able to advise from experience of being in your situation and having the performance reinstated back to where it was. Perhaps you could keep us up to date Len, on how you get on with the dealer and VAG, since it's only by your experiences from here in, can genuine help be offered in the future. Kind regards, Gareth.c

Thanks for coming back Paul. How do you fancy a drive along the M4 down to God's country in S. Wales? Before dismissing this, and a chance to visit the Gower! - have a look on the Mazda MX5 forum and you will find numerous references to Jack Smith trimmers in Swansea. He is a hard working one man band in a back street just off the Mumbles road. Now OK M4 and distance, but I've just used him again to do the same job as yours on a MG TF. It cost me £60, but I chose to splash out and have the more expensive original tinted thicker celluloid rather than the cheaper one which most trimmers use! Otherwise £40. I did take my panel out and take it down to him, but I don't think he charges too much more to do it all. Not sure if this helps, but I doubt you will find better value for the money. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ken, As Steve says, a battery check would be my first port of call - charge it up overnight (or at least by a continuous hour run) and get it checked at Halfords. If it's found to be suspect then you can of course buy a new one there, but I tend to buy from the specialist on line suppliers, by buying quality makes at reasonable prices. If the battery is found to be serviceable then come back and we can advise on assessing parasitic drains etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Nice to hear from someone from the homeland. Probably will be understandably considered a bodge, but the likes of Mercedes and some 90s Jaguars had their rusty arches covered over with some chrome over-arches. Not sure if someone has manufactured them for your Audi. If so, you could get get a body shop to cut out your rust and carry out a basic repair which is then covered with the arch trims. May be a more economic repair than the anticipated four figure sum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Pardon my ignorance but could you confirm this is a glass rear window rather than a celluloid one, and if glass, can we take it the glass has broken and you need to find a replacement and get it sewn in? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, I'm of the same opinion as Cliff here and I believe it is a special grommet into which the shaped fasteners fit. Since the dealer is some way away, couldn't you just e-mail them the photo then once they have that, you could talk with them over the phone? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, Probably stating the bleeding obvious, but I guess you have taken a photo of the opposite side and taken that along to your local Audi dealer, getting them to look it up on their schematic and ordering the bits you want. Re. silicone:- this is the death of any subsequent painting the car may need, if it's used on any panel work contact, and you should keep it well away. There will be other non silicone sealers which could be used. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Sorry to be a pain and keep this going, but I would forget about what roof bars you are going to use, and give very very serious consideration to having someone (who would you be thinking of?) actually drilling holes in your roof. IF you are prepared to allow someone to drill, are you going to be sure they will be drilling in the exact place they should be drilling, can accurately match one side to the other, are capable of removing and refitting the headlining before drilling etc. etc. If you still come to the decision that this is a road you are happy to go down, then you have to first research the availability of the correct (VAG I guess) roof rails - forget about the bars for the time being. You will need to ensure that the rails come with clear instructions regarding exactly where to drill etc. Of course Andy, this assumes yours doesn't have any visual fixing points showing on the outside of your roof. If it has, great. If it hasn't, then I would most certainly give this a good coat of thinking about before you even consider what make of bars you are going to use. It could be useful to others to know if your roof does show any visible outside fixing points. Perhaps you could let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, I don't know whether this is going to throw a spanner in the works, but the reason I asked if you had roof rails fitted was that I too got all enthusiastic about fitting roof rails and bars on our 2006 A3 Sportback. That was until I realised that fitting roof rails (if not already fitted) entailed drilling the roof! - well at least on the 2006 model year. It would be wise to check if yours has any built in anchor points front and rear for the longitudinal roof rails to which the Thule cross bars will attach. If not, decide whether you are prepared to hand the responsibility of (correctly- first time?) drilling holes in your roof. Probably well worth doing some homework before thinking about the roof bars. Of course, the quality and fitting of the roof rails become of paramount importance. Let's hope your model year is different, and that it has built-in securing points for the rails. It would be great if you could update us - do doubt useful information for other. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I recall there were some aftermarket rails which 'hooked' under the top of the door shuts, but I decided against this.

Hello James, I think you are making a wise choice with EBC as an alternative, if you don't want to use genuine VAG parts. I'm not sure if you are thinking of modifying the system to take larger brakes, but if not, you just need to pass the registration number to a couple of the on-line sellers and they will point you in the right direction in terms of the correct pads. As you probably know, EBC have a variety of pads to suit your driving style and requirements, and by what I recall, their website clearly explains the differences. As always, I recommend spending once and wisely. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, I very much admire your sentiments. Of course, you are heading for a substantial bill, so getting involved with garages may not be th best way out with this. As I see it, what you need is a competent enthusiast, so it may be worth looking up a local classic car club (appreciating this isn't a classic car, but...) and you will probably find someone there will be able to point you in a direction to find the right person to tackle this car for you. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Can we take it your car already has the front to back roof rails onto which you want to secure the rood bars? I don't think there is any doubt that Thurle are the quality you buy once and wisely. A good bit of logic for this safety critical job. Kind regards, Gareth.

Having just received our AA renewal and notice it's gone up by a fair amount ( the bank's discount no longer applies), I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for other breakdown cover. We have two cars which need cover - the oldest now being 15 years old - and I doubt if it's going to be economical to add breakdown to each insurance, so I'm looking for a blanket cover which would cover my wife and myself with whatever car we were in at the time. Recovery would be essential, since I wouldn't want the cars being at the mercy of garages outside of my area. It would be great to have some competitive recommendations and ideas of the costs to cover the above. Many thanks in anticipation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, When you say the engine is not getting hot, do you mean not overheating, or not getting up to temperature? if its not getting up to temperature then it would be wise to have the actual running temperature measured. For both, Sensors such as the coolant temperature sensor can cause the fan to run all the time if they become faulty or go open circuit, since the system goes into fail-safe and runs the fan as it would do if it was running over temperature. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, I think - but I am not sure- that the power steering is linked to the speed/revs, and the amount of assistance decreases as the speed increases and vice versa. Is this lack of power steering associated with any particular road speed or engine revs? I would agree with Steve regarding the influence of a failing battery, but I would have thought an original battery at 6 years old should still be serviceable. This assumption is based on the original battery still being with the car, and not having been swopped at some point of sale. Might be worth checking what labelling there is on the battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I would follow Steve's advice, but try to remain realistic with your expectations. Full service history may be a rarity on a 13 year old car, and certainly the absence of the odd ding will be. I would not get too hung up about a comprehensive service history on a car if that age, since many owners of cars say older than 8 years old will very often find a good local mechanic to maintain the car, and the lack of the old stamp in the book may be the trade off for having the car looked after as a cash job. Cars which have not been well cared for tend to show themselves as such, so you can often eliminate the ones which are not worth investing in a paid -for inspection. Simple first line check - are both tyres on the same axle same make? There are of course many many more items which give you pointers. AA or RAC inspections are fine, but you might also consider a local independent where you may get greater brand and model experience. Good luck in finding what you want. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, Sorry to hear about your problems. Stab in the dark! (couldn't resist that), but have a look at the flexible wiring harness which is visible when you open the hatchback. Carefully strip back the covering and examine the wires themselves. The wires become brittle as the hatch is opened and closed - particularly in the cold winter months, and bare wires can touch and cause issues such as this. Let us know if it's not and we will have another stab at it. Kind regards, Gareth.