Magnet

Thanks for coming back Kev. Pointless labouring this but I wasn't really referring to We By Any Car, but to valuations from valuation sites such as Parkers etc. OK, differences of opinions on the monetary value of extras on a 7 year old car, but logic would suggest that you take the current value of the car compare with its value when new and let's say it's now was 30%. But, I think you will find that the add-on value of the extras is never going to be worth 30% of what they cost new. I feel the haggling could be interesting, but whatever the 'discount' is going to be, it could be off an already inflated price. Of course Kev, as you say, they can take it or leave it so you hold the ace card, except they have the car you want. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev. I have to be careful not to convey the impression that I am being cynical about this - and if that is the impression then I apologise. Re. the price:- I think you have answered your own question with the value of this 7 year old vehicle by saying the same model and mileage but without the same amount of extras which cost £6K when new, is retailing at £4K less than the one you are interested in. 'Thimple' as the little animal standing on its hind legs would say - you are potentially paying £4000 extra to by 7 year old toys which reality are 'worthless' , but on a positive side do make the model more attractive. It would be your call whether this on cost is important to you, and my feeling it is when you opened your post by listing them. My maths may be questionable and doesn't take account of falling in love with something, and there isn't anything wrong with that. Valuation sites and extracting utine! Well they value vehicles on evidence of sales and insurance pay out values, and that's not to say the owner would part with it at that price or think it's worth more. I think we all value our vehicles at a higher price because we know them, but getting someone to actually write out a cheque at what we think they are worth is another issue. I really wish you well with this Kev, and I have a feeling your negotiations with the dealer are going to be interesting. All I can advise is not to lose track of the importance of the history of the car itself , it's independent assessment and the 'quality" of the guarantee you will be offered. Good luck with this, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, I've probably missed it, but I'm not sure what year this vehicle is. Retail value at a dealer ? Should be easily assessed via. On-line valuation services, and complimented by searching for similar vehicles being sold by other dealers. Part exchanging:- often a source of confusion since folks tend to get hung up about getting another £100 or so from another dealer, but are not too concerned that the vehicle they are buying is say £200 more at that dealer. In all of this, the only figure you need to compare with different dealers is the 'price to change', ie. How much you have to add to your car to buy the car you are interested in. Inflating retail prices and part exchange prices still comes back to that 'price to change'. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Apparently ( and you need to do your own research) Osram was at least one of the brands subject to faking - Philips?- hence my suggestion to go to Halfords where you would have some warranty against such things. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Interesting. Not sure why the previous owner would have changed just two glow plugs - a bit like changing 2 spark plugs rather than the set. If the two original glow plugs test OK then my money would be on injectors, and it would then be worth having a leak-back test done on all four. If it were me, I would by pass an independent in favour of goung straight to a local diesel specialist, particularly since normal practice is for the garage who you may take it to would probably drive it around to the diesel people and charge you for secondhand assessment, plus a bit understandably added on for their involvement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Sorry to hear of your problem. There is a common belief that fault codes are king, and if there isn't a code there isn't a problem. I must admit that code reading is not my sphere of experience, and I'm sure that it is indeed an essential tool in problem solving, but I have some concerns about the possibility of cause-and-effect being ignored when the diagnostics show up a fault on one component and that fault may be linked to a problem with another component. Anyway, opinions over! My hopefully postive path from here would be to ask if there was any associated smoke when the idle is erratic/ after cut out and restart? Dependent on your answer to this I might suggest a trip to a local diesel specialist who will probably test the injectors for you, since it is possible that this is where the answer lies. Take it the glow plugs have been checked. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, I think your mechanic's advice is sound, and it seems to be common knowledge that auction sites are awash with cheap replica bulbs which just do not last, and indeed I have read ( fact??) that there are even fakes of well respected brand names. You can of course take a chance and hope you get the service life you hope for, but a chance it might be. OK, Audi want £181 per bulb for this luxury car - possibly contributing to the reason why these cars are so expensive when new. Luxury doesn't come cheap! A positive alternative may be to try Halfords for example - they may be cheaper- but I doubt you will have anything more than a guarantee of 1year's service life - same as Audi I guess. If you do decide to buy your bulbs with them then personally, I would have them to fit them (forget about their fitting cost compared with your mechanic) so that you don't adversely affect your guarantee. Kind regards, Gareth.

No Kev, the dealer is not legally obliged to register a vehicle in their name. The complete V5 which the previous owner had would be handed to the dealer and the dealer or previous owners had to forward the small yellow (trade transfer of ownership ) slip off the V5 to DVLA. One possible reason for a dealer to register a car to themselves (where the car would then have another -short term owner- is that it masks out the previous keeper's details. I would think in this case all would be fine - but I would check its fine. I take I you have not had sight of the V5 , so bottom line is this vehicle could have been owned by Manchester or wherever Plod or any other organisation where it's had 1 careful owner but 100 careless drivers. You will appreciate that I am exaggerating a probably OK situation, but that would be my first port of call l before I worried too much about the toys on it. Not meant to be hatch Kev, just step back and do the homework before spending on an assessment. Good luck with your next move. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, Notice the car has one previous owner. Can we take it that owner is recorded on the V5 rather than the dealer having registered it in their name? The true story of this car (and equally essential to know as the service history) rests with contacting this owner. If the dealer refuses to let you have this detail prior to purchase - no confidentiality concerns since you will know it after you have bought it - then I would be tempted to walk away. Same suggestion if it has been registered to the dealer to mask the previous keepers details. Great idea to have an independent assessment of the car, and if it were me I would be considering using a trused Audi independent who obviously has specific brand and model experience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Trevor, I would not like you to pre judge the cause, based on my assumption. Obviuosly, no one can diagnose such a problem without actually assessing the car. Let's hope for a uncomplicated, reasonably priced and relatively economical outcome to this. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Trevor, First port of call is to consult the handbook and find out which fuse runs the reversing lights, and check that this hadn't blown. If it has, replace it with another of the same value. If that blows - take further advice. My guess is that the fuse hasn't blown and that the reversing light switch is probably at fault, but a guess that would be. It is possible/probable that the rear sensors are controlled via the reversing light switch. If it were mine, I would be looking up a local auto electrician and take it there rather than going through a third party garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, VAG are/were recommending Quantum oil, and I have always used this where it hasn't gone to Audi for servicing. It is available on line at very reasonable prices and I use their Longlife 3 as Steve says, but tend to change it every year even though the car is covering low mileages. No other reason than an annual oil and filter change is an inexpensive insurance. As I say, - easily available on the online auction site - generally with free delivery. I bought some last week, and it was literally here the following day- from Scotland, so I didn't have to go hunting around for best prices. Not sure what you intend to do about the equally important oil filter, but I only use Mann filters as an alternative to VAG. I would not entrust the choice to whoever is going to change it, since the quality of some aftermarket filters can be questionable. Genuine VAG are also often available on the online auction site at discount prices, so you can compare the costs of the two brands. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter Lee, How long has this poor running been going on for you to be be able to say the oil consumption has increased? Any smoke? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Matt. Interesting about the free MOTs for life bit ... "which isn't bad.. . Not that it applies to you now that you are going independent, but it might be worth reading Welsh Sue's posts on here somewhere. Fair do s as we say, whoever thought of that one at the dealers deserves a pay increase! Free lunches?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, I think you are very wise to consider having this changed now, and even wiser to consider doing this via. the best rather than the cheapest route. Your particular engine is a little out of my experience zone, but your main dealer quote does seem rather high to me - but could be competitive. It would probably be worth checking with a couple of other main dealers in a slightly bigger radius to get a feel for it, and I know some dealers have special offers on such things from time to time. As you say, cheap is not always the best , and in reality, I've never known it to be. This is certainly an engine critical part/s, and in my book it is essential to spend once and wisely, and particularly in respect of the parts that are fitted. Some may say "I had my cambelt done for £X (low)" but what quality parts were used? Personally I would not take chances and would opt for genuine Audi parts and as far as the water pump is concerned, most certainly VAG only - without exception. Do you know what make parts the independent are going to fit at their more competitive quote? Well worth checking. IF they are not using genuine VAG parts, then I would consider an alternative of Gates , but not using their water pumps. VAg parts can be available at discount (pm me if it helps) so there isn't really much point in using anything else. Changing the thermostat at the same time? Maybe worth thinking about if it lives more accessible when the belt assembly is changed, but I don't think these come cheap - unless they are the potentially unrealiable aftermarket ones. Someone else will problem advise. If it were mine, I would certainly renew the alternator/serpentine belt at the same time (Gates would be fine for that if necessary) since if this decides to part company it can tangle itself with pullies and possibly cause the timing belt to jump a couple of teeth. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I can only echo Steve's views and commiserations, and of course it is now evident that you have joined an increasing band of owners who are not only dissatisfied with their cars, but also the way VAG are treating them. It seems the final outcomes of the majority of complainants on here are unfortunately unknown, so I guess the forum members cannot offer you any more advice than has already been given. For me, as a simply interested- party in things Audi, I find it frustrating that this important topic on the forum does not seem to reach the owners that matter ( like yourself - the ones awaiting recall) before it's too late, and the deed is done. No criticism meant, but as I recall, you may be the only one we know of who had been actively chasing this update, rather than avoiding it, or giving it second thoughts. That in itself is proof positive that the although (adverse) publicity surrounding these recalls is getting through to some, it obviously isn't getting through to all. Not wishing to appear patronising, I must admire your brand loyalty, and your intention of returning to Audi. Many in your position (most -once bitten?) probably wouldn't give them the time of day, leave alone their money! If it were me Wayne, I think I would be investigating Fast Edd's positive advice and hopefully stick with the car you have known and loved, rather than parting with extra wedges of notes into VAG's pockets. It may be interesting to note that our local taxi owners are moving away from their long term affairs with their trusty Skoda s. If you want to know about makes and models to buy - or not buy- just look or enquire at the taxi ranks. Anyway Wayne, good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back on this Trudie - Surrey but applies to the Alps. Lesson :- never assume things to be what you think they are? Sorry Trudie, but I cannot help you, but perhaps someone will. Interesting to note that fitting winter tyres is a legal requirement, and in the UK it had become increasingly topical and talked about. Dare I ask - Brexit or no Brexit -how long before this legal requirement becomes applicable in the UK? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, "Drive shafts"? Wondered if that is what Gavin confirmed to you was the cause, or whether you just think that was the cause? All important to Jess to know before he starts spending his money. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Trudi, I must start off by saying that I'm certainly not going to be of much help to you with your question, but perhaps there is a chance that your pocket may think my comments are worth giving a coat of thinking about. To get to basics, who says you have to get winter tyres for this vehicle? I ask in my simply aging mind, since up to a few years ago no one mentioned fitting different tyres during the winter months - in the UK anyway. Now, cynical old me thinks this is a fad concocted by the tyre industry to extract money from your bank account. When you think about it, it would probably be worth looking up the statistics of the average snowfall and ice conditions in Surrey over the last 5 years, digest those, and think that we are already into February and the chances of snow will decrease anyway. If it were me I would simply continue with your current tyres (as I have always done over here in Wales where the weather can be worse) and enjoy the car - driving more carefully in adverse conditions as we should anyway - and keep your money in the bank. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sean, Its great to acquire some knowledge and I'm sure Paul's explanation make sure you have I clear in your mind - although .... of at least 7.2 volts? - learnt something new again, never realised that they were 'allowed' to rate the operating voltage as low as this - your wouldn't start a moped with voltage that low! Still.... If it were me Sean, I wouldn't over complicate this in my mind, and just follow good advice of quoting your registration number and leave the specialist suppliers determine which is the correct battery for your car. Some of them may suggest an alternative (more expensive) higher output battery which you could consider, but I would stand by my earlier advice and buy a good brand battery at the most competitive price from a company who you think offers you the best service - thimple! Some might suggest taking details and dimensions off your current battery. OK , but it depends on whether the person who fitted that one actually chose the correct one, or just the cheapest/smallest that would do the job at the time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Who's been servicing your car over the last 10 years then Sean? Blinking heck! Not at all surprised if it's been in there for at least 10 years. Bet you wil be getting this changed at least every two years from now on. Air filter 10 years old as well? Sorry only joking. I am arn't I? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sean, The type - code number - of the battery you will need should not be difficult to find if you simply contact one if the major on -line battery specialist such as Tayna, Battery Megastore etc. etc. and quote your registration number. Makes to go for? Although you generally get what you pay for, you can get well respected makes on line sometimes cheaper than lower quality ones bought locally. Personally, I like to spend once and hopefully wisely and go for makes such as Varta ( often fitted from new) or Bosch or perhaps Yuasa, but above all at least a 4 year warranty to make sure you don't end up with spending reasonable money on not so good makes. You could try the above ( no connection and there are others). I have just bought a Varta (blue top) battery from EuroBatt who operate on EBay as well, and who are Plymouth Battery co. (again no connection) . They do mail order with 'free' postage if you order on EBay. I would be careful on the postage charge since most will do free postage via. EBay sales but can charge if you order on the phone! Strange that. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm very much with Scott on this, but would suggest a double check (probably done though) of swopping No4 plug with one from another trouble free cylinder - appreciating you have used VAG coil plugs and leads which should not be at fault. The next test I would do is to find a friendly MOT station who would be prepared to carryout an emissions test and give you a diffinitive lambda reading. If that proves the O2 sensor is within range then perhaps you could look at getting tests done on No 4 injector incase it is getting over fuelled. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for the additional helpful information. If I'm interpreting the photo properly then I would say that the general surface water pattern, and particularly the scoring, is not what I would be expecting as normal wear on a car of this age and mileage. If it were mine, I would not be a happy bunny, and would be having a quiet word with Mr Sinclair? - where you bought it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the further information Thomas. As Steve Q often says- "they are a friendly bunch on here" and I too would like to think we are, but it's sometimes difficult to clarify things without coming over as being critical of what the poster is trying to do. I have a feeling this may be one such case, and I must apologise in advance if any if this isn't in line with your thinking, but here goes Thomas. Appreciating changing components such as coil packs, leads, etc can be considered good maintenance, it should be pointed out that the quality of such replacement parts is often very questionable, and runs the risk of introducing faults which were not there before. Depends on where you source your bits from, but experience shows its better not to fix it if it's not sure it's broken - unless you are replacing with genuine VAG components which of course you might have done, and that would be fine and only likely to affect your wallet. Your question - "Short to ground problem likely to be a broken wire...?" This and changing harnesses concerns, since it must be clear in the mind that a "short" is where a current feed wire's insulation etc. is damaged, and the wire then touches the earth-return bodywork - at which point the fuse in that curcuit should blow. Any wire which is broken would be an open curcuit not a short curcuit. If you have any intermittent issues in a curcuit where the fuse hasn't blown, it means you have an irregular supply or poor earth, and things like connector plugs etc come to mind -or of course the consistency of the supply is fine but the component is faulty. So back to your issues:- as I see it you have to establish why No.4 plug is oiling up - is it oil or unburnt/partially burnt fuel? . If it were mine, I would now be doing a basic compression test on this engine to establish if it's mechanically sound before chasing electronic problems. If it is good in that respect (and your replaced coil packs and leads are proved to be good) then it's possible - just possible- that the injector may be an issue. All of this is ifs, buts and maybes, and this is why I suggested you get this checked out at a good independent who can check things like O2sensors etc. etc. (even MOT emissions test would help). OK Thomas I well appreciate you want to sort this out yourself , but it could be a costly route, and as I said may even introduce issues you didn't have before! Buying expertise via. specialist equipment can provide you with useful knowledge and experience - don't dismiss it. "Won't rev over 5000rpm" . Can we take it this is at standstill rather than during driving? Hope all of this is taken in the spirit it is intended. Good luck in getting it sorted, Kind regards, Gareth.