Magnet

Hello Kirk, Impressive mileage, and as you say, they wear it well. Regarding oil :- I guess it depends on whether it's using any appreciable amount of oil or not, when using the recommended grade. Do you know what grade was used at the last oil change? If it was the recommended specification then I would suggest sticking with it. Give the engine its best chance by using only quality filters such as dealer part or perhaps Mann etc. I would not buy filters on price. Brakes:- Inspection and /or diagnostics should point you in the right direction re any brake issues. Again, having been there done it, I would only now go with dealer pads. OK a bit more expensive but these brakes are very good, but in my experience nowhere near as good with factor pads. I think there were issues with a valve in the ABS unit causing the traction control light to come on. You should be able to googe that. Faulty-part ( about half of ABS unit) was available from VAG. Timing belt :- always good insurance to change it and the tensioners etc. Yes, boring! but again dealer part only for this critical application in my book. As an exception you could use Gates, but that would be my only alternative choice. Changing water pump? If you do avoid any factor make. Believe VAG actual do/did reconditioned pumps at a fairly reasonable price. Hope some of this helps. Good lick with it.

I really do admire the "it's nothing much" attitude to this, and I think it's great that the VW and Audi specialists are able to say there isn't anything amiss with the pistons and bottom end by manually spinning the crankshaft ( and one guesses, banging the pistons into the bent valves). Nice. You mention 20 mph so it's unlikely that there would be much internal damage. I just wonder if you have thought about - say 2000rpm. ,which equals about 33 revolutions per second. The bottom end of this engine would have continued to have been "driven" by the gearbox even after the belt had snapped. How many seconds would you think the previous owner would have taken to realise something had gone wrong and brake to a halt. However many you would guess it is, just multiply that be 33 and you will have an idea of how many times the pistons came in contact with the valves. Let's say his reactions were fairly good - 10 secs. = over 300 times! - and that is without your specialists cranking it over again! I really hope all works out fine for you, and you will be pleased with the end result and the long term service the car will give you. Good luck.

Well, car sales doesn't do this anymore, so back to square one. Wondered if anyone might have some other ideas. Many thanks, Magnet.

I'm struggling a bit here as well. Could you confirm you have bought ( well swopped to!) a 2003 Audi A3 which you knew had snapped its timing belt and obviously damaged its engine? If so apart, from what you have already suggested - consider the possibility of slightly? if you are lucky - bent conrods where the pistons have contacted the valves as well as of course the piston damage itself. Car beyond economical repair ? Least damage limitation if I was stuck with it would be to try to find another engine, but of course you would need to renew the cambelt, tensioners and possibly water pump on that one to ensure that one doesn't get blown. Can only wish you good luck with your decision.

Hello Peter, Interesting! I guess this not a simple case of a misconstrued digit in the two different VIN - that would be too simple. How far out are these numbers? Of course, however close or otherwise, they should not be different. I would have thought the port of call would be to establish the build history/specification for both numbers - VAG might help? Having got that it should be an easier task to establish exactly what you have there. If two-into-one then at least you will have a better idea. If the French authorities want you to re/over stamp the bulkhead VIN then I would want this in writing if it were me, otherwise you might be later accused of ringing the car! - second time around for it?

Thanks James. Tried this one and most variants of it without success! I very much appreciate you pointing me to this particular link and no personal criticism meant, but this one is not very well written (clearly). Others are specific as to which key goes in ignition etc. i have had partial success with other links, since the remote will now start the car, so it is indeed useable as a second key. It won't remotely lock or unlock, but will of course manually lock/unlock, so is useable. It's now a trip to the local long established car sales who I understand knows their way around these things, either by this sort of thing or by actual computer programmes. Will keep you posted. Many thanks again. Magnet.

Now sold.

Hello, We have the original two remotes which came with the 2006 A3 1.6 but one of them stopped working a couple of years ago. Done the obvious bit of replacing the battery, but this hasn't sorted it. Knowing that with some cars you can turn the defunct key to ingintion on about 5 times and then press lock or unlock and the key gets coded again. Tried this but again no joy. Wondered if anyone knew if there is a DIY method of recoding this original and genuine remote. Many thanks, Magnet.

Hello, I have a full set of black genuine Audi floor mats for the A3 - unused and believed 2003 to 2008 (maybe before and after as well?) but no doubt someone will clarify when I check the part number on the Audi label. Dimensions can be given if there is any doubt. £20 plus p&p

Many thanks James. That's my feeling too - too important not to be there. Now the question is where is this oil pressure switch on the 1.6 engine? Colour of connector plug to aid identification? If I can find it and take it off then I can check if it's on closed curcuit even when not pressured. Kind regards, Magnet.

Hello, New to Audi ownership. We now have our daughter's 1.6 Sportback Special Edition (basic) which she has had from new and which has the 1.6 engine - now having done 134k miles. It does not show a low oil pressure warning light with the ignition turned on, although it shows all other warning lights - all of which go off on start up, as they should. According to the handbook, the oil-can symbol oil pressure warning light should be in the centre display between the rev. counter and the speedometer, and to right of the low petrol (pump symbol) level warning light - which works. The oil can light does not come on when the ignition is switched on as I say, and discovered when I did an oil change, when I always look to make sure the oil pressure warning light goes out on initial start up after an oil change. Silly question perhaps, but does the Special Edition ( basic) actually have an oil pressure warning light? ( I would have thought so, but...) our daughter can't remember whether the light came on on switch on at any time. So if it was fitted and now doesn't work - faulty oil pressure switch? If so, it would be great if someone could point me to exactly where it is on this engine. This fault does confuse me a bit since I would have thought this would have been fail-safe and the light would stay on with a faulty switch, but.... Hope someone can offer experienced advice. Kind regards, Magnet.