Magnet

Hello Lee, I’m sorry no one has replied to your post. As frustrating as this must be, I think that if this fell within the experience bank of those who try to help out on here, then forum members would take their time to respond. If I had an answer I would tell you, but I don’t, and to be honest, I don’t really have an answer to your last-line question either, but would support the forum principle that advice is generally given freely by folks who give their time and share their knowledge without any charge - and very often without any acknowledgement. Apologies Lee. Let’s hope your nudge prompts someone to help you out. Kind regards, Gareth. There you go - Mark has kindly come along while I was replying, so perhaps you could let us know whether his assistance has been of any benefit to you.

It’s not just me then Cliff. I have already brought this to the attention of Trevor who is one of the admin. folks, but the posts are still there. Just noticed that there is also what appears to be a similar advertising header - at least on my system. Surely these posts can’t be linked to some advertising sponsorship - can they!!? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Side lights or headlights? Or most unusual, both? Guess you have checked fuses and earths. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dell, Have you tried wanted adverts in publications such as ‘Modern Classics’, Classic Car Weekly, Classic Car Buyer - the list goes on? Also worth a try at Partsfinder, or similar online systems which link into breakers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dell, Can we take it that you have the car insured on a classic car policy on an agree value, limited mileage policy, and the need for the (independent?) valuation is dictated by a need to agree the value with the insurers/brokers? If so, as a matter of interest, who are the brokers/insurers? - since many (most) will accept a valuation form completed by the owner, and supported by photographs, if the valuation is under a ball park figure of £20K. Are the brokers questioning your valuation, and therefore asking for an independent valuation? I’m a little out of touch with the escalating values of some of these ‘modern classics’, but my stab at it is that your Audi dealer’s (salesman?) valuation of £7 to £8 is rather high - but I could well be wrong, and often am! I appreciate you have spent almost that amount on the car, but the hard fact is that car renovation is invariably a loss making venture, so your expenditure cannot be taken as a marker point for its valuation. A couple of avenues for you - if your broker is insisting on an independent valuation, is to seek out another broker who will accept a self valuation. Failing that, I would be approaching a couple of your regional (all makes) Classic Car Club’s and asking there if anyone would provide you with an independent valuation. Might also be worth looking at magazines such as ’Modern Classics’ who may well list condition 1,2 and 3 valuations for a variety of marques and models. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Femi, Are you talking about the tyres mentioned n the last post? If so, the poster mentions that they were manufactured in 2016 or 2017. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Keith, 225 is a reasonable width to somewhat compensate for the 40 profile which could be considered low. The acid test is of course, you were able to fully assess the ride comfort before committing. Incidentally - run flats or not? Run flats now seem to becoming the norm. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello George, I take it you are trying to buy secondhand -possibly a no longer available part? If secondhand, you could try advertising your Want on breaker’s systems such as Partsfinder (there are others) whereby your requirements get relayed to all participating breakers, who then contact you if they have the part you want. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ozgur, Worth Googling this fault code while you wait for answers - should help you better understand what’s probably going on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rebecca, Getting there very quietly:- Annual mileage? (MOT certs./online system will tell you). Do the tyres wear evenly across the width of the thread? Make/s of tyres used - and size would be useful? Typical journeys made? - small mileages around towns, motorways, typical speeds, last-minute braking or gentle braking? Occasional rapid acceleration or not, enthusiastic driving around corners or not? You seem to indicate that fronts are wearing quicker than rears - correct? If so, how long do rears wear? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rebecca, Thanks for asking the question, but from the absolute minimum of information you give us, I think it’s going to be impossible to get meaningful replies. Trying to introduce a bit of humour into this, it might be worth visiting the doctor if you have an appetite for eating tyres! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello?, Since the original poster hasn’t returned to the forum since a week after he joined over 5 years ago, I think it’s unlikely that you will get any response from him via. your post. Worth sending him a PM ?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Connor, If this were mine, I would simply be booking it in at the dealer and getting it sorted. You really shouldn’t have to concern yourself with why it isn’t working, and any degree of ‘DIY fiddling’ may just result in affecting your warranty. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hubert, Is this 2017 car still under warranty? If so, no need to worry about why, just worry about getting the problem sorted. If it’s a very early 2017 vehicle then it’s barely out of warranty, and some degree of flexibility may exist if it has an acceptable service history - so time is of the essence. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, By what I can make out, the Vorsprung edition of the Q3 is only available with wheels of 20 inch diameter minimum (in caps), with options of increasing theses diameters to 21 or even 22 inch - like farm cart wheels. It sounds to me that you are interested in a comfortable ride over potholes rather than road holding capabilities, and if so, the all important factor is the tyre profile (the height of the tyre wall rubber from road to rim). If this is if the order of 40 profile or less then the ride is going to be firm, unless the tyres are very wide - profile = % of width. Another factor in the comfort stakes is whether run-flat tyres are fitted as standard, as they often are now, since the sidewall will be firmer and less flexible. In theory, the larger the wheel and tyre diameter, the less affect will be felt at a pothole, since the larger dia. wheel will roll over the pothole rather than into it. Apps. are fine, but you cannot beat a face to face discussion and assessment of a test vehicle with the dealer. That would be my move - armed with some of the above. Let us know how you get on, and what the tyres sizes and types are on the 20 inch wheels. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, I think it’s great that you have taken your time and interest to try to explain and help the original poster. The sad thing is that he has not revisited the forum since the day he first joined! Why do people do this? Anyway, from your point of view, let’s trust the time you’ve taken to share your experience will be of help to someone else. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jeffo?, Welcome to the forum. As I said in my post of 13th August 2017 - ‘I would be aware of the often used OEM term’. It is widely used in the marketplace of aftermarket supplies. I really don’t think it’s a question of whether to use ‘aftermarket’ or insist on ‘OEM aftermarket’ rather than genuine dealer parts. In my experience you just as well ignore the significance of OEM if buying in the aftermarket quarter since it is often misused. Through bad experiences such as yours, I have developed my own buying restrictions if buying aftermarket - they aren’t all bad, but you build up respect for certain brands and disrespect for others. Main dealer parts and higher prices? You are buying quality for your extra outlay and as you have found out, buying cheap once, can mean buying again. We are fortunate here since we can buy genuine Audi parts at discount, so we have a better change of buying quality at competitive prices. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Many thanks for joining and posting, but I think it’s worth asking the Forum Admin to consider not allowing new contributions to threads which have not been responded to for say over a year. Problem is that folks read - and may even attempt to post replies - in relation to the first (long outdated) post without noticing the dates.

Many thanks Tom, I’m currently with them, but they don’t cover vehicles over 16 years old - OK last year but not this year! Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondering if forum members would be able to recommend reliable breakdown cover options based on the following requirements:- Husband and wife driving either of two cars - oldest of which is 17 years old. Nationwide recovery home is essential if cannot be fixed at the roadside. Don’t really need Homestart or European cover, or onward travel. Don’t want to add cover to individual car insurances, since unlikely to be economic. Don’t want to pay and reclaim or ideally pay an excess on a claim. Don’t really want to pay per month - want one off annual premium. Trusting forum members can share their experience. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, From the school of simple things first:- Replace the battery with a quality make one such as Duracell etc. Worth the small investment. Yes, I know Audi has replaced it, so...., but satisfy yourself from a known starting point. Surprising how many use Poundland’s best! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Damien, ’......a lot of models are?’ Are what? S line:- Please check with others on here, and on-line, but I think S Line represents ‘Sports Line’. Don’t forget to respect wheel sizes (which influences tyre profiles) and of course whether run-flat tyres are fitted - which would not enhance your quest for a more comfortable ride. Don’t quote me, but I believe the wheels used for run-flat tyres will dictate that only run-flat can be fitted when tyres need changing, so worth confirming/refuting. Kind regards, Gareth.

Unfortunately Patrick, David joined and last visited the forum on the same day! Might be worth sending him a PM? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Jez. I you don’t mind buying new, it would be worth calling to your nearest dealer, and they should be able to help you to at least identity the part name, and advise whether it’s a stand alone item, or part of a larger section of trim. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Air suspension I guess ? If so - culprits could be level sensor, air leak, or failing compressor piston seal - in no particular order. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Damien, I would avoid anything which was built to ‘sports specification’, and try to buy a car with small wheels and high profile tyres - e.g. no less than 50 profile. Also avoid run-flat tyres. Kind regards, Gareth.