Magnet

Hello Andrew, I would help if you gave us all the necessary information you have from the outset.

Try car breaker link websites such Partsfinder - there are more.

Disappointing that Alex is re-visiting the forum, but is not able to react to advice given.

Thanks Avinash, Could you help us by letting us know where you have searched to date. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Whatever component within the clutch assembly is at fault, it obviously means gearbox out to find the offender, be it from the release bearing/ concentric clutch, to the DM flywheel - or pressure plate or driven plate in between - all won’t be revealed until it is disassembled. Regrettably, but to be expected, it would not make sense just to renew the offending part, so a full assembly sounds ominous. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I would advise only using quality parts - e.g. LUK, although aftermarket DMFs can be difficult to find as aftermarket on some models. Keep your fingers crossed it’s not a main-dealer-only part on yours.

Did you get anywhere with this after Alex?

That is strange Chris, since the screw goes into the (Audi) hub, so the correctly ordered Audi screw should fit - irrespective of the brake disc supplier. Are the threads serviceable? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, I take it you are aware that you can refit this and tighten the wheel to the correct torque until you are able to order a new countersunk retaining screw on Tuesday. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. perhaps you could give us a more precise location within the United Kingdom.

Hello, Although we are a friendly and helpful bunch on here, we do automatically take it that new members joining to ask a question, will at least take the trouble to fill in their profile properly. Could you please do that for us?

Level sensors are prone to sticking.

Thanks Simon, Could you stick a price on this to save any messing about. Good luck with finding a good home for the kit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for clarifying Steve, I thought I’d seen reference to this (duplicated?) thread before. Bless you if you are learning from me! The pupil will only be as good as the tutor - so that’s not saying much! Take care, and good luck to Wendy with her battery check. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Wendy, Commute should be adequate to maintain the battery. Cheap option first - as said, get the battery efficiency checked.

Any update for us Anderson?

Hello Wendy, Whoever suggested ‘battery’ ( who was it?) has come up with a good call. One of the first systems to shut down as the battery’s efficiency declines, is the stop/start function - good news to me, since this is one of the most engineeringly averse systems to be designed! Take the car on a 20 mile run to ensure it has a reasonable amount of charge, and drive it along to one of Halford’s stores, and ask them to check the battery’s efficiency for you -and the alternator while you are there. If it tests as substandard, then please come back to us before agreeing to buy a battery from them. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. what is your average journey - distance and frequency wise?

As I suggested then Will -?

Yes.

Hello Alex, I believe it should lock. Possible cause - sticky solenoid plunger which moves to lock the cap. Open the flap, and look to the side of the inside recess to locate the plunger, then give it a squirt of WD40. Alternatively, you may need to remove the boot inner side covering and attack/ replace it from there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Any good reason why you cannot make your request on a person-to-person basis with the Parts. Dept. representative via. a walk in visit?

Hello Anderson, Opinions will vary greatly - from spending extra on Audi pads since your labour is going to be free, to any of the ones you have mentioned, and many more. I certainly would not use Mintex based on my experience of last using them on a Rover Cabriolet with rapid wear despite new calipers. Once one of the most respected brands, but now…??? You mentioned Pagid, so I wonder if you are looking at ECP as a supplier-? I seldom use them for parts, and prefer to use Parts in Motion, and some other EBay suppliers who have given me competitive prices on quality brands, and overall great service. Worth trying P in M. I’m currently ‘experimenting’ with Brembo pads and discs on a family member’s non - Audi to good effect, so I currently favour those. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Do you have a wind-back tool for the rears?

Thanks for joining Anderson, Have you ever renewed discs and pads before, and on a car equipped with an electronic handbrake - which I take it yours has? If not, do not attempt it, but entrust the job to your trusted local garage (which just cost you substantially less than the main dealer quote). What brands of discs and pads are you considering? Kind regards, Gareth.

Who, at the dealership did you ask Jay? Incidentally it’s not a ‘Build list’ you are after, it’s a print out of the ‘Build Record’. Naughty boy! - to the back of the class, for not reading the question and answer properly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Fi, Yes, Kent, so no lead there on why the subframe is rusting ( as is not too unusual). Guess it depends on how long it’s been ‘gone North’ as we used to say in the Rugby world! Are you having to travel far to see it? If so, if the service history evidence comes to you and you are happy with it, I would suggest you Google a recommended Audi independent in the sale area and arrange for paid-for inspection before travelling. Should have mentioned that it’s worth enquiring about remaining tyre tread on all wheels. Should be relatively even on all four on 4 wheel drive. Good luck, Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Fi, If those are the first two characters of a personalised number, then unfortunately it will not help. Knowing where it has mainly operated in can help to determine the likely adverse effect of high usage of winter salt in some areas of the U.K. If by chance GC is its ‘returned to’ registration, I think that would have been from the S.E. - but that is from memory, which is a bit chancy! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Natasha, A consumption of 1 pint every 200/250 miles is certainly on the excessive side of excessive, and at that consumption you would expect to see blue smoke from the exhaust when you rev. the engine. Do you? Also, are you aware of any oil leaking externally? Sorry about all the additional questions, but has its consumption changed during your ownership? What grade oil do you use, and has it had an history of sound servicing, before and since you have owned it? Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.