Magnet

Thanks Brett, but as previous notified - the car has been sold, so everything else is now irrelevant.

Hello Mark, Looks like the leak is coming from the cover bolt to the top of your photo. There is usually a neoprene washer under this. My course of action would be to use brake cleaner to clean everything up on the cover to be better able confirm the leak site. If confirmed to be from there, I would be tempted to buy one from VAG for this application. Are you going to DIY this? Kind regards, Gareth.

Congratulations Branagh, you have just won the prize for shortest written post. We do not charge by the word!

Hello James, If it were mine, I would be carefully measuring the diameter of the hole and searching for a suitable (tight fitting) plastic plug, and temporarily blank off the hole to see what happens. Take care that (1) the plug is a tight - ideally tapered fit - to ensure there is no chance of it entering the engine. (2) It can be removed without too much fuss. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on James. Kind regards, Gareth.

So, have you got a quote from Parts in Motion yet?

Dennis - bless him- ‘will definitely let you know how I get on’! Regrettably, never did.

Hello John, I do feel for you. In your situation, I think it would be a ‘good investment’ to spend an hour’s labour with a trusted local garage, with a view to better sourcing the site/s of the leak. Kind regards, Gareth.

Worth taking note of a current thread on this issue. Please search.

You still don’t tell us whether it is possible to ‘trickle’ fuel in by barely opening the nozzle lever -or not. You don’t tell us whether you have inspected the fuel filler breather pipe as suggested - or not!

Possible level sensor issue??

Pleasure Peter, I could be wrong, but I don’t think it was until 2015 ish that the recording system became computerised, so it’s unlikely that you will get anything until the car would have been 13 years old - previous history was most likely retained in a stamped-up service book. Having said that, anything is worth a try. Perhaps you could keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Peter, Access to VAG computerised service history is via. dealers or authorised persons only - not private individuals.

Register your want on on-line car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder ( there are others as well). Also EBay International. Please let us know how you get on.

Hello Peter, Can your friend go back to the seller on the off chance they still have that detailed history somewhere? If you don’t ask, you don’t know! It’s worth going to see your nearest Audi dealer ( armed with your V5) and enquire whether there is any recent computerised service history on the Audi database. If both of these draw blanks, then I guess you just have to do a comprehensive service on it now, and continue to record its history under your ownership. Please let us know how you get on Peter. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, So you have already replaced the seal once ( in recent past?) and it still leaks?? If so, if the new seal used was of a reputable brand, then it’s probable that the rear main bearing is worn to an extent that allows to crankshaft to whip slightly and keep wearing the seal. Kind regards, Gareth.

Where have you tried so far David?

Dealer or private sale Will? If the latter, my angle on any private sale is don’t get interested in purchasing any vehicle from anyone, unless it has a V5 registered to the owner at the address you are viewing it at. Length of ownership would also be important to me. It could end in tears. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m closing this thread due to the OP’s disrespectful attitude.

Couldn’t agree more. Master Sport?? Always, just always, ‘invest’ in quality parts at most competitive prices.

What make of parts are you intending to buy from Autodoc?

Try Parts in Motion (Exeter) website. Why Autodoc with postage charges?

Thanks Matthew, Go to LLL Parts website, and you should be able to identify it probably get a part number. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.

Take the car on at least a 10 mile run, then without switching the engine off, get an assistant to increase the revs. and hold it at a steady 2000rpm for 2 mins, while you observe the exhaust smoke - then report back.

Thanks Shakinna, No, I cannot offer you any such guarantee. What I would suggest you do is to ‘rig up’ your original switch - not connected into the gearbox, but with cables connected, and do the same test as you did with the new one, and compare the amount of travel necessary to get the reverse lights to work - if they do. An easier way to check it would be with a multimeter set on ohms and just check for continuity when the plunger is depressed. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, It sounds like the bit in the gearbox which activates the switch plunger isn’t moving the plunger sufficiently. Aftermarket switch? Kind regards, Gareth.