Magnet

I read that somewhere too, but in my experience - no. Probably written by someone with some modules they want to sell! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Welcome and many thanks for joining. Hope you have better luck than Paddy, who must have been too affected by all of this to even acknowledge - leave alone offer thanks for the advice given! This advice will still stand for your situation. ‘..I have no response from any of the sensors…’ What response are you looking for James? My take on this ( if you have the same symptoms as Paddy) is that one or more of the sensors are at fault. Module failures are much much rarer. Module is usually located in the boot side - probably driver side. I think you will need 5 mins with the diagnostic to indenting the culprit sensor. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh sorry Matt. Been back a while, but the forgetory had cut in. Will be back to you shortly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jean, Regrettably, don’t think you are giving us enough in-depth detail to be able to comment. I would strongly suggest that if your son is dissatisfied with the service he is getting, then it would be in his best interest to find another recommended garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gina, Welcome and thanks for joining. The brake lights sometimes have two bulbs in them . One can fail, but you still have a brake light. Test would be to get an assistant to press the brake pedal when it’s dark while you assess the light intensity on both rear lights. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, You are simply repeating the question to which Steve has already replied. When you say the engine is not turning on (over?) are you trying this with the gear in neutral?

Many thanks Nigel, Probably not bought from a main dealer due to age of vehicle -? I think what you have suffered from is cheapest repair option. Although I understand where you are coming from in respect of ‘always fit in pairs’ ( discs and pads), I don’t necessarily think this is always necessary - proviso:- the disc surfaces are reasonably free from scoring, and will remain within thickness tolerance through the life of the new set of pads, and are not suffering from vibration on braking. The latter may actually be introduced on fitting new discs. In your case, there is absolutely no doubt that the discs are totally shot, and your principle should have applied without question. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies for my confusion in my old age, but can someone perhaps explain how this has been marked as a solution - and by whom?

Welcome David, Cliff raises a good point, so let’s have some clarification - do your reversing sensors work? If so the switch should be serviceable. Perhaps you could let us know before we move on to more complex checks. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Can see you have revisited the forum. Do you intend to fill in the detail or not?

Hello William, My hearing is poor, so unfortunately the recording doesn’t do anything for me. Suggestion:- remove the auxiliary belt when cold and test again. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Julie, Welcome and thanks for joining. What is the capacity (cc) of your engine, and what has been the service history of the car during your ownership - from new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Michelle, This is starting to reveal itself as a possible multi-leak situation, and not necessarily restricted to the boot, by the sound of it. As such, I think its resolution requires a methodical approach, by trying to eliminate each possible site in turn. Unfortunately it’s going to entail first removing carpeting trim from the boot sides etc. and checking and double checking that the boot lid can be quickly opened via the key once the lid is closed. The reason for that is that you now need to find a small agile assistant who is prepared to get into the boot, - armed with a light - once you are equipped with a hose. Before going any further, do you feel this is within your capabilities? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michelle, So does the car normally live its life outside, or is it normally garaged? Is the inside of the car dry? Possibly pessimistic, but I think you are onto a hiding-for-nothing to be returning the car back to the seller. If it were mine, I would now be adopting a DIY detective approach to finding the leak site/s. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michelle, and thanks for joining. Assuming the car is parked outside-? If so - One question:- Do you get water ingress simply when it’s raining and the car is parked and not in use? Is the water ingress worse when actually driven under road-wet conditions? Kind regards, Gareth.

So back to the question:- Do you know the camshaft was actually turning when you had the zero compression values? I guess the answer is no - ? Heavy carbon build up on some valves-? I’d be considering the likelihood of oil burning on that/those cylinders, suggesting bore or ring wear.

Well fair do’s to you - as we say in these parts:- You have won the major prize for the greatest lack of detail of any post within the last year! Why?? No name, no model, no year, no location. Oh, and no Please! Perhaps we can ask you a question - how are we supposed to help you - whoever you are?? You aren’t AI by any chance? No highly unlikely.

Was the camshaft actually turning when you carried out your compression test? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Kevin, Sounds a good idea to keep giving it a coat of thinking about! No, wasn’t an Audi. If you Google ‘Winterbourne’s Austin Sixteen’ it will give you a flavour of the major one of a few over the many decades. Good luck with whatever you decide with the Audi - for me, it would be look after it, attempt to maintain its current condition, and enjoy it for what it is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Welcome, thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. I guess your quote is from an Audi dealer-? You may well find that this is a main dealer part only, but well worth a search to find what is what. I would start with EBay, if only to find the most used term for these, and potentially view used ones, or maybe even new ones - often from Continental suppliers. This is a good place to do your homework, and hopefully point you to aftermarket availability or not. If you are lucky, and they are available via. aftermarket suppliers then you will obviously be on to a much better deal. You might then find U.K. supplier listings, and Incase it helps, I’ve used Parts in Motion to good effect. You will also find Autodoc so again worth a try there. If it turns out these are main dealer parts only, then you could try Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors - once Cardiff Audi) they have been known to give a bit of discount and do mail order. Please come back to us if you find an aftermarket source and we can advise further on reputable brands. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, A local long standing used car sales always used to say - some many years ago - he would only sell Hyundai and Kia if he could get enough of them. That was when they were cheap. Nothing cheap now! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Welcome and thanks for joining. Sorry to be a pain but I’m a little confused by ‘…wearing on the inner sidewalls..’ and ‘tyre wear across the tread is even all across…’. Can I take it your tyres are indeed wearing on the inner edges of the tread? If they are indeed wearing in this way then there is either suspension wear, or the alignment isn’t actually correct. If there is suspension wear then you cannot reasonably check the alignment. My experience of wheel alignment points me to having confidence in the ability of the equipment used to check to alignment, but often little confidence in the operator’s ability to use it successfully. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really sorry to hear of your misfortune Steve, but it seems ‘an ill wind….’. It sounds as if all will be well in the end, and that’s the main thing. Interesting to read about Skoda rather than Audi, if only because virtually all cabs around here were Skoda going back around 10 years. I didn’t realise Skoda parts prices were going to be that much cheaper than Audi, but I used to get all my Audi parts at good prices from a Skoda dealer up the NE, until the supply dried up. It seemed VAG wanted to charge them 2 arms and 2 legs for the computer cross reference listings - making it totally uneconomic! Those who have stuck with VAG for cabs around here, seem to now favour Seat. Has Seat become the cheapest brand in the VAG range? Hope it all works out for you Steve. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

You are welcome Nolan. We are all different, but to me, it would be of primary importance to me to do these preliminary checks, before getting further involve. Audi Approved is fine, but isn’t an absolute guarantee of quality. Your call of course. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, What is the coolant temperature gauge reading after a few miles of running? Kind regards, Gareth.