Magnet

So what was Tanya’s Exide quote, and how does it compare with your Yuasa quotes? Using the same code as on your current battery?? Not sure I would fully understand that, since the ‘intelligent’ system would treat it as it does with your current ailing battery. Confirmation/ true story/ quote lies with a local independent. Perhaps you could let us know on the above Tony. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Josh, Have you tried Aliexpres? You will probably have to wait a couple of weeks for delivery, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bel, ( the original poster). Did you resolve the issue after? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tony, You appear to have done your homework, and you are wise to factor in the coding charge. Two remaining questions to complete the homework:- Have you checked the coding charge with a local independent? Have you e-mailed your registration number direct to Tayna Batteries and asked then for a quote for an Exide battery to the same spec. as your OE battery? Kind regards, Gareth,

I think you would be doing yourself a favour if you searched EBay for a (Haynes?) workshop manual - which should be available for a car of that age.

Hello Gary, The original poster posted and appears never to have returned to the forum. You could try sending him a PM in the hope that he is still using the same e-mail address. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Where are you getting your Yuasa quote from, how many years warranty do you get, and any reason for deciding on Yuasa rather than the OE Exide? Although your price sounds competitive, have you had a quote on an Exide from Tayna Batteries? I’ve bought a couple of competitively priced Exide batteries from them to good effect in recent months. ( no connection with this company). Almost certain it will need coding. Kind regards, Gareth.

Which one are you looking for in the photo - could you mark it? Would it be possible to canalise another hose of same dia. from another manufacturer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Cindy, Have you checked availability with local and on-line motor factors? Kind regards, Gareth.

Not sure what refits to where? Did you just remove the broken section out of the rubber sleeved T piece, and push the existing (slightly stretched section) back into the rubber sleeve? Kind regards, Gareth.

What are you trying to tell us Ronald? Is this to support a theory that the odometer is correct, but the car was fitted with a refurbished gearbox which had covered a higher mileage -? You haven’t said when you bought it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Malcolm, To summarise:- For belted engines, the rule of thumb was to renew belt assemblies at c75K miles or 5 years - whichever comes first. (The last 3 words being of significance). It now seems that not only have VAG removed this time limit, but increased the mileage limit to c135K, so you can choose whichever camp suits your thinking. By the previous recommendation, you would be renewing the belt assembly this year at its 5th anniversary. As mentioned to Deborah, it’s well worth renewing the auxiliary belt at the same time as the cambelt. Please come back to us if things aren’t clear enough to allow you to make a decision. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It would be worthwhile checking actual ‘new’ mileage recommendation with a couple of main dealers, since I’m going from memory - which isn’t as reliable as it used to be!

Your choice I guess, but it appears it has been subjected to some form of ‘mileage correction’ at some time, if the infirmation can be substantiated. Two things to consider:- The car will have a lower value due it it’s higher mileage. The car shouldn’t be resold with any indication that the odometer mileage is correct, so this will obviously limit its selling appeal, and again devaluate it. As I see it, you will have the option to reject the car within 30 days and to receive a full refund. Two things that remain unclear from your original post:- When did you actually buy it? What diagnostic system have you used that provides you with the data in your opening post? Kind regards, Gareth.

So have you yet attempted to get a service print out via. an Audi specialist? I did mention the possibility of a replacement ECU having been fitted. Sorry to be make a suggestion of bad news, but it looks like the reading on your odometer does not represent the distance this car has covered.

Hello Andy, One thing at might (in caps) aid your case is if it has full Audi service history. Does it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Malcolm, Have a look, at today’s latest posts against a thread by Deborah. ‘…. Struggles on initial start up.. ‘ or similar wording. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Alex, and thanks for joining. It appears that apart from the Goodyear, the rest seem to be a cocktail of budget tyres, which you might find have varying grip in wet/ adverse conditions. Recommended brands? I think you are going to have as many different recommendations as you get replies. For what it’s worth, I have generally stuck with Michelin which I have found give me more miles/£1, but I’m sure you will have other recommendations. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for joining and posting. For me to get this in my mind, the car is now around 7 years old, so 4 years out of warranty. The accelerator pedal snapped and Southend Audi? - or another dealer? wants to charge £300 to repair the car, and you think this should be covered by warranty, although that expired 4 years ago. This is just a personal view, but I think this is an unreasonable expectation ( if the above facts are as I make out from the details you give us), and again, it could be me, but £300 repair cost doesn’t surprise for Audi, and the model you have. You may find an independent maybe a bit cheaper for you, so worth an ask. Although this forum has no reason to defend Audi, or any of its dealers - based on what you tell us, regrettably, I cannot support your view ‘….I cannot believe the poor level of service they are demonstrating’. If the other Mods, or Admin. feel my response is too harsh, then obviously I’m very happy to withdraw anything. Apologies Andy, that this is not the supporting response you were expecting. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Deborah, This car is obviously going to be woken up! From 4K miles a year to over 20K. Based on this, personally I wouldn’t be leaving this for a year and another 20k, but budgeting to get it done within half that mileage. Sorry, I assumed it was going to have a quiet life - shows where assumptions go wrong! It would be well worth getting alternative quotes, even from main dealers, who sometimes have offers on such expensive jobs. Be prepared for them to inform you it doesn’t need changing. Also worth trying other trusted independents. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Sharad, 45 days wait doesn’t put Audi in good light. Have you tried other main dealers within a sensible travelling distance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steven, Is the boot water in contact with any electrical junction boxes etc. or wiring? If so, this needs to be mopped up, all electrical components carefully dried with a hair dryer, before spraying with contact cleaner. It would also be worth having the battery efficiency checked, before engaging in any more expensive diagnostics. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Steven. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It is obviously desirable to fix the source of your leaks - usually the air vents, but a forum search should colour in the detail for you.

Hello Robert, Welcome and thanks for joining. Could you explain ‘….plenty of battery power………..only winds over for a few seconds’ - the two things are confusing. Did your breakdown company give you an opinion on what the issue may be? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, As Steve says, you should find advice at any large local bodyshop. Just pay visits rather than e-mail or phone, and by doing it that way, you will get a feel of your confidence in them. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m very pleased it’s all worked out for you Deborah. Sounds good. Re. Cambelt- what did the the Audi independent advise? My rule of thumb has always been to change the belt and assembly every 75k miles, or 5 years - whichever comes first. So your car should be due for its second belt change next year, but doesn’t appear to have been changed at all yet. This might seem ‘over- servicing’ in the case of this car which seems to have averaged approx. 4K miles/an over its life, but low mileage use does present its own increased stresses, where cars are used on infrequent barely up to temperature short journeys. It seems VAG have now dispensed with their age limit, and are now recommending renewing the belt only when the vehicle reaches 135?k - or similar figure, so according to that logic, your belt will not need changing until it’s over 30 years old in in the scrapyard! Daft in my book. If it were mine, I would schedule to get it renewed during the next year. If you do decide to go ahead with that, I would also get the auxiliary belt changed at the same time. What sort of feel did you get from the garage that inspected it, and were you able to talk directly with a technician, rather than a service receptionist? Many thanks for the update. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Assuming this engine runs on a belt rather than a chain.

Hello Sharad, We guess you have invested/committed to pay a fair amount of funds into this now 1 year old car, and as such, you should be able to enjoy it, safe in your understanding that whatever goes wrong, the warranty will cover your issue. We really do try to be helpful on here, but my best advice would be:- Bleep - book it into the main dealer and entrust the solution to them. You haven’t paid good money to diagnose issues. Seat bolsters:- Accept the dealer’s offer to replace them, and keep requesting replacements under warranty if those turn out to deteriorate. Hope this is a positive way forward. Kind regards, Gareth.