Magnet

Well let’s put it like this Neil - I think you can forget about the ECU until you have an engine that has adequate compression. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What is the history of this car, and its mode of failure?

Hello Neal, As Cliff says, you can forget about something as ‘simple’ as the head gasket. Head gaskets can blow between a cylinder and a waterway, or even between the cylinders themselves. Would all cylinders blow between each other, or would every cylinder be blowing across to coolant - no chance. My theory:- the chain/belt has jumped, the valves have contacted the pistons and bent the valve stems, resulting in valves being unable to close - hence no compression. Sorry to bring bad news to the door, but it sounds like stripping the head off ( then you will indeed have to change your head gasket). Examine valves and their stems, cams and camshaft, piston crowns, and conrods for potential distortion. If you look at it from the point that if this engine was only running at just over tick over - say 1000 revs. per minute when the belt/chain jumped, you can calculate the number of times the engine would have turned over in just one second - enough to do considerable damage. To be honest Neil, I think the last thing you need to be worried about is diagnosed codes. Surely it just too old to consider it an economical repair. Did you buy it super cheap? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, Does the battery perform its function even though not yet coded? Have you tried an Audi independent? Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Definitely in Park’ - as in Park, but jiggled to ensure it’s securely in??

Did you buy it on EBay from a Halfords site Stephen? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, You will need to try a mild ‘cutting’ polish, and although I haven’t used the polish you mention, it sounds worth a try. It really is a suck it and see exercise, trying the mildest cutting polish first, and only resorting to a more abrasive one if the first one doesn’t work. It might be worth searching out a local recommended car valeting chap - these folks will no doubt have experience to offer/ will be able to sort it for you. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Gavin, Can we take it your Q7 is an automatic? If so - on the basis of simple eliminations - I just wonder if it’s possible to double check if it’s ‘firmly’ in Park. Pardon my ignorance with your particular model, so I’m not really sure that what I’ve just said is actually practical or not - for example, I have a non-Audi which has a rotational drive selector that lowers on switch off, so I can not ensure it fully rotates to Park. Just a thought Gavin. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, In addition to Stevey Y’s advice:- Keep searching EBay - both U.K. and particularly Continent. Pay a visit to Smiths, and make a note of all relevant classic car publications, and place wanted ads in all of those. Register your ‘want’ on on-line breaker links such as Partsfinder (there are more). Long shot, but everything is. Do a Google search for Classic car panels, and you should also come up with specialist panel repairers. Not wanting to frighten you, but for wings, and particularly repairing panels, your wallet is likely to be offended. Good luck with your searches. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for joining Gavin, Regrettably, the original poster appears to have joined the forum, posted his plea for help, and never even returned to view any responses. Good, isn’t it!? You could try sending him a PM in the hope he is still using the same e-mail address, but you could also list full details of your issue, and see what responses we get. Kind regards, Gareth.

So you need the dealership to keep it overnight and test when cold.

Hello Maris, I don’t see why the 5 door would differ from the 3 door. Would I be right in thinking you are looking to buy a secondhand one? Door locks obviously take a hammering, and you could end up with the buying-your-own- faulty-one syndrome. Aren’t there any aftermarket ones about? Kind regards, Gareth.

Just keep at it Omar, and don’t concern yourself about it too much - they have to fix it permanently (in caps). It might be worth leaving them keep it, and you have a courtesy car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed Greg, and welcome to the forum, and your kind comments are very much appreciated - it does mean a lot. Your car really does look to be a fine example. Just keep in touch if you think there is anything else we can help with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Samantha, Welcome, and thanks for joining. Steve’s opening comment that the 1996 looks lovely (and nothing said about your 58 plate) really echoes my reaction too. Apologies for saying it as I think it - and not meaning to be unfriendly, but the 1996 really does look interesting, and the 58 plate, looks like a 58 plate. You tell us the 58 plate needs work, and the 1996 fell below expectations (only?) in terms of its braking ability. The thread heading asks the question …’ have I made a mistake..?’ My response from this point forward will no doubt not be what you want to hear, but here goes:- With a dissatisfaction with the 96’s braking ability, I would have been investing in probably quality brake pads/ calipers perhaps, and whatever was necessary to restore its ability to what it once was. The outlay should be modest. If you are talking about having a new clutch fitted in the 58 ,you are unfortunately talking many hundreds of pounds. EML light on? Do you have your mind set on ‘upgrading’ this 58 car, or do you just want to have a reliable vehicle? Personally, the last thing I would be considering would be ‘upgrades’, and my priority would be to get the car into a reliable condition. Wallet wise? I think your wallet would be much happier treating the 96, rather than trying to fix the 58 - and that would be discounting the price already paid to buy the 58. Probably not what you want to hear Samantha, and I am sorry about the above, but…. All I can add is, if it were mine, I would be hanging on (in caps) to the 96, as an insurance - I would not let it out of my sight until you see how the 58 plate really behaves. Genuinely good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Bob, Strange one that! When you say ‘when the car warms up…’. Could you try a little experiment ( if not already tried). Start the car as normal, but do not attempt to operate the flashers. Do not move the car, but leave it idle until the cabin temperature reaches a sensible level - even though the outside temperature is still low. Once the cabin is reasonably warm, try the flashers, and report back. If they still don’t work, then road test the car and see if they start working at less distance covered, than they did when the car was moved from cold. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Damo, Welcome, many thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. Trying to help, and be proactive, may I step back a bit, and suggest the issue has been complicated by the fact that your car went into ‘a garage’, who probably passed it on to an Audi main dealer because the garage wasn’t equipped to rectify the fault. I can now understand your frustration that one month on, the fault hasn’t been rectified. I have to ask Damo - who is your primary contact here? The ‘garage’, or the Audi dealer? You mention ‘it’s under warranty’ - did you buy it from a main dealer?- if so, one who is now trying to repair it? - or from an independent seller? Is the warranty company giving you support, and progressing the issue. When did you buy it, and is there any finance involved? If there is, then they may be prepared to become involved. Obviously length of ownership, service history, mileage etc. may also influence your case. Perhaps you could come back to us with some more detail Damo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Omar, and sorry to hear of your issue. The Audi dealer’s conclusion that everything is fine, is obviously incorrect, unless every 2022 A3 on the road gives the same noise, and always did from the point when they were new. I guess you can confirm that this noise hasn’t always been present with this car -? If not, the car is trying to tell you something. Recommendation:- Try another dealer, and request a road test with a mechanic before leaving the car with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Omar. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Xenon, Sorry to hear about your issue, and the garage’s difficulty in resolving it. Possibly too simplistic, but I wonder whether the rear end electrical issues are a coincidence, and not actually related to the work done. If it were mine, I would be eliminating the possibility that the issue is due to fractured wires in the flexible harness section twixt the body and the tailgate. This is a favourite place for wires to fracture after many years of opening and closing - particularly in this cold weather. Always worth an eliminating look at. Similar inspection with flexible section leading into the driver door. Perhaps you could let us know how they get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, whoever you are - could you please complete your profile. Bear in mind that this is now a 5 year old thread.

Church village - thanks Anthony.

Hello Samanuel, Did you buy this car after? Kind regards, Gareth.

How did you sort this after Mark?

Hello Phill, Wondered if you have got any further with this yet? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Hanees, Did you get any further with this after?

Thanks Anthony. Where in Cardiff was that? Kind regards, Gareth.