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Hello Byron, Manual or automatic? Are you driving the car ‘enthusiastically’ ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, Personally, I wouldn’t mess about swopping batteries, if only from the point that the Citroen could need recoding once its battery is removed and replaced. I’d work on the principle that the Audi battery had done its time, so it’s an insurance to renew it - as you would do if it were a tyre. As I said, Tayna seem to have some good value Exide. Perhaps you could update us on whether they are still competitive in comparison with others. The new battery will need coding to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club ! Good to have you onboard. Hello Jonathan, On the basis of simple things first, always suspect the battery efficiency in cases such as yours. Is it possible that the battery is the original? If so, you are on borrowed time, even though it might test as marginally efficient. Since you cannot start the car, then the only option would be to remove it and take to your nearest Halfords store and get it checked. If it’s believed to be the original, then personally I wouldn’t even bother - I’d just get a new one. If you do, then always invest wisely and get a good quality battery. Incase it helps, I have recently bought Exide batteries at most reasonable cost from Tayna Batteries via. their EBay listings. They may push you towards their own branded Enduroline, but you will find Exide are cheaper, and in my experience - possibly better. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Thanks for joining and posting your question. Can I ask if the dashboard is actually visibly dirty, or do you just wish to rejuvenate the finish back to near to what it was when new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nigel, Your vehicle appears to be still under warranty, so if it were mine, I would be returning it to your servicing dealer and asking them to sort the issue for you. I would be e-mailing the dealer principal prior to the arranged visit, so that you have a dated record for the future, Incase the issue returns. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, Welcome, and thanks for joining. ‘…..replaced the temp. sensor….’. I would be interested in what brand this replacement was, since there are unreliable replacements about. If it was a main dealer or Bosch part then it would be reasonable to discount this as a continued offender. If an alternative aftermarket brand, then it would be interesting to know, so the new part can be eliminated or not. Of course, trapped air maybe another cause, but I guess they would have thoroughly bled it the second time, if not the first. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on Pete. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lilian, Its been some years since service books were included in the owner’s pack. Service recording is now done via. a computer record complied by the servicing dealer at every service, and becomes available ( on request ) as a service print out - as Joe says. Did you buy the car new? If not, did you check its service history prior to purchase? The easiest way to do this is to wander in to your local main dealer, armed with your registration number and your V5, and ask them if they would kindly provide you with a copy. Doing this in person is likely to be more effective than doing it over the phone or e-mail. Let us know how you get on Lilian. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kayleigh, These vehicle demand a good high efficiency battery, and any modern battery which is allowed to discharge until it is ‘dead’, will seldom be recoverable, and it’s not out of the question that the ‘continuity’ through the battery will remain dead. In effect, you will need to fit a new battery before you can establish whether anything else is wrong. You could try charging the battery over 24 hours, but you will need an ‘intelligent’ charger if your battery is an AGM type - which I guess it is. Personally, I wouldn’t bother. Tayna Batteries ( on EBay) we’re doing good deals on Exide batteries - Incase this helps. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Could you do us a kindness Kayleigh and fully complete your profile.

Hello ykes ( is that your name?). In a nutshell - based on a similar service for other marques, this seems a reasonable (very, even) price. I guess you are able to check around other localish main dealers and independents and check whether it is indeed a reasonable charge or not. You could also check with gearbox specialists. The only thing that confuses, is why you want this done at the low mileage of 38k. No doubt specified in the service schedule-?? Double that mileage has often to taken as the marker. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Check for fractured/broken wires in the flexible harness section twixt body and boot/tailgate. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Gary, There should be an emergency pull in the boot - probably tucked behind the trim near to the back of the flap. The handbook should give you to detail you want. Failure is probably due to a lazy solenoid that operates the flap release. Let us know how you get on Gary. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club ! Good to have you onboard. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Gary, but it does answer one part of the question to good effect. See another recent post re badges. Near Dundee? If you obtain the badges you want, you should be set up to Google - then visit - bodyshops in your area who should be able to assist. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Gary. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Blair, but have you actually tried the regime I suggested? Kind regards, Gareth.m

Thanks again Sarah, I think that’s a very substantial battery, and if you go into Halford’s website, you should be able to put in your registration number and confirm whether it’s the correct one - which I would expect it to be. Does it need coding? Doubtful for that age of vehicle, but I could be wrong. New and Yuasa? Should certainly be serviceable, but I do recall a local mechanic (some years ago) not being too impressed with them, but should be OK now. Would I still get its efficiency checked at Halfords (and the alternator output)? Yes I would, so you can eliminate it as being a culprit. Water damage? Possibly due to plenum chamber drain holes blocked - which I would expect Audi to have cleared. When the ESP light comes on, do you get an ABS light as well? Kind regards, Gareth.

Price please Mark -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello ‘Spinner’, What lights are we talking about here? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Sarah, Sorry, but we didn’t know that. Make of battery as a matter of interest, and was it confirmed as being the correct one for your vehicle? Issues occurred since the battery was changed by any chance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Great Paddy - I did say you wouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve found Aliexpress an etc. to come up with very good copies - in my experience. I bought a set of mud flaps for a non Audi, and all they lacked was the marque on the packaging - the flaps themselves were embossed with the logo, just as the main dealer ones were. Saving ? - about 1/3 of the main dealer price! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sarah, Thanks for joining and sorry to hear of your issue. I always approach any persistent warning light problems and associated issues, on the basis of a simple and cheap elimination process before moving on to more expensive investigations. Culprits for warning lights can be the battery, and its efficiency can be simply and cheaply ( even free!) assessed at your local Halford’s store. Their test is usually pretty comprehensive and results in the battery being declared serviceable or not. At that point, you will then be armed with evidence to exclude the battery efficiency as being a contributor or not. Ask them to check the alternator output at the same time. If the battery is declared sub standard, then personally I would not be tempted to buy a new battery from them at that stage, but come back to us with the result. OK, even if the battery is replaced, it may not solve the issue, and further more expensive diagnostics might be necessary, but an efficient battery is essential for any ‘modern’ vehicle. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nic, Incase it helps:- I favour Febi/Bilstein ( Febi and Blue print in that order) for ‘mechanical’ parts. Mann or Bosch for filters. I certainly avoid ECP’s Crossland. Quantum Longlife 3 for engine oil. I usually search EBay for reliable and competitive sellers - often P in M, but not always. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Are the Gogs tighter than the Cardies? They tell me that if a true Cardie loses a £1 out of his pocket when he is up a ladder, he can catch it before it hits the ground!

Hello Blair, Welcome, and thanks for joining, I must start by admitting TPMS and Stop/start ( in reverse order) are the two ‘fancy bits’ that I definitely prefer to be without! As I see it, we first need something to test the system tests! That would come in the form of a quality tyre pressure gauge - do you have one? If not Halfords do a nice digital one, for less than £10 - was price. I wonder if the clue here is ‘drive 100 miles and it’s OK’ ‘Drive to the shop’ (after it’s been standing for some time?) and it’s not. This might be explained by:- If you drive a 100 mile trip, you will find your tyre pressures will have increased by around 3psi from what they were when cold. The true test ( with apologies if you’ve already done it):- Using your Halfords gauge, and not the one on the machine you are using, set the tyres to their recommended pressures. Make sure this is done only after a short journey when the tyres haven’t warmed up. Ignore any TPMS light that may come on, and use the car for about a week and recheck the tyre pressures with the Halfords gauge after the same to-the-machine journey. Compare those pressure readings with the previously set readings. Any reduction in pressures at any wheel? If so, the TPMS maybe dealing with this as it should. Perhaps you could come back to us with your findings Blair. Thankfully I don’t have TPMS, and have a simple regime of checking the pressures once a month with the same gauge. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club ! Good to have you onboard. Hello Lee, When you say the leaks occur where the pipes connect, is that at a threaded joint? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nic, Welcome from down south. I seldom use ECP for a number of reasons. Yes, GSF seem reasonable, and have been effective with me in terms of ease of pick up. The one I have favoured in the past is Car Parts in Motion. A choice of good branded parts at reasonable prices, and good on delivery schedules. I try to by quality parts at most competitive prices. What sort of parts are you expecting to want to buy Nic? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Hamza, This is confusing, rather than a solution to your issue, since you inform us that the car was getting up to the correct temperature. As such, I cannot see that the thermostat will be the suspect here (unless you didn’t inform us that it took a long time to get to normal operating temperature). Not sure who marked this as a solution, but it may be rather premature if we are to study the evidence to date. Is it possible to unmark! it ? Kind regards, Gareth.