Magnet

What year span aerie you looking at James? Kind regards, Gareth.

Coward! Why not do the maths!? Only joking. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello and welcome Josh. I would want to:- (1) Confirm the disc to hub mating surfaces had been thoroughly ( in caps) de-rusted prior to the discs been fitted. (2) Eliminate the caliper serviceability as a possible cause - might be the primary aggravator if the discs are heating up. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, ‘ECP these days’ - ? There have always been many other motor factors who have regularly undercut ECP’s (once) discounts on so called retail prices - even their sister companies such as Car Parts 4 Less, yet they seem to be first port of call for many. Well worth searching EBay for best prices from reliable suppliers of your choice. Which brand to use? There will understandably be varying opinion on most forums. I have recently been trying Brembo to good effect on a family member’s non-Audi. Suppliers? Many to choose from on EBay, but I have bought a fair amount of parts from Car Parts in Motion, and found their prices to be competitive, and their overall service to be just as you would hope for (no connection, and there are others). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, The simple answer lies with ensuring the outside diameter of the wheel and tyre remains the same as your current 19 inch set up. Obviously to achieve this, the tyre profile will need to decrease as the wheel diameter increases. You can either use on-line ( I think) calculators, or work it out yourself. If your current profile is say 40:- Calculate 40% of the current tyre width, and double it. Then add 19inches converted to mm ( 19 x 2.54). This gives you the overall diameter of the wheel and tyre. Do the same for your proposed 20inch wheel and the fitted tyre size, and compare. Points that probably go without saying:- ride quality will be adversely affected by decreasing the tyre profile. Your insurers will need to be informed if the new set up deviates from an Audi option when new, or is you are fitting ‘aftermarket’ wheels. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Have you had a look in your handbook? That should give you the correct tyre size for your 20 inch wheel option - assuming 20 inch was an option on your model. No doubt, you will also need XL tyres for the Avant. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Battery might need coding to the car - ? Bit of an early model for that perhaps, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, Re. why using Audi to service. To pay this 5K per year vehicle respect, at least the oil should be changed annually, and not every two years - low annual mileage vehicles get a hammering compared with high motorway mileage covered at optimum operating conditions. It would appear that you have the car set on a ‘ Longlife’ schedule where vehicles cover around 12K plus/an, rather than an annual service which is the most appropriate one for your mileage. Back to Cambelts:- if you are not concerned about belt failure within the next 16 years, then I wouldn’t be concerned about water pump failure either. If the WP is driven by the belt with your engine, then WP failure will wreck your engine, since the belt will jump. Don’t worry about the affect of the auxiliary belt failure either - I guess within the next 16 years also, although I would. The last paragraph is interesting -‘ extensive research, advanced technology’. No mention of marketing, who might just come up with ‘ what we lose on changing cambelts will be more more than compensated by total engine failure, resulting in scrappage and another vehicle having to be bought. Quids in with that one chaps! Anyway Pete - great danger of boring again. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete, Still as interesting a topic as when you posted back in April. So, wading through this, your cambelt will not need changing for another 16 or so years, by which time it will be 24 years old, and probably sitting comfortably on top of another car in a scrap yard - if (in caps) the belt lasts that long in this constant stop/start era we find ourselves in. I’m old, and old fashioned, so I think I’ll stick with earlier principles. Of course Pete, it’s your choice with what principle you follow - great, that’s saved me some money, or the peace of mind route. Whatever, you have at least been saved from linking into their free MOT for life deal, so count your lucky stars on that - that has a guaranteed affect of extracting funds from your wallet. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Wondered if you have any particular reason for using main dealers to service an eight year old car. Must be north of £120/hr. + VAT now?

Welcome Harri, Could I ask what your budget is so that responses will be meaningful. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Imran, But not only the cost of ‘repair’ , but whether that rectification is sortable with once-off attention, or will it need similar attention at points ongoing during your future ownership - ? I would certainly not be hanging my hat of concern on cost alone. Quality, and more importantly the lack of it is appreciated long after the price is forgotten. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Imran, Sorry to repeat, but if this were mine, my first port of call would be to nip the car over to a trusted local high end car valeter, and getting their advice. This would stand you in good stead if some monetary inducement was offered for you to think about. No amount of money will ease your ongoing discontent of living with this if it’s not permanently fixable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you had the battery efficiency checked Nu? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Imran, The marks maybe removable, but just be aware that they may reappear. Let’s hope they won’t, but be cautious and you won’t be disappointed. Replacing the affected parts? I very much doubt they will actually do this. Having some money off ? Will you be happy with some money in your pocket, but with marks in the trim? Gamble - can you remove the marks, such that that they don’t reappear? Possible, but you will need reassuring - I guess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, Best bet is to search EBay for a copy of the appropriate Haynes manual. Also worth searching on line Incase you may come up with a diagram. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, My first suspicion would indeed be tyres, and the first thing I would do is to check in the handbook what the correct width and profile should be for the 20 inch wheel option - if 20 inch were an option. I would also check that your tyres are marked XL (extra load) as I think they should be for the Avant. If what you have doesn’t match those in the handbook, then I would be sending a sensibly worded complaint e-mail to the dealer principal, and requesting that a set of correct size for the vehicle is fitted without delay. If the tyres are correct, then I would be calling into a trusted local tyre retailer and asking them to remove the wheels and thoroughly inspect each tyre. Perhaps you can keep us updated James. Kind regards, Gareth.

Beware of anyone bearing high pressure lances, or cleaning chemicals. Is the earlier advice of any use to you Imran? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Many thanks for joining and posting your question. Although that’s a high mileage for any car, it’s not to say the engine won’t continue to give good service - but for another 70k -? You don’t give us much to go on Jason, to be able to advise - petrol or diesel, your anticipated annual mileage, typical journey length, whether you do your own servicing and repairs etc. etc.etc? So answering your question is a bit like like waving a magic wand. Apologies if it goes without saying, but although an engine is a major component, every other moving component on the car will wear/ be worn, so you will need to assess the serviceability of everything else. My suggestion is to have the car ‘health’ checked, or if you are able - fully assess it yourself. Following that, I too would do as Steve suggests. Perhaps you could let us us have the answers to the questions Jason. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tamin, As Steve says, it probably is a faulty driver door lock, but it could be some fractured wiring in the flexible harness twixt door post and door, although probably unlikely on a car the age of yours. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Thanks Imran, To me, this is the classic result of using high concentration chemicals to clean vehicles. If the seller had successfully sorted one area, it’s not clear to me why you didn’t check the other areas - pressure of time perhaps? If it were mine, I, would be asking them to now send you some of the product they used to sort the one area, and the instructions how to use it. If they are not prepared to do that, then take it to a high end valet person in your area, get them to sort it, and agree with the seller that they settle that expense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Imran, How long have you had the car? How long have you had this issue, and have you had the interior valeted, or have you valeted it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Really sorry to hear of your situation Kev. Let’s hope for a sensible outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

How strange Stephen, I’ve always (manually) checked oil levels when cold, and all the circulated oil has had sufficient time to return into the sump. My routine has been before start up after being stationary overnight. I now have this new fangled! no dipstick in a non Audi, and understandably the display will not work until the engine is cold. Why on earth should Audi suggest it check it when warm? - when some oil is still retained in the block and moving parts. Logic suggests that since it is true , then a lower than desired cold reading will be even lower if checked when warm. If this were mine, I would be taking taking the car to another Audi dealer, armed with the photo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, ’I’ve had the brakes checked and apparently they are fine’. By who Steve, and with what equipment? To me, this sounds just like a (severe) brake issue associated with the discs, pads or caliper/s, and I would want to eliminate all of these before getting into the more involved suspected ABS problems. Has any work been carried out on the brakes on this car in recent times? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, Thanks for joining the forum. It’s not that unusual for engines to burn oil within the first few thousand miles, and then the consumption falls off as the components bed in. Time of course will confirm or refute this. I this were mine, I would ensure any added oil is only bought from an Audi dealer, and the receipts retained. I would also keep a log of the date and mileage when the oil was added. This will be important evidence in the event of any subsequent dissatisfaction. Perhaps you would keep us updated. Kind regards, Gareth.