Magnet

Um, 1/2Kg = just over 1lb in old English. I would be tempted to leave my pullover in the draw rather than on the back seat, and keep the engine cover where it belongs. You are not having us on- are you Granola?

Keeping it simple Bri, it sounds as if the battery has done its time. It’s voltage under load is the important parameter. Note - down to less than 10v at cranking. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds good Wayne. VAT registered and using Audi approved parts? Both questions maybe valid, only because it’s on a VAG lease and service plan. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. How long is left on the lease, and what would be your anticipated mileage over that time? You could find you might get away with the existing pads.

Hello Granola, ‘….pointless piece of extra weight’. If you are talking the moulded plastic cover, then removing it is likely to reduce the overall weight by about the same as not carrying half a cup of coffee in the cup holder. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karim, Could be an engine mounting, but I’m sure you will understand that can only be a guess. I would suggest you get the car on a ramp and get it thoroughly inspected, to source the wear that’s causing the knock. Kind regards, Gareth.

Ok, but it really doesn’t matter if anyone else has the same issue - you have - and these issues need sorting. Again, I don’t understand the logic that you are expected to be able to diagnose or have any experience of others who might have had similar issues. By what you say, the sellers seems to have been accommodating with sorting out other issues over your many months of ownership, so it’s difficult to understand why they might be less so with sorting out your current discontents.

Forget most of what I suggested since ‘just bought’ is obviously in excess of 30 days. Shame you hadn’t mentioned that Gary - it would have saved me giving you inappropriate advice. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really??

Hello Kim, Apologies for the defeatist view, but I wouldn’t want to take any chances on trying to fit roof bars to any vehicle that they weren’t specifically designed to fit. The money saving It’s just not worth the danger to other other road holders- sorry. Kind regards, Gareth.

Back now Gary, My stab on it is this, based on if it we me:- I would inform the seller (local to you?) by E-mail - of your suspected discontents with the car. I would certainly be getting a probably- have-to-pay -for inspection by an experienced local independent, and obtaining a written report for forwarding with your claim/potential rejection of the car. Yes, I would take comfort from the fact that I had a warranty, but the practicality of using it due to distances involved may not be straightforward, and it may have caveats in relation to wear and tear. All this is admittedly pessimistic, but I wouldn’t expect a cared for car of that age to be presenting the noises you describe. I would also be wary of attempts to repair taking the vehicle rejection beyond the 30? day legal entitlement. All in all, I would be going forward in a well researched manner, and not assuming that the warranty is all you need to have behind you. Warranties don’t come with a warranty against hassle! Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Gary. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, I’ve got to go out now, but will respond later. Meanwhile, I would suggest you don’t put any spanners on anything, but spend a bit of search time locating a trusted local Audi independent. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Audrey, Welcome, and many thanks for joining. Since it does not turn over, it has to be something that allows the starter motor to operate. Is it an auto or manual? If auto it could be associated with the P ( Park) isolator that prevents the starter being operated if not in Park. If manual - possibly the switch on the clutch pedal. Also worth searching the threads on here about adding an additional engine earth?? or something similar. Also worth checking all electrical connections feeding the starter - also the relay in that circuit. If it were mine, I think I would be investing in an hour’s time of your trusted local auto electrician. All above assumes both starter motor and battery are serviceable. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Found anything more Michael?

Hello Michael, I would be moving forward with extreme caution on any vehicle that has such a short previous ownership. The vehicle might have been rejected under a 30 day purchase. A paid for vehicle check would be a must, unless you have access to a contact from the previous short term owner. Co-incidentally, I came across a similar situation with a non-Audi I eventually bought just over a year ago. It has one owner until about 2 months before my intended purchase - alarm bells! I managed to get the last owner details from the seller, and was able to talk with that owner at the eleventh hour. He revealed it was his late father’s car from new, and he wanted to retain his personalised number, so had no option other than to register the car in his name. A paid for vehicle check should reveal details of personalised number transfer dates etc., so I’m very much with Stephen on his essential recommendations. If you work on the principle that a seller will tell you anything you want to hear - you won’t go far wrong. Is this 8 month old car being sold by a main dealer or not? Kind regards, Gareth.

Maybe a really small amount ( or nothing at all) at an annual service Lance. How much are you needing to add, and over what mileage/time? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steven, To avoid duplication of suggestions, where have you already tried without success? Kind regards, Gareth.

Where online have you looked Alex? Have you also tried registering your ‘want’ with the online breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are more? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vic, Wondered if you bought the A5 you had paid a deposit on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andrew, With the prices of used vehicles still rising - albeit at a slower rate - I thing you might find that the ancient art of negotiating on price is indeed getting ancient and redundant! You might be lucky, but….. Of course, the old question of ‘what is the price for cash?’ is likely to be responded to buy a price increase, as they lose there finance commission. I would always suggest not buying the ‘best deal’ , but buying the best vehicle. Kind regards, Gareth

Let’s hope Simon doesn’t get into trouble, since he hasn’t seen either of the two constructive and helpful replies.

Thanks Andrew, Just to clarify, my EBay suggestion was in relation to the sale of your A3, rather than the purchase of an A1. Disadvantages of buying off EBay or any fairly remote-from-home location:- Have to travel to view. Potential impracticality of having any guarantee work carried out. Obviously, buying locally is the ideal, but you might have to wait for the right car to become available. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Thanks for joining and posting for advice. Very much a personal view:- You’ve owned the car for 15 years, so it now doesn’t owe you anything more than its scrap value. You are of course absolutely bright in your view that it’s worth far more in its broken down form, but you have to break it and then attempt to sell the individual parts to realise that increase in value. Worth the effort?? WBAC are unlikely to value it at anything more than it’s weight in scrap, so you have a choice of:- Listing it on EBay where it would have the widest audience, sell it to WBAC or it’s scrap value - whichever is highest - break it yourself and sell the bits, or hope someone on here would pay you more than all other options. There would be a school of thought that would suggest, you’ve had your 15 years of service from it, so just let it go to the best EBay bid, and move on to secure the best deal on the best car to replace it. I.e. minimum hassle route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, As well as posting on here, I would suggest you register your ‘want’ on the on-line car breaker websites such as Partsfinder ( there are more) and search EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gideon, When you say an aftermarket clutch kit isn’t available, have you tried to find out what elements of the 4 pieces aren’t available - flywheel, clutch driver plate, pressure plate, release bearing/ slave cylinder? If not, it would be worth contacting LUK technical and enquiring there. Some of the parts may indeed be available as individual components. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sarah, Really sorry to hear of your unacceptable experiences. The ‘needs a service’ condition is as old as the hills. The car must be serviced ( of course at your cost) otherwise the remaining warranty will be adversely affected - a catch 22 situation. You would need to check whether it does, and provide evidence that it’s been correctly serviced since you bought it. The good news should be that any fault reported before the end of the 3 year warranty, will be covered outside warranty. Understandably you won’t have any confidence in the car, and the bottom line could be you trade it in. If you decide to do that, you may find the depreciation may not be as much as you would have anticipated. The bad news is the potential next purchase will be more expensive than anticipated. I’m sorry I can’t offer you anything other than sympathy, but what I would suggest is that you record on one sheet, the timeline of faults and the action taken by the dealer. This should aid your case - without it, it will dilute the case. Kind regards, Gareth.