Magnet

Hello Cliff, Both cables were individually adjusted as I recall. Only the n/s one started to stick on mine, but I decided to renew both at the same time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Josh. Can you remove its partner - if believed it’s the same? You can then measure it up. and I’d try EBay sellers for a similar high tension replacement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daryl, Lifting carpet? Really sorry, but it was a number of years go. Did I do it by removing the centre section?? Any particular reason why ECP ( particularly since they don’t seem to be offering their discounts on so called retail pricesat the moment)? Possibly convenient for you? Apologies if it sounds like I am promoting these, but have you tried Parts in Motion - repeat no connection except having used them a number of times. They are usually very competitive on Febi parts. Good luck with the job. Kind regards, Gareth.

You are very welcome Daryl. I bought new tubes since the belief was that you get differential corrosion within them, and at the point where they fit into the bodywork. In my case, it turned out they weren’t needed, but… To try to get this in focus, it the handbrake release is not free from sticking, then the issue can only be associated with the calliper ( which I think you have eliminated), or the handbrake cable. I knew my cable was not as good as it should be, since it started sticking on in freezing conditions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marcus, I need to apologise to you for the giving you the wrong impression of my intents with the information I sought, to be better placed to give you some possible explanation of why this belt appears to have suffered from premature failure. I might be alone in the belief that to offer advice we need to be in possession of as much of background information as the poster can supply, - well that is my stance on any situation where a poster requires a reasonable explanation. Curiosity does not come into the equation. Obviously, it is now clear that presenting those facts is not something you want to do, and we have to respect your decision on that. Not that it matters, but we - or at least I- have never come across this reluctance before on this forum. I must also apologise to you for my reference to dogs and vets. In no way was this reference meant as a reference to you as a dog, but simply that vets have to try to diagnose animals without the full background of the patients ailments or history of symptoms. This is where the analogy simply started and finished - in a light hearted principle I thought. I’m sorry you feel this contact with the forum has to cease at this point, and I do genuinely wish you well with whatever course of action you decide to take. From my side, politeness has always been a key word that I attempt to follow with my responses on here, and I’m really sorry to hear that you feel I have not lived up to that principle on this occasion. Please don’t be a stranger to the forum in the future based on my response. There are quite a few others on here who give their time to be as helpful as they can possibly be to any owners that might benefit from their advice. Take care Marcus. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. re. the reference to ‘I keep thinking about it’ - hope that is about the issue with the car, and not any discontents with me.

Hello Daryl, I think you’ve already found the issue points - the aluminium tubes that the cables run through before going on to the underside. Yes, WD40 helps, but does not cure. Cure for me was new cables and new tubes. I’m pretty sure the tubes are/ or at least were, main dealer only, and they are not a matching pair, so I would advise double checking you choose the right one of the pair to go in the right side. Getting the old ones out can be a bit of fun as I recall, but it was a few years ago when I did mine. Incase it helps, I used Febi branded cables. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Marcus, No, I’m certainly not asking about the car’s service history out of curiosity, but simply to gather as many facts as possible to be best placed to advise you. Unfortunately, we are now into Post no.8 and you are still not able to provide sufficient facts for us to try to come up with a reason, but OK, that’s how it is….. You suggest Coventry Audi should have picked that up, but you don’t tell us when they last serviced it. You tell us it’s been previously serviced by ‘multiple dealerships’ but don’t tell us at what mileages or when. OK, to some ( and this might include yourself) it’s simply important to be told ‘yes, it’s got full service history’, at the point of purchase, and it’s of little or no importance to be bothered with any of the detail, and sometimes not even be bothered to have any evidence that that statement is indeed fact. Back to your belt issue:- it sounds to have failed prematurely ( if the recorded mileage is correct). We don’t know if the service history records any prior mention to this issue. The leaking water pump - and probably associated bearing issues- may have led to this premature wear. Fact:- it needs sorting. Who does it? Entirely down to you Marcus. You tell us the main dealer charge might be outside your budget, so I suggest a couple of alternatives, and you come back and ask me what I would do! So I repeat. To box it up:- You decide whether you prefer to pay the Audi dealership ( who you think should have picked it up earlier) You seek an alternative quote from an independent. Ditto from a trusted local garage. Perhaps you could let us know what you decide Marcus. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It’s a little confusing when you complain that you paid a premium for the car because it had full service history, yet you are not familiar with much/ any of that servicing detail. Apologies if all of this seems harsh, but we are trying to offer best advice here, and the actual evidence is painfully slow in coming through. I feel a bit like the vet, when the dog isn’t explaining any of the background it it’s problem!

Thanks Marcus, When you say this 5 year old car 32k mile car has been serviced with multiple Audi dealerships, how many services has it actually had (take it it must have been on an annual mileage schedule)? Take it you have a printed copy. Have these services been carried out at dealerships spread over various parts? - possibly suggesting a number of owners. Does your warranty cover this anticipated work? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Whatever the scrap man will pay you to take it away, or whatever someone would bid for it against an EBay listing - which might be higher. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marcus, Seems very strange that this belt should be worn on a 5 year old 32k mile car. Have you had this car from new, or if not do you know/ has sight of its service history? What would I suggest? Already suggested Marcus. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marcus, What is the total mileage on the car? Are you still seriously considering getting this done at the Audi dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Elaine, Petrol or diesel? 10k miles in 3 and a half years is extremely low mileage, and is likely to give rise to such issues due to its lack of a ‘good run’ . Before spending out, I would put in a few gallons of non-supermarket fuel, and get a family member/friendly neighbour to give it a good ‘ Italian tune’ - which means driving it at higher than normal revs on a good distance run - making the car work for its living! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Liz, Um, hybrids and dynamotors as I knew them. Likely to be a different and expensive job, but certainly try for aftermarket availability. Alternative:- we have a long established automotive repairer of alternators and starter motors. Worth Googling for similar in your area. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marcus, Looks like the auxiliary belt, and it seems that’s it’s done more than it’s service life! Your trusted local garage should be able to renew this, much cheaper than an Audi dealer. Fitting a new belt tensioner at the same time sounds advisable. Belts manufactured by Gates is about as good as you can get. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Liz, Thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your issue. Pending other responses, some of the following may help:- USA legislation appears to have far more clout with calling car manufacturers to account than it ever did, or will in the U.K. ’Has anyone else had a similar problem?’ To a large extent, that’s irrelevant, since the hard truth is that any combined ‘evidence attack’ at Audi is realistically unlikely to be effective. Your situation needs sorting, and to me, the Audi quote is not surprising, but there are alternative avenues where this can be fixed much ( in caps) cheaper. Comparison:- family member needs a new alternator on their A4. Audi part cost = £1,300. Aftermarket Bosch part = c£300. No brainier as they say. Local garage will fit Bosch alternator, resulting in an a substantial saving over Audi’s daft charge. Why not go down that route Liz? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. we can point you to suppliers if that helps. Starter motor alternator? These are two different components.

Hello Romany, It sounds like the issue is associated with an inadequate electrical contact at some point - we will take it the battery has been tested and found to be good, and the replacement starter is a reputable brand. Could possibly be a relay issue, but these possibilities would need to be eliminated via. testing. If you have the facilities and experience then that’s fine. If not, then it sounds like the best way forward is to invest in an hour’s time with a trusted auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Incase it saves forum members having to click on the link, the cost of this wheel which needs refurbishing is £169.99. The seller, who appears to be a commercial refurbisher, will refurbish it for you at extra cost. Not sure if such free commercial advertising is acceptable - perhaps Admin. would advise.

Hello Nick, I follow the theory, but there are certainly non-Audi with rubber valves which have a sensor screwed on the inside. Perhaps metal cored, but not inflexible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Sounds like you just continue to maintain it as you have been doing. I would change oil and filter at 6 month intervals, and the air and fuel filters every two years. What schedule have you had for transmission fluid changes? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Jonathan, To try to keep it as brief as possible:- If the ball joint isn’t available as a separate part, then replacing the complete upper wishbone on the offending o/s is the way forward. Need to replace both ‘for safety reasons’ ? Don’t agree that this would be necessary. Not sure who your on-line respected supplier is, or more importantly what aftermarket brand you have been looking at, but I have used Febi for such components, and have used Car Parts in Motion as a competitively priced supplier. Lemforder would be an alternative, and likely more expensive brand, and may have been the OE supplier to VAG for such components. Summary:- buy and get fitted (at a trusted local garage) the off side upper wishbone. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nick. That sounds interesting. Does Audi confirm that? Perhaps you could let us know. Still something of a coincidence then. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daniel, Thanks for joining. The vehicle is obviously still under warranty, and I would have thought it unusual for it to be consuming oil some year on. If this were mine, I would definitely not consider buying oil from anywhere other than an Audi dealer - and keeping your receipts. If you do find yourself having to have this investigated under warranty, the use of any other oil would simply dilute your case. Yes, I appreciate that the correct specification oil will be acceptable, personally, I just wouldn’t go there as a consideration. How much oil is it consuming, as a matter of interest? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Probably too simplistic a response, but since your issue started (18 months ago) when you had new tyres fitted, it would suggest it has something to do with the fitment/non fitment of the sensors on the valves. Were these changed at the same time, or did they simply reuse the old valves? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Thanks for joining. Your cambelt enquiry touches on a fairly regular query - particularly in respect of low annual mileage vehicles, although others have questioned the need to renew the belt at such a low mileage. My reply to that is that low annual mileages are normally covered via. short journeys which results in more stop starts that would be encountered on high mileage motorway use. The upshot is that the belt gets far more of a hammering in the 5 years. I appreciate that you question relates to the need to renew the water pump at the same time, and my personal view would be:- If you are getting the whole job done at Audi then I would say it’s reasonable to retain your current water pump, if your anticipated annual mileage is going to be what you are doing now. If you are going to get this done away from Audi, using quality aftermarket parts, then I would certainly not use an aftermarket pump, in preference to not renewing yours. Summary:- I don’t think you are putting yourself at too much risk by not replacing the pump. If not retaining the £300 in the bank isn’t of too much concern, and spending it on renewing the pump at Audi gives you peace of mind, then that’s great too. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, Thanks for joining. Apologies, but it’s rather difficult to fully understand the exact set up without inspection/ part drawing, so advice will be restricted to those who have been-there-done-that. Could you let us know who has informed you that the ball joint isn’t (any longer?) available as a separate part? We might be able to suggest other avenues once we know where you have tried. Kind regards, Gareth.